Monday, 30 May 2011

High lights Blonde hair

Regular postings of fresh new topic's

I have chosen this topic because I'm sure that so many have either had experience of it or thought on it as a subject. keeping on top of those roots that regrowth issue. That cycle of the more you colour the more you need to the eventual out come over processing.

Firstly Lets look a Highlights. Originally a form of colour that should work in conjunction with ones natural base shade . As we know over time and because of a love for that Blonde Highlight look. If the process is over done then roots on a regular bases can become an issue. The art is the balance between natural level and desired colour and tone. I would always suggest when doing highlights to try and keep a natural look one should always ask for a balance of high lights and low lights. ie. more than one tone maybe three shade plus natural bases shade.

Sometime when highlights are done on a regular bases or over lapped the look starts to become more solid. If this is the case talk with you stylist start to introduce low lights to regain a balance.
The art is also the sections we take. The weave we make how and where we apply the product. We have to only apply the colour and the formulation where it's needed. our choice of sectioning is key to getting as close to the roots as possible.We should never forget we are working on a curved surface and have to section accordingly for the best possible results.
This situation sadly arises when a stylist does not advise on over doing or over processing. The nightmare can start when the advise given is. Oh you have so much colour now. Why don't we just do all over colour!
So many things to consider take into account. So lets take a look at our options.

Firstly when going from Highlights to all over we are going from a weave to solid. So on first application one has to consider. Not just root application, but also the previous re growth so not to have banding issues.not to over lap and to try and mix colours and shades that work and blend in.

Then there is the issue of lifting the roots and them being lifted to much or not enough. either to yellow or to bright then having to tone.

Colour balancing shade and tone. Not just the newly lifted roots. but all of the hair root to tip not easy.
If going to all over colour you will get a solid root starting to show within three weeks. Normally it will need attention every six weeks.

I know some one who just went through this process from Highlights to all over sadly as soon as it was done she hated it .
The stylist Tried to put low lights in these went copper orange, a night mare. How could this happen?
Well when putting low lights back into lifted hair one should use a Demi formulation colour pigment deposit only! Not a permanent formulation with peroxide in it. Lift is not required.
The reason the low lights went orange in the above case was using a permanent formulation on already lifted hair . Not considering the fact that the hair is lacking pigment no lift. The requirement here was natural or neutral shades to be reintroduced. As you can see it is possible to put a mixture of formulations into the hair to get both lift and deposit Blonde with shade and tone.
So unless you feel really comfortable with your stylist both the advise given and skill level be very careful before switching from a highlight technique to all over colour.

Lift. Deposit. Pigment. Shade and tone

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic's
Following on from a week of postings on.
The colour wheel .
The law of color as it relates to hair colouring.
The Ph scale and the chemistry of hair.
It's now time to look developers lift tone deposit.

How they work:
permanent cream colour 20 vol
The dyes lift the hair natural pigment and deposit a new artificial colour at the same time. Working in conjunction with our chosen developer as the lifting process starts. We lighten the hair thus exposing natural lightened pigment as our chosen developer or hydrogen peroxide lifts the hair lighter, so more pigment is exposed this pigment becomes part of our colour equation.
The Colour it self an oxidative dye pigment remains inert until mixed with hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide is made up of two atoms of oxygen and two of hydrogen H/2O/2 available in both cream and liquid form, In most professional salon found as a cream. Hydrogen peroxide is measured by % hairdressing professional refer to it as being measured in volume.[this relates to the volume of gas being released in the chemical reaction]
With all hair colouring the key to success is Formulation, application and timing.choosing the incorrect shade can cause issues as can using the wrong strength of developer. Its a fine balance.
The different strengths and uses are as follows:                  
Demi lotion
*5 Vol less no lift only works with the artificial pigment molecules.
*10vol [ 3%]
*Will only expose the pigment at the given level. zero lift from level to another.
* suitable for tone on tone or darker.
* can be used fro toner deposit on pre- lightened hair. i would consider using a demi application in this instance.
*Covering some examples of Grey hair.
*pre-softening  resistant hair.
*Refreshing a tint, again i would consider a demi application for deposit only.

