Wedding day hair Consultation practice honesty.

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                                                             A place to share thoughts.

As Stylist's having the honour  to work with a client on her wedding day should be seen as an honour.For it is such a special day in the eyes of any bride to be. But this honour should not be taken lightly or seen a away to make some extra cash!!! Are you good enough are you up for the task and all that can and will face you . Emotion stress family pressures. Creating that perfect look.
As stylist's we all our basic skill and knowledge we then have the things we love that we excel at could be colouring cutting. How often do we think about our weaknesses? How often do we face  the fact that we need to learn new skill or up date what we have?
Wedding hair has to be of those really skilled in the art of dressing hair! Are you?

                 How are you at putting up hair? do you have the skill? The patients. The Creativity?

The skill re leave college and any said academy with are for the most part so basic colouring cutting and Up-do's a safe set to get you bye but i implore you take the time to hone these skills especially if you intend on promoting your self as a wedding up-do specialist and charging accordingly.

I think that as mentioned so many times the initial honest consultation is key to success honest sharing a vision working out a time table for practice sessions colouring if needed a calender to work with.

Stress to your client that the first session is getting a feel for the hair how it moves lies bends folds, yes it does all this , I firmly believe that hair indicates where it wants to lie how the shape forms all we have to do is watch feel.

A wedding a day a celebration possible the one of the biggest days in any Womens life For any couple a huge day life changing a huge commitment the start of a new journey a new chapter.
All this aside for a women it's so much more it's the event the ceremony. The reception. It's fancy dress it's being the center of attention princess for a day!
Taking the social side and relationship side away for a moment to talk about wedding hair, One can not talk about wedding hair without considering the following. Dress. Makeup Headdress. Theme. Size of event,  Location. Number of guests. Budget. Brides expectations.Oh and HAIR!
Being involved in a wedding is very special it can be stressful for a stylist because of all the stress and expectation around the event, so first question can you cope? Do you like doing wedding hair?
If the answer is no! Take my advise. Don't get involved it's not fair , it's about so much more than a big money day!! It's emotional, It's charged with stress. As stylist's we need to be in control cool calm collected.

                                         It's Wedding day:

A day to celebrate if well planned rehearsed short cuts can lead to nightmares!

This is of course written from a hair point of view but the same can follow through planning of this special day.
Planning for hair starts with knowing the date the time frame having a consultation agree some understanding of a look plan a schedule to work towards make sure that you and your stylist are on the same page you feel confident in what they suggest. [don't feel bullied]

First of all the colour for the big day if hair colour is part of the look these days normally it is to some degree. During the consultation discuss vision goals expectation, how many times will we have to colour from this first meeting until the day.
For me High-lights should be done to grow out as naturally as possible tones and shades that work with skin tone eye colour the hair's natural base shade.
If we are talking colour is it all over solid are we thinking highlights?

So to the look
Make sure your stylist likes putting hair up, also get a quote for the big day like all aspects of weddings the price suddenly goes £££££££! I don't agree with this i think as a stylist it's part of your journey with your client! hey I've given them the up do a wedding gift!
So many stylist resort to hot irons curls and those nasty little white flowers! work with what you have consider will it last all day last through all those pictures. weather is also an unknown!
The way the hair is arranged and done on the day of the wedding is an integral part of the perfect look  Remember that all eyes will be upon the bride from the moment she steps from the wedding car and walk to the aisle towards your groom. So it is important that she looks stunning from top to bottom.
As a hairdresser consider how your clients looks! consider the dress, the neck line a look that compliments and makes her look her best!

As stylist we have a huge responsibility here we can make or ruin this day no pressure ha!
So much to consider to help make the bride look and feel her best consider bone structure the dress cut high collar or plunging  in some cases we might even have to advise on a look in a tactful manner if weight is an issue. The only goal is to make the bride look great feel great your the professional  honesty consultation practice all key to success.

Same thing applies when choosing a hairstyle for you to wear on your wedding day but with an extra factor to consider. Aside from the shape of your face, your wedding hair style and your hair accessories should also be in harmony with your wedding dress for the perfect bride’s look.   
[a great deal of expectation on you the stylist].
So for me I love putting hair up i also like classic looks that stand the test of times! but it's not for me to do what i like what I feel comfortable with. It's for me to listen advise maybe do a few different looks until we start to get an idea of the final look, many Brides start off with a preconceived idea born from dreams and in some cases collected from magazines we have to work through this. Practice sessions, honest communication, consultations, commitment to working together to an agreed time frame.

