Transition from solid colour to highlights

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

This is a topic that raises questions all the time by clients,  women friends and stylists.  That question is on  the topic of moving away from a solid colour to Highlights low lights or multi tonal slowly going lighter.In many cases to work with some percentage of grey hair or change in skin tone
Indeed growing out a build up of home or over the counter colour and the constant battle with Grey roots or re growth.
The same model has been used though out this colour journey  from solid to lighter and more multi tonal.

Above a shot of a perfectly done colour roots formulation for 30% grey coverage colour balanced with a nice shade of Copper beige looks healthy and in great condition.
The issue roots every 4 to 5 weeks and the fading issue that happens over time even with the best of colour formulations.

It was decided to try and attain a lighter and multi toned colour that would allow the Grey to blend and grow out longer in between colouring.

Above: As stated same model same head we left the colour to grow out for as long as we could 7 to 8 weeks this models hair grows very quickly.
We introduced some highlights lifting with bleach starting with the ends and mid lengths and working our way in .Why you may ask? Well the end s and mid lengths had been coloured before this pigment had to be lifted out to a workable shade then the roots lifted to match in,.The original  shade was also highlighted back in to hair ,Some of the Grey was just left.
The above result was after one correction or re balance session.

This past week end another 7 weeks on it was time to do the colour again adjusting the ratio of highlights and low lights.the shot above was pre colouring.As you can see although grown out the shade and depth of tone held well and the grey issue is less apparent.

Above colour taken in bright sun shine but one can see the multi tones an dhow we have lightened the hair but still kept the warmth and copper tones.the under section is still solid and done with a demi formulation. Colours used
Roots Goldwell 7KG 10 vol colour balanced mid lengths end with colourance.
Highlights 10 vol bleach roots - re growth  20 vol mid lengths ends. [next time roots only on carry through]
lanza colour 6RB demi formulation for darker low light deposit only root to end and under section.

Finally happy model liking the lighter colour and less root issue . We will now be looking to high light and low light every 10 to 12 weeks. so by working with our client she is happy has a new look that lasts longer .
She is happy that although the technique cost more to do she goes longer in between services but the condition feels better and she loves the change.
Taken October 1st in the Uk with 30 degrees of sunshine and blue sky a record heat breaking week end.
Working with your client talking her or him through options. Explaining that doing it in stages over a few visits and a certain time period will create best results. Taking a little colour journey and adventure together.
Of course should she ever want to re visit the solid darker richer shade then a simple application of a Demi formulation would do the trick with over stressing the hair or compromising condition.

Low light multi tonal colours

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Regular postings of fresh new topic's .                                      

Low Light Colour a technique of going from dark to light adding multi shades:

How can one create this look?  Well firstly I have to state it is dependent on the history of the hair that is being considered for this look.  So it's back to that consultation or being honest with yourself if doing it as a home project.

Their are many formulations that one can explore and experiment with but one has to consider both target colour and effect required, the tone and shade being used.

Lets use a example of level 6 Natural Dark Blonde. One with previous colour history. One with virgin un coloured  or never processed hair.
The Look tends to be a graduated hair cut works well on longer hair.

In the event of previously coloured hair one would expect to see light ends dark roots, for the sake of this lets not go to complicated. So we will presume grown out Highlights and low lights. This look really does create a grown out look going from darker to lighter.
This first example is creating a lighter brighter look lifted roots slightly lighter mid section very bright ends. Ombre technique.
One formulation that will take care of any unwanted shade or pigment from previous colour would be
to highlight maybe slightly thicker than finer.
I would suggest using on our pre-coloured hair  three different levels of Bleach decolouriser fading them into each other. How? You may ask.
Well weave out your highlights to desired thickness having mixed three bowls of bleach.

One with 10 volume peroxide 1part powder to 2 parts peroxide normally makes good consistency but follow directions.                                
2nd bowl  20 volume as above mix    
3rd Bowl 30 volume  as above mix
I would advise using different coloured bowls or mark each one so not to use wrong formulation.

