Thoughts on haircutting the process

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic's

Following in the steps of our make over article some food for thought

A place to share thoughts: review hair colour, products and techniques.

I'm often asked how many different hair cuts are there ? My first thought was thousands but then if one really thinks about it well it's quite an interesting thought process.

We need to think this through a little!

Long.             Anything past shoulder blades

Medium.        Shoulder blades up to nape or chin length

Short.            Anything above this.

Remember this is my thought process into the question asked not a definitive way of assessing or going about cutting or assessment of length or look, just sharing thoughts views on the process! My thought went to layers why layers. well at the end of the day if not all one length then layers to some degree or another make form the shape. It could be argued that layers are required for a perfect on length look for that wonderful swing and movement!

We must not forget techniques, slide cutting, castle thinning shear, razor Cutting, and the many other tools we have at out disposal but these are techniques if you like artistic license, freestyle cutting.The basic's don't change the length and degree of layering.Shape form, weight distribution. This sounds to simplistic all hair cuts are length and shape created by degree's of layering. Simple it's not because with this description we have to consider the real part creative talent, skill training. Any hair cut however basic or however complicated is a mixture and blend of above techniques.

What is a hair cut:

A hair cut is weight distribution it is having understanding of when cutting hair off where it will fall and lie how it will contribute to the final shape. It is being able to see and imagine shape. Someone once said a great hairdresser should see a shape in 3D know how it will look, I think this a perfect analogy.

A great hair cut is a blend of the degree of laying but having a full understanding of weight distribution and a vision to see shape.

The key is that consultation. On length and shape but also first and foremost to understand that if you put a weight line in with your fist cut it will dictate the whole cut it can make the difference between good bad average or just not good.

What ever we are doing creating has to start with a foundation. If you do this a weight line can be moved as a shape forms if you commit to it off the bat by dictating from the crown you have know room for change maybe that odd growth pattern double crown all things that can cause issue!

It can also be said that one length really is only when cut to 1/8th of an inch all over and left to grow but this would only be true as it grows out if you turned the person up side down. but then we are back into weight distribution why because you cannot cut a straight line on a curved surface and given the shape of the head we have thousands of curves and angles to play with hence understanding weight distribution.

I think that angles on the head could be by think about a fan placing on the crown open it up  many angles now place on crown different direction again many angles how to they the work together? These two shots above and below highlight perfectly bad hair i really don't know whats worse 1/ That maybe the lady likes this look? Or 2/ slightly worse that she paid for it and a professional thought this acceptable. It's really bad

As an exercise try this:

Stand behind your client take a section across the crown about 3inches wide comb it straight up now look below your fingers at the section the distance from the crown to your fingers is less in the middle than the distance on the out side of section, why because of the curve of the scalp so it follows that it will be be straight when it falls. Now take that same section and lean it to the left as you do this the hair from the right and into  middle of the section will fall away carry on with the hair traveling to the left of the section the further you go the more will fall away. This is weight distribution!

The hair cut is a hair creation. A style. A look. A fashion setting trend. A statement of individuality. If all of these are the case. Why as stylist do we in so many cases stick in so many cases to cutting the same look on everyone? Without any thought to some very basic points or stick to the safe options on the styles we can create. Will is suite this Client? Do they have the right hair type and features? Can they carry it off?

An example of a make over: Razor cut:

As stylists we owe it to both ourselves and our customers Clients to advise in an honest way on what might work be suitable look good, If we don't do this are we really doing our job to it's fullest are we being real professional are we being honest?

ready for a make over the next day she gave birth!

I ask these questions of my self constantly do you? We live in a society that for the most part is very accepting and tolerant of most things, People come in all shapes sizes have different needs desires aspirations all good but we as hair stylist have to take a lead and advise honestly what looks good what will not work.

When thinking about shape texture a look should we not consider the type of hair fine, thick, curly, growth patters at the nape of the neck to the hair line will that fringe {Bang }work for this client and her life style? If i cut this harsh blunt line at the nape will the hair lie the way i want it to? or will it always look lop sided? will that fringe work can i over layer ? yes you can should i add texture? questions to ask your self!

Should i cut a harsh line maybe it should be softer! Why do you see so many men with lop sided cuts? Answer no account was taken for the way the hair grows! just because you combed it flat against his neck cut a perfect strait line does not mean it will lie this way!

At this juncture you may be laughing or thinking this is not me maybe not if so great you are one of the few. I think the fault with these issues lies in training or lack their of! to little time spent on the basic points key to understanding how to build and create a great cut!

well quite the change

Shape  for Example:

when will we stop re vamping the Bob with the chewed up wings the spaniel look! every look has it day but this one is done and oh so dusted, half the women wearing it should not be! In some cases the lines created are just wrong a heavy women with a thick set does not need a strong blunt line emphasising no neck round shoulders. Think about this really fine hair textured within an inch of its life for that shattered edgy look around the chin will it does it work?