We can also advise the bride to be. On places to research looks, there are a lot of hair style pictures which they can collect and review from fashion magazines and online sites.
Online sites may be more preferable as they have special features that allow you to determine your facial shape. You can choose from model matching your personal facial features and skin tone or you can also upload your photo and try out different hair styles. This may sound extreme but in the end it all helps!
For long hair and a dress with elaborate back details, i would normally try and advise an up do for  it last longer and stands the test of time but again we have to consider the the brides wishes the hair type as well,
The hair may be curled for a more romantic bohemian medieval  look but i would not suggest this on fine hair that takes hours to curl and may well not last the day. It may also be braided with flowers then swept off the neck to be able to move freely and look fresh up to the reception.
For short hair, tiaras would be a wonderful accessory to wear in place of a veil. Other alternative accessories to make short hair stunning for the wedding are dazzling hair pins or a flower clipped to the hair or stuck behind the ear.

So in this instance having decided on an up do, things to practice and consider
First stage build a base so it's firm and feels comfortable at this point note how the colour works with the look if hair, having prepared the hair we now have to play at this point there is no right or wrong it's getting a feel for the hair playing finding that look!

First attempt above ok but not quite the look I am hoping for a little saggy a little tight but loving the high-lights and low lights they work very well together blending really well with the un-coloured area underneath, after a third attempt you should start to get the look soft yet sleek with lots texture shows off the colour and it works with the client our Bride to be! so it's a process your involved in it's not just taking a booking for a wedding without being involved. it not fair to you or the Bride.

So finally how does our bride to be feel this is key are they HAPPY? if not take it down start again or agree to call it a day but book another session.

As a stylist or client if you cannot get the look you want or don't fell comfortable find some one else or try another stylist.
As a stylist or client if the chemistry is not their pull out Wedding days are full of stress do you like that can you cope with it!

As a foot note the above has been fun to put down as an exercise but think on this.

How much more pressure can be on any stylist? Well consider being father to the bride and Stylist and my ex-wife is attending! No pressure!!!!!
We did find the final look but i will post that in the coming days as this is wedding hair week.

After all that practice take it down relax oh and your left with all that volume! and a smile .


One hopes it's a good day all round.
Mike B2MR

Embracing Grey hair issues.

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic's

Grey Hair:
That age old issue! The one topic that is talked about by men and women as this nasty stuff starts to appear. Yes it can happen at any age to any one.Yet society tries to dictate via Media and social barriers that it's unsightly ageing and must Go.
As a hair stylist with many years experience I promote that whilst it can be dealt with it should be embraced .For it's not going away.We should learn to work with it disguise it and not just try and constantly colour and over process the life out of it!  Odd coming from a stylist with a back ground in hair colour and colour education.

Is it really that bad?. To have a little Grey?

Why does society and the media make it such a big deal of it ? Because it's huge business! Just think about all thoseTv and marketing ads.
Should we- can we embrace our Grey hair and still look stylist and feel young at heart? I think yes?

So what is it? Why is it that our hair goes Grey? { husbands, Wives, Kids, work, life?}

Why is going Grey so random? Why are some people lucky enough too, bypass the Grey stage altogether?

LETS TAKE A LOOK.

Around our late fifties natural hair colour fades. As the body’s production of melanin decreases.When melanin production slows down we start to go Grey. When this production stops. The hair that grows in is white silver lacking pigment. The production of melanin is governed by genetic factors. So for the best indication, of when someone’s hair will become white, look to the parents, grand parents. How Grey are they? As this change happens so the texture can change.
It is not a given that it will be just Grey or white sadly as lack of melanin products starts we can go through a stage of salt pepper flat dull lack lister hair. So much to look forward to ha! Also depending on when the process starts ie what age the skin can also seem to change. We folks it called ageing. We can do it with grace and dignity.

Once the hair has gone Grey. Do you decide to take that leap into the world of colour? It’s important to find a colourist that will listen to your issues.Who understands both the technical issues, as well as the physiological ones. This ideally will be some one who can suggest options, a person who can explain alternatives.

Working with the right stylist or colour technician is essential, anyone suggesting camouflage may be well worth listening too.This would suggest working with the Grey. However someone suggesting, grabbing the lightest blonde or deepest brunette. This may not be the best person to work with.

Trying to attain a very light blonde.This can often results in a very harsh yellow undertone being presented. Grey hair still has pigment, In many cases stylist can make the mistake of, using to higher volume of Peroxide. The result of this can be, the introduction of unwanted pigment. It is this over exposure that will present either, unwanted warmth or a yellow undertone.

It is possible to maintain that warm copper shade that you have always loved,that works with your skin tone,complements your eye colour. The art is to introduce some shades to break up the solid so that 4 weekly roots is not an issue.So condition can be maintained. The above is a mix of soft high lights and low lights above shot all same model.

Temporary colours.

These can also be very useful, if you've decided to let nature take its course - but still need a little help.They can, take the yellowish cast out of. White and Grey and increase a more natural look to that salt-and-pepper hair. The advantage in this choice is, no lifting of the hair, so no unwanted warmth from pigment undertones being exposed.

