The dark side of hair colour:

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR
 A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products, techniques

If you’re are  like so many not blessed with natural blonde sun kissed hair or maybe your unfortunate enough to be cursed with true natural blonde! Maybe you want to tone down your hair one of the best ways to do this without walking out of the salon looking like you just put a wig on your head is to have Demi-permanent hair color  this form of colour leave the hair looking more natural the deposit offering more tone and dimension but has a translucent look to it.

                                                           The big question Why?

Permanent or Demi deposit:
Permanent hair color both lifts you own hair whilst deposits color into your hair.  If your hair is lighter than your target colour there is no need to “lift” your hair  it will introduce unwanted warmth and may damage it . Demi-permanent hair color is easier on the hair but the deposit is deeper than traditional semi permanent colour.

                                     

Demarcation lines or  re-growth:
A demi-permanent color will help ease the growing out process because it doesn’t create a stark line in contrast with your natural hair color so long as the correct shade is chosen  as it fades, the lines get a little blurred this form of colour blends and really supports the growing out process.

Transitioning:
It helps you to transition to a darker shade if you are unsure about going darker.  In many case a Demi  colour application will last longer than a permanent hair color  due to the fact your not introducing the peroxide and thus lightening part of the colour equation to the hair, it will help the “going darker” process since  hair previously made blonde hair often times needs to be “filled.”  Basically, bleached hair is like a sponge as easily as it soaks up color it loses color.  (Keep in mind that this is also why low light's fade more quickly the more blonde you get in your hair).
A Demi application will help to fill in the gaps so when you do choose to go darker there is something already in the hair for the color molecules to hold on to.
Should you hair be naturally light but you want to try going a shade or a few shades darker the same applies you don't need a permanent formulation.

It's all about change:
It’s an opportunity to have fun.  You can try different tones and different colors without having to worry about it lasting as long as normal hair color.  You can make your hair a “chocolate” brown or you can give it some warmth and make it a “golden brown” or even “auburn.”
Always consider where you natural level sits on a shade chart and how many shades you want to darken it by, also consider that a change in colour will effect skin tone and choice of make up!
A Demi formulation slowly fades out but constant use of this formulation can build up and create a more permanent demarcation line.

Hopefully you enjoy playing with your the darker side! of your hair, that is.  What’s color  do you wish you could achieve with your hair? Or do you like your natural color?
Its all about choice making one and living or maybe embracing the consequences!

Thanks Mike B2MR

Summer time Blonde. Autumn tone down.

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR.

Summer perfect time to be Blonde: But?

Last weeks of summer. The perfect time to consider that blonde look. That sun kissed look we have loved over the summer months whilst enjoying  those long hot summer days.That hot holiday hair colour we long for to match that fun summer tan.

If you have had the need. Have had the desire to brighten up your hair style with a fun blonde look?

now we have to consider the autumn and maybe introducing some low lights so those roots don't get out of hand!

It doesn’t matter how dark or light your natural hair color is or if you have dark or pale skin tone, there is always a shade of blonde hair to suit you.

Blonde is still the most popular hair color choice for most women! Of course if you have already coloured your hair then you will have to take this into consideration when thinking about a shade or discuss with your stylist whats possible.

Here are some fun ideas if you want to let that inner blonde out to play for a while.

If you have shoulder length hair in a brunette tone. Skip going for over-all blonde color. Instead apply some rich caramel highlights throughout your style. Focusing on the crown and where the part lands. Your textured waves combined with the rich highlights will reflect the sunlight and create an eye-catching look. This will maintain you on the road to staying blonde with out over processing and leaving you with some texture and tones in your hair caramel. burnt honey. beige. These can all be added with a Demi formulation so deposit only very little chemistry zero lift on hair that has already been lifted.

Long hair

If your long hair is damaged or dull, purchase a good color protecting shampoo and conditioner to use before, during and after you color your hair. Treating your damaged hair from roots to ends is an important factor in maintaining colored styles. For very long hair highlights are a better form of colour than an all over application and help prevent root-re growth issues.