20vol [6%]
*All regular root applications [virgin hair application]
* Will produce one level of lift. That being for example lifting through level 6 exposing pigment expected at a level 7 [ see colour wheel]

* 2 to3 levels of lift . That being for example lifting 6 to level 8 exposing pigment at that level.If confused about three level 6 to 8 consider it has to lift through the pigment at level 6 before exposing the pigment and a level 7 and finally through level 8. see chart below count off level 6 to 8?
40vol [12%]
3 to 4 levels of lift,the same rule applies as above.  expecting anything other than a high level lift formulation will not achieve lift from a level 6 to10. amount of lift and pigment exposed will always be an issue in this instance. think 6 to 9!
In some cases a high lift blonde formulation can achieve desired lift this is due to the following.
* For high lift blonde formulation. The mixing ratio normally increase the ratio of hydrogen peroxide in the formulation to 1 part colour to 2 parts developer always check the product you use for directions. they can also in some cases have other chemical properties added to aid in the lift and deposit needed to reach target colour.
*High lift blonde shades. Normally have a more concentrated amount of pigment to work with the pigment exposed in the lifting process depending on choice of shade. They also have a longer process time due to level of peroxide being used to attain this degree of lift.
It is always worth considering lift required and in some cases a bleach lightener / decolourizer may be required to attain desired degree of lift.

So as an example lets look on the chart at undertone orange {orange as we know is made up of red and yellow} So to bring balance to a natural level 7 we would add a corrective Blue Tone! cool ha.
Hydrogen peroxide will only release the oxygen molecule required when in an alkaline state this is why oxidative dye products require the presence of ammonia or some other alkaline some derived  from a natural sauce. [making them herbal]. This returns the hydrogen peroxide to its natural alkaline state and allows it to release oxygen freely.  The ammonia also acts as the engine drawing the colour under the opened cuticle helping it penetrate the cortex where it becomes fully developed.
So to simplify
The artificial colour molecule is drawn into the hair under the partially opened cuticle. the cuticle having been lifted by the ammonia that is now drawing the colour molecule into the cortex.
The Hydrogen peroxide in the formulation is lightening the hairs natural melanin whilst at the same time the oxygen released is swelling the artificial pigment within the cortex and hair shaft trapping it deep inside the hairs structure.
True colours
This would be degrees of Brown or our N series these are designed to have enough artificial pigment to control the pigment exposed at any given level. working with a max of 20vol [6%] higher levels will require consideration of desired target. warm or cool or do you want to neutralise or utilise the pigment exposed at any given level.
We did say this was quite a big topic, it would be a long journey.  
problems that can arise from permanent colour normally due to over processing. Damage to the cuticle it becomes raised cannot retain colouur [P/h issue].
Lack of moisture due to heat styling/exposure to the sun and element such as chlorine .wrong formulation, excessive colouring,
Lack of Grey coverage is normally a formulation and timing issue. poor assessment in the consultation process of amount of Grey so amount of N series required in formulation.
wrong choice of developer, correct development time. wash of to soon dye molecules that have not had time to develope and bond are washed away.   
Hair that is resistant to colour closed cuticle very resistant Grey hair. Pre-soften  with a formulation using either Demi lotion or 10 vol with natural level N series. leave for 20 minutes wash off with cold water, before apply target formulation.
low vol developer ideal for colour balancing
The advantages of permanent colour.
*Can permanently change hair colour.
*will lighten hair deposit colour or tone colour simultaneously.
*100% of Grey or white hair with correct formulation
*soften or pre pigment hair,can add texture due to a more open cuticle.
Finally in closing this section in the consultation process it should be explained to clients their expected commitment when choosing permanent colour. My advise would always be chose the path with the least chemistry as possible to start with.
 *Roots will need re touching between 4 to 6weeks,
* colour can fade on damaged or over processed hair. colour balancing is key to colour pigment retention.
*Danger of allergic reaction Always do a skin test. prior to any chemical service.
Colour balancing is required to refresh colour that is being re touched, The formulation on the root or re growth will be different to that required for the previously coloured mid lengths and ends both in choice of shade and developed used. 0 lift on pre coloured area!

Take a break digest remember it's a lot to take in digest understand.
Herbal or Organic Colour
These have a arrived in recent years with a fan fair of hype marketed as being. Ammonia free, all natural,conditioning.  bla bla bla!  sorry only my opinion but as we have discussed an alkaline has to be present for the colour process to work. So yes you have to consider the level of ammonia in the product you chose or an alternative.

