Lavender tone in bleach?

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

The question searched was Bleaching pastel lightening powder: 

Lavender tone in bleach hair bleach powder. Does it really control pigment exposed help with lifting or is it just that colour of pale violet to give the illusion os pigment control? Hum!

Personally I think bleaching is bleaching. Toning is toning they do not happen at the same time so why would you apply at the same time ? In all my years of educating I have come across and indeed educated many products .I am still un convinced that the violet blue hue plays a useful role in the lifting process.

Surly if the toner was in the bleach powder the formulation would kill or neutralise the toner pigment.

A simple test for this is Mix up a small amount of permanent hair colour now stir in a little bleach powder. now see what happens!

Opps The bowl of colour the formula you mixed just went black and muddy! Why? The bleach powder killed the colour pigment molecules.

Have you ever had a bowl of colour and bowl of bleach on the same trolley? mixed the bleach a little maybe created a little dust.then notice dark spec's on the surface of the colour formula! yes thats the bleach killing pigment! be careful. It can happen.

Most powder bleach is designed. Not to make dust 'ie' Be heavy enough not to cloud up when being mixed. so we don't breath it in! health and safety at it's best.It's designed not to smell . It's designed to appeal and suggest it's gentle and controlling whilst lifting out the hair's natural pigment.

All good stuff. But the lavender tone does very little to control pigment as it lightens the hair lifting the pigment through it's various levels.

Below list of chemicals found in hair bleach the blue and violet are just for feel good factor. Once the hair has been lifted we then chose the required toner. To address the pigment we have exposed in the lifting process.

Some bleaches even have

Examples:

mixes to a smooth paste, easy monitoring of lightening action, white powder formula, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein and economical application costs.

Hydrolysed  wheat protien could be seen as an added alkaline opening the cuticle even more not that healthy but sounds very natural!

Another description:

Powder Bleach 500g, a premium bleaching powder Discover a new level of lightening performance with Blonde Expert Premium Bleaching Powder with Micro Active Technology, Delivers at least 8 levels of lift, even on a base 1, creamy consistency makes it simple to apply, rich conditioning formula leaves hair glossy and healthy-looking, this is a dust-free powder.

Finally:

Dust Free Bleach 450g. Available in Blue or White. Available in singles or twin packs please use the drop down box to choose. 

Back to the blue or violet what does it do what it's role !!!!! 

Here is a generic list of whats in a product and directions.

Dust free bleach powder with added violet tone for extra pigment control  do not use on scalp above 20 volume peroxide Dust free very gentle will lift 7 to 8 shades max 1 hour depending on developer used.

Ingredients:

potassium persulfate, sodium siicate ,ammonium persulfate,solanum,ethyexyl pelargonate.sodium sterate, then gum rice and potato starch leaf extract  the stach is what we mix to give us a workable paste.

All sounds very clear when you read it like this ! right  the key know how your product performs use it with care. Do not only trust what they claim or the rep tells you ! question re search!

Mike B2MR

Demi permanent colour uses applications

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

What is Demi colour? How does it fit in with permanent and Semi permanent colour?

Demi permanent colour is an opaque hair colour it will generally last about 6 weeks

It main design and application would be for modern Grey coverage and refinement of under tones, also adding richness and shine has a slightly satin finish.

Ideal for tone on tone colouring to create depth and shine.Ideal for use when taking lighter hair darker and no lift is required.

Remember when going darker you only need tone on tone deposit you don't need lift and unwanted warmth!

It will not lighten the hair's natural pigment when mixed correctly with right developer.

It Penetrates the cuticle layer to deposit the new artificial pigment in the Cuticle and to some degree in the Cortex. 

Note: Although not a formulation to lighten the hair over use or constant over lapping will over time lighten the hair slowly, due to the fact that the developer has a low level of peroxide normally less than 5vol. 

As stylist we have many things to consider when dealing with issue of Grey hair.

The options available to us are many the techniques the formulations the products.

The most important tool we have have is knowledge and education this is what enables us to make an informed decision as to what might be the best way to proceed.

