I have decided to touch on some of the issues that. Salon owners and managers encounter. Stylists need to address. Clients can often be effected by. What it it ? Quite simply a poor or bad job. Accidents can and do happen things can go wrong, But excuses are easy to fall back on.
Blaming the product. The client . Blaming the salon owner team work mates! How about taking responsibility for your self and your actions. Raising your won personal standards of skill and knowledge, taking responsibility being accountable. yes stepping up!
Some of those reading this may well be thinking. What gives me the right to raise these issues?
Sadly because it happens to often and needs to be addressed. If it's not you great well done you but bet you know a stylist who this addresses?
So what are these poorly done services.
Lets start with what is so basic and yet can be a huge problem for some. Bad or wrong formulation. Poor application of product.
Bad formulation can be the cause of. Poor or thin deposit. Hot roots can be caused by a wrong assessment during the consultation or wrong choice of formulation. Also colour and Developer and timing.
Consultation correct assessment will improve this along with understanding of the colour wheel. maybe take the time to read the technical manual that came with your colour chart it's normally the black stuff! Assessing Grey issues. This includes the amount of N series required in formula . When the colour is thin with poor deposit then wrong formulation is the only answer nothing else!
Either not enough N series in formulation or wrong developer poor timing! all down to stylist technician!
Never put the shade chart on a clients lap and say what colour do you ant to day ! Good Consultation and assessment is the key.
Mudding browning out colour.
Again when this situation arises the stylist has to look in the mirror and take responsibility. This is caused by applying a formulation to the roots. Having chosen formulation developer mixed applied for either lift or Grey issue. This formulation should not be left for 20 mins in the bowl then applied as as the refresher! this product has oxidised in the bowl. Its of no use.
The mid lengths and ends will in most cases be previously coloured so they need colour balancing. applying the root formulation will over process and will cause dull muddy or brown out your colour. Not to mention longer term issues!
Banding. Normal and Grey hair issues:
Yes maybe a repeat of topic! But banding is poor application of the product either over lapping or not enough application of product. [watch how much product on your brush and thickness of sections]
When related to Grey issues banding is normally wrong assessment of formulation in most cases when considering Grey hair coverage the normal rule is [25% of the N series would be required in formulation if 25% Grey in any given two inch section seen during consultation assessment.]
So what ver the percentage of Grey in any area you need that amount of N series in your formulation!
Yes two things to remember you may be 70% Grey on the top section and 40% at the back different formulations required! That being both the N series and indeed developer choice. It's not just mix and slap it on!
How many times have I. Do I see this. That colour with bright roots. They can be. Red. Copper. Bright orange. This arrises with both home colour and in the salon.
You know the look. A fashionable Brunette. Natural deep Reds. visually the roots are bright hot more lift than colour deposit. The regrowth has not taken the colour it's just lift bright tacky looking. [Also happens with Grey issues again N series in formulation choice of developer]
Hot roots is caused by wrong choice of colour wrong developer. amount or ratio of mixed formulation!
All this leads to stylist error ! not the product.
Colour Balancing Combing colour through.
Again Mid lengths and ends of colour need to be colour balanced a formulation to refresh Not lift and deposit .Do not apply old left over colour from root application. Mix less to start with .Think salon wastage!!
I have and do see so many stylist combing colour through sort of slapping on mid lengths and ends working in a little.
One needs to take section and apply colour evenly down the hair shaft full cover is essential.
So all of the above issues are caused by poor application and wrong assessment. No excuse it's the stylist technician who need to stand up and be counted !!
So may different forms of this technique from caps to foil to papers.most of the issues that arise stem from formulation and application.
Cap Highlights.
Biggest issues over lapping product on hair already highlighted leading to breakage. Try to use a cap on hair that is to long! use of wrong toner!
Where to start so many issues on this maybe weave and sections. Uneven weave and not thinking about placement of foils or papers. ket is to make sure that you don't create a root looking issue and your sectioning is even and clean. working to the plane or curve of the head!
Bleeding.
Again the stylist has to take responsibility for this. Caused by sloppy application. untidy work. Application of two much product. to root area. foil or paper squashed either squeezing product into roots or folding paper or foil so tightly no room for expansion of the product especially Bleach.
If adding heat the product will expand more and quicker before then drying out as the moisture evaporates. [ A thing i think not required it's formulation and timing].
Adding heat to the formulation lift process can also create beading sort leopard spots.Cause the product dries out and does not expand giving even lift.
Big patches of bleached hair random caused by two much product application the products spreads out drawn toward the scalp by naturally produced heat. it seeps out of paper or foil expands and creates blobs. Stylist error.
Breakage.
Caused by overlapping Bleach or product and over processing hair it will stretch and break off when being combed out. HAIR IS VERY FRAGILE WHEN WET! especially after chemical service.
Well this goes back to grass roots formulation and timing. poor lift will with highlights normally cause problems with to much warmth.
Possibly to Orange or yellow if this is the case an assessment to re apply more lifting formulation normally bleach decolouriser. Or toning to control pigment exposed.
To many stylist when toning reach for the ash toner! you have to assess the tone you have and work out what is needed to neutralise that unwanted tone. Ash,Violet, Beige. consult the colour wheel . it's about balance. Orange normally requires Ash toner. Yellow normally requires Violet toner.
Poor uneven lift when lightening previously coloured hair.
This topic could be classed as corrective if you don't have the skill the knowledge seek help or don't take it on. get the skills first.
See previous [ Posting Colour case review on Highlighting a solid colour ]
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