Home hair colour. Choice sand consequences!

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

One of the biggest dangers that consumers face when heading down to. The supermarket . Chemist. Drug. Store .Searching the hair color aisle is a daunting process and sometimes impulsiveness.

Lack of knowledge. To much choice. To little direction and helpful information.

Don't assume that because the biggest print on the box says Ammonia free all natural that it's safe!

Pictures of half an Avocado, suggesting health and shine.

If it's permanent colour with no Ammonia it has something else doing the same job be that MEA or De alcoholised grain extract. So its buyer beware get informed!  

               (Image of models on the boxes promoting that look that natural colour the healthy shine!).

Celebrities and advertising gurus have heavily promoted the idea that if you change your hair color, you instantly transform your life.

While that concept may potentially be true in some cases, any home hair coloring projects undertaken in haste could result in months of growing out regrets.

Is it possible to create a magical perfect hair color? Yes! Just Wave a wand and get that home hair color with natural hues with success?  Although more complicated coloring projects should be outsourced to a professional colorist. With some careful planning and consultation every thing is possible.

A list of realistic expectations and a little patience, new shades of beautiful blonde, radiant red, and chocolate brown, can all be possible.

But it is buyer beware and pitfalls can and do often happen. Trying to go from one shade to another trying to jump to one colour to another totally different colour issues with over processing!

Oh! they forgot to mention that on the box!

Things to Know

Temporary – Lasts through 1-2 shampoos.  Coats outside of cuticle but does not usually contain peroxide or ammonia.  Will not lift color but will deepen, brighten or enhance existing color but may well chemical properties to help deposit a little.

Semi-Permanent – Lasts 4-6 shampoos.  Coats outside of cuticle and down to next layer.  Generally is free of peroxide or ammonia.  May be more permanent in some situations again by changing the Ph of the hair the colour will deposit last longer in some cases.

Demi-Permanent – Lingers through up to 20 shampoos.  Deposits color between cuticle and cortex.  May contain some peroxide and/or ammonia.

Permanent – Cuticle is opened and color is deposited down into the cortex.  Contains peroxide and ammonia. Color lasts until it grows out, is cut off or is recolored.

Highlights – Lifts pigments from the cortex. Contains peroxide, bleach and ammonia.

Double Process Color – Cuticle is first opened and hair is lightened 4-6 levels with peroxide, ammonia and bleach.  New color is then deposited via a toner into the cortex through the cuticle.

While Temporary, Semi and Demi-Perm hues are generally considered "safe"  “there are always exceptions to every hair rule". sometimes the Chemistry of these colours is misleading. Changing the Ph of hair changes the way colour will deposit.

For example, In "some situations, “wash out” tones may become “permanent” if applied to strands that are porous or damaged from previous bleaching or chemical treatments.”

What does this mean exactly?  That if you apply a temporary color to strands that are damaged and thus "porous" or more absorbent than normal, the color will seep down deep into the cortex and may permanently stain.  Thus repeated attempts to wash out the color will be ineffective.

If you’re brand new at the shade changing game consider products with training wheels such as temporary, semi or demi-perm colors  that last only through a series of shampoo treatments.

Once you get the hang of coloring with temporary colors, you can step up to the permanent colors that lasts until it grows out, hair is cut or a new hue is applied.

But be aware that over time colour desired and used might need to be adjusted. also over time the condition of hair coloured on a regular bases can and will change.

In some cases the colour used on re growth might be different from colour needed to match in the mid length and ends.

Note:  If you are unsure how your strands will adopt to hair color, dial the toll free help lines provided with most home hair color kits or skip the home color exercise and contact a professional colorist.

So many choices so many shades so much to consider! maybe it's time to have a no obligation consultation with a Professional Stylist. Before making that leap of faith into the unknown world of hair colour! Mike B2MR

Quote:

Hey Mike,

I am loving the blog, great information and wonderful layout.  Sheila Szonyi

Our Love of Hair and home colour.

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

Home Hair Colour: THE PIT FALLS,

I have been inspired to touch on this huge subject . Offer some advise and share some experiences gained from so many great years in our industry.  It's very cool.

I will try and cover some subjects from the every day challenges to the creative over the top looks oh and some of the hair nightmares we get to fix and advise on! We all need to do understand how things happen and why ! 

Misuse of products. Miss information. Inpatients and not following guide lines and instructions. We can all be guilty of these things at some point in our career!

I have already posted topic's on this blog site on Bleaching. Lift deposit. Toning . Damage .Condition  but have decided that as topic's they can always be re visited.  Reviewed in depth so will post more individual topics over the coming days. 

In the hopes of guiding and providing information that helps avoid pit falls.

                          

                                      A list of topic's that may well be added to:

Bleaching/ Decolourizer/ Lift deposit?/ Toning.

Metallic salts in hair colour.

Re dying hair/ with Drug store colour / Roots Application/colour Balance.

