Re visit lift deposit/shade and tone

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

PEA IN YOUR HAIR COLOUR:


A re visit to a topic that I have covered a number of times but one that I think generates much attention raises many questions.
Recently I came a cross some advise suggesting the following:

When doing High lift Blonde if you have an issue with. to much Natural gold pigment being exposed during the lifting process add a pea sized amount of 1N!
Whilst i can understand the thinking behind this... I would class this type of advise One. For advanced colour technicians. Two  as a last resort. I would like to explain why.

First and foremost I advocate when working out a formulation to either weigh or measure product so it can be repeated or accurately changed . Oh and save's product wastage.
So advise like pea size is rather unquantified. How big is any given pea?  It's a little like formulation i see in some instances with a squidge!  How much is that? How much is a squeeze? You get the idea.

So moving on High lift Blonde is designed for lifting Natural hair level 6 to 9  if target colour is a desired level of natural looking Blonde. Any level Darker than a level 5 will not give desired lift and you will have unwanted pigment issues. You may need to lift with a Bleach decolourizer then tone.

When lifting with a normal High lift Blonde formulation from a level 6  with a target colour of a natural level 9 .
We have to lift  through level 6 into level 7 and 8 then lifting or controlling pigment at our level 9

In terms of pigment exposed this is as follows.
level 6  Red/orange
level 7  Orange
level 8  Orange/yellow
level 9 Yellow

These are the pigments we expose and expect to see when lift from a level 6 with a High lift formulation
Normally with a High lift the mixing ratio is 1 part Colour to 2 part 40 vol Developer.

The higher level of developer is to achieve the required lift with a development time for lift and deposit of 50 Minutes. [ heat does not accelerate this formulation or timing]
As we can see from above information if we have an issue with unwanted gold pigment being exposed we have an issue with either the natural level we started from or the formulation/timing.

To Much Gold suggest's not enough lift. What we can do ? Is a Natural controlled blonde shade attainable? Of course it is. We have to look at our formula an address the issue of Pigment exposed and how to control it. Consult your shade chart and your colour wheel.

Yellow Orange would denote or present as Gold hue so to control one would need a Blue /violet formulation to address and or tone .This can be seen both on the basic colour wheel above or the provided pigment correction chart. I would agin suggest if Gold pigment is the issue then you have
only lifted then hair to a level 8 exposing the pigment at that level.

Easy to solve give it some thought think the process through it's all about balance of pigment.
Consider this.
Level 8 has a Yellow/Orange pigment showing as Gold or Y+RY= Gold
Level 8 pigment lacking to restore balance and tone             B+BR= Blue/violet.

How does this work for it's a basic colour equation.We all know that our primary colour are Red/yellow Blue it's a balance of these shades at any given level that give us our natural levels or N series.

When we lift hair exposing pigment  we strive to restore that balance of R+Y+B= N natural! yes it's that easy. Do have questions  about this ? feel free to post

In closing the suggestion of 1N pea sized! would be because of the pigment making up that said shade being that Dark at IN  It is a predominately. Blue based shade with Blue Red Blue. This agin gives us Blue violet tone. But in a rather unorthodox way! It is also worth a mention that with some of the new products that are colour additive accelerants are used they will increase the process time. But it's worth considering. If the process will the speed up. Will it allow for full pigment development needed to control pigment exposed in the lifting process? Just a thought.

I do hope this is helpful as always before trying anything suggested o line take some time to think it through ask questions. Discuss with fellow professionals.
Mike B2MR
                                                            http://back2myroots.co.uk/