The choices should it be permanent or semi or Demi application ? You must be able to explain options from a clients point of view with so much hype on the Tv the choices endless what colour should it be  It really is a minefield of products shades all claiming that  home colours can change your life make you look and feel young.

The quick fix especially those 10 minute colours contain more pigment than peroxide so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit in some cases going black! They also  can have very high levels of alkaline although ammonia free!

Formulation:  For professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.

Pre-pigment sometimes called softener: Having established the natural level of the hair select a neutral shade Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes  mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide suggest the lowest volume possible apply directly over pre-fill a Demi application formula is ideal for this

Points to Consider rule of thumb when mix a formulation for Grey hair the formulation should contain as much of the Neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this} 40% Grey 40% N series at desired level.

If you really have to use high volume of peroxide you can adjust your formulation to deliver more pigment to control the warm undertone you are going to expose.

Instead of standard formulation mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide { normal formulation 1part colour to 1 1/2 developer}

If your working with a client who has a history of using over the counter colour then establish what the product was!

In some case a stand test might be advised. so of the colour's now days have oil and silicone this can build up in the hair may effect deposit.

So in closing consider all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.

To get the very best results consider you options always try and go with the least chemistry possible keep accurate records of formulations and results. This way formulations can be adjusted until perfect balance is reached.

Mike B2MR

Blonde to Brunette

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

How do you go from brunette to blonde? What are the pit falls things to look out for? How blonde can you go?What shade should you expect to achieve from a brunette level 4to5? I raise this questions because skin tone, eye colour. also play a role when switching colour.

Brunette to Blonde  can certainly have it's challenges. Having decided how blonde you want to go you then have to decide on. All over colour or highlights? If your hair is Naturally Brunette level 4 to 5 then the lighter you go, the more issues of warmth will come in to the equation. Also roots or regrowth have to be considered.

Brunette natural lifted 4 levels still very warm.

As you lift your hair the pigment it contains is exposed. So as you lift from natural level the first tone you will see is red. Second level would be red with orange hue. Third level would be orange. Forth level orange yellow. This amount of lift, that being 4 levels can be reached with high lift colour and using the pigment it contains to control tone. Any thing lighter than four levels will require Pre-lightening.

Consider what shade you want. Maybe highlights and low lights would give you a lighter but more natural look. Lots to consider.

I strongly suggest a professional consultation before embarking on this. It's not just slap on the shade indicated on the box.

pre lightened and high lighted

If your hair has been coloured to a Brunette shade and your wanting to go Blonde you really need help you could end up with a hair night mare. many issues when doing this procedure. Be warned you could end up with yellow roots orange mid lengths and red ends!! Consultation honest advise good service from a knowledgeable Styling and technical team.

Some the issues raised, have covered in past blogs and topic's  Lift deposit,Tone, highlighting and Blonde looks feel free to look at back issues or ask question via blog contact.

Considering how light to go can take some thought. Hold light swatches against your skin, hey try wigs you will be amazed how skin colour, eye colour. Changes when you lighten your hair.

Also make up and indeed choice of clothing colour shade and style might have to be thought about.

Good luck be brave but consider it harder to go light and get the right shade than going back to natural or darker!

 How dark? How blonde? much to Consider. Just remember skin colour, eye colour, Pigment and tone.

have your stylist explain this to you.

Mike B2MR

High fashion Red heads, Vibrant coppers,

                                                Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

                                                  Regular postings of fresh new topic's. 

Hot reds, rich coppers always lurking just waiting to jump back into the pages of fashion magazines vibrant alive. Yet as a colour and shade it scares so many. So when celebrity suddenly comes out with a new look heads turn trends are set.    

Is it  a seasonable trend? Reds do go in and out of favor but also the type of shade changes with the seasons. Cool reds or blue reds tend to work better in the autumn and winter months the hot vibrant shades coppers and bright reds are more summer colours.
As we discuss this topic. The model in all cases below is the same model I have showed this to prove that change is possible.

When we think of reds there are so many shades to choose from warm even hot reds true reds! Copper shades all the way through to cool blue Mauve reds.