The same can be said for cutting this shape into wavy curly hair the line will not hold in the nape area and the length left again around the chin line will curl up looking like to Brillo pads, yes it looks great when she leaves the salon you have hot ironed it with an inch of it's life, guess what it's raining it's Grey it's damp what it's going to look like?

We need to consider these things as professional is a bad look a good representation of out skill and ability will it get us recommendation will it get us client retention? It's all about honest it's all about that consultation it's all about your standard your skill your passion your ability.

Razor cut side view lots of movement and texture

My question is. Can you be honest does any of this apply to you? We are none of us perfect but we have to question our choices. We have to raise the bar we have to have skill, passion and a real desire to make a difference! DO YOU!

These shots are of a young mum to be. She was heavily pregnant hated how she looked and felt. She came into the salon I was working at her words were. I have been to three salons today I want all my hair off  a total change. No one will do it they look at me like a crazy pregnant women.  I smiled said i will. she said really. As you can see the rest is history! next day she gave birth . She called me three days later to thank me.

To share, to seek new knowledge, skills and techniques to share experience is to grow!

Mike B2MR

I would love feed back on this through this blog article or my web site:

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

Double Your Salon Sales - or else

The Salon Success Club

Investing in ones' self

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

As a salon owner are you and your staff trained to a high enough level. Do you have the skills and training. The knowledge and qualification to give you that edge.

As a stylist are you challenging your self to stay current. Stay at the top of your creative game. With all the new techniques and products coming to the market we cannot afford to sit back on what we know. It's not enough.

stage work

Succeeding in any. Cosmetology Endeavor demands quality. Professional skill. Creative talent and technical knowledge. In the hairdressing profession many individuals have good artistic skills. But fail to acquire the technical knowledge needed to make those skills truly great.

Would you like to gain more experience in other aspects of the hairdressing Industry. Maybe your goal is to own your own salon. Have your own freelance business. Maybe Become an Educator for a international hair colour company. A platform artist. Artistic team member. College Tutor. Climb that ladder to Salon Management.

Model set for stage presentation

A world of possibilities some not even mentioned here. What ever your goal your dream you have to stay current and up to date challenge yourself have goals.

Deciding on what path to take, where your true vocation lies is not easy, reaping the rewards from hard work and commitment . Constantly pushing your self striving to be the very best you can.

The hurdle and obstacles can seem immense one has to stay committed and focused. Be prepared to face rejection deal with the emotion of how daunting the journey the adventure can be.

Well you don't have to do it unaided we are here to help. With so many talented drive focused stylist. Industry professional how can you get and keep that edge. Become the chosen one in your field or a business success.

Multi toned highlights.

The interview process.The testing. The practical skills. The live presentation in front of ones peers can all seem so daunting and yet  such a worth while challenge.

What ever your choice. To be top salon stylist. Own your own business become a Platform Artist.

There are no short cuts to success. But understanding what works and why, this can really help you over the hurdles to make the right choice to reach your career destination.

Apart from having the right up to date qualifications. Show a history of commitment through education up dates, prove creativity, show service and consultation skills. Have an interest in business management a willingness and wanting to learn.

Let me share with you my experience to help you get ahead reach your goals.

Most professional product companies and organisations. Hair salons. Training facilities have a clear and defined idea about the quality of skill knowledge and expertise they are looking for.

taking a break!

* How will they interview you.

*What might they ask? How will you respond?

*How can you show you have what they need and are looking for?

* How to demonstrate you have the skills. You have the Knowledge.

                                              It's all Possible

Allow me to  offer some help and advise you share our experience our skills and knowledge. lets remove any surprises lets enlighten you and arm you with the tools needed for success.

We can supply the tools are you ready to do the work take up the challenge to take the next stage in your career journey.

avantgarde looks

So how do we get started?

• Give you an inside look into the world of hairdressing the skills the knowledge the tools required to succeed.
• Reveal what Salon owners, Professional hair companies are looking for are looking for
• Show you how to improve your skills and technical ability Knowledge
• Provide you with real life experience to draw from
• Arm you with the tools you need to succeed

These step by step guides are a must for anyone who's facing and wants to dramatically improve their chances of success of a career growth within the hairdressing world and all the wonderful opportunities it can offer.

Websters defines the word skill as" the ability to use one's skills effectively' Today's Hairdressers must have a strong working knowledge of hair, chemistry, hair structure before you can effectively show your artistic skill through colouring. Sadly there are no short-cuts to knowledge--the more you understand how hair colour works and reacts on human hair fibers, the better prepared you will be to face the challenges that can will and do arise.

