what is. The right choice of colour line for your salon?

Back2myroots: A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

Choosing: The right colour line for your Salon: How  would you go about it?

What is the right product for you? How do you get all the answer to make an informed choice or decision! With so many products on the market so many manufacturers how on earth do you decide what company what product to chose? This is a big decision and a huge out lay for any salon so you have to get it right.

Do you make a list? If so where do you start?

* Cost.

*Quality.

*Education support and training.

*Ammonia free.

*Herbal or organic.

*Reputation.

*Staff interest or approval.

*best deal at the time.

All quite valid points and all have merit to some degree. With so many manufactures all trying for the same market as wholesale or as distributor the profit and returns are very good. The goal of any distributor is to get the colour line they represent in to your salon. Most distributors will carry more than one colour line. They work every closely with the manufactures that they represent. Many work on the premiss that if they can get their colour line into your salon then the wet line and retail sales should follow. Incentives are offered such as free or reduced price back bar or display stands.maybe even some stylist products. all sounds really good. If you have never negotiated these point now you can!

Back to the question: How do you chose?

The above list may help make your own. I do think that the staff have to be onboard with this and commit to any truing that may be required. Do not go for a new colour line without any training. Poor results will follow. Collaboration between management and staff is essential.

I would suggest have a few companies put on demonstration nights to test the product and ask any valid question.Do distributors and manufactures do this yes they do they have trained educators to do this and work with the distributor. If they don't then they are not worth bothering with! If you already use a colour line but are looking to change this is usually because the staff are having issues with the product. Or a brand new product has come onto the market and it's the next got to have thing! New is good but sometimes new comes with teething issues so sit back and wait awhile!

Fact: When staff want change due to product issues 9 times out of 10 it's not the product! True it's so easy to blame a tube of colour when things go wrong normally one of the following.

* Poor deposit.

* Fading.

* Reds that don't hold.

*N series that cannot control warmth.

* Lack of general warmth control.

*Poor quality high lift shades. [normally relating when trying to go from level 6 to 10!] Da!!!  not possible asking to lift to many levels not enough pigment control!

* Not enough choice of shades.

* Want Ammonia free.

Most sales rep's are trained to ask questions prior to starting to sell you a new colour line. They know how to draw the weaknesses of the colour line you use out. All colour line shave their strengths and their weaknesses. But if you and your staff are educated properly and use the  product correctly these issues can be dealt with. All of the list above have nothing to do with the product! Do you know what it's to do with? Poor consultation.Poor assessment. Bad formulation. In other word the stylist or technician. Laziness. Poor training. or just good old not caring.

Dose quality play a part? Yes supported  by re search and investment.

Of course it does. Do you get what you pay for! for the most part yes. Do they differ that much. Yes they do. Another list!

*Cream colour or oil based.

* Direct dye or none direct. partially or fully developed colour molecules.

* Organic or herbal. or other. Big issue this come shown to some technical understanding on chemistry.

*Ammonia Free. If yes then what drives the colour?  need to know.

* Full range Permanent semi demi.options to colour balance.

* Is the N series calibrated to deal with warmth exposed at any given level?

Once you have researched and got your list of questions together now you can invite the different company representatives  to come in do a demonstration and answer your questions. I do not promote individual colour lines or products If someone were to offer me a job as an educator then i might. Do i have favourites yes1 Would I share this with you if asked Yes! But only in one on one e-mail as response to a question.

The quality of products changes constantly new ones come and go. A few of the manufactures are committed to our industry and to supporting stylist and education for some it's just business in the salon or over the counter. My advise would be research look for the ones offering the best support education and training. If you do this you don;t have to change colour lines for any of the reason's above.Why because your using the best an dour staff have the very best training and support.

One last thing: 

Some colour lines may seem cheap larger tubes mixing ratios are very important is it mix 1 part colour to 1 1/2 developer or 2 parts colour 1 part developer  and the more pigment needed for a formulation normally indicates poorer quality of pigment in the tube. Salon waste is also very expensive measure colour weigh it keep good records eye balling it is wasteful and un professional.

Mike B2MR

Love of hair colour and all things Natural.

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

Our Love with Hair colour:

Be it organic based all natural or synthetic our love of hair Colour is never ending so we need to be well informed.

Here are some facts and useful basic information.

                                                               Primary Colours: Pure Colour.

These are pure Colours they cannot be made by mixing others Colours together.

We use colour. To describe people and emotions. e.g Green with envy, feeling  down feeling Blue, seeing Red, Red with anger.

