Transition from solid colour to highlights

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

This is a topic that raises questions all the time by clients,  women friends and stylists.  That question is on  the topic of moving away from a solid colour to Highlights low lights or multi tonal slowly going lighter.In many cases to work with some percentage of grey hair or change in skin tone
Indeed growing out a build up of home or over the counter colour and the constant battle with Grey roots or re growth.
The same model has been used though out this colour journey  from solid to lighter and more multi tonal.

Above a shot of a perfectly done colour roots formulation for 30% grey coverage colour balanced with a nice shade of Copper beige looks healthy and in great condition.
The issue roots every 4 to 5 weeks and the fading issue that happens over time even with the best of colour formulations.

It was decided to try and attain a lighter and multi toned colour that would allow the Grey to blend and grow out longer in between colouring.

Above: As stated same model same head we left the colour to grow out for as long as we could 7 to 8 weeks this models hair grows very quickly.
We introduced some highlights lifting with bleach starting with the ends and mid lengths and working our way in .Why you may ask? Well the end s and mid lengths had been coloured before this pigment had to be lifted out to a workable shade then the roots lifted to match in,.The original  shade was also highlighted back in to hair ,Some of the Grey was just left.
The above result was after one correction or re balance session.

This past week end another 7 weeks on it was time to do the colour again adjusting the ratio of highlights and low lights.the shot above was pre colouring.As you can see although grown out the shade and depth of tone held well and the grey issue is less apparent.

Above colour taken in bright sun shine but one can see the multi tones an dhow we have lightened the hair but still kept the warmth and copper tones.the under section is still solid and done with a demi formulation. Colours used
Roots Goldwell 7KG 10 vol colour balanced mid lengths end with colourance.
Highlights 10 vol bleach roots - re growth  20 vol mid lengths ends. [next time roots only on carry through]
lanza colour 6RB demi formulation for darker low light deposit only root to end and under section.

Finally happy model liking the lighter colour and less root issue . We will now be looking to high light and low light every 10 to 12 weeks. so by working with our client she is happy has a new look that lasts longer .
She is happy that although the technique cost more to do she goes longer in between services but the condition feels better and she loves the change.
Taken October 1st in the Uk with 30 degrees of sunshine and blue sky a record heat breaking week end.
Working with your client talking her or him through options. Explaining that doing it in stages over a few visits and a certain time period will create best results. Taking a little colour journey and adventure together.
Of course should she ever want to re visit the solid darker richer shade then a simple application of a Demi formulation would do the trick with over stressing the hair or compromising condition.

Blonde hair colouring and Highlights:

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR.  Regular postings of fresh new topic's

                              Badly done Blonde hair: WHY?


Why is it that with so many wonderfully talented stylist's. So many Salons'. So many products both for professional use and indeed the much promoted over the counter wonder hair colours. The question is. Why is there much poorly done over processed badly coloured Blonde hair wondering our streets? What is going on? What is going wrong? Is it our our client are to accepting of looks and standards? I we dropped our standards? Or is bad hair the acceptable norm?
I look around me when out in public and see so many cases of over processed hair. Really badly done highlights and streaks. An example of this can come in many forms but none are a pretty sight ! They certainly do nothing as a walking advertisement for either our industry or any given salon and or stylist.

When things go wrong hot bright roots not left down full hair shaft.

Streaks and Highlights that look bright at the roots but fade away in the mid lengths and ends. Streaks highlights and  lowlights that have been done by bleach pre lightening and then colour deposited on top to create pigment and tone, leaving bright yellow blonde roots and faded flat colour on the rest of the hair shaft caused by. Over processing. Over lifting. lack of porosity in the hair. What was going through the head of a stylist who they attempts to take previously coloured dark hair lighter resulting in Yellow Blonde roots and dark ends!
In so many cases this colour fades away oh so quickly why? because of over processing lack condition so the hair lacks natural moisture. 

Patchy streaks dull blonde. Caused by using wrong shade as a toner. An example of this yellow blonde lift from bleach decolourizer. Then selecting ash as toner a misconception that ash is the correct shade yellow and blue make for a green hue! Violet would be a correct choice.
Of corse not all of this is caused by stylist's in the salon.A considerable amount is home done But none should come from the salon.

Over processed Blonde out of condition no tone.

All hair colouring is addressing issues around colour balancing replacing pigments that the hair is lacking. As we have covered in previous articles  everything stems from the three primary colours that make up hair's natural colour.Our primary colours. Red, Blue, Yellow. We then have secondary colour and so on using ones colour wheel is key to correct colour balancing toning and correction a re-balancing or replacing missing pigments.

These two shots above and below show that with knowledge patients and skill anything is possible.In this instance we are managed to create a Blonde healthy tone with texture and dimension.
It's creating a blonde utilising what we had to start with. By adding shade and tone.

colour corrected with highlights and low lights.

When colouring hair. Having the knowledge and an understanding of the process lift, deposit, neutralizing and utilizing underlying pigment. The chemistry the pigments you have exposed through the lifting process. For lets face it colouring is all about lift and deposit not just choose a colour and put in on any given head.

Most Colour brands will lift a maximum of 4 levels so if you are lifting from a level 6 to 10 you will not get to the target colour with 40 volume peroxide and your colour will always be to gold or yellow! Why? underlying pigment.

When considering the above lift from level 6 to 10 think about where 6 lives on a colour wheel then think about level 10 then consider all the under pigment you will expose as you lift through these levels this will help you decide if your Target is possible.

As soon as you lift level 6 one level you expose red orange, then orange then yellow orange then yellow and last of all pale yellow so four levels of lift will leave you with a yellow base.

So if your trying for a natural blonde it will be to yellow so toning what do we choose? Ash ? Violet? Beige? It's all about the balance of tone corrective Toner and always Condition.

Condition and Tone both key.

Lets go back to level 6 to 10 using 40 volume peroxide. This degree of lift is not possible! Why? Because you have to lift through level 6 then 7,8,9 this is your four level so 10 is not attainable with permanent colour unless you pre-lighten with Bleach decolourizer. Or are skilled enough to know how to manipulate both colour and pigment in formulations? Yes there are ways  I could share with you but hard to just write down warrants explanation. Let me know if your interested.

This process warrants some time so you don't end up with bright over lifted roots!

Before we embark on this we have to consider the head we are working on is it pre-coloured? can we lift out that colour? again what pigment will we expose? what condition is the hair in how porous is it? will it hold colour? strand test it  when wet will it stretch? does it float or sink in water? if it does not float it's over processed and will not hold colour strongly recommend not to pre lighten this hair.

Consultation. Look. Touch. Question. But remember that most people tend to be rather dishonest about their colour history weather it be home exploration or professional also some hair dresser tell clients that colours are semi permanent even when they do both lift and deposit! why because they don't take the time to understand the chemistry of the product they are   using also many of the companies miss lead stylist in the way their colours work!

blonde high lights low lights

Herbal. Ammonia free. Organic. Natural. No lift, No peroxide. ask, ask, ask, then ask again!!  Then ask How can this be ? What no Alkaline! Maybe it's hidden disguised.  Get all the information you can. Be the best you can. Understand the chemistry of the colour and the the pigment available to you in any given shade.

Will the Natural series have enough pigment to hold a natural level when using 20 volume peroxide? Or will it be to warm ? Questions you have to ask your self and consider. What it really attainable with regard to tone and look.

Good luck Mike B2MR
Want more colour information  contact me we can chat. about your colour issues and requirements.