Links to original Topic/article:
http://mikeb2mr.wordpress.com/2011/03/10/hairdressing-nightmares-a-true-life-account/
http://back2myroots.tumblr.com/
The above are the links to the first part of this posting relaying a nightmare caused by poor choice and decision when embarking on lightening pre-coloured hair. The scenario demonstrates the pit falls of lifting hair that has a build up of colour. What can and does go wrong when not done correctly.
That being honesty with regard to expectation, realistic goals, and out come during the consultation process, and the need for a strand test.
So if you have not read the above posting please if you have time do.
So the fix!
So to review as you can see from either the first article or the first picture here, The attempt at lifting evenly from roots to ends was a failure. Leaving over lightened roots mid lengths with a real orange hue and very little lift on the ends. The desired effect was for toffee caramel low lights.
 |
| poor colour job before shot |
The picture was provided by the client, but as you can see it really was a poor job.
When seeing this many thing came to mind apart from the poor job, also how the blonde just did not work with either skin tone or eye colour.
My suggestion was get rid of it ASAP!
Go back to being a rich dark healthy chocolate brown.
How would you do this, well it certainly would not require any more lift just a re build of the pigment base in the over lightened section then colour balance.
My suggestion would be to fill the over lightened section with a Demi formulation of either 7G or 7GC predominantly gold but with enough copper to balance with with warmth of the mid section. only apply to overly lifted area. leave for around 10 Minutes or[ follow your product directions ] remember you only need deposit formulation.
Once your chosen product has developed enough to deposit you can now think about final shade depth and Tone.
With the colour line i would use i would apply directly over top of first application. The same formulation being Dem deposit only zero lift. Here is where it gets interesting I will apply 4N directly over the top . Odd choice for some given as the N series is not always considered as a chosen colour.
But here is my thinking.
In this instance I am looking for a rich chocolate Brown. I have re introduced the missing pigment to the root area, but now i need to control that warmth to get the correct depth of colour.
 |
| look for location of orange section blue green section. |
My 4N has a Blue green base
Check your colour wheel on your product ! green is made up of Blue+Yellow.
So given that we put on 7G the gold + Yellow + Red+yellow= orange
The 4N Blue + yellow +Blue= green
So the out come of this formulation is the Base of the 4N will control or neutralise the warmth creating a wonderful rich chocolate brown.
As you can see from the colour wheel Orange sits across from Blue Green of the colour wheel so a perfect rich shade is possible.
Finally the after shot again provided by the client I did not carry out this colour fix but did advise her as what to get done and how.
The chosen formulation controlled all warmth and left her with a rich dark brown filling in all those unwanted shades and the nasty root lift.
Again this was all done with a Demi formulation for all those interested the process time is only 20 minutes so once applied it's a very easy way to repair poor colour issues.
As a formulation it is none progressive so will not over deposit.
For any one interested Lanza Colour .
I hope this has been interesting for you as an exercise maybe it will encourage us all to think before we act.
Always have that consultation. Trust the colour wheel. Remember it's all about the service we offer our skill and knowledge, It's these things that enables us to keep our clients.
THANK YOU TO THE CLIENT. For allowing me to share and recount this experience.
Mike B2MR
No comments:
Post a Comment