Finding the right shade

Before you decide on a shade of blonde. Take into consideration your skin tone and eye color. Also consider your current hair color for it certainly plays a part in choices and possible out come of the new colour you are working towards. consider tones that will work for you over the coming months as the tan fades and the sun gets lower. Think of the trees and the colours of the leaf as autumn takes it's hold.

If you currently have bleached blonde hair, you may want to opt for a deeper, richer shade of blonde.This might require putting some pigment back into your hair if bleached very light. If your skin tone is very pale, you may want to keep your blonde shade a bit lighter.

Dark brunettes. A deep honey highlight throughout your style might be best, you are then working with your hairs natural pigment rather than fighting it. Try to avoid bleaching as this just damages your hair.

Choose your colour carefully consider all your options. You may need to seek professional advise. Remember combining a fun new blonde hair color with a new cut can completely change the way you look and feel about yourself and the way others look and see you!

Layering colors

Applying a variety of blonde hair colors throughout your hair on various areas of layering creates a very striking and unique look. If you have a light brown base then highlights to lighten the top sections keeping your layers underneath dark this gives dimension and a great two tones look . This type of coloring looks particularly good on straight, medium-length hair with short or longer bangs.

                                                          

                                                   

A few Examples of Blonde looks:

These are just a few thoughts and ideas for those interested in creating a new blonde hair color try to do something different and new with your blonde hair this season.Blonde hair in small or large doses is a good way to update your appearance and help lift your mood!

Shades of Blonde with texture:

In the Fall or Autumn with a demi application we can go darker with out any ill effects or possibility of damage. 

You can still be Blonde with a touch of controlled tone down less root issue more dimension and texture. Have fun

Mike B2MR

           

Blonde to Brunette

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

How do you go from brunette to blonde? What are the pit falls things to look out for? How blonde can you go?What shade should you expect to achieve from a brunette level 4to5? I raise this questions because skin tone, eye colour. also play a role when switching colour.

Brunette to Blonde  can certainly have it's challenges. Having decided how blonde you want to go you then have to decide on. All over colour or highlights? If your hair is Naturally Brunette level 4 to 5 then the lighter you go, the more issues of warmth will come in to the equation. Also roots or regrowth have to be considered.

Brunette natural lifted 4 levels still very warm.

As you lift your hair the pigment it contains is exposed. So as you lift from natural level the first tone you will see is red. Second level would be red with orange hue. Third level would be orange. Forth level orange yellow. This amount of lift, that being 4 levels can be reached with high lift colour and using the pigment it contains to control tone. Any thing lighter than four levels will require Pre-lightening.

Consider what shade you want. Maybe highlights and low lights would give you a lighter but more natural look. Lots to consider.

I strongly suggest a professional consultation before embarking on this. It's not just slap on the shade indicated on the box.

pre lightened and high lighted

If your hair has been coloured to a Brunette shade and your wanting to go Blonde you really need help you could end up with a hair night mare. many issues when doing this procedure. Be warned you could end up with yellow roots orange mid lengths and red ends!! Consultation honest advise good service from a knowledgeable Styling and technical team.

Some the issues raised, have covered in past blogs and topic's  Lift deposit,Tone, highlighting and Blonde looks feel free to look at back issues or ask question via blog contact.

Considering how light to go can take some thought. Hold light swatches against your skin, hey try wigs you will be amazed how skin colour, eye colour. Changes when you lighten your hair.

Also make up and indeed choice of clothing colour shade and style might have to be thought about.

Good luck be brave but consider it harder to go light and get the right shade than going back to natural or darker!

 How dark? How blonde? much to Consider. Just remember skin colour, eye colour, Pigment and tone.

have your stylist explain this to you.

Mike B2MR

Blonde hIghlights techniques:

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience

As the art of hair colouring is a passion to me. As it is with so many hair colour technician's. True professionals know that. Having both the technical and practical skills are key to being successful.