As we get older. It is advisable to Go lighter as it's softer against your skin tone. Sometimes a few high and low-lights are all that’s needed. They can introduce colour and texture to the hair. Whilst working with the Grey and natural tones. They can achieve this without. Totally masking natural tones out completely. This process is less harsh than all over colour, It will allow hair to grow out with less re-growth.

There’s no disputing that. The younger generation can pull off almost any look.

Not always the case with the older clients. It takes some attention to detail to get a style that’s graceful, elegant and sophisticated. Avoid very warm reds, plums and coppers. These tones can be very harsh and brash against older skin tones, they don't tend to cover Grey very well. This is mainly due to lack of natural pigmentation.  {copper can look orange, Plum Pink or mauve}

It's often assumed. Warmer colours are softer as we get older, but this is a myth. More neutral base tones look, more elegant and sophisticated. You can add warmth to the look, with highlights and low-lights after the base has been achieved. One could also disperse, highlights or low lights, working without an all over base colour. The advantage of this is less processing.

Some tips for dealing with Grey Hair.

When you do notice, the odd stray Grey hairs poking their way through, don’t automatically go for, a full-head permanent tint. Often a semi-permanent colour will be sufficient. Failing this, camouflage with a few highlights or low-lights.

At this stage we want to work with the Grey.

Use the lowest chemistry possible, as much as possible,work with what you have,  embrace it. A good stylist or technician should advise a client to. Opt for multi-tonal colour, It looks more natural, the re-growth is less likely to show after a couple of weeks.

Avoid high fashion hair colouring techniques, mutton dressed as lamb, not a good look for any one! Who wants to look cheap. A more glamorous technique is far more attractive – think about the image you want to project. A gorgeous hair colour can look amazing on older woman.The wrong colour or technique can look dreadful.

As stylists we have many things to consider, when dealing with issue of Grey hair. The options available to us are many. The techniques. The formulations. The products. But in the end, it's the consultation and advise we give that is so important. Take the time to listen.

The most important tools we have are. Education. Training. Knowledge. It's these skills that enable us to, make an informed decision to advise as to what might be, The best way to proceed.

The choices could be. Permanent colour. Semi or Demi permanent. Highlights or low lights. You must be able to explain options.

From a clients point of view. There is so much hype on the Tv, the choices are endless. What colour should it be It's a really minefield of. Products and Shades, all claiming that  their home colours can. Change your life. Make you look and feel younger.

That quick fix colour. Especially those 10 minute colours, they can contain more pigment than peroxide, so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit, In some cases going black, they also have a tendency to fade really quickly.

I have found. Blogging is great way to meet and make contacts and net work.

I have recently been, Swapping thoughts and idea's with other professional hairdresser and consultant whilst discussing Grey issues, we shared these thoughts.

Quote:

The whole Grey issue can be a real pain, I get image consultants saying.

 "If you go Grey you should allow the Grey to show through if you are cool toned"

and I have to explain that most people don't get an even blanket of Grey

they have the most horrible patches of it.

Then every hairdresser under the sun seems to use 20 volume to cover Grey

and if they are dark haired it kicks up tons of warmth i try and explain another

approach and way to cover Grey is with 10 volume as it deposits colour into

the white hair but doesn't lift the non white hair - but they seem to think you

are mad when you suggest this.

Formulation For professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.           

Pre-pigment. Sometimes called softener. Having established the natural level of the hair, select a neutral shade. Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes.

After 10 minutes. Mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide. I suggest the lowest volume possible. Apply directly over pre-fill.

Points to Consider. Rule of thumb when mixing a formulation for Grey hair. The formulation should contain as much of, The neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this}  40% Grey 40% N series at desired level.

If you really have to use. High volume of peroxide, you should adjust your formulation to. Deliver more pigment to control. Those being. The warm undertone you are going to expose, instead of standard formulation.

Mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide. { normal formulation 1part colour to 11/2 developer}

If your working with a client who. Has a history of using over the counter colour. Then establish what the product being used was, If possible ask them to bring the package in with them.

In all case a stand test is strongly advised. Some of the colour's now days have an oil and silicone base. this can build up in the hair may effect deposit. So in closing consider, all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.

A little knowledge is dangerous. Total knowledge is power! great products help!

Have a consultation. Get professional advise before making a decision, be well informed. Do not trust what the box says if doing home colour. Get informed have a  professional consultation.

As a stylist. Think about all the issues, advise giving all the options, Including what it will take to maintain this colour, advising on home use retail products.

Thank Mike B2MR

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Comment by Karen Lynch. http://thesalonsuccessclub.ning.com/

Thank you! Every hairdresser should read this! I've been hairdressing about a hundred years (lol) and I am amazed (now I am a client), how many times my tint is not correct. Too warm or transparent. Most hairdressers would say this is basic stuff and that they know it. But I challenge that they don't ... Readers, send this on to others to read! :-)