Ready to go. Weave your streak place on foil, easy mesh, paper, what ever you use. Now paste the 10 volume formulation on the roots and as far out as you like, next paste the 20 vol formulation on the mid lengths again as far as you want. Finally 20 vol on the ends.
You have to keep an eye on this as it lifts. You may have to pull some out before your finished, but that's ok. Once all done you have to decide on the tone that you want to blend them to.
Two thing are key to this. Don't do the whole head. Make sure that the lift you get is even down each section and all sections have the same lift.
Think about the pigment you have exposed think about the tone you want use the colour wheel.
One can do the same with any shade  desired. If going darker you will not leave lift only a Demi formulation.
If wanting lighter or richer more vibrant some degree of lift will be required.The success of this again will be dependent on previous history.
But again play with both colour and level of peroxide. Just remember as you up the amount of lift with higher volume of peroxide the more pigment you bring out from the hair.
The skill is bringing out as much pigment as possible without removing it by over lifting! yes a balancing act. over lift and you are losing that extra bright colour you might want. 
example level 6 with formulation using 20 volume peroxide will expose these pigments
*6 level red orange.
*7 orange
*8 orange yellow
If you are trying for a rich red using over 20 volume would bring out unwanted yellow pigment changing your target colour!

More options:
Now lets look at virgin hair I don't think in this instance one would need to use bleach but again personal choice here is my choice and suggestion.
Remember we are starting of with a level 6 natural dark blonde. Things we have to consider when choosing  our formulation. What pigment will come in to play How will it effect our choice of colour.
Using the same highlighting technique as above. Lets play with both shade and lift.

So my choice would be 8A or 9A .why? Well it's an Ash base so will control any unwanted warmth that being [ orange ] Lets use 10 volume on the roots this will lift one level but will expose warmth even with one level of lift. Mid section 20 volume two levels of lift. Ends 30 volume on the ends. Remember your timing and your formulations.
One can also as below mix high lights and low lights some lift with a bleach decolouriser, some  permanent colour,some tone on tone Demi deposit so many options and so much choice.

You could use 20. 30, 40, if you want it lighter. But more lift will bring out more orange. You can also slightly over lap each shade, because although different levels of peroxide all in the same colour camp so no banding.



Take you time think through both. Timing, application, formulation, use the tools available to you. Colour chart, colour wheel. Have some creative fun both with the cut and the colouring technique.
You too could look like a movie star with this technique that allows for stylish casual sophistication.

With this type of colour base you could easily add multi shades Reds coppers with low volume of developer. Maybe some darker shades for added dimension using only a Demi deposit formulation.
remember by adding darker shades you make the lighter shade become the streak. This adds lots texture and dimension without having to over lift the hair.
If adding red or copper one would  use a formulation on the roots with either 10 or 20 volume developer and then use a Demi application on the pre lightened area. So two different formulation on each weave. 
have fun but always consider target colour and look and also the environment previous history to get the best results. Mike B2MR

Blonde hIghlights techniques:

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Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience

As the art of hair colouring is a passion to me. As it is with so many hair colour technician's. True professionals know that. Having both the technical and practical skills are key to being successful.

I would like to try and cover some points that relate to high lighting, with the various products available to us!
It seems as I monitor key search words that the most searched topic's that come up are always relating to issues around blonde hair highlights bleach and tone.The other key search being searches on all topic's related to the colour wheel the law's of colour controlling pigment shade and tone.
So hope that although a topic written on many times this is of help and pushes some buttons regarding process and techniques.

In am fortunate that I get to meet so many salons and so to meet some very talent stylist and colour technicians. I like to watch techniques hang out with technician chatting about techniques and products. Always trying to discover a stylist's favourite. what is the current chosen product. Many use foils some use easy mesh. I use a waxed paper that does not need to be folded and will not allow bleeding as much as some other products might during the process time and as the product expands. A thing that can happen with foil easy mesh or many of the products available to us, especially if to much product applied and or if heat is introduced.