I would like to try and cover some points that relate to high lighting, with the various products available to us!
It seems as I monitor key search words that the most searched topic's that come up are always relating to issues around blonde hair highlights bleach and tone.The other key search being searches on all topic's related to the colour wheel the law's of colour controlling pigment shade and tone.
So hope that although a topic written on many times this is of help and pushes some buttons regarding process and techniques.

In am fortunate that I get to meet so many salons and so to meet some very talent stylist and colour technicians. I like to watch techniques hang out with technician chatting about techniques and products. Always trying to discover a stylist's favourite. what is the current chosen product. Many use foils some use easy mesh. I use a waxed paper that does not need to be folded and will not allow bleeding as much as some other products might during the process time and as the product expands. A thing that can happen with foil easy mesh or many of the products available to us, especially if to much product applied and or if heat is introduced.

One of the biggest thing I observe with highlight is the neatness of sections the folding of the foils the care taken attention to detail. Those being foil placement formulation application. The patients of many really good colourist is to be admired. But we also have to consider the evenness of the weave desired thick fine ect. The cleanness of section.The application of product.oh and formulation.

We have to remember that when taking section we are not working on a flat surface it's curved so we have to structure out sectioning pattern to accommodate this plain.

However there are always the slack untidy get them in get them out jobs to! consider all the curves as indicated below.

Lets take some time to reflect and review on sectioning and placement :

My question is on sectioning it's hard to write about i wish i had a way to draw on screen any way here goes.

I have in past blogs articles made reference to not being able to cut  a straight line on a curved surface the same is so of highlighting sections!

when we work up the side of the head in nice neat sections we are working on a curve! so it follows if we pull the foil in tight to the section  the middle will be right into the root leaving distance from root at either end! if we pull one end in the other will move out ! its the curve.

The same can be said for working a T section if we start at the hair line and work toward the crown we are working on another curve so the same applies. as we pull the foil in as close as possible only a small part will pull right in a space will be at each end.
The below although for cutting indicates well the sections and angles discussed.

How do we get round this? By working in sections from the hairline in always sectioning to create a flat plain and by brick laying sections staggering them if you do this you will always get to the roots.

take time think about that curve adjust your sections it will make the work of difference to you!

Look at those roots that re-growth consider formulation how you are going to run your colour to deal with root issue. Try not to over lap any bleach! decide on your weave pattern. Discuss with your client the look .Highlights thick streaks fine weave high light and low lights final goal!

How do your Highlights stack up ! maybe you should take a little more time with placement sectioning foil placement!
I speak from experience I used to book highlights back to back i could weave full head in just over half an hour.  Would I do this now 'No' it's not the way to work to do things or get the best results.

Of course still consider re growth application colour balance and formulation but take the time to work on those sections it all about angles as you understand these  section you find you will naturally start to apply them to cutting sections as well it will give you over time greater understanding of shape and weight distribution.

              
If you are interested in the waxed high light papers here is some contact information for you.

Also a useful link for the papers:          http://www.sparenity.com/

                                          Hope these tip helps to some degree.   Mike B2MR

Bleaching.Pre lightening condition .Tone

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic's

Hair Lighteners.  Decolouriser's Bleach, High lift Blonde Tint.

I have just spent a week end in London.Such a buzz a vibrant city full of. Life. Fashion.Style. So many looks hair cuts colours. all quite fun to just sit and people watch. Sadly I have to say there is so much home colouring going on.This creates issues with hot bright roots dull drab ends.

My reason for putting these thoughts in is because of the amount of very poorly done over processed bleached hair i noticed. Breakage on the crown. Poor and patchy lift. Lack of tone why is this?

I noticed one shop assistant who had a really nice beige blonde thats quite sad for a major fashion centre.

So lets look at Bleach and pre lightening. 

Powder Bleach, Oil or Gel.

Before Embarking on lightening hair. We have to understand the chemistry of the product and how the process works, sounds easy and yet it's so easy to get it wrong.