Colour surrounds us constantly changing sky. Blooming flowers.

A world with out colour would be a very dull world indeed. We even use colour to describe how we feel warm cold excited tranquil.

We use hair colour. To describe people. We have all been guilty of Stereotyping people because by hair colour. Their look. 

                                                

The Big debate.  Gentlemen prefer Blondes! Blondes have more fun! or do they just get noticed quicker? or as suggested in some circle,  'Just get dirty quicker'!

The Fire associated with red heads hot head out spoken, head strong! or is it self confidence?

The Brunette. Safe Approachable. Natural, health. Inwardly content? maybe.

Throughout the ages we have explored different products some natural some chemical to dye and stain our hair be it short term or longer lasting.

Examples of these would be as follows:

True vegetable Dyes: The are derived from Herbs. Plants . Flowers. Vegetables and Bark.

As a note. These natural alternatives. Do not contain Alkaline be that Ammonia. MEA or products produced from grain Alcohol added to them.

They are true natural infusions or rinses they will enhance hair colour and add shine.

Advantages. Natural stain will not enter hair shaft may build up over time. Disadvantage will not cover Grey hair.

TIP Vegetable rinses and Infusions should not be used on Chemically treated hair!

Henna as a Colour

Red Henna comes from. The dried leaves of the Privet [lawsonia alba] grown in Asia and northern Africa.

Natural henna comes from the crushed root.

Natural henna is sometimes mixed with compounds of Metallic salts to produce a range of different colours. Hair coloured with metallic salt henna cannot and should not be coloured with any other products with formulation that have contained Ammonia. Hydrogen Peroxide.
if in any doubt  do a strand test. Strong dis coloration. An unpleasant smell no colour change. Uneven results down hair shaft. In some case applying permanent colour over the top of Metallic salts can cause a high heat reaction!

Henna can make appear shinny with more body and natural red hues depending on natural base level!

Henna Can over time build up on hair make it brittle it is not possible to chemically remove henna.

{Again before attempting any new colour strand test is essential!}

  

                                                            SEMI-PERMANENT COLOUR

                                                                 Rich dark Chocolate Brown!

Semi permanent Colour will make the same hair depth as the Natural base shade, good for changing tones gold,red, copper, Burgundy,

It works by depositing relatively small colour Molecules in the hair [Red molecule is the largest of all] these products generally have a Ph around 8 to 9 so they do open the cuticle a little, over time can build up and stain ! But in normal case they fade with shampooing as it's only a partial deposit.

Used a a good introduction with clients to colour. {remember results will vary given hair type, condition, clients colour history, the chemistry of the product, sadly some colour companies mislead us} 
  

Advantages:

Useful for enhancing hair colour or refreshing tint applications. adds shine and Gloss.ideal for bold fashion statement . Safe to use on Permed hair .

Disadvantage:

Wash out four to six weeks depending on frequency of washing. Result can be patchy uneven, cannot lighten hair. Over time may build up causing longer term staining.

Permanent Colour: 

Permanent hair colour affords us the ultimate service: allowing us the choices of infinite shades full Grey coverage. These dyes lighten the hairs natural melanin and tint at the same time. These Dyes will only become effective when mixed with hydrogen peroxide a topic i will cover down the road but at this juncture i will advise the level of peroxide one chooses can and will effect the colour you choose and final result on so many levels! normally comes in  strengths of 10. 3% 20.6% 30.9% 40.12%Volume  Hydrogen Peroxide comes in levels up to 100% nothing more than 40% is recommended for hair application.

[At this point i think things will get to technical if i out line how this process works contact me to discuss}

Problems to watch out for:

Colour fade  this is generally due to the cuticle being raised or damaged. allowing the colour wash out and fade.  This can be result of over processing porosity and Ph of the hair. 

Another huge mistake many make when doing permanent colour is a root-regrowth application and then combing through that same formulation after a period of time to the mid-lenghts and ends. this leads to muddy colour and over processing one should always colour balance.{ topic for future discussion}.

                                                               Rich reds are possible.

Hair resistant to colour:

Strong white or Grey or cause thick  hair the cuticle scales packed close together. In this instance we might need to pre-soften one school of thought is to run 10 vol 3%through the hair leave for 20 mins rinse cool water prior to applying colour.

I think That given that 10 Vol 3% alone could still give some lift and given that Grey hair still holds pigment I might suggest an alternative.

