Loving that Blonde hair colouring.

Back2myroots :  A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

                                                 Creating a Natural Blonde:
                                                               from a Natural level 6 to 9

When we think about lifting hair from a natural level to create a lightened natural blonde look. Many things have to be considered to avoid disaster. Be it with home colour or in a salon for a professional service, it is not just a question of buy the box see the shade slap it on! Even though some advertising might suggest this!
First and foremost you have to consider the Natural level of your hair is it? will it be possible to get the level of blonde you want? If you hair is darker than a level 6  a real light blonde will not be attainable with just box colour! You will always be fighting issues of Orange and Yellow orange Pigment.
At level 5 and Darker you may have to consider lifting your hair with a bleach decolouriser if this is the case toning will be required.

If your in the salon it's consultation time. Assessing the hair and discussing the target colour and finally  discussing and reviewing  long term issues and maintenance.

Also be it salon colour or home colour the following should always be considered with honesty. Past history is a key factor you cannot lift colour with colour going copper to Blonde from a box is not an easy option certainly would not try it at home!!!!

In this example as apoint of discussion lets use a level 6. We have to consider the natural hair pigment that is going to come into play through the lifting process.

In this case lets look at a  target Natural level 9 touching on 10 {As i have stated in the past to go from a level 6 to 10 with high lift tint permanent colour is expecting a great deal from the product!}

When thinking this process through and considering the pigment we are going to expose it will help us get a realistic target shade and save the risk of shocks from unwanted or expected tone maybe that unwanted orange or yellow undertone.

There is a science to colouring hair it can seem scary mainly because it looks complicated but trust me it's a great little exercise to do,  a method to learn and trust.

As we all know hair colour is always a balance of shades and tone: lift and pigment exposed:

Everything starts with our Red, yellow, Blue { then moves into balance of } orange, green.violet.

So lets take a look:

Levels. As we can see on the section of the colour wheel  as we travel from level 6 to level 9-10 we travel from Red orange to undertone to yellow:

lets take a look at lift:

Level 6  when we lift this level we expose  {Red Orange} R.O

R+R+Y  {to balance} B+Y+B balanced shade.

Level 7  when we lift this level we expose  {orange} O

R+Y  {to balance}  B balanced  shade.

Level 8  when we lift this level we expose  {orange yellow}  O.Y

R+Y+ Y  {to balance} B+R+B balanced shade.

Level 9  when we lift this level we expose   {yellow  orange}  Y.O

Y+R+Y  {to balance} B+R+B balanced shade.

Level 1O when we lift this level we expose  { yellow} Y

Y  {to balance}  R+B  balanced  shade

Having taken the time to think through the degrees of lift what we will be exposing we need to think about the pigment we need to replace to have the perfectly balanced natural shade.

So Lets think about Balancing:

level 6 lacks B+Y+B so to balance we need  Ash+ Beige  {ash being blue}  {gold being yellow} 

level 7 lacks  B          so to balance we need   Ash              {blue}

level 8 lacks  B+R+B so to balance we need   Ash Violet   {blue Violet}

level 9 lacks  Y+R+Y so to balance we need   Ash Violet   {Blue red Blue}

Level 10 lacks R+B    so to balance we need    Violet          {red blue}

Now we have to come up with our formula to create a natural tone the perfect natural blonde.

Lets work in Grams 30 = 1 oz

So looking at the above chart we need to count the units of each missing shade.

7 Blue. 3 Red 1 Gold.

The perfect Balance of shades to make a perfect tone:

15 Grams of  Ash { in this case 100A}

10 Grams of Violet{in this case 100V}

5   Grams  of Beige {in this case 100B}

This formulation equates to the required pigment = 7Blue. 3 Red. 1Gold [yellow}

As we know Ash = Blue   Violet =Red+ Blue Beige= Blue+Yellow:

If we look at the above shades chosen for a toner they perfectly balance out the pigment exposed to give us a Natural Blonde no gold no yellow but not dull a perfect balance!
Allow yourself the time to think the process and the formulation through prior to application.

Enjoy spend some time thinking about tone shade pigment finding that perfect Balance. Consider lift tone deposit. The target colour.

Remember it's not a race it's a process always remember the law's of colour trust your colour wheel:

Mike B2MR