Hair Lighteners come in many forms, they are designed to lighten the natural pigment in the hair they are known as an Alkaliser. During this lifting process warmth from the hair's pigmentation is exposed as it lightens. This warmth has to be controlled,the amount exposed is dependant on the Natural level of the hair and the desired amount of lift. so choice of strength of developer plays a key role.

How do these products work.

These are products that supply Sufficient Alkali to destabilise hydrogen peroxide. When these two elements are mixed together the Hydrogen attacks the pigment in the hair, the lightening process begins.

Depending on the strength of peroxide plus timing will dictate the amount of lift we can achieve,we must also consider the natural hair level as a starting point. 

Hydrogen Peroxide is Stabilised in a bottle with a low Ph around {3.00-3.5} adding the lightener be it {powder or liquid-gel} brings the mixture up to a Ph of around 9.0 triggering oxygen release.

This will be noticed by expansion of your formulation or change in consistency whilst mixing.

Types of Lighteners:

Bleach powder Lighteners. These are for the most part Stronger and faster acting than oil and boosters. Generally used for off scalp Lightening application. { always do skin and stand test} 

Lifting ability depends on. The strength of hydrogen peroxide and will also be dictated to by timing and the natural starting level. Having a clear goal of whats expected, or you are trying to achieve is also very important.

Hydrogen Peroxide comes in different strength's or Volume 10. 20. 30. 40 are standard in the hair industry, 20 volume is advised for all scalp applications. No higher, always consider the use of heat it's not always required or advised.

Lotions Oil -Gel:

These have a smoother consistency. They are formulated to protect the skin/ scalp from the lightening process, again for scalp application 20 volume is the max recommended for safe application.

 {Be advised that adding heat/ dry or steam will change the way these products react: powder bleach can dry out under heat!} 

Ingredients.

The chemical Structure of lighteners are Ammonia. Ammonia hydroxide. Magnesium silicate,and sodium, quite the mix all lighteners have to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide, of a desired strength or Volume to attain results.

Be advised that if the hair has been coloured with, any kind of metallic rinse, colour or stain. It could create a heat reaction this can cause burning so do your home work!

Ask the right questions in the consultation process, if in doubt do a strand test. see article on metallic salts in products. 

When to use lifting products.

A key tool for hair colour correction, but generally they are used when. Other products available cannot give the desired degree of lightening or lift,. As a product with so much choice we often use them for blonde high lights, and streaks as well as all over colour looks. Again it is always key to assess what volume or strength of peroxide to use, often toning will be required after Bleaching. Understanding the lifting process and pigment being exposed is key to success. It's essential to attain required shade or tone, using the wrong toner can cause problems at the back wash!  Remember yellow does not need, ash it needs violet! yellow and Ash makes green,

  

{Remember High lift Tint will only give max 4levels of lift when mixed with 40vol Peroxide} 

Mixing:  

Always. Follow Instructions on each given product.

For lotions, gel oils double amount of Hydrogen peroxide is often called for, lotions and lighteners, booster powders must always be mixed in Sequence,

{note: mixed out of sequence can result in uneven lift!}

Stages of Lightening:

When lifting or lightening hair, it goes through what is known as the 7 stages of lift. It has no limits it can remove all pigment from the hair. If left on or the lifting action is kept going, this would be by re-applying fresh formula on top of any application to keep the  lifting  action going.

Remember the Colour wheel:

{you can see shades in the outer wheel }  

   

The stages are as follows.

Red-Brown. Red. Red-orange. orange-yellow. yellow -orange.

yellow.pale yellow.

The first colour is always the stronger shade!

The deeper the base shade the more stages of lift required its a journey don't rush it.

Advantages:

*lightens hair.

*Can be used for colour Correction.

*Adds Texture.

Disadvantages:

*re-growth needs to be maintained.

*Can damage hair.

*Can cause Skin irritation.

* Hair should be protected from Uv -sun light.

Summing Up:

A very useful Tool for us to have but should be respected and understood. I advocate the best path is the one with the least chemistry possible. Full consultation prior to any chemical service is essential.