Having chosen you desired natural target level mix as a pre-soften solution 1 part N series{target level} with 1.5 or 1 1/2 times water leave for 20 mins. after this apply your target colour directly  over this  application. {proceed as normal root application colour balance.}

                                                
                                                        Natural Blonde looks with highlights

Advantages :

permanently changes hair colour,

Can lighten and tone at the same time,

100%Grey coverage,

wide choice colour, versatility,

Disadvantages:

requires Client commitment to regular process,

Colour fade especially if hair is or becomes over processed.                                                                         

Risk of skin allergy irritation : {always do skin test}

In my next blog I will talk about peroxide hair Lift, exposing different pigment in the hair, becoming part of the colour equation,

Many colours can be added to create texture and dimension,

Cool red, natural blonde, beige, we just need to consider the head of hair we are working on.

Finally in these days of hot straitening irons, craving for the sun, Chlorine build up we have to be super careful.

Condition protect cover up !

Hair colour Herbal Natural organic or...

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic's http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

Looking At Hair colour products!

I do not claim to know or have knowledge about. All there is to know about all the different hair colours on the market.
I do try and keep up to date I do try and get information on all products i come across.
I tried to find out about INOA when it came out, I contacted L'oreal  they did not get back to me I asked them to explain why MEA is so new and exciting: no reply!
See past Blog for information on MEA

I was approached to write a review on my Blog on the re launch of Wella Blondor and Koleston Colour high lift Blonde:
They even offered to provided a press release. Nice but that is telling me what to say. I asked for some more information i sent a list of questions: no reply!
I have to think it's new packaging maybe new formulation but maybe not that innovative?

Most recently i have been contacted by a an Organic hair colour company.
quote:

Mike,
I found a comment you wrote on Organic Color Systems web site.  Our company Saphir Hair Care have developed an Ammonia-Free color line that I would love to get your feedback on.  I would love to send you some samples in hope that you would give us honest feedback on our product.  Thank you for your time.
Nico Tricoci
Saphir USA
I have replied so hope that i hear back from them ,so i can share a review with you all

To be fair  I have been to the the Organic hair colour company web site they do have a very informative web site but it still raised questions, questions that need answering. although i tried to talk with some one  the person was always to busy
Questions
Why denatured grain alcohol? formulation for Grey coverage? why no colour balancing?
One of my big concerns with Grey formulations is that they are formatted to address the Grey Issues great for the roots, but why run that same formula through the rest of the hair. you cannot have generic formulation for Grey hair ie 50% what ever the amount of Grey!

At issues is the fact that the formula is for Grey hair and mix of natural and target colour also level of peroxide so in running this into the mid lengths and ends two things happen.
One still running peroxide through hair that has already been coloured this promotes over processing and drab colour.
Also when hair has been previously coloured it does not need a formulation with peroxide colour balance would be Demi formulation also no need for Natural series in the formulation.
So an example of this might be 50%5N[natural] 50%5BR [Beige Red] putting this formulation on the roots of someone with 50% Grey would be fine for a roots application, but not to leave the said formula in a bowl and then running it through the mid lengths and ends!
The ends only need the 5BR formula and don't need the now slightly gone off peroxide in said formula,
As a rule of thumb for Grey issues what ever the % of Grey is the amount of Natural series required in a formula, having said this when doing colour it is always advisable to know the base formulation of any Natural series with relation to warmth control. Grey hair still has Pigment so the stronger the peroxide the more warmth you will expose. I would suggest doing a pre fill and using as lower volume of peroxide as possible start with 10vol 3%.

 So although trying it still misleading to call it all natural and certainly call the formulation education material up to date!

So in preaching health and condition they need to look at what they preach and teach we as stylist need to keep asking these questions!

If we don't have the knowledge if we don't ask the question nothing ever changes we get what we are allow our selves to be sold and taken in by.

So as quick review our options are.

MEA Monoethanolamine:
Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethylene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? would you think that good for hair?
Definition:
Alcohol denatured:
A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
Sounds good too!
Definition:
Ammonia:
An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3,  first step in the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material. It is perhaps the deadliest agent to tropical fish. Care must be made to ensure that the ammonia levels stay at zero. Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia and some companies have levels way above this the higher the level the more damage can be caused!

So the choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.
 
Professional Hair Colour Companies have to be help accountable to inform and be transparent about the formulation of there products and the education material should be informative and up to date.

                                              http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

To follow up on information on hair colour reviews techniques go to my web site click on Blog!
 As always thanks for reading.  MikeB2MR