Put aside preconceived idea's and lets explore a world of hair colour possibilities together!

So lets get down to business are you ready to get on the colour bus take a journey with us? You can get on and off at your will but the final destination is Correction control!

Investing in oneself!

What does investing in oneself really mean?  Is it costly?  Is it worth while?  Let me tell you, investing in oneself does not have to be financial -  it could simply be time well spent!  We must all look in the mirror and be honest about what needs attention or adjusting, but the real key is knowing, from the bottom of your heart, what you truly want and where you want to go.  Your vision. your dream,your quest.

This of course does not mean that financial expense is not part of this. Sometimes parting with hard earned cash is the driver and the motivator. to seek help, do the work, reap the rewards.

This help comes in many forms. It could be helpful books, seminars, courses, presentations, demonstrations. The key is to have a vision of what you want, where you want your career to go.

Think of your career as a bus journey. Lots of people on board with you, but hey, you're the driver, take your eyes off the road and oops.

We are all in charge of our own destiny we have to make choices live with the consequences challenge ourselves. Share. net work. use professional training bodies her in the Uk HABIA are such  a key part of our industry ,But they too need the support of stylists and professionals.

so be active have and share your voice.Mike B2MR

Hairdressing tips and tricks.

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

 A place to share thoughts post comments and idea's on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

TIPS AND TRICKS:

What does this mean exactly? For me it's sharing anything and everything.It's not about short cuts or breaking rules! It's sharing all those things that we learn and experience along the way. Those things that could save you from a pitfall or at least help you get out of one!

What does it cover ?Anything and everything. All that is us. All that make us stylist, salon owners, business owners, it covers skill knowledge, both technical and practical, life skills, people skills, business skills.

None of us are perfect. None of us know everything. But some know more than others, I'm not talking qualifications I'm talking about experience those skills we have learned along the way.Thus allowing us to share what we have learned along the way.

It is my opinion that however good we are. However much we know. What ever skills we have if we do not share it pass it on use it to encourage others then it's all rather pointless.

To keep it to your self to have bragging rights to crow about how good you were are !! That's all Ego and a waste of time. Giving back sharing is key to personal growth and greater success.

With all the blogs and articles I post my one goal is to share both experience and skill and knowledge.

I have been so fortunate in all the hairdressing industry has afforded me . The experiences I have had. The opportunities I have had. Some of the amazing people I have met and had the good fortune to work with.

I would very much like an opportunity to share this with as many stylist as possible to encourage mentor to challenge them to push themselves. 

To salon owners to encourage them to work with staff and team members. To share and discuss what a salon is and should be. How to get the very best from your en-devours. How to offer the highest of standards of service skill to your clients. whilst increasing sales and client retention.
I had  a young stylist write to me today asking for advise . Having left college wanting to build up a clientele get busy. Yes as we all know it's not easy it tales commitment and hard work, However i do feel that Salon owners and managers have to help the new stylist who is committed to working hard. A guaranteed basic wage for a given period. Also a new stylist should be given all new clients to the salon for an agreed period. This shows both support and commitment. After agreed period the stylist should have proved a good client retention level and indeed added to it through recommendation.
If this is not the case the stylist has to take responsibility for both standard of work and service offered.  

In these challenging economic times. Having a few skills, refusing to constantly assess, honestly reflect on how things are.This a very dangerous path to walk. 

The salon is a place that is unique as are the people who work in it. As are the clients we attract. But the list of what a salon is. What it has to do to run smoothly is huge. It truly is quite a complex structure built of relationships ,honesty and trust.

Appearance, atmosphere, Image, reputation,

Staff, skill education, knowledge, people skill, passion, motivation, service, team players, dedicated. humility. sales through knowledge, respectful, caring.

Owners. Managers. Organisations. skills. Fair firm. Visionary. Sympathetic. Articulate. Service. People skills driven focused. Passion commitment. Knowledgeable . Skilled adviser. Respectful Caring,

Products: knowledge. Sales. Technical skills. On how to use products. Understand use and application.

These are all parts that together make a salon work and be successful can you tick them all off? Maybe most but a few need some attention. I think in most cases we would all be able to add to the list but also circle the need attention items. The million dollar question is Do you want to address those weaknesses!!! either as a salon owner or as an individual do you want to invest a little time and little money to reach new levels have higher standards reach new heights.

Tips and tricks is me offering to share with you all that I know and have experienced from. Salon ownership and management. To platform work. Education and sales. Artistic team member. Successful busy stylist. Communication skills. Consultation skills.

Hands on technical skills from cutting to hair colour to updo's what do you need help with.

From one on one to small salon groups what are your needs.               

Contact me to start investing in your business your self your