Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic's
Grey Hair:
That age old issue! The one topic that is talked about by men and women as this nasty stuff starts to appear. Yes it can happen at any age to any one.Yet society tries to dictate via Media and social barriers that it's unsightly ageing and must Go.
As a hair stylist with many years experience I promote that whilst it can be dealt with it should be embraced .For it's not going away.We should learn to work with it disguise it and not just try and constantly colour and over process the life out of it! Odd coming from a stylist with a back ground in hair colour and colour education.
Is it really that bad?. To have a little Grey?
Why does society and the media make it such a big deal of it ? Because it's huge business! Just think about all thoseTv and marketing ads.
Should we- can we embrace our Grey hair and still look stylist and feel young at heart? I think yes?
So what is it? Why is it that our hair goes Grey? { husbands, Wives, Kids, work, life?}
Why is going Grey so random? Why are some people lucky enough too, bypass the Grey stage altogether?
LETS TAKE A LOOK.
Around our late fifties natural hair colour fades. As the body’s production of melanin decreases.When melanin production slows down we start to go Grey. When this production stops. The hair that grows in is white silver lacking pigment. The production of melanin is governed by genetic factors. So for the best indication, of when someone’s hair will become white, look to the parents, grand parents. How Grey are they? As this change happens so the texture can change.
It is not a given that it will be just Grey or white sadly as lack of melanin products starts we can go through a stage of salt pepper flat dull lack lister hair. So much to look forward to ha! Also depending on when the process starts ie what age the skin can also seem to change. We folks it called ageing. We can do it with grace and dignity.
Once the hair has gone Grey. Do you decide to take that leap into the world of colour? It’s important to find a colourist that will listen to your issues.Who understands both the technical issues, as well as the physiological ones. This ideally will be some one who can suggest options, a person who can explain alternatives.
Working with the right stylist or colour technician is essential, anyone suggesting camouflage may be well worth listening too.This would suggest working with the Grey. However someone suggesting, grabbing the lightest blonde or deepest brunette. This may not be the best person to work with.
Trying to attain a very light blonde.This can often results in a very harsh yellow undertone being presented. Grey hair still has pigment, In many cases stylist can make the mistake of, using to higher volume of Peroxide. The result of this can be, the introduction of unwanted pigment. It is this over exposure that will present either, unwanted warmth or a yellow undertone.
It is possible to maintain that warm copper shade that you have always loved,that works with your skin tone,complements your eye colour. The art is to introduce some shades to break up the solid so that 4 weekly roots is not an issue.So condition can be maintained. The above is a mix of soft high lights and low lights above shot all same model.
Temporary colours.
These can also be very useful, if you've decided to let nature take its course - but still need a little help.They can, take the yellowish cast out of. White and Grey and increase a more natural look to that salt-and-pepper hair. The advantage in this choice is, no lifting of the hair, so no unwanted warmth from pigment undertones being exposed.
As we get older. It is advisable to Go lighter as it's softer against your skin tone. Sometimes a few high and low-lights are all that’s needed. They can introduce colour and texture to the hair. Whilst working with the Grey and natural tones. They can achieve this without. Totally masking natural tones out completely. This process is less harsh than all over colour, It will allow hair to grow out with less re-growth.
There’s no disputing that. The younger generation can pull off almost any look.
Not always the case with the older clients. It takes some attention to detail to get a style that’s graceful, elegant and sophisticated. Avoid very warm reds, plums and coppers. These tones can be very harsh and brash against older skin tones, they don't tend to cover Grey very well. This is mainly due to lack of natural pigmentation. {copper can look orange, Plum Pink or mauve}
It's often assumed. Warmer colours are softer as we get older, but this is a myth. More neutral base tones look, more elegant and sophisticated. You can add warmth to the look, with highlights and low-lights after the base has been achieved. One could also disperse, highlights or low lights, working without an all over base colour. The advantage of this is less processing.
Some tips for dealing with Grey Hair.
When you do notice, the odd stray Grey hairs poking their way through, don’t automatically go for, a full-head permanent tint. Often a semi-permanent colour will be sufficient. Failing this, camouflage with a few highlights or low-lights.
At this stage we want to work with the Grey.
Use the lowest chemistry possible, as much as possible,work with what you have, embrace it. A good stylist or technician should advise a client to. Opt for multi-tonal colour, It looks more natural, the re-growth is less likely to show after a couple of weeks.
Avoid high fashion hair colouring techniques, mutton dressed as lamb, not a good look for any one! Who wants to look cheap. A more glamorous technique is far more attractive – think about the image you want to project. A gorgeous hair colour can look amazing on older woman.The wrong colour or technique can look dreadful.
As stylists we have many things to consider, when dealing with issue of Grey hair. The options available to us are many. The techniques. The formulations. The products. But in the end, it's the consultation and advise we give that is so important. Take the time to listen.
The most important tools we have are. Education. Training. Knowledge. It's these skills that enable us to, make an informed decision to advise as to what might be, The best way to proceed.
The choices could be. Permanent colour. Semi or Demi permanent. Highlights or low lights. You must be able to explain options.
From a clients point of view. There is so much hype on the Tv, the choices are endless. What colour should it be It's a really minefield of. Products and Shades, all claiming that their home colours can. Change your life. Make you look and feel younger.
That quick fix colour. Especially those 10 minute colours, they can contain more pigment than peroxide, so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit, In some cases going black, they also have a tendency to fade really quickly.
I have found. Blogging is great way to meet and make contacts and net work.
I have recently been, Swapping thoughts and idea's with other professional hairdresser and consultant whilst discussing Grey issues, we shared these thoughts.
Quote:
The whole Grey issue can be a real pain, I get image consultants saying.
"If you go Grey you should allow the Grey to show through if you are cool toned"
and I have to explain that most people don't get an even blanket of Grey
they have the most horrible patches of it.
Then every hairdresser under the sun seems to use 20 volume to cover Grey
and if they are dark haired it kicks up tons of warmth i try and explain another
approach and way to cover Grey is with 10 volume as it deposits colour into
the white hair but doesn't lift the non white hair - but they seem to think you
are mad when you suggest this.
Formulation For professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.
Pre-pigment. Sometimes called softener. Having established the natural level of the hair, select a neutral shade. Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes.
After 10 minutes. Mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide. I suggest the lowest volume possible. Apply directly over pre-fill.
Points to Consider. Rule of thumb when mixing a formulation for Grey hair. The formulation should contain as much of, The neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this} 40% Grey 40% N series at desired level.
If you really have to use. High volume of peroxide, you should adjust your formulation to. Deliver more pigment to control. Those being. The warm undertone you are going to expose, instead of standard formulation.
Mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide. { normal formulation 1part colour to 11/2 developer}
If your working with a client who. Has a history of using over the counter colour. Then establish what the product being used was, If possible ask them to bring the package in with them.
In all case a stand test is strongly advised. Some of the colour's now days have an oil and silicone base. this can build up in the hair may effect deposit. So in closing consider, all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.
A little knowledge is dangerous. Total knowledge is power! great products help!
Have a consultation. Get professional advise before making a decision, be well informed. Do not trust what the box says if doing home colour. Get informed have a professional consultation.
As a stylist. Think about all the issues, advise giving all the options, Including what it will take to maintain this colour, advising on home use retail products.
Thank Mike B2MR
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Thank you! Every hairdresser should read this! I've been hairdressing about a hundred years (lol) and I am amazed (now I am a client), how many times my tint is not correct. Too warm or transparent. Most hairdressers would say this is basic stuff and that they know it. But I challenge that they don't ... Readers, send this on to others to read! :-)