Reds are the Shade that can be the hardest to get to last keep that rich true colour choosing the correct shade is just the start of the colour equation. To achieve a real rich vibrant colour three main things have to be considered. the clients Natural hair level Ideal shades N5 to N7 the correct level of peroxide and right choice of shade.
Why levels 4N to 7N because these are the best levels to retain red and orange pigment after lift.Level 4 through 6 ideal for reds 6N THROUGH 8N as we lift the copper shades will be more advised.  all good food for thought and consideration.

We also need to consider the formulation for root application. This will also take some consideration namely the percentage of Grey? The amount of Grey dictates the amount of N series required in the formulation . As well as target colour and desired level of peroxide.  the way to assess this is take a section and 2inches long a see what percentage is Grey! if 25% then that would normally be the amount of N series required.  Without N series you may end up with hot roots! After root application colour balance with desired target colour formulation .

Hot or bright roots seems to be a huge problem so please do consider your formulation when dealing with Grey coverage.

The two shots above below are pre root application and then colour balanced final colour.

With these examples of Red I have tried to show that it is possible to change shade in this case red without damaging or causing stress on the hair.

As you can see the different shades chosen are all in the same colour family. Red. Red Copper,  Copper Red. Red brown.  They all work with skin and eye colour of the model.

                                                 

The Key to switching colour and shade is to do it in stages working up and down the shades slowly going from lighter to darker is easy tone on tone.

To go darker to lighter the key is to use the natural pigment  in the hair you are lifting. Don't try for to many levels at once. Remember it's an ever changing journey not a race. Using this method you can constantly suggest new change with compromise. As you can see from the model shots same model different shades.

A colour client will stay with you as long as your doing a great job so take your time explain what's possible both short term and long ! have fun.

Always consider the environment you are working on. This includes all history of of previous colour application. consider and plan colour goals for coming months so change is possible with out over processing and or a poor job!

Have some fun enjoying some warmth for the summer months. Reds can and will tend to fade as can the copper shades . By retaining and working with the natural pigment. Choosing the correct formulation  then recommend good products  and care routine. Good products and sound advise will  keep that rich colour alive and healthy.
Reds fun Vibrant never dull but always a challenge! Mike B2MR

http://www.linkedin.com/groups?homeNewMember=&gid=3162242&trk=eml-grp-sub

This linked in group is starting to grow in interest and discussion.

Blonde hair colouring and Highlights:

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR.  Regular postings of fresh new topic's

                              Badly done Blonde hair: WHY?


Why is it that with so many wonderfully talented stylist's. So many Salons'. So many products both for professional use and indeed the much promoted over the counter wonder hair colours. The question is. Why is there much poorly done over processed badly coloured Blonde hair wondering our streets? What is going on? What is going wrong? Is it our our client are to accepting of looks and standards? I we dropped our standards? Or is bad hair the acceptable norm?
I look around me when out in public and see so many cases of over processed hair. Really badly done highlights and streaks. An example of this can come in many forms but none are a pretty sight ! They certainly do nothing as a walking advertisement for either our industry or any given salon and or stylist.

When things go wrong hot bright roots not left down full hair shaft.

Streaks and Highlights that look bright at the roots but fade away in the mid lengths and ends. Streaks highlights and  lowlights that have been done by bleach pre lightening and then colour deposited on top to create pigment and tone, leaving bright yellow blonde roots and faded flat colour on the rest of the hair shaft caused by. Over processing. Over lifting. lack of porosity in the hair. What was going through the head of a stylist who they attempts to take previously coloured dark hair lighter resulting in Yellow Blonde roots and dark ends!
In so many cases this colour fades away oh so quickly why? because of over processing lack condition so the hair lacks natural moisture. 

Patchy streaks dull blonde. Caused by using wrong shade as a toner. An example of this yellow blonde lift from bleach decolourizer. Then selecting ash as toner a misconception that ash is the correct shade yellow and blue make for a green hue! Violet would be a correct choice.
Of corse not all of this is caused by stylist's in the salon.A considerable amount is home done But none should come from the salon.

