Violet shade and tone it's role hair colouring

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

As I post my blogs and decide on topic's or articles. I always take a look at what is being searched for to see if it's an issue I can write about .

                                One such topic is Violet in hair colour! Such a cool topic!
Required to create a cool natural looking bleached Blonde Required to control unwanted yellow undertones!

When one thinks about violet as a colour or tone . I ask my self are we thinking Violet tone in controlled reds.Those shades of cool red that one see's so much of these days.
Or are we thinking about. The role Violet plays in the hair colour process. Violet as shade or tone plays a much bigger part in hair colouring than one might think. But it's almost behind the scene in the colour process.

Firstly with our natural or N series or natural series Violet will always play a key role depending on the level you are working on and what your target colour is .

                       As always to understand this we have to either look at the colour wheel or a chart.

With the chart i have attached one can see very clearly where and at what level Violet comes into play
from the numbers system on the left hand side we can see it's plays a very big role in levels of hair form 8 to 10.
Maybe your asking what role does it play?  All hair colour is a balance of our primary colours . RED. YELLOW. BLUE. When blended together at any given level you will alway get a perfect natural shade  balance at that given level. A natural level 8 will not be to warm or gold or to ash!
Even when doing Hight lights or partially lifting sections, as in shot below once desired level has been reached toning with be required.

What changes this. When we lift hair with a chosen level of peroxide with lighten it .this lightening process will expose the natural pigment in the hair. At our level natural 8 as we lift it i will expose yellow Orange [see chart]  this warmth would be fine if you are trying for a warmer shade at level 8. If however you are trying to maintain a natural level 8 then the warmth exposed would have to be controlled.

Remember we discussed balance well if we have exposed that warmth in our level 8. Exposing yellow and orange pigment we need to balance that off.

Yellow/ Orange or  Yellow / Yellow /Red   or Y+Y+R = yellow Orange

To restore our Natural balance what do you think is required?  what is lacking in the above formulation?
What will re balance us back to our Red yellow Blue?

Blue/Violet  or Blue / blue red  or B+B+R =  Blue violet.

How does this work well if you look at the two formulations : The balancing required for out natural level would be as follows
Our first formulation is gold and warm it lacks any Blue . The balancing formulation replaces that Blue
but also balances out the the lacking Red pigment that is dominated by the yellow in the first part.

Final  Balanced Level 8 tone  Y+Y+B+B+R+R =  Yellow Blue Red at a natural level 8
It's all about balance.

Violet Control yellow!  not ASH ! Yellow and Ash make  GREEN !

When pre lifting hair with Bleach to any level of Yellow . A violet Tone will re balance  you are introducing an equal amount of Blue and Red mixed together to control and re balance the yellow exposed in the lifting process.

If you assess the degree you have lifted as being slightly orange yellow then you would have  use a slightly more blue tone !   See chart above.

Violet in permanent colour or N series is normally calibrated to be the right amount of pigment fro the level you are working at. But choice of Developer or Peroxide will always pay a role in this.

Violet as a toner or pre lightened hair would be used when a yellow or pale yellow level of lift has been reached.

This wheel may help you as you can see Violet sits opposite the yellow telling us that it's would be required to restore balance. Opposites re balance or neutralise the unwanted pigment exposed or created.

Formulation: Target colour = Lift. Deposit. Timing: always the equation to think about.
Ask your self  Do you want to utilise or neutralise the pigment you are going to expose.
Violet plays a key roll as a controller in the Blue cool reds and even in shades as Dark a 3 N see chart above.
In the toning of hair Violet plays a key role in controlling the yellow pigment exposed and giving a really nice shade of platinum Blonde. Always when toning stay with the toner as it develops to get the desired effect you are looking for . In some cases of toning if left on to long the pigment can over deposit.

Cool reds depicted by the V in above shot.  Fashion shade top row. Violet based high lift Blonde toner second in from the right second row.
I hope this answers some questions if not feel free to post questions . Mike B2MR

Transition from solid colour to highlights

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

This is a topic that raises questions all the time by clients,  women friends and stylists.  That question is on  the topic of moving away from a solid colour to Highlights low lights or multi tonal slowly going lighter.In many cases to work with some percentage of grey hair or change in skin tone
Indeed growing out a build up of home or over the counter colour and the constant battle with Grey roots or re growth.
The same model has been used though out this colour journey  from solid to lighter and more multi tonal.

Above a shot of a perfectly done colour roots formulation for 30% grey coverage colour balanced with a nice shade of Copper beige looks healthy and in great condition.
The issue roots every 4 to 5 weeks and the fading issue that happens over time even with the best of colour formulations.

It was decided to try and attain a lighter and multi toned colour that would allow the Grey to blend and grow out longer in between colouring.

Above: As stated same model same head we left the colour to grow out for as long as we could 7 to 8 weeks this models hair grows very quickly.
We introduced some highlights lifting with bleach starting with the ends and mid lengths and working our way in .Why you may ask? Well the end s and mid lengths had been coloured before this pigment had to be lifted out to a workable shade then the roots lifted to match in,.The original  shade was also highlighted back in to hair ,Some of the Grey was just left.
The above result was after one correction or re balance session.

This past week end another 7 weeks on it was time to do the colour again adjusting the ratio of highlights and low lights.the shot above was pre colouring.As you can see although grown out the shade and depth of tone held well and the grey issue is less apparent.

Above colour taken in bright sun shine but one can see the multi tones an dhow we have lightened the hair but still kept the warmth and copper tones.the under section is still solid and done with a demi formulation. Colours used
Roots Goldwell 7KG 10 vol colour balanced mid lengths end with colourance.
Highlights 10 vol bleach roots - re growth  20 vol mid lengths ends. [next time roots only on carry through]
lanza colour 6RB demi formulation for darker low light deposit only root to end and under section.

Finally happy model liking the lighter colour and less root issue . We will now be looking to high light and low light every 10 to 12 weeks. so by working with our client she is happy has a new look that lasts longer .
She is happy that although the technique cost more to do she goes longer in between services but the condition feels better and she loves the change.
Taken October 1st in the Uk with 30 degrees of sunshine and blue sky a record heat breaking week end.
Working with your client talking her or him through options. Explaining that doing it in stages over a few visits and a certain time period will create best results. Taking a little colour journey and adventure together.
Of course should she ever want to re visit the solid darker richer shade then a simple application of a Demi formulation would do the trick with over stressing the hair or compromising condition.