Hair colour still needs driver an engine in most organic or herbal colours the ammonia is replaced with either denatured alcohol. In some cases detergent derived products,they all serve to act as an alkaline.
Denatured alcohol is derived from grain fermentation this process produces alcohol and indeed bio fuel. this acts as the replacement for ammonia but because it's derived from grain it's classed as being Herbal natural. it's your choice as to the organic route or not the process of lift and depsoit is the same as for permanent colour.

We are now flooded with adds marketing on so many Ammonia free products without any hint of the re placement chemistry or what it does!  So why don't we question why do we trust!
This revolution is now already in many of the home colour kits that promote quick fix Ammonia free colour! is this really professional?

The question i ask is simple is it really a new innovation? is it really any less harmful than Ammonia?
Thoughts on new MEA as engine to drive colour instead of Ammonia? MEA is derived from Ethanolamine !  also Denatured Alcohol used as ammonia substitute why does Ammonia get such a bad wrap just because it smells ? .

some useful facts:
Monoethanolamine and Ammonia Fact Sheet

1. Monoethanolamine (MEA) is a stable alkaline liquid.

2. Ammonia is a gas.

3. MEA has a larger molecule than ammonia, which means it is less volatile.

4. MEA does not give off gas when used in hair colour.

5. Ammonia gas is given off when used in hair colour.
6. Ammonia in small doses does not present a health risk.

7. Prolonged exposure of ammonia does present a health risk.

8. Many colours, including Matrix, use ammonia and monoethanolamine.

9. The argument that MEA has not been used long enough to be judged “safe” is completely
untrue, it has been used for at least 30 years in hair colour.

10. There is no proof that ammonia washes off the hair and that MEA does not.

11.Organic colour uses oleic acid in the formulation specifically to neutralise MEA, so even if the
colour was not washed off correctly, the MEA has been neutralised and would have no adverse
effect on the hair.

Understanding Ph and it relationship to hair chemistry

                                                         Regular postings of fresh new topic's.

Having posted the topic on. The Colour Wheel and the law of Colour I think that we also need to cover the important role that understanding Ph chart and the role that it plays in the hair colouring process and indeed the chemistry of all chemical services performed on the hair.
review of  aPh balance chart.
A little help with Ph balance chart:
When we do any chemical service on the hair be it. Colour. Perming. Relaxing. We have to create an environment that enables us to get below the surface layer the cuticle layer of the hair ,
This is the outer layer that serves to protect the inner structure from both damage and moisture loss,
the inner layer being the cortex and Medulla.
Once we have decide on the service we are going to perform in this case colour. The formulation we choose will dictate the amount of deposit the more we open the cuticle the deeper the deposit.
So understanding Ph, lift, deposit, are key to being able to perform outstanding colour services.

Three layers of the hair structure.

Healthy hair should have a Ph of 5 to 5.5  when we introduce an alkaline be it Ammonia which comes in many different strengths the stronger the more it will open the cuticle. The same can be said for other colour drivers MEA, Dealcoholised grain products. All serve the same purpose to manipulate the Ph of the hair to create an environment for performing any chemical service. The stronger the product the more the cuticle will be opened and the more damage can be done.
It is essential after a process to re balance the hair and close the cuticle and restore that natural balance of 5.5.
This can be done with a chemical balancing product these normally have a Ph of 2.5 when introduced to the hair it will close the cuticle and restore the ph balance of the hair to 5.5.
Always be aware to consider the hair condition and assess during consultation before deciding on any chemical service knowing and understanding the Ph of hair is key to keeping it healthy and allowing colour retention or retaining moisture after the perming process.
Part of the consultation process should address the condition, porosity, moisture level. issues of fading. colour retention. These are all things effected by the hair's Ph level being at a correct level.
It is also during this consultation process to not only assess the hair both by touch and visual inspection. but through communication getting a fully in depth history of past products used and indeed products being used at this time.
With so many products that manipulate our Ph mantle opening the cuticle to deposit anything from stains to silicone based products that over time will build up in the hair, note they can cause issues when trying to get even deposit in the colouring process.
This is why it is essential that as stylist's we have a good all round knowledge of products and how they work on the hair during any chemical process. 
In closing it was brought to my attention by someone who sent me a question via a hair site about Ph saying that they could not find any information on the subject, I thought this very odd but having looked through the NVQ the offcial guide [Hairdressing foundation] I have to say  i find it very odd that this topic is not covered in some depth.
 If you want information on topic's to ask question go ahead use the section on the Blog.
I hope this is found useful MikeB2MR

Natural hair colour pigment and lift. The Colour wheel

Regular postings of fresh new topic's.

