Perfect shades of Red and copper hair colour.
I post this topic with a love for red hair colour and the challenges they pose mainly colour retention keeping those rich vibrant tones.
I found an interesting link that i will share at the bottom of the article even though it saddens me that it's promoting home box colour and does not promote the hair salon and professional hair colour services.
so much for manufacture support for the professional.
so much for manufacture support for the professional.
When we think of reds there are just so many shades to choose from. Hot reds,warm controlled reds and copper shades all the way through to cool blue mauve reds. The red shades are the hardest to get to last keep that rich true colour. The rule is hardest to get into the hair last to come out!
Choosing the correct shade the right volume of Peroxide are all so key to good results using the natural pigment in the clients hair to give depth and longevity to colour. If we use to higher volume of peroxide we can lift the hair to much lifting out any red or orange and giving us a yellow orange pigment base. Always consider target colour and what will be exposed in the lifting process.
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Faded dull with Grey root issue |
All food for thought? But we also need to consider the formulation for root application the formulation to colour balance on mid lengths and ends.
Hot or bright roots seems to be a huge problem then we also have to consider a formulation for Grey coverage.
Hot roots are normally caused by lack of N natural series or a controlling green or blue base if to bright.
With the examples: Of red and copper below. I have tried to show that it is possible to change shade in this case red without damaging or causing stress on the hair.
As you can see the different shades chosen are all in the same family red, red copper, red brown they all work with skin and eye colour of the model.
The Key to switching colour and shade is to do it in stages. Work up and down the shades slowly going from lighter to darker is easy tone on tone. To go Darker to lighter the key is to use the pigment you are lifting don't try for to many levels at once remember it's an ever changing journey not a race. Using this method you can constantly suggest new change with compromise.
A colour client will stay with you as long as your doing a great job so take your time explain what's possible both short term and long ! have fun.
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Rich vibrant even colour root to end |
Take into account any issues during the consultation Grey issues can be resolved so you don't have a thin deposit or hot roots . Remember Grey issues will require some amount of the N natural series in the root formulation the level of peroxide you choose is the other deciding factor.The model above to the right has a Grey issue but as you can see a rich vibrant even colour is possible
As you can see from these last three shots. new shots same model new deeper richer red almost brunette shade. Why? Well as we are dealing with a little more Grey a to vibrant copper could cause it to look thin and with a possible bright roots issue.
A razor cut to create texture and movement no scissors used also added more texture with my claw finger razor's.
I hope that is article is helpful and that it creates thought about lift deposit and target colour. Remember consider the issues and the environment you are working on.
Two more shot of this colour and razor cut above and below all the same model to show that switching shades of red and copper can be done with some patients and consultation.
The change in the above shots in from a solid all over colour to mixed tones of high and low lights to stay lighter addressing the Grey issues.
For link on red hair shades and tones that work with ones skin check out.
http://www.squidoo.com/perfect-red-hair
Mike B2MR:
Mike B2MR:
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