One of the biggest thing I observe with highlight is the neatness of sections the folding of the foils the care taken attention to detail. Those being foil placement formulation application. The patients of many really good colourist is to be admired. But we also have to consider the evenness of the weave desired thick fine ect. The cleanness of section.The application of product.oh and formulation.

We have to remember that when taking section we are not working on a flat surface it's curved so we have to structure out sectioning pattern to accommodate this plain.

However there are always the slack untidy get them in get them out jobs to! consider all the curves as indicated below.

Lets take some time to reflect and review on sectioning and placement :

My question is on sectioning it's hard to write about i wish i had a way to draw on screen any way here goes.

I have in past blogs articles made reference to not being able to cut  a straight line on a curved surface the same is so of highlighting sections!

when we work up the side of the head in nice neat sections we are working on a curve! so it follows if we pull the foil in tight to the section  the middle will be right into the root leaving distance from root at either end! if we pull one end in the other will move out ! its the curve.

The same can be said for working a T section if we start at the hair line and work toward the crown we are working on another curve so the same applies. as we pull the foil in as close as possible only a small part will pull right in a space will be at each end.
The below although for cutting indicates well the sections and angles discussed.

How do we get round this? By working in sections from the hairline in always sectioning to create a flat plain and by brick laying sections staggering them if you do this you will always get to the roots.

take time think about that curve adjust your sections it will make the work of difference to you!

Look at those roots that re-growth consider formulation how you are going to run your colour to deal with root issue. Try not to over lap any bleach! decide on your weave pattern. Discuss with your client the look .Highlights thick streaks fine weave high light and low lights final goal!

How do your Highlights stack up ! maybe you should take a little more time with placement sectioning foil placement!
I speak from experience I used to book highlights back to back i could weave full head in just over half an hour.  Would I do this now 'No' it's not the way to work to do things or get the best results.

Of course still consider re growth application colour balance and formulation but take the time to work on those sections it all about angles as you understand these  section you find you will naturally start to apply them to cutting sections as well it will give you over time greater understanding of shape and weight distribution.

              
If you are interested in the waxed high light papers here is some contact information for you.

Also a useful link for the papers:          http://www.sparenity.com/

                                          Hope these tip helps to some degree.   Mike B2MR

High lights Blonde hair

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR
Regular postings of fresh new topic's

I have chosen this topic because I'm sure that so many have either had experience of it or thought on it as a subject. keeping on top of those roots that regrowth issue. That cycle of the more you colour the more you need to the eventual out come over processing.

Firstly Lets look a Highlights. Originally a form of colour that should work in conjunction with ones natural base shade . As we know over time and because of a love for that Blonde Highlight look. If the process is over done then roots on a regular bases can become an issue. The art is the balance between natural level and desired colour and tone. I would always suggest when doing highlights to try and keep a natural look one should always ask for a balance of high lights and low lights. ie. more than one tone maybe three shade plus natural bases shade.

Sometime when highlights are done on a regular bases or over lapped the look starts to become more solid. If this is the case talk with you stylist start to introduce low lights to regain a balance.
The art is also the sections we take. The weave we make how and where we apply the product. We have to only apply the colour and the formulation where it's needed. our choice of sectioning is key to getting as close to the roots as possible.We should never forget we are working on a curved surface and have to section accordingly for the best possible results.

This situation sadly arises when a stylist does not advise on over doing or over processing. The nightmare can start when the advise given is. Oh you have so much colour now. Why don't we just do all over colour!
So many things to consider take into account. So lets take a look at our options.

Firstly when going from Highlights to all over we are going from a weave to solid. So on first application one has to consider. Not just root application, but also the previous re growth so not to have banding issues.not to over lap and to try and mix colours and shades that work and blend in.