Over processed Blonde out of condition no tone.

All hair colouring is addressing issues around colour balancing replacing pigments that the hair is lacking. As we have covered in previous articles  everything stems from the three primary colours that make up hair's natural colour.Our primary colours. Red, Blue, Yellow. We then have secondary colour and so on using ones colour wheel is key to correct colour balancing toning and correction a re-balancing or replacing missing pigments.

These two shots above and below show that with knowledge patients and skill anything is possible.In this instance we are managed to create a Blonde healthy tone with texture and dimension.
It's creating a blonde utilising what we had to start with. By adding shade and tone.

colour corrected with highlights and low lights.

When colouring hair. Having the knowledge and an understanding of the process lift, deposit, neutralizing and utilizing underlying pigment. The chemistry the pigments you have exposed through the lifting process. For lets face it colouring is all about lift and deposit not just choose a colour and put in on any given head.

Most Colour brands will lift a maximum of 4 levels so if you are lifting from a level 6 to 10 you will not get to the target colour with 40 volume peroxide and your colour will always be to gold or yellow! Why? underlying pigment.

When considering the above lift from level 6 to 10 think about where 6 lives on a colour wheel then think about level 10 then consider all the under pigment you will expose as you lift through these levels this will help you decide if your Target is possible.

As soon as you lift level 6 one level you expose red orange, then orange then yellow orange then yellow and last of all pale yellow so four levels of lift will leave you with a yellow base.

So if your trying for a natural blonde it will be to yellow so toning what do we choose? Ash ? Violet? Beige? It's all about the balance of tone corrective Toner and always Condition.

Condition and Tone both key.

Lets go back to level 6 to 10 using 40 volume peroxide. This degree of lift is not possible! Why? Because you have to lift through level 6 then 7,8,9 this is your four level so 10 is not attainable with permanent colour unless you pre-lighten with Bleach decolourizer. Or are skilled enough to know how to manipulate both colour and pigment in formulations? Yes there are ways  I could share with you but hard to just write down warrants explanation. Let me know if your interested.

This process warrants some time so you don't end up with bright over lifted roots!

Before we embark on this we have to consider the head we are working on is it pre-coloured? can we lift out that colour? again what pigment will we expose? what condition is the hair in how porous is it? will it hold colour? strand test it  when wet will it stretch? does it float or sink in water? if it does not float it's over processed and will not hold colour strongly recommend not to pre lighten this hair.

Consultation. Look. Touch. Question. But remember that most people tend to be rather dishonest about their colour history weather it be home exploration or professional also some hair dresser tell clients that colours are semi permanent even when they do both lift and deposit! why because they don't take the time to understand the chemistry of the product they are   using also many of the companies miss lead stylist in the way their colours work!

blonde high lights low lights

Herbal. Ammonia free. Organic. Natural. No lift, No peroxide. ask, ask, ask, then ask again!!  Then ask How can this be ? What no Alkaline! Maybe it's hidden disguised.  Get all the information you can. Be the best you can. Understand the chemistry of the colour and the the pigment available to you in any given shade.

Will the Natural series have enough pigment to hold a natural level when using 20 volume peroxide? Or will it be to warm ? Questions you have to ask your self and consider. What it really attainable with regard to tone and look.

Good luck Mike B2MR
Want more colour information  contact me we can chat. about your colour issues and requirements.

Bleaching.Pre lightening condition .Tone

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic's

Hair Lighteners.  Decolouriser's Bleach, High lift Blonde Tint.

I have just spent a week end in London.Such a buzz a vibrant city full of. Life. Fashion.Style. So many looks hair cuts colours. all quite fun to just sit and people watch. Sadly I have to say there is so much home colouring going on.This creates issues with hot bright roots dull drab ends.

My reason for putting these thoughts in is because of the amount of very poorly done over processed bleached hair i noticed. Breakage on the crown. Poor and patchy lift. Lack of tone why is this?

I noticed one shop assistant who had a really nice beige blonde thats quite sad for a major fashion centre.

So lets look at Bleach and pre lightening. 

Powder Bleach, Oil or Gel.