As a stylist do you  understand the 'Law of Color' ?  As they relate to hair colouring?Yes Laws? Oh your one of those hands on stylist who are fortunate enough to know everything. who don't need to know or understand the law's of colour. Your a free spirited artist!  Your just someone with a huge Ego who muddles along getting bye with hit and miss colouring mishaps! A stylist who when things go wrong blames the product! How and why understanding and indeed trusting the colour wheel is so important to succeed.
Hair color is an art.  The natural laws as they relate to hair colour  apply to everybody everywhere. They work off of a Natural scale of hair depth and tone one to ten. The  higher the number lighter the shade or level. Laws are simple they are  beyond one’s control they never require a second guess or questioning. Never the less we still insist on the odd experiment to verify them. When you come to accept the law of  colour cannot be broken then you learn to trust it, you always know the outcome. The laws of hair color are important and often very neglected. It’s imperative that all professional hair stylists know why we do what we do. Why do you choose the color you do to use on your client?
When you as a stylist take the time to learn the universal laws of hair color. You will be better equipped to work with and advise your client on the best course of action and an ideal formulation for them.

What is color?

Color is light and pigment. When we color someone’s hair with the right choice of colour, we can emphasize their skin tone and eye color. When we understand these laws and trust them we can grow and improve. understanding is one thing trust is much more! We will never have to guess the outcome of our  results will always feel in control confident and professional.

Essentials of Color
There are three essential traits of color.  Working from a natural level. The any given natural level will always have a hue: a leaning towards one of the primary colours found in the hair example. red, yellow, blue. The percentage of the hue is called saturation. Gold or copper is a good example of a low percentage (saturation) of red. Tone is the lightness or darkness of a color. For example, Copper is a tone of Red with a percentage of Yellow and indeed in some case a tinge of Blue. Balance always
The Color Wheel

There are three primary colors: Blue, Red, Yellow.
They are called primary because all other colors are made from them. 
The secondary colors:
 Blue + Red = Violet, Red + Yellow = Orange,  and Yellow + Blue = Green
Tertiary colors are made by mixing the primary and secondary colors together. There are six possible combination's. They are yellow-orange, red-orange, red-violet, blue-violet, blue-green, and yellow-green.
Two colors are called complimentary colors if when mixed together they produce a neutral color.  They are located opposite from each other on the color wheel. When you mix any color with their complimentary color:
You will produce a neutral or browned-out color. sometimes Mud is created.
A colorist should not only always consult and understand the color wheel.
It is a tool that will be used almost every time you color a client’s hair. It will help you create colors with a better understanding of utilising and neutralising pigment and tone.  contrasting colors are placed directly across from their opposite.  This is very important since it is necessary to know which colors can be used to “neutralise” or “brown-out” undesired tones.
A good example of this and indeed a common issue for stylists is neutralising unwanted orange and yellow tones in the hair. When you know and understand the color wheel and can see that violet is the opposite of yellow on the color wheel, you can then choose a violet pigment in order to neutralize the yellow.  Violet being a even mix of red and blue. these will restore balance to unwanted yellow  creating a natural tone. If the unwanted color is orange, you can see that blue is the color to use to neutralize the unwanted tone. Orange being made up or Yellow and Red so blue is required to restore balance.See it;s easy common sense and understanding.

The color wheel is also separated into warm and cool colors. Blue (one of our three primary colors) is the coolest cool color and is also the darkest. It generally lives at a level three, masking out both gold and warm red tones or Hue!  The more blue that is added to your hair color the more it will produce a darker, cooler tone. Red or yellow (our other primary colours) are warm colors. Adding red to your hair color formula will create a warmer tone. Just as blue is the darkest cool toned color, yellow is the lightest warm toned color. Adding yellow to your color formula will always produce a lighter, brighter color. depending on the level you are working at Yellow normally comes out to play between the natural level 7 to 10 any level darker than this the yellow will be over powered by either the Red or Blue Pigment.
This is such a huge topic that one can expand on when introducing the effects of lift from chosen formulation and level strength of hydrogen peroxide or developer. These lifting agents will expose pigment as they lift the hair in the colour process adding warmth from the hair to your formulation.
So again understanding the colour wheel really is key.
Good luck Mike B2MR

Summer time. Highlights Blonde hair colours

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic's

                            Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience 

As the art of hair colouring is a passion to me having both the technical and practical skills is key to be successful.

