Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:
Regular postings of fresh new topic's.
A place to share thoughts post comments and idea's on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.
Brief history and information on the chemistry and development in the hair colour process be it professional or home hair colour or dye.
Ammonia PPD Free Hair Colour Ingredients:
PPD Free Hair Colour ingredients:
Until the early 1900s, hair coloring was made from a wide range of herbal and natural dyes. Flying in the face of other chemists who found the development of hair coloring trivial and unworthy of their time, French chemist Eugene Schuller created the first safe commercial hair coloring in 1909. His invention was based on a new chemical paraphenylenediamine.{ has a petroleum ring to it does it not?} As does the newest colour delivery system MEA based from ethanol-Ammonia see a pattern.
Ammonia Friend or foe!
The two main chemical ingredients involved in any coloring process that lasts longer than 12 shampoos are:
Until the early 1900s, hair coloring was made from a wide range of herbal and natural dyes. Flying in the face of other chemists who found the development of hair coloring trivial and unworthy of their time, French chemist Eugene Schuller created the first safe commercial hair coloring in 1909. His invention was based on a new chemical paraphenylenediamine.{ has a petroleum ring to it does it not?} As does the newest colour delivery system MEA based from ethanol-Ammonia see a pattern.
The two main chemical ingredients involved in any coloring process that lasts longer than 12 shampoos are:
Ammonia - This alkaline allows for lightening by acting as a catalyst when the permanent hair color comes together with the peroxide. Like all alkaline products ammonia tends to separate or open the cuticle and allow the hair color to penetrate the cortex of the hair changes the Ph from our desired 5 to 5.5 to 7 and beyond. Detergent are also an Alkaline when we mix detergent and small amount ammonia we can create a very basic foaming semi permanent or a shampoo rinse!
Hydrogen Peroxide- (also known as the developer or oxidizing agent) This ingredient in varying forms and strengths, helps initiate the color-forming process and creates longer-lasting color.
Hydrogen peroxide is made up of two atoms of oxygen and two of hydrogen H/2O/2 available in both cream and liquid form, In most professional salon found as a cream. Hydrogen peroxide is measured by % hairdressing professional refer to it as being measured in volume.[this relates to the volume of gas being released in the chemical reaction] for the majority of hair coloring the developer is maintained at 30% volume or less.
Alternatives to industrial professional tints:
These would be known as natural hair colour derived from plants and root extract not to be confused with some of the herbal ammonia free hair colour marketed today. It has been recorded historically that ancient civilizations dyed their hair using plants. Some of the most well known are henna, indigo, Cassia obovata, senna, turmeric and amla. Others include katam, black walnut hulls, and leeks.Presently, there are some companies that do sell alternate-based dyes for people that are sensitive to PPD, a chemical found in most hair colours.
Hydrogen Peroxide- (also known as the developer or oxidizing agent) This ingredient in varying forms and strengths, helps initiate the color-forming process and creates longer-lasting color.
Hydrogen peroxide is made up of two atoms of oxygen and two of hydrogen H/2O/2 available in both cream and liquid form, In most professional salon found as a cream. Hydrogen peroxide is measured by % hairdressing professional refer to it as being measured in volume.[this relates to the volume of gas being released in the chemical reaction] for the majority of hair coloring the developer is maintained at 30% volume or less.
These would be known as natural hair colour derived from plants and root extract not to be confused with some of the herbal ammonia free hair colour marketed today. It has been recorded historically that ancient civilizations dyed their hair using plants. Some of the most well known are henna, indigo, Cassia obovata, senna, turmeric and amla. Others include katam, black walnut hulls, and leeks.Presently, there are some companies that do sell alternate-based dyes for people that are sensitive to PPD, a chemical found in most hair colours.
These PPD.free products are said to be safer products that avoid the side-effects of most industrial tints. The safer alternatives generally contain fewer potentially toxic compounds or are plant based. These products are available in a variety of different formats those being. Temporary Semi-permanent and permanent options.However these products typically do not last as long as industrial tints once again the engine driving the colour can be classed as herbal but it may be just as toxic as Ammonia! grain alcohol known as Denatured alcohol for example Silicone and oils.
It makes sense to use a reputable, ethical, safe hair colour! Good luck with this still not convinced these companies are totally honest in the way they represent the product or the chemistry of the formulation.
It makes sense to use a reputable, ethical, safe hair colour! Good luck with this still not convinced these companies are totally honest in the way they represent the product or the chemistry of the formulation.
Types Of Products:
Hair colour Dyes are available today in all forms. Liquid, powder, oil, cream and gel, etc. Mascaras, crayons and sprays are used as temporary and semi-permanent dying, whereas gel and other forms are used for permanent styling. Once again the products all have different edge or hook those being Oils Silicone.metallic salts and wax the list goes.
We are all unique! and no one else has exactly the same hue as you!
You might look black, brown, red or blonde, but there are subtle differences.Amazingly nature creates a different dye for everyone using only two types of the natural pigments "melanin": umelanin (black pigment) and pheomelanin (red/yellow pigment).
In most case the skin colour and tone our eye colour all those different flecks and indeed our hair colour a multitude of shades tones all make us unique and normally compliment each other.