Before Embarking on lightening hair. We have to understand the chemistry of the product and how the process works, sounds easy and yet it's so easy to get it wrong.

Hair Lighteners come in many forms, they are designed to lighten the natural pigment in the hair they are known as an Alkaliser. During this lifting process warmth from the hair's pigmentation is exposed as it lightens. This warmth has to be controlled,the amount exposed is dependant on the Natural level of the hair and the desired amount of lift. so choice of strength of developer plays a key role.

How do these products work.

These are products that supply Sufficient Alkali to destabilise hydrogen peroxide. When these two elements are mixed together the Hydrogen attacks the pigment in the hair, the lightening process begins.

Depending on the strength of peroxide plus timing will dictate the amount of lift we can achieve,we must also consider the natural hair level as a starting point. 

Hydrogen Peroxide is Stabilised in a bottle with a low Ph around {3.00-3.5} adding the lightener be it {powder or liquid-gel} brings the mixture up to a Ph of around 9.0 triggering oxygen release.

This will be noticed by expansion of your formulation or change in consistency whilst mixing.

Types of Lighteners:

Bleach powder Lighteners. These are for the most part Stronger and faster acting than oil and boosters. Generally used for off scalp Lightening application. { always do skin and stand test} 

Lifting ability depends on. The strength of hydrogen peroxide and will also be dictated to by timing and the natural starting level. Having a clear goal of whats expected, or you are trying to achieve is also very important.

Hydrogen Peroxide comes in different strength's or Volume 10. 20. 30. 40 are standard in the hair industry, 20 volume is advised for all scalp applications. No higher, always consider the use of heat it's not always required or advised.

Lotions Oil -Gel:

These have a smoother consistency. They are formulated to protect the skin/ scalp from the lightening process, again for scalp application 20 volume is the max recommended for safe application.

 {Be advised that adding heat/ dry or steam will change the way these products react: powder bleach can dry out under heat!} 

Ingredients.

The chemical Structure of lighteners are Ammonia. Ammonia hydroxide. Magnesium silicate,and sodium, quite the mix all lighteners have to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide, of a desired strength or Volume to attain results.

Be advised that if the hair has been coloured with, any kind of metallic rinse, colour or stain. It could create a heat reaction this can cause burning so do your home work!

Ask the right questions in the consultation process, if in doubt do a strand test. see article on metallic salts in products. 

When to use lifting products.

A key tool for hair colour correction, but generally they are used when. Other products available cannot give the desired degree of lightening or lift,. As a product with so much choice we often use them for blonde high lights, and streaks as well as all over colour looks. Again it is always key to assess what volume or strength of peroxide to use, often toning will be required after Bleaching. Understanding the lifting process and pigment being exposed is key to success. It's essential to attain required shade or tone, using the wrong toner can cause problems at the back wash!  Remember yellow does not need, ash it needs violet! yellow and Ash makes green,

  

{Remember High lift Tint will only give max 4levels of lift when mixed with 40vol Peroxide} 

Mixing:  

Always. Follow Instructions on each given product.

For lotions, gel oils double amount of Hydrogen peroxide is often called for, lotions and lighteners, booster powders must always be mixed in Sequence,

{note: mixed out of sequence can result in uneven lift!}

Stages of Lightening:

When lifting or lightening hair, it goes through what is known as the 7 stages of lift. It has no limits it can remove all pigment from the hair. If left on or the lifting action is kept going, this would be by re-applying fresh formula on top of any application to keep the  lifting  action going.

Remember the Colour wheel:

{you can see shades in the outer wheel }  

   

The stages are as follows.

Red-Brown. Red. Red-orange. orange-yellow. yellow -orange.

yellow.pale yellow.

The first colour is always the stronger shade!

The deeper the base shade the more stages of lift required its a journey don't rush it.

Advantages:

*lightens hair.

*Can be used for colour Correction.

*Adds Texture.

Disadvantages:

*re-growth needs to be maintained.

*Can damage hair.

*Can cause Skin irritation.

* Hair should be protected from Uv -sun light.

