Our Love with Hair colour:
Be it organic based all natural or synthetic our love of hair Colour is never ending so we need to be well informed.
Here are some facts and useful basic information.
Primary Colours: Pure Colour.
These are pure Colours they cannot be made by mixing others Colours together.
We use colour. To describe people and emotions. e.g Green with envy, feeling down feeling Blue, seeing Red, Red with anger.
Colour surrounds us constantly changing sky. Blooming flowers.
A world with out colour would be a very dull world indeed. We even use colour to describe how we feel warm cold excited tranquil.
We use hair colour. To describe people. We have all been guilty of Stereotyping people because by hair colour. Their look.
The Big debate. Gentlemen prefer Blondes! Blondes have more fun! or do they just get noticed quicker? or as suggested in some circle, 'Just get dirty quicker'!
The Fire associated with red heads hot head out spoken, head strong! or is it self confidence?
The Brunette. Safe Approachable. Natural, health. Inwardly content? maybe.
Throughout the ages we have explored different products some natural some chemical to dye and stain our hair be it short term or longer lasting.
Examples of these would be as follows:
True vegetable Dyes: The are derived from Herbs. Plants . Flowers. Vegetables and Bark.
As a note. These natural alternatives. Do not contain Alkaline be that Ammonia. MEA or products produced from grain Alcohol added to them.
They are true natural infusions or rinses they will enhance hair colour and add shine.
They are true natural infusions or rinses they will enhance hair colour and add shine.
Advantages. Natural stain will not enter hair shaft may build up over time. Disadvantage will not cover Grey hair.
TIP Vegetable rinses and Infusions should not be used on Chemically treated hair!
Henna as a Colour
Red Henna comes from. The dried leaves of the Privet [lawsonia alba] grown in Asia and northern Africa.
Natural henna comes from the crushed root.
Natural henna is sometimes mixed with compounds of Metallic salts to produce a range of different colours. Hair coloured with metallic salt henna cannot and should not be coloured with any other products with formulation that have contained Ammonia. Hydrogen Peroxide.
if in any doubt do a strand test. Strong dis coloration. An unpleasant smell no colour change. Uneven results down hair shaft. In some case applying permanent colour over the top of Metallic salts can cause a high heat reaction!
if in any doubt do a strand test. Strong dis coloration. An unpleasant smell no colour change. Uneven results down hair shaft. In some case applying permanent colour over the top of Metallic salts can cause a high heat reaction!
Henna can make appear shinny with more body and natural red hues depending on natural base level!
Henna Can over time build up on hair make it brittle it is not possible to chemically remove henna.
{Again before attempting any new colour strand test is essential!}
SEMI-PERMANENT COLOUR
Rich dark Chocolate Brown!
Semi permanent Colour will make the same hair depth as the Natural base shade, good for changing tones gold,red, copper, Burgundy,
It works by depositing relatively small colour Molecules in the hair [Red molecule is the largest of all] these products generally have a Ph around 8 to 9 so they do open the cuticle a little, over time can build up and stain ! But in normal case they fade with shampooing as it's only a partial deposit.
Used a a good introduction with clients to colour. {remember results will vary given hair type, condition, clients colour history, the chemistry of the product, sadly some colour companies mislead us}
Advantages:
Useful for enhancing hair colour or refreshing tint applications. adds shine and Gloss.ideal for bold fashion statement . Safe to use on Permed hair .
Disadvantage:
Wash out four to six weeks depending on frequency of washing. Result can be patchy uneven, cannot lighten hair. Over time may build up causing longer term staining.
Permanent Colour:
Permanent hair colour affords us the ultimate service: allowing us the choices of infinite shades full Grey coverage. These dyes lighten the hairs natural melanin and tint at the same time. These Dyes will only become effective when mixed with hydrogen peroxide a topic i will cover down the road but at this juncture i will advise the level of peroxide one chooses can and will effect the colour you choose and final result on so many levels! normally comes in strengths of 10. 3% 20.6% 30.9% 40.12%Volume Hydrogen Peroxide comes in levels up to 100% nothing more than 40% is recommended for hair application.
[At this point i think things will get to technical if i out line how this process works contact me to discuss}
Problems to watch out for:
Colour fade this is generally due to the cuticle being raised or damaged. allowing the colour wash out and fade. This can be result of over processing porosity and Ph of the hair.
Another huge mistake many make when doing permanent colour is a root-regrowth application and then combing through that same formulation after a period of time to the mid-lenghts and ends. this leads to muddy colour and over processing one should always colour balance.{ topic for future discussion}.
Rich reds are possible.
Hair resistant to colour:
Strong white or Grey or cause thick hair the cuticle scales packed close together. In this instance we might need to pre-soften one school of thought is to run 10 vol 3%through the hair leave for 20 mins rinse cool water prior to applying colour.
I think That given that 10 Vol 3% alone could still give some lift and given that Grey hair still holds pigment I might suggest an alternative.
Having chosen you desired natural target level mix as a pre-soften solution 1 part N series{target level} with 1.5 or 1 1/2 times water leave for 20 mins. after this apply your target colour directly over this application. {proceed as normal root application colour balance.}
Natural Blonde looks with highlights
Advantages :
permanently changes hair colour,
Can lighten and tone at the same time,
100%Grey coverage,
wide choice colour, versatility,
Disadvantages:
requires Client commitment to regular process,
Colour fade especially if hair is or becomes over processed.
Risk of skin allergy irritation : {always do skin test}
In my next blog I will talk about peroxide hair Lift, exposing different pigment in the hair, becoming part of the colour equation,
Many colours can be added to create texture and dimension,
Cool red, natural blonde, beige, we just need to consider the head of hair we are working on.
Finally in these days of hot straitening irons, craving for the sun, Chlorine build up we have to be super careful.
Condition protect cover up !
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