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Hair Lighteners. Decolouriser's Bleach, High lift Blonde Tint.
I have just spent a week end in London.Such a buzz a vibrant city full of. Life. Fashion.Style. So many looks hair cuts colours. all quite fun to just sit and people watch. Sadly I have to say there is so much home colouring going on.This creates issues with hot bright roots dull drab ends.
My reason for putting these thoughts in is because of the amount of very poorly done over processed bleached hair i noticed. Breakage on the crown. Poor and patchy lift. Lack of tone why is this?
I noticed one shop assistant who had a really nice beige blonde thats quite sad for a major fashion centre.
So lets look at Bleach and pre lightening.
Powder Bleach, Oil or Gel.
Before Embarking on lightening hair. We have to understand the chemistry of the product and how the process works, sounds easy and yet it's so easy to get it wrong.
Hair Lighteners come in many forms, they are designed to lighten the natural pigment in the hair they are known as an Alkaliser. During this lifting process warmth from the hair's pigmentation is exposed as it lightens. This warmth has to be controlled,the amount exposed is dependant on the Natural level of the hair and the desired amount of lift. so choice of strength of developer plays a key role.
How do these products work.
These are products that supply Sufficient Alkali to destabilise hydrogen peroxide. When these two elements are mixed together the Hydrogen attacks the pigment in the hair, the lightening process begins.
Depending on the strength of peroxide plus timing will dictate the amount of lift we can achieve,we must also consider the natural hair level as a starting point.
Hydrogen Peroxide is Stabilised in a bottle with a low Ph around {3.00-3.5} adding the lightener be it {powder or liquid-gel} brings the mixture up to a Ph of around 9.0 triggering oxygen release.
This will be noticed by expansion of your formulation or change in consistency whilst mixing.
Types of Lighteners:
Bleach powder Lighteners. These are for the most part Stronger and faster acting than oil and boosters. Generally used for off scalp Lightening application. { always do skin and stand test}
Lifting ability depends on. The strength of hydrogen peroxide and will also be dictated to by timing and the natural starting level. Having a clear goal of whats expected, or you are trying to achieve is also very important.
Hydrogen Peroxide comes in different strength's or Volume 10. 20. 30. 40 are standard in the hair industry, 20 volume is advised for all scalp applications. No higher, always consider the use of heat it's not always required or advised.
Lotions Oil -Gel:
These have a smoother consistency. They are formulated to protect the skin/ scalp from the lightening process, again for scalp application 20 volume is the max recommended for safe application.
{Be advised that adding heat/ dry or steam will change the way these products react: powder bleach can dry out under heat!}
Ingredients.
The chemical Structure of lighteners are Ammonia. Ammonia hydroxide. Magnesium silicate,and sodium, quite the mix all lighteners have to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide, of a desired strength or Volume to attain results.
Be advised that if the hair has been coloured with, any kind of metallic rinse, colour or stain. It could create a heat reaction this can cause burning so do your home work!
Ask the right questions in the consultation process, if in doubt do a strand test. see article on metallic salts in products.
When to use lifting products.
A key tool for hair colour correction, but generally they are used when. Other products available cannot give the desired degree of lightening or lift,. As a product with so much choice we often use them for blonde high lights, and streaks as well as all over colour looks. Again it is always key to assess what volume or strength of peroxide to use, often toning will be required after Bleaching. Understanding the lifting process and pigment being exposed is key to success. It's essential to attain required shade or tone, using the wrong toner can cause problems at the back wash! Remember yellow does not need, ash it needs violet! yellow and Ash makes green,
{Remember High lift Tint will only give max 4levels of lift when mixed with 40vol Peroxide}
Mixing:
Always. Follow Instructions on each given product.
For lotions, gel oils double amount of Hydrogen peroxide is often called for, lotions and lighteners, booster powders must always be mixed in Sequence,
{note: mixed out of sequence can result in uneven lift!}
Stages of Lightening:
When lifting or lightening hair, it goes through what is known as the 7 stages of lift. It has no limits it can remove all pigment from the hair. If left on or the lifting action is kept going, this would be by re-applying fresh formula on top of any application to keep the lifting action going.
Remember the Colour wheel:
{you can see shades in the outer wheel }
The stages are as follows.
Red-Brown. Red. Red-orange. orange-yellow. yellow -orange.
yellow.pale yellow.
The first colour is always the stronger shade!
The deeper the base shade the more stages of lift required its a journey don't rush it.
Advantages:
*lightens hair.
*Can be used for colour Correction.
*Adds Texture.
Disadvantages:
*re-growth needs to be maintained.
*Can damage hair.
*Can cause Skin irritation.
* Hair should be protected from Uv -sun light.
Summing Up:
A very useful Tool for us to have but should be respected and understood. I advocate the best path is the one with the least chemistry possible. Full consultation prior to any chemical service is essential.
If in doubt do a strand test.
Feel free to post comments ask questions suggest topic's become active in this blog and topic's posted.