Summing Up:

A very useful Tool for us to have but should be respected and understood. I advocate the best path is the one with the least chemistry possible. Full consultation prior to any chemical service is essential.

If in doubt do a strand test.

 Feel free to post comments ask questions suggest topic's become active in this blog and topic's posted.

Lift. Deposit. Pigment. Shade and tone

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic's
Following on from a week of postings on.
The colour wheel .
The law of color as it relates to hair colouring.
The Ph scale and the chemistry of hair.
It's now time to look developers lift tone deposit.

How they work:

permanent cream colour 20 vol

The dyes lift the hair natural pigment and deposit a new artificial colour at the same time. Working in conjunction with our chosen developer as the lifting process starts. We lighten the hair thus exposing natural lightened pigment as our chosen developer or hydrogen peroxide lifts the hair lighter, so more pigment is exposed this pigment becomes part of our colour equation.
The Colour it self an oxidative dye pigment remains inert until mixed with hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide is made up of two atoms of oxygen and two of hydrogen H/2O/2 available in both cream and liquid form, In most professional salon found as a cream. Hydrogen peroxide is measured by % hairdressing professional refer to it as being measured in volume.[this relates to the volume of gas being released in the chemical reaction]
With all hair colouring the key to success is Formulation, application and timing.choosing the incorrect shade can cause issues as can using the wrong strength of developer. Its a fine balance.

The different strengths and uses are as follows:                  
Uses:
Demi lotion
*5 Vol less no lift only works with the artificial pigment molecules.
*10vol [ 3%]
*Will only expose the pigment at the given level. zero lift from level to another.
* suitable for tone on tone or darker.
* can be used fro toner deposit on pre- lightened hair. i would consider using a demi application in this instance.
*Covering some examples of Grey hair.
*pre-softening  resistant hair.
*Refreshing a tint, again i would consider a demi application for deposit only.

20vol [6%]
*All regular root applications [virgin hair application]
* Will produce one level of lift. That being for example lifting through level 6 exposing pigment expected at a level 7 [ see colour wheel]

30vol[9%]
* 2 to3 levels of lift . That being for example lifting 6 to level 8 exposing pigment at that level.If confused about three level 6 to 8 consider it has to lift through the pigment at level 6 before exposing the pigment and a level 7 and finally through level 8. see chart below count off level 6 to 8?

40vol [12%]
3 to 4 levels of lift,the same rule applies as above.  expecting anything other than a high level lift formulation will not achieve lift from a level 6 to10. amount of lift and pigment exposed will always be an issue in this instance. think 6 to 9!
In some cases a high lift blonde formulation can achieve desired lift this is due to the following.
* For high lift blonde formulation. The mixing ratio normally increase the ratio of hydrogen peroxide in the formulation to 1 part colour to 2 parts developer always check the product you use for directions. they can also in some cases have other chemical properties added to aid in the lift and deposit needed to reach target colour.
*High lift blonde shades. Normally have a more concentrated amount of pigment to work with the pigment exposed in the lifting process depending on choice of shade. They also have a longer process time due to level of peroxide being used to attain this degree of lift.
It is always worth considering lift required and in some cases a bleach lightener / decolourizer may be required to attain desired degree of lift.

So as an example lets look on the chart at undertone orange {orange as we know is made up of red and yellow} So to bring balance to a natural level 7 we would add a corrective Blue Tone! cool ha.
Hydrogen peroxide will only release the oxygen molecule required when in an alkaline state this is why oxidative dye products require the presence of ammonia or some other alkaline some derived  from a natural sauce. [making them herbal]. This returns the hydrogen peroxide to its natural alkaline state and allows it to release oxygen freely.  The ammonia also acts as the engine drawing the colour under the opened cuticle helping it penetrate the cortex where it becomes fully developed.