If in doubt do a strand test.

 Feel free to post comments ask questions suggest topic's become active in this blog and topic's posted.

Summer time. Highlights Blonde hair colours

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic's

                            Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience 

As the art of hair colouring is a passion to me having both the technical and practical skills is key to be successful.

I would like to try and cover some point with relation to foil high lighting.

In many salons i visit i get to meet some very talent stylist and colour technicians. i like to watch techniques and see what is the chosen product many use foils some use easy mesh i use a waxed paper that does not need to be folded and will not allow bleeding due to colour expansion, a thing that can happen with foil; especially if to much product applied and or if heat is introduced,







The biggest thing observed with highlight is the neatness of sections the folding of the foils the care taken. The patients of many really good colourist is to be admired.

However there are always the slack untidy get them in get them out jobs to!

My question is on sectioning. It's hard topic to write about I wish there was away to draw on screen the way sectioning should work. I will try here goes.

I have in past blogs articles made reference to not being able to cut  a straight line on a curved surface the same is so of highlighting sections!

when we work up the side of the head in nice neat sections we are working on a curve! so it follows if we pull the foil in tight to the section  the middle will be right into the root leaving distance from root at either end! if we pull one end in the other will move out ! its the curve.

The same can be said for working a T section if we start at the hair line and work toward the crown we are working on another curve so the same applies. as we pull the foil in as close as possible only a small part will pull right in a space will be at each end.

How do we get round this!?  By working in sections from the hairline in always sectioning to create a flat plain and by brick laying sections staggering them if you do this you will always get to the roots.

take time think about that curve adjust your sections it will make the work of difference to you!

Of course still consider re growth application colour balance and formulation but take the time to work on those sections. It's all about angles as you understand these  section you find you will naturally start to apply them to cutting sections as well it will give you over time greater understanding of shape and weight distribution.

sharing thoughts

 Look around when out in public and see so many cases of over processed hair you see. Badly done highlights and streaks examples of this can come in many forms.

Streaks and Highlights that look bright at the roots but fade away in the mid lengths and ends. Streaks highlights low lights that have been done with bleach pre lightening and then colour deposited on top to create pigment and tone, in so many cases this colour fades away oh so quickly, leaving bright yellow blonde roots and faded flat colour on the rest of the hair shaft caused by over processing over lifting lack of porosity in the hair.

Patchy streaks dull blonde caused by using wrong shade as a toner. An example of this yellow blonde lift from bleach decolourizer, then  selecting ash as toner a misconception that ash is the correct shade yellow and blue make for a green hue! Violet would be a correct choice.

colour corrected with highlights and low lights.

All hair colouring is addressing issues around colour balancing replacing pigments that the hair is lacking. Everything stems from the three primary colours that make up hair colour Red, Blue, Yellow. We then have secondary colour and so on using ones colour wheel is key to correct colour balancing toning and correction a re-balancing or replacing missing pigments.







When colouring hair. Having the knowledge and an understanding of the process lift, deposit, neutralizing and utilizing underlying pigment. The chemistry and pigments you have exposed through the lifting process for colouring is all about lift and deposit not just choose a colour and put in on any given head.

Most Colour brands will lift a maximum of 4 levels so if you are lifting from a level 6 to 10 you will not get to the target colour with 40 volume peroxide and your colour will always be to gold or yellow! Why? underlying pigment.

When considering the above lift from level 6 to 10 think about where 6 lives on a colour wheel then think about level 10 then consider all the under pigment you will expose as you lift through these levels this will help you decide if your Target is possible.

As soon as you lift level 6 one level you expose red orange, then orange then yellow orange then yellow and last of all pale yellow so four levels of lift will leave you with a yellow base.