It is all of these pigments that we encounter when deciding to embark on hair colouring. It is this pigment and levels natural shade that we consider when making decisions on a new colour formulations. Knowing what products are how they work the chemistry of any given products is key to being successful and making the correct colour choice and formulation decision.
Home hair color products fall into the following ranges:
Temporary – Lasts through 1-2 shampoos. Coats outside of cuticle but does not usually contain peroxide or ammonia. Will not lift color but will deepen, brighten or enhance existing colour. this includes the bright high fashion shades. some of these colours can build up of they can some times result in staining that can stay behind as colour washes out especially on porous hair.
Semi-Permanent – Lasts 4-6 shampoos. Coats outside of the cuticle and sometimes deeper deposit can be created depending on the ph of the product opening the cuticle layer. Generally is free of peroxide or ammonia. May be more permanent in some situations.
Continued use can result in pigment build up/staining especially on very porous hair sometimes have alkaline base to open cuticle this can create build up and staining.
Demi-Permanent – Lingers through up to 20 shampoos. Deposits colour between cuticle and cortex. normally contain low level of peroxide and/or ammonia. or something that does the same job change the Ph open the cuticle to enable deposit.
Permanent – Cuticle is opened and color is deposited down into the cortex. Contains peroxide and ammonia. or something else to deliver the colour molecule [eg MEA} Colour lasts until it grows out, is cut off or is recolored.
Highlights – Lifts pigments from the cortex. Contains peroxide, bleach and ammonia. volume of peroxide dictates lift timing essential.
While Temporary, Semi and Demi- Permanent hues are generally considered safe it is fair to point out there are always exceptions to every hair rule, For example in some situations, wash out tones may become permanent if applied to strands that are porous or damaged from previous bleaching or chemical treatments. What does this mean exactly?
That if you apply a temporary colour to strands that are damaged and thus porous or more absorbent than normal the colour will seep down deep into the cortex and may permanently stain. Thus repeated attempts to wash out the colour will be ineffective. Again this explanation is true of the bright fashion shades. Build up and staining can create issues when trying to switch into new colours!
Note: If you are unsure how your hair will adopt to hair colour, dial the toll free help lines provided with most home hair colour kits or skip the home colour exercise and contact a professional colourist. or you can at a stretch take a small sample strand from the nape area and apply some colour a strand test.
If you have a good working relationship with your stylist, consider discussing your home hair color plans in advance with them. Many hairdressers will be supportive of your goals if you are honest with them.
As stylists we should be professional if in this situation and give good sound advise it will come back to you in positive ways.
I hope this has helped you a little please leave comments views and thoughts Mike B2MR
In most case the skin colour and tone our eye colour all those different flecks and indeed our hair colour a multitude of shades tones all make us unique and normally compliment each other.
It is all of these pigments that we encounter when deciding to embark on hair colouring. It is this pigment and levels natural shade that we consider when making decisions on a new colour formulations. Knowing what products are how they work the chemistry of any given products is key to being successful and making the correct colour choice and formulation decision.
Home hair color products fall into the following ranges:
Temporary – Lasts through 1-2 shampoos. Coats outside of cuticle but does not usually contain peroxide or ammonia. Will not lift color but will deepen, brighten or enhance existing colour. this includes the bright high fashion shades. some of these colours can build up of they can some times result in staining that can stay behind as colour washes out especially on porous hair.
Semi-Permanent – Lasts 4-6 shampoos. Coats outside of the cuticle and sometimes deeper deposit can be created depending on the ph of the product opening the cuticle layer. Generally is free of peroxide or ammonia. May be more permanent in some situations.
Continued use can result in pigment build up/staining especially on very porous hair sometimes have alkaline base to open cuticle this can create build up and staining.
Demi-Permanent – Lingers through up to 20 shampoos. Deposits colour between cuticle and cortex. normally contain low level of peroxide and/or ammonia. or something that does the same job change the Ph open the cuticle to enable deposit.
Permanent – Cuticle is opened and color is deposited down into the cortex. Contains peroxide and ammonia. or something else to deliver the colour molecule [eg MEA} Colour lasts until it grows out, is cut off or is recolored.
Highlights – Lifts pigments from the cortex. Contains peroxide, bleach and ammonia. volume of peroxide dictates lift timing essential.
While Temporary, Semi and Demi- Permanent hues are generally considered safe it is fair to point out there are always exceptions to every hair rule, For example in some situations, wash out tones may become permanent if applied to strands that are porous or damaged from previous bleaching or chemical treatments. What does this mean exactly?
That if you apply a temporary colour to strands that are damaged and thus porous or more absorbent than normal the colour will seep down deep into the cortex and may permanently stain. Thus repeated attempts to wash out the colour will be ineffective. Again this explanation is true of the bright fashion shades. Build up and staining can create issues when trying to switch into new colours!
Note: If you are unsure how your hair will adopt to hair colour, dial the toll free help lines provided with most home hair colour kits or skip the home colour exercise and contact a professional colourist. or you can at a stretch take a small sample strand from the nape area and apply some colour a strand test.
If you have a good working relationship with your stylist, consider discussing your home hair color plans in advance with them. Many hairdressers will be supportive of your goals if you are honest with them.
As stylists we should be professional if in this situation and give good sound advise it will come back to you in positive ways.
I hope this has helped you a little please leave comments views and thoughts Mike B2MR
