When it comes to understanding the chemistry of hair colouring. Get educated not mislead!
As Hairdressers when considering doing hair colour . We owe it to our selves and indeed the client to do the best job possible, but more than that give the best service and advise possible, suggesting colour that works with skin tone and eye colour. Work with the best products available, understand the chemistry of the product how it works reacts with hair, what condition with it leave the hair in.
Many hair colours today claim great condition no Ammonia. However claims of no Ammonia does not always mean great condition, some times we sacrifice one evil for another. When no Ammonia is present in permanent colour another alkaline is introduced as a replacement or substitute.There has to be a presence of an alkaline for the colouring process to work
We are talking permanent colour. The process is not the Semi Demi but they to can be misleading in their chemical makeup! So always get informed read the black stuff ask questions.
It's all so complicated. Education, technical knowledge, a greater understanding of the products that you are using is essential. Understand what MEA is another favorite derived from Ethanolamine. Alcohol Denatured. Do you know what this is? It's alcohol derived from fermented grain used as an Alkaline can be very drying but because a grain by product marketed as being natural! Very misleading
Why does Ammonia get such a bad wrap just because it smells ? The damage it can cause depends on the strength being used and the way applied timing, heat, temperature,
Ammonia! GET'S A BAD WRAP SO THEY CAN RELAUNCH OR SELL A NEW CONCEPT
High lift Blondes have an extra kick! Most hair colour lines have high lift blonde range, these again have an alkaline from some source however it may be that extra lift is promoted. In many cases companies also add Ethanolamine to their high lift colour to open the cuticle more! They don't normally advertise or disclose this fact it's disclosed in the small print on the instructions on the paper work inside the box .
So why is MEA such an innovation? MEA now promoted to replace Ammonia can any one enlighten me?
Definition:
MEA Monoethanolamine:
Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethlene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? Would you think that good for hair?
Definition:
Alcohol denatured:
A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
Sounds good too!
Definition:
Ammonia:
An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3, first step in the nitrogen cycle.
Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material.Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia be aware some companies have levels way above this quite low level of working alkalinity.
So the choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.
So as we can see although some companies portray natural less harmful chemistry it is not always the case. adding natural oils or waxes to protect scalp to make application easier are all part of this process.
This is why knowledge research are key and empowering when it comes to colouring hair and the choices we make on products must go beyond what the sales rep or promotion material say.
I am not trying to scare just inform encourage thinking research!
Thank you!
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