So if your trying for a natural blonde it will be to yellow so toning what do we choose? Ash ? Violet? Beige?

blonde high lights low lights

Lets go back to level 6 to 10 and 40 volume peroxide this degree of lift is not possible why because you have to lift through level 6 then 7,8,9 this is your four level so 10 is not attainable with permanent colour unless you pre-lighten with Bleach decolourizer,

This process warrants some time so you don't end up with bright over lifted roots!

Before we embark on this we have to consider the head we are working on is it pre-coloured? can we lift out that colour? again what pigment will we expose? what condition is the hair in how porous is it? will it hold colour? strand test it  when wet will it stretch? does it float or sink in water? if it does not float it's over processed and will not hold colour strongly recommend not to pre lighten this hair.

Consultation look touch question. but remember that most people tend to be rather dishonest about their colour history weather it be home exploration or professional also some hair dresser tell clients that colours are semi permanent even when they do both lift and deposit! why because they don't take the time to understand the chemistry of the product they are using also many of the companies miss lead stylist in the way their colours work!

Herbal, Ammonia free, no lift, no peroxide. ask, ask, ask, then ask again!! get all the information you can be the best you can understand the chemistry of the colour and the the pigment available to you in any given shade.

Will the Natural series have enough pigment to hold a natural level when using 20 volume peroxide or will it be to warm ? Questions you have to ask your self and consider,

Good luck Mike B2MR

Spring time to think Blonde

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR.
regular postings of fresh new topic's http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

It is my goal to create a platform that over time will become a place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

Spring perfect time to think Blonde


Its almost Spring. The perfect time to consider going blonde, having that sun kissed look whilst wishing for those long hot summer days.That hot holiday hair colour we long for to match that fun summer tan.
If you feel the need have the desire to brighten up your hair style with a fun new blonde look?
It doesn’t matter how dark or light your natural hair color is or if you have dark or pale skin tone, there is always a shade of blonde hair to suit you.
Blonde is still the most popular hair color choice for most women! Of course if you have already coloured your hair then you will have to take this into consideration when thinking about a shade or discuss with your stylist whats possible.
Here are some fun ideas if you want to let that inner blonde out to play for a while.

If you have shoulder length hair in a brunette tone. Skip going for over-all blonde color. Instead apply some rich caramel highlights throughout your style, focusing on the crown and where the part lands. Your textured waves combined with the rich highlights will reflect the sunlight and create an eye-catching look. This will start you on the road to blonde with out over processing.
Long hair
If your long hair is damaged or dull, purchase a good color protecting shampoo and conditioner to use before, during and after you color your hair. Treating your damaged hair from roots to ends is an important factor in maintaining colored styles. For very long hair highlights are a better form of colour than an all over application and help prevent root-re growth issues,

Finding the right shade
Before you decide on a shade of blonde. Take into consideration your skin tone and eye color. Also consider your current hair color for it certainly plays a part in choices and possible out come of the new colour you are working towards
If you currently have bleached blonde hair, you may want to opt for a deeper, richer shade of blonde.This might require putting some pigment back into your hair if bleached very light. If your skin tone is very pale, you may want to keep your blonde shade a bit lighter.

Dark brunettes. A deep honey highlight throughout your style might be best, you are then working with your hairs natural pigment rather than fighting it, try to avoid bleaching as this just damages your hair.
Choose your colour carefully consider all your options. You may need to seek professional advise. Remember combining a fun new blonde hair color with a new cut can completely change the way you look and feel about yourself and the way others look and see you!
Layering colors
Applying a variety of blonde hair colors throughout your hair on various areas of layering creates a very striking and unique look. If you have a light brown base then highlights to lighten the top sections keeping your layers underneath dark this gives dimension and a great two tones look . This type of coloring looks particularly good on straight, medium-length hair with short or longer bangs.
                                                          
                                                   

A few Examples of Blonde looks:



These are just a few thoughts and ideas for those interested in creating a new blonde hair color try to do something different and new with your blonde hair this season.Blonde hair in small or large doses is a good way to update your appearance and help lift your mood!


In the fall, autumn with a demi application we can go darker with out any ill effects or possibility of damage. 
Mike B2MR