Removing Colour/ Stand tests/ Condition.

Using Pigment / Under tone pigment friend or foe: 

Bleaching Root application.

I also think at this juncture. That it is worth mentioning that. 
Not all home colours be they permanent tints or fun fashion shade are what they claim to be. It's buyer beware. If  your wondering should I colour my hair will it hold colour a very simple test.

Take a strand test. Remove a small amount of your processed hair and drop it into a glass of water. If it sinks fair chance it will not hold colour and is over processed healthy hair will float. If you have a history of colouring and bleaching it on a regular bases. It may feel slimy when wet sort of stretchy time to give it a rest!! it's toasted! will not hold colour.

Many Products: 
Claiming to be .Ammonia free have something else doing the same Job MEA , Grain Alcohol derivatives. Other products that manipulate the ph of the hair.

They in some cases can contain trace elements of metallic salts. This is why it's essential to do a stand test. prior to applying bleach a chemical reaction can occur creating heat. 
     

                              In worst case this heat can melt over processed hair

To determine if hair has been colored by a metallic dye, mix 1 oz. of 20-volume peroxide with 20 drops of 28% ammonia. Submerge 20 strands of hair in the solution and let it sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes. If the hair lightens rapidly, the hair contains lead. If there is no reaction after 30 minutes, the hair contains silver or bismuth. If the solution starts to boil and emits a foul odor, the hair contains copper. Hair that has no metallic salts on it should lighten only very slightly.
 

I hope that this information is helpful and that the topic's  covered do help with some of the issues that can happen when colouring and re colouring hair. Without knowledge of the products chemistry or formulation the risks of a chemical reaction or poor results or indeed allergic reaction can be a risk.

Although I offer sound advise. Every head is different the  history on any given head is different so information and advise offered is only guidance. Although I am a qualified  professional i cannot guarantee results on any given head.

If in doubt get a professional consultation it should be free and without commitment. 

All of the topic's and articles posted are to try and share knowledge and experience .Hoping to inspire and raise standards.

                                                 http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/   

On a bad day you could end up like this! anyone guess how this 

was done or why?  Mike B2MR

Hair colour case review: Solid colour to High lights.

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:
Regular postings of fresh new topic's

Well this past week end was crunch time.
I have been colouring my wife's hair a solid colour for quite a while. I have played with shades and tones and formulations. As we all know a colour can and will look different just by using a different level of developer.
Well sadly the Grey is creeping in. The re growth is appearing quicker and the depth of deposit and so longevity of vibrancy was getting lost.
Time to think a little lighter. Time to think high lights and low lights a mixture of shades. being the long term goal.
As you can see below: When first done this colour looks rich warm healthy looking:

Well I knew and know from experience this is not a quick or easy task, nor can one take short cuts!  No not because it's my wife although that plays a part! But because this colour and so degree of deposit has built up over time so to get an even lift  down the full shaft of  hair i would have to start lifting from the ends in running a couple of different formulation.
I like to use papers for high lighting and find the best ones that don't slip and will stay right up to the root without bleeding are Hi Lit Wraps By W.R Rayson. They come in various sizes are waxed paper so bio degrade with time. I will post a link at the end of Article.

Although an older shot from my archive: This shot below gives a very good example of the issues being faced. Roots and faded washed out colour.

I decided on my course of action my goal was to lift to a golden blonde at this time so that in the future we can high light and low light still adding some warm shades. But for now it's breaking up a solid colour but with even lift. Fine highlights and low lights.

I would run 20 vol bleach decolouriser from end to mid lengths and 10 vol decolouriser mid lengths for now no root application for they will lift and go to light to quickly.
Once applied i left them on with visual timing as the correct shade was reached so i took them out a rinsed with water. Once this was complete and I was happy with the shade the full head was rinsed really well and then dried off.
Now a root assessment  to blend them in the lift achieved i Decided on two formulations her natural level is 7 but around 7G  so i used a 9N with 20 vol for the roots 1 part colour 1 1/2 developer  knowing the violet under tone would control anything to yellow This was applied only to the roots / regrowth.

Formulation.
I also used a Demi formulation of 9B for deposit only just to add a burnt honey tone through the newly lightened hair. so yes i put in a second set of high lights over the first but ended up with target shade and colour no banding and even lift. Taking us on the road to a lighter all over effect without it look yellow dull or drab.

The 9B has a green base at a level 9. So when applied over the existing copper it will neutralise to some degree thus creating a burnt honey tone. controlling the copper.
The process:
From now on it will be some lift with a low volume bleach decolouriser and some low lights of different shades depending on time of year . Less root issue and multi tonal shades for life and texture.