Then there is the issue of lifting the roots and them being lifted to much or not enough. either to yellow or to bright then having to tone.

Colour balancing shade and tone. Not just the newly lifted roots. but all of the hair root to tip not easy.
If going to all over colour you will get a solid root starting to show within three weeks. Normally it will need attention every six weeks.

I know some one who just went through this process from Highlights to all over sadly as soon as it was done she hated it .
The stylist Tried to put low lights in these went copper orange, a night mare. How could this happen?
Well when putting low lights back into lifted hair one should use a Demi formulation colour pigment deposit only! Not a permanent formulation with peroxide in it. Lift is not required.
The reason the low lights went orange in the above case was using a permanent formulation on already lifted hair . Not considering the fact that the hair is lacking pigment no lift. The requirement here was natural or neutral shades to be reintroduced. As you can see it is possible to put a mixture of formulations into the hair to get both lift and deposit Blonde with shade and tone.

So unless you feel really comfortable with your stylist both the advise given and skill level be very careful before switching from a highlight technique to all over colour.
MikeB2MR

Spring time to think Blonde

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR.
regular postings of fresh new topic's http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

It is my goal to create a platform that over time will become a place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

Spring perfect time to think Blonde


Its almost Spring. The perfect time to consider going blonde, having that sun kissed look whilst wishing for those long hot summer days.That hot holiday hair colour we long for to match that fun summer tan.
If you feel the need have the desire to brighten up your hair style with a fun new blonde look?
It doesn’t matter how dark or light your natural hair color is or if you have dark or pale skin tone, there is always a shade of blonde hair to suit you.
Blonde is still the most popular hair color choice for most women! Of course if you have already coloured your hair then you will have to take this into consideration when thinking about a shade or discuss with your stylist whats possible.
Here are some fun ideas if you want to let that inner blonde out to play for a while.

If you have shoulder length hair in a brunette tone. Skip going for over-all blonde color. Instead apply some rich caramel highlights throughout your style, focusing on the crown and where the part lands. Your textured waves combined with the rich highlights will reflect the sunlight and create an eye-catching look. This will start you on the road to blonde with out over processing.
Long hair
If your long hair is damaged or dull, purchase a good color protecting shampoo and conditioner to use before, during and after you color your hair. Treating your damaged hair from roots to ends is an important factor in maintaining colored styles. For very long hair highlights are a better form of colour than an all over application and help prevent root-re growth issues,

Finding the right shade
Before you decide on a shade of blonde. Take into consideration your skin tone and eye color. Also consider your current hair color for it certainly plays a part in choices and possible out come of the new colour you are working towards
If you currently have bleached blonde hair, you may want to opt for a deeper, richer shade of blonde.This might require putting some pigment back into your hair if bleached very light. If your skin tone is very pale, you may want to keep your blonde shade a bit lighter.

Dark brunettes. A deep honey highlight throughout your style might be best, you are then working with your hairs natural pigment rather than fighting it, try to avoid bleaching as this just damages your hair.
Choose your colour carefully consider all your options. You may need to seek professional advise. Remember combining a fun new blonde hair color with a new cut can completely change the way you look and feel about yourself and the way others look and see you!
Layering colors
Applying a variety of blonde hair colors throughout your hair on various areas of layering creates a very striking and unique look. If you have a light brown base then highlights to lighten the top sections keeping your layers underneath dark this gives dimension and a great two tones look . This type of coloring looks particularly good on straight, medium-length hair with short or longer bangs.
                                                          
                                                   

A few Examples of Blonde looks:



These are just a few thoughts and ideas for those interested in creating a new blonde hair color try to do something different and new with your blonde hair this season.Blonde hair in small or large doses is a good way to update your appearance and help lift your mood!


In the fall, autumn with a demi application we can go darker with out any ill effects or possibility of damage. 
Mike B2MR