So to simplify
The artificial colour molecule is drawn into the hair under the partially opened cuticle. the cuticle having been lifted by the ammonia that is now drawing the colour molecule into the cortex.
The Hydrogen peroxide in the formulation is lightening the hairs natural melanin whilst at the same time the oxygen released is swelling the artificial pigment within the cortex and hair shaft trapping it deep inside the hairs structure.
True colours

This would be degrees of Brown or our N series these are designed to have enough artificial pigment to control the pigment exposed at any given level. working with a max of 20vol [6%] higher levels will require consideration of desired target. warm or cool or do you want to neutralise or utilise the pigment exposed at any given level.
We did say this was quite a big topic, it would be a long journey.  
problems that can arise from permanent colour normally due to over processing. Damage to the cuticle it becomes raised cannot retain colouur [P/h issue].
Lack of moisture due to heat styling/exposure to the sun and element such as chlorine .wrong formulation, excessive colouring,

Lack of Grey coverage is normally a formulation and timing issue. poor assessment in the consultation process of amount of Grey so amount of N series required in formulation.
wrong choice of developer, correct development time. wash of to soon dye molecules that have not had time to develope and bond are washed away.   
Hair that is resistant to colour closed cuticle very resistant Grey hair. Pre-soften  with a formulation using either Demi lotion or 10 vol with natural level N series. leave for 20 minutes wash off with cold water, before apply target formulation.

low vol developer ideal for colour balancing

The advantages of permanent colour.
*Can permanently change hair colour.
*will lighten hair deposit colour or tone colour simultaneously.
*100% of Grey or white hair with correct formulation
.*Durability.
*versatility.
*soften or pre pigment hair,can add texture due to a more open cuticle.
Finally in closing this section in the consultation process it should be explained to clients their expected commitment when choosing permanent colour. My advise would always be chose the path with the least chemistry as possible to start with.
 *Roots will need re touching between 4 to 6weeks,
* colour can fade on damaged or over processed hair. colour balancing is key to colour pigment retention.
*Danger of allergic reaction Always do a skin test. prior to any chemical service.
Colour balancing is required to refresh colour that is being re touched, The formulation on the root or re growth will be different to that required for the previously coloured mid lengths and ends both in choice of shade and developed used. 0 lift on pre coloured area!

Take a break digest remember it's a lot to take in digest understand.
Finally.
Herbal or Organic Colour
These have a arrived in recent years with a fan fair of hype marketed as being. Ammonia free, all natural,conditioning.  bla bla bla!  sorry only my opinion but as we have discussed an alkaline has to be present for the colour process to work. So yes you have to consider the level of ammonia in the product you chose or an alternative.

Hair colour still needs driver an engine in most organic or herbal colours the ammonia is replaced with either denatured alcohol. In some cases detergent derived products,they all serve to act as an alkaline.
Denatured alcohol is derived from grain fermentation this process produces alcohol and indeed bio fuel. this acts as the replacement for ammonia but because it's derived from grain it's classed as being Herbal natural. it's your choice as to the organic route or not the process of lift and depsoit is the same as for permanent colour.

We are now flooded with adds marketing on so many Ammonia free products without any hint of the re placement chemistry or what it does!  So why don't we question why do we trust!
This revolution is now already in many of the home colour kits that promote quick fix Ammonia free colour! is this really professional?

The question i ask is simple is it really a new innovation? is it really any less harmful than Ammonia?
Thoughts on new MEA as engine to drive colour instead of Ammonia? MEA is derived from Ethanolamine !  also Denatured Alcohol used as ammonia substitute why does Ammonia get such a bad wrap just because it smells ? .

some useful facts:
Monoethanolamine and Ammonia Fact Sheet


1. Monoethanolamine (MEA) is a stable alkaline liquid.

2. Ammonia is a gas.

3. MEA has a larger molecule than ammonia, which means it is less volatile.

4. MEA does not give off gas when used in hair colour.

5. Ammonia gas is given off when used in hair colour.
6. Ammonia in small doses does not present a health risk.

7. Prolonged exposure of ammonia does present a health risk.

8. Many colours, including Matrix, use ammonia and monoethanolamine.

9. The argument that MEA has not been used long enough to be judged “safe” is completely
untrue, it has been used for at least 30 years in hair colour.