I would like to try and cover some point with relation to foil high lighting.

In many salons i visit i get to meet some very talent stylist and colour technicians. i like to watch techniques and see what is the chosen product many use foils some use easy mesh i use a waxed paper that does not need to be folded and will not allow bleeding due to colour expansion, a thing that can happen with foil; especially if to much product applied and or if heat is introduced,

The biggest thing observed with highlight is the neatness of sections the folding of the foils the care taken. The patients of many really good colourist is to be admired.

However there are always the slack untidy get them in get them out jobs to!

My question is on sectioning. It's hard topic to write about I wish there was away to draw on screen the way sectioning should work. I will try here goes.

I have in past blogs articles made reference to not being able to cut  a straight line on a curved surface the same is so of highlighting sections!

when we work up the side of the head in nice neat sections we are working on a curve! so it follows if we pull the foil in tight to the section  the middle will be right into the root leaving distance from root at either end! if we pull one end in the other will move out ! its the curve.

The same can be said for working a T section if we start at the hair line and work toward the crown we are working on another curve so the same applies. as we pull the foil in as close as possible only a small part will pull right in a space will be at each end.

How do we get round this!?  By working in sections from the hairline in always sectioning to create a flat plain and by brick laying sections staggering them if you do this you will always get to the roots.

take time think about that curve adjust your sections it will make the work of difference to you!

Of course still consider re growth application colour balance and formulation but take the time to work on those sections. It's all about angles as you understand these  section you find you will naturally start to apply them to cutting sections as well it will give you over time greater understanding of shape and weight distribution.

sharing thoughts

 Look around when out in public and see so many cases of over processed hair you see. Badly done highlights and streaks examples of this can come in many forms.

Streaks and Highlights that look bright at the roots but fade away in the mid lengths and ends. Streaks highlights low lights that have been done with bleach pre lightening and then colour deposited on top to create pigment and tone, in so many cases this colour fades away oh so quickly, leaving bright yellow blonde roots and faded flat colour on the rest of the hair shaft caused by over processing over lifting lack of porosity in the hair.

Patchy streaks dull blonde caused by using wrong shade as a toner. An example of this yellow blonde lift from bleach decolourizer, then  selecting ash as toner a misconception that ash is the correct shade yellow and blue make for a green hue! Violet would be a correct choice.

colour corrected with highlights and low lights.

All hair colouring is addressing issues around colour balancing replacing pigments that the hair is lacking. Everything stems from the three primary colours that make up hair colour Red, Blue, Yellow. We then have secondary colour and so on using ones colour wheel is key to correct colour balancing toning and correction a re-balancing or replacing missing pigments.

When colouring hair. Having the knowledge and an understanding of the process lift, deposit, neutralizing and utilizing underlying pigment. The chemistry and pigments you have exposed through the lifting process for colouring is all about lift and deposit not just choose a colour and put in on any given head.

Most Colour brands will lift a maximum of 4 levels so if you are lifting from a level 6 to 10 you will not get to the target colour with 40 volume peroxide and your colour will always be to gold or yellow! Why? underlying pigment.

When considering the above lift from level 6 to 10 think about where 6 lives on a colour wheel then think about level 10 then consider all the under pigment you will expose as you lift through these levels this will help you decide if your Target is possible.

As soon as you lift level 6 one level you expose red orange, then orange then yellow orange then yellow and last of all pale yellow so four levels of lift will leave you with a yellow base.

So if your trying for a natural blonde it will be to yellow so toning what do we choose? Ash ? Violet? Beige?

blonde high lights low lights
Lets go back to level 6 to 10 and 40 volume peroxide this degree of lift is not possible why because you have to lift through level 6 then 7,8,9 this is your four level so 10 is not attainable with permanent colour unless you pre-lighten with Bleach decolourizer,

This process warrants some time so you don't end up with bright over lifted roots!

