A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.
What is Demi colour? How does it fit in? With permanent and Semi permanent colour?
Demi permanent colour is an opaque hair colour it will generally last about 6 weeks
It's main design and application would be for modern Grey coverage and refinement of under tones, also adding richness and shine has a slightly satin finish. For tone on tone and darker application with the need for lift.
It will not lighten the hair's natural pigment when mixed correctly with right developer. So little chance of introducing unwanted warmth into target colour.
It Penetrates the cuticle layer to deposit the new artificial pigment in the Cuticle and to some degree in the Cortex. Although not a formulation to lighten the hair over use or constant over lapping will over time lighten the hair slowly, due to the fact that the developer has a low level of peroxide normally less than 5vol required to activate the colour molecule during the development process.
As stylist we have many things to consider when dealing with issue of Grey hair. The options available to us are many the techniques the formulations the products.
The most important tool we have have is knowledge and education this is what enables us to make an informed decision as to what might be the best way to proceed.
The choices should it be permanent or semi or Demi application ? you must be able to explain options from a clients point of view with so much hype on the Tv the choices endless what colour should it be. It really is a minefield of products shades all claiming that home colours can change your life make you look and feel young.
The quick fix especially those 10 minute colours contain more pigment than peroxide so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit in some cases going black! or leaving unwanted tone as they fade out.
Formulation: for professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.
Pre-pigment sometimes called softener: Having established the natural level of the hair select a neutral shade Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide suggest the lowest volume possible apply directly over pre-fill a Demi application formula is ideal for this
Points to Consider rule of thumb when mix a formulation for Grey hair the formulation should contain as much of the Neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this} 40% Grey 40% N series at desired level.
If you really have to use high volume of peroxide you can adjust your formulation to deliver more pigment to control the warm undertone you are going to expose.
Instead of standard formulation mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide { normal formulation 1part colour to 1 1/2 developer}
If your working with a client who has a history of using over the counter colour then establish what the product was!
In some case a stand test might be advised. so of the colour's now days have oil and silicone this can build up in the hair may effect deposit.
So in closing consider all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.
To get the very best results consider you options always try and go with the least chemistry possible keep accurate records of formulations and results. This way formulations can be adjusted until perfect balance is reached.
Mike B2MR
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