10. There is no proof that ammonia washes off the hair and that MEA does not.

11.Organic colour uses oleic acid in the formulation specifically to neutralise MEA, so even if the
colour was not washed off correctly, the MEA has been neutralised and would have no adverse
effect on the hair.

A Haircolouring Nightmare.

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR
Regular postings of fresh new topic's

As professional stylists we are duty bound to offer. The highest standard of professional skilled knowledge, service, technical ability. To do the very best we can without taking short cuts or rushing and charging accordingly for such service.

So why do so many stylist's over book, take short cuts, over charge and then wonder why they lose clients. make mistakes!
This is a true account with out any names of either salon or people.
However i do thank the client for allowing me to share this rather harrowing experience.
I was recently asked advise by a friend living over sea's about going lighter maybe some nice caramel toffee low lights.
My suggestion was seek professional skilled advise from your stylist. Have a consultation. Discuss your goal and optimum colour target. Be honest about past colouring in this instance quite long hair  mid back level sort of Bra strap. Her natural level would be around level 5. The colour used a rich dark brown around level 4. So long term build up would be a issues. Lots of pigment to exposed with build up of darker shade in the lifting process. The roots will lift Blonde very quickly so apply last with low volume peroxide to blend.
Prolonged use of the dark brown colour would. Indicate long term build up of colour mid length's and ends.
So I suggested that she should ask for strand test. Remove a small amount of hair from the nape area and have it coloured. This would require bleaching but applying from the ends up through mid length finally the root. Once lifted evenly apply toner to even out to desired shade and tone.
Why so you may ask? the ends will lift the slowest and will dictate the end result the mid lengths although coloured less still holding lots pigment. So although it will lift more. It may well throw lots pigment in the lifting process this will tend to be very warm copper or orange.
So armed with all this advise and information off she goes to get her new caramel low lights done.

pre having low lights done coloured level 4

Firstly here is the shot of the hair prior to the colouring.

This colouring was always done as deposit only. No lift .when going tone on tone or darker unless you want to add or increase warmth you do not need lifting levels of hydrogen peroxide.

So any build up is just layers of dark pigment. As stated a rich dark brown it matches her skin colour and hazel eyes. 



So many salons over book, don't allow the time and effort to do a job correctly.When things go wrong they may make excuses about the product, may pretend it looks great. It's how it was supposed to look.
But it's the client who. Has to be excited love this new look get what she wants and requested.
They have trusted us. Sat in the chair patiently. They asked all the right questions .They gave us time to decide on the best course of action to take. Having supposedly considered all options.

After low lights

 So why does this happen?
What went wrong? what do you see? what do you think?

Remember request low lights. Caramel toffee. Remember suggested strand test. Consultation . Remember I suggested lift from ends in  allow that the mid lengths may throw orange and roots would lift really quickly.

So lets look at this. Firstly I was shocked. Sad. Appalled by this poor quality job. Caused by taking short cuts with very little thought given to the process or out come! A rush job.
Firstly the the blonde on the roots to eye level really does not work for her. It sucks the colour from her skin and is just a nothing dull boring shade of blonde.
The mid lengths did not lift as much so formed a colour bar, a very bright copper orange the dark pigment lifted out. Finally the mid lengths and ends they only lifted a little so still look solid and dark very little lift.
There is no way by just applying toner this can or could be fixed.  It was doomed to fail. This was caused by some one being lazy, applying bleach de-colouriser roots to ends and just hoping that it may all lift evenly or at least enough to colour balance it! Hoping that whatever pigments exposed could be evened out with a toner. In doing this the tones made the blonde dull had little effect on the orange and well the ends ! Hum Hoping is not good enough!!
The strand test should have been carried out in advance of the appointment. The strand test shown and discussed with client then the process carried out correctly with a great out come. 
Why oh why do we allow this to happen? Why do we let our selves down . Is it lack of time?  Is it Easy money? well hardly if now you have to fix and re do! Lack caring. I really hope this creates some thought and feed back.
This can be fixed. I have advised the person in question what to do. She is having it re done later in the week . I am hoping she will let me have shots of finished job and i will then post and discuss the out come and process.

Enjoy the topic let me know your thoughts