Before we embark on this we have to consider the head we are working on is it pre-coloured? can we lift out that colour? again what pigment will we expose? what condition is the hair in how porous is it? will it hold colour? strand test it  when wet will it stretch? does it float or sink in water? if it does not float it's over processed and will not hold colour strongly recommend not to pre lighten this hair.

Consultation look touch question. but remember that most people tend to be rather dishonest about their colour history weather it be home exploration or professional also some hair dresser tell clients that colours are semi permanent even when they do both lift and deposit! why because they don't take the time to understand the chemistry of the product they are using also many of the companies miss lead stylist in the way their colours work!

Herbal, Ammonia free, no lift, no peroxide. ask, ask, ask, then ask again!! get all the information you can be the best you can understand the chemistry of the colour and the the pigment available to you in any given shade.

Will the Natural series have enough pigment to hold a natural level when using 20 volume peroxide or will it be to warm ? Questions you have to ask your self and consider,

Good luck Mike B2MR

Thursday, 26 May 2011

The salon the consultation building relationships with clients:

                                           Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: 
 regular postings of fresh new topic's.

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea's on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.
copy right pending

How do we respond to the issue's and demands that face us in today's salon? How do we get that edge? How can we compete and attract new business and indeed retain our existing client base? Should we discount? If so how? If yes why? Should a long term client expect special treatment? A deal?
It's is my view that if we are doing our job properly we should not have to discount. What is properly Service, attentiveness, skill, professional knowledge.creativity.
If you go to the dentist every 6 months do they offer discount for their service? I think not.
We need to cherish our clients outstanding service consultation genuine caring.
For me as a stylist giving back would be working with community to help raise awareness on certain issues, Charity work fund raising. Making a difference improving things for many. Not just giving out the odd discount to make someone feel extra special!
Check out raising funds locally for cancer relief. your local addiction centre. Maybe a children's charity, Aids research, choose a cause that works for you and your staff support it as a team and as a business.
When asked for a discount you can say 'sorry rather than discount we support our given charity'

How many new clients come through our door only to leave never to be seen again? Maybe instead of constantly trying to attract new business we should concentrate on the business we have. It is a fact that over 25% of clients that visit a salon never return.Why is this?

Let look into the topic of Service that ultimate salon experience:

This by definition is a total package of pampering making our clients feel very special affording a very unique standard of service this can be the environment created the atmosphere furnishing image all key to this experience.
This being said we must not detract from importance education knowledge and communication all the tools required for the ultimate consultation. In so many cases the consultation is either very short rushed none caring uninformative.

It does not matter how much time energy and money are committed to the visual the comfort level the service the overall  experience if the  package is not supported by honest caring hands on service from a knowledgeable stylist.
The consultation should be your time to shine but it's also your time to connect with your client  make them feel at ease discover the issues the history of the their hair what brings them to you.
Discover what you can do for them how you can take a journey together to reach there desired goals discuss condition, image, look find out what makes your client comfortable putting people at ease yet taking control comes with experience assure them that everything is possible it just takes time patients and a game plan.
I read one comment that suggested turn the conversation to what they client needs and wants! How can we do this if we do not take the time to discover who they are and what those needs and wants might be!

We have to take the time to ask all the right questions and listen to the response, it's not about us or what we think is needed it is up to us to discover unlock those inner needs. The skill is patients and asking the right questions. It is my experience that women do know what they want sometimes by finding out what they don't want we get an idea of a direction to move toward.
The skills we need go far beyond those of just wanting to do hair. To truly succeed we need to be skilled and versed in so many fields communication public and human relations.
I also think that it's very important to touch on the topic of boundaries we cannot please every client we cannot take the same journey with everyone. Sometimes after a consultation we just know that this is not going to be a fit have the courage to say you don't think this will work trust me when I say you get more respect and it will not effect your business to have clear and defined boundaries.
In some cases it's all about the deal. If the deal is the expectation of discount maybe this is not who you want to work with. making some one feel special and look great offering sound advise solving hair issues is the business we are in. If it takes a discount to make someone feel wanted and special. then maybe they need to find a discount chain. the chances are they will never be happy with their hair or the salon or stylist!
It is not failure to not get involved it is failure to let your EGO say i can deal with this rather than admitting it's not a fit and adviser maybe a different stylist or salon.

So Lets take a look into our make believe salon: Have that consultation together. This could be you the stylist or you the client!

It could be any where any town on any high street maybe as you read you will think hey that's me that's us.