As promised here is some contact for the Hi Lite wraps.I am in the Uk and have found them very helpful with regard to service.

hi lite wraps at work right to root

This collection of shots is to show the advantages of the Hi lite wraps the model in shot was having blonde high lights this is not part of the discussed above colour process. These wraps are so easy to use very light and fold over very easily. They are easy to manage when sliding them in to the roots clean neat section's is the key working off of sections working with the shape and curve of the head and always taking into account the hair line and growth patterns.
When removing they pull out with ease with out snagging or any discomfort to the client.

many papers very neat to work with.

right to roots no bleeding




For any one interested in the Hi-Lite wraps. I have also found this company so helpful they are based in the United states who knows maybe we can get them into the UK or Global.
http://www.sparenity.com/

I supply this information because of the out standing service they have given me not because of financial gain. Mike B2MR
A special note of thanks to Lien Le and Fran Martin. 

Hair colour: Hair colouring Techniques

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic's

sharing thoughts

Over the years hair coloring techniques. 
Have changed with the times with the demands. From. Fashion trends. The constant demands for new looks for individual looks requiring new techniques and skills, that allow us to create new looks to correct and possible camouflage poorly or badly done hair colour.
In some cases colour that is so badly done or damaged. That the last resort calls for radical action maybe a perky cut or as a last resort a wig. Yes this can and does happen.

Formerly lightening/lifting jet-black hair would mean hours of bleaching.This would leave hair in. Poor condition. Unhealthy and over processed. Often with orange red mid-lengths and ends. With yellow roots more straw like than anything close to blonde. In some cases those looking for strawberry blond commonly end up with some shade of red or copper.

We now have some colour removing products on the market. These are worth considering when wanting to go from light to dark but always do a strand test. Get professional advise or a consultation.For those wanting to try a darker shade. Without care thought and attention to the process a Gothic look caused from going to dark can happen. Bad hair Bad High lights is quite common place!

Modern hair coloring techniques and liberation of colour and appearance have made fire-engine red a fashion trend for some. Instead of a hair coloring catastrophe this can be a acceptable life saver now days when the removal of dark hair fails and a red hue takes over.

Modern hair coloring techniques can when done correctly add true dimension and tone working with the natural movement and swing of your hair cut and style.

Highlights and low lights are just a few of the choices that enhance both your hair your face style and appearance.  In addition hair coloring techniques include paneling and chunks, semi permanent and Demi permanent colour to refresh and brighten colour as it fades.

Types of Hair Coloring Techniques

Highlights:
Probably one of the first innovations in hair coloring, highlights brighten and add shine. Highlights work best on blonde to warm shades of gold, honey, amber, and reds and can be applied with permanent hair color, but after time should be carried out colour balancing by addressing root issues and refreshing the previous colour with a gentle formulation

Problems can and will arise when continued permanent colour is continuously laid over previously coloured hair.

Low lights:
A hair coloring technique that adds real depth to hair color.  low lights add darker tones and soften the look of over-lightened hair or add dimension to hair color that looks flat. A skilled stylist can weave up to three different colors into your hair by pulling a few strands here and there through a weave cap for a subtle look or foiling chunks of your hair for a dramatic, trendy look. this process can be applied with various shades can also be very effective when wanting to add darker shades of colour
putting darker low lights can add as much dimension and tone as introducing lighter shade.
It is worth noting. That when going tone on tone and darker that a Demi formulation is sufficient when going darker we do not have to lift hair as part of the process. a common mistake made! if you go darker with a permanent colour you will introduce warmth to the chosen shade!

Refreshing: 
Brightens and enhances old flat hair color by applying a semi-permanent glaze in a richer tone over a permanent shade.

 Paneling /Chunks: 
Takes large, random sections of hair and infuses them with new color. or dramatic Blonde it is a hair coloring technique that gives dramatic impact to your hairstyle, often by adding vibrant shades and bright trendy colors to natural hair color.

Hair Coloring Technique Processes
 that are used most often are highlighting and low lights. Many different methods are used to achieve this effect. It's my opinion the one that needs the least skill, is when your stylist pulls small strands through holes in the weave cap. The effect is usually a subtle change that enhances your basic hair color the cap tends to not get as close to the root as other techniques and the holes dictate where the highlight goes with a cap only one shade can be applied at a time.
Foiling: 
Your stylist places sections of hair onto rectangular sheets of foil and applies color or lightener, folding the foil to keep the color in place and away from other sections. Of all highlighting techniques, foiling can be applied closest to the root. many different techniques and products for this method papers foil
it is favored by professionals and colour technicians.

freehand painting:
A great application for textured, natural curls, or wavy hair. Your stylist selects specific areas and hand paints them with color. working with the wave and the way the hair naturally falls this  technique creates a dramatic implementation of a hair coloring technique leaves you with a very “personal” appearance!
It’s important to note that although kits are available for most all hair coloring techniques. Professional stylists have the skill that comes with experience. Especially for hard to color shades like Grey, platinum, and black hair. It would be recommended to consult a professional if you intend to try a new hair color technique at home!  products designed for home use do not perform in the same manner as professional colour and techniques and application come with training and experience.

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