I'm booked into a local salon having been recommended by a friend that the stylist here was very attentive very talented offered excellent service. I'm excited a new stylist a new vision a new look!
My friend had been on a Saturday and said the place was very busy another good indication or so we like to think .
I work Saturdays Tuesday is my day off My appointment booked  i arrive a little before my appointment I hate being late.
It's 10am as i enter the salon a young lady look up from the reception desk she is on the phone  smiles and indicates i should take a seat.
It's early i know but the places is empty! The receptionist look up having finished on the phone and says can i help you i inform her who i am and that i have an appointment with [ stylist ]   she looks at the book vague look on her face then says oh sorry she is not in today i have booked you with [new stylist] not the one recommended, Oh that's a shame i was recommended oh they never work Tuesdays  hum so why was i not told this when i made the appointment instant unease. Two very young looking stylist appear from the back of the salon talking with each other as they get nearer to the reception i am introduced to one of them as your next client [ warning lights are going off]
This young person takes me to a chair stops chewing her gum long enough to introduce her self to me and say what are we doing  for you today all the time talking to me in the mirror looking at her self.
Time to leave  !!
Are you laughing yet of course this is not you! is it? Trust me it happens all the time and then stylist wonder why they loose business and clients. Yes maybe a bit extreme but i have seen this situation many times.
What should this experience for our client be this person who we want to build a relationship with this person the we hope will recommend us and the salon for the service and skill we provide and offer.
The Service the consultation and linked they are both key to success.
From the moment a client enters into a salon the experience begins those first impressions the look the feel of the place the atmosphere.
That first greeting that welcome normally receptionist or a salon staff member who job is to meet and greet , this is a hugely important role if given this role, don't turn it down it's a way to hone your people skills.
With new clients some salon will have a questionnaire this is great for both stylist and client it show the salon cares it puts the client at ease whilst waiting for her appointment maybe whilst having a coffee or tea.
From a stylist point of view it gives us back ground information so we can ask the right questions during our consultation without information how can we give sound advise.
Once this has been filled out as a stylist i think it's important to come a meet your client introduce your self to the client you should already know your clients name this should be on your personal day agenda sheet.
[yes a list of clients for the day the service they are hoping for and weather they are new or return or recommend clients]   I say hoping for because with out having a consultation all the facts how can we decide what is possible !! we cannot.
Trust me when i say i have seen many stylist work out their days take before the day starts. I have worked with one stylist  who would get into work look at the day sheet and get all the tubes of colour out for that day putting them aside, how could you possible know what a client wants in advance of them of talking with them. How boring ! well this stylist was really very boring personality of a  dead fly!!!

Back to the plot 
First impression count how you look and present your self says who you are its all about the image you project your dress hair makeup! that look that says this is me! what can i do for you?
We have introduced our self walked our client though to our work station this area is representative to who you are how you work , untidy dirty chaos does not work!
With the clip board on your lap sit next to your client  eye level eye contact remember you have some information to hand so use it.
Not what are we doing today ! 'how about'
I see from the information you have kindly filled you you had a hair cut 6 weeks ago  how has that been working out for you. How manageable have you found it as it's grown out. when that leads into what brings you here today how can i help all leading  open ended questions.
This now leaves the door open for easy conversation you have relaxed your client you are starting to build trust.
Personal routine, products used, if chemical service has been carried out on the hair even if not being re done on this occasion it still needs to be touched on for future booking and for advice and comment
Never ever put a colour chart on a clients lap and say what colour do you want today it's our job as professionals to advise on colour that can work and look stunning.
Having established History and indeed wish list we can move on the recommendations.
style, look, length, colour , products styling tips maintenance be honest i like to refer to a relationship as taking a journey together that with patients honesty open the doors to endless possibilities.
In closing having a fully booked day is what most stylist long for consistently busy, but consider when fully booked or over booked we lose clients ! Why however good we are the standard of service drops.

Don't take short cuts, keep clients waiting, you sacrifice your standards for a few extra £££ or $$$$.
If you do this and you do more damage than good a dissatisfied client will go else where taking her friends with her! it's Service, reliability, Service consultation, Service, skill oh and More Service!!!
It's not discount buy a relationship buy a client!

Salon and business: Support help advise
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If you need a little help advise a little one one time maybe you feel you would like your team to step things up need help i'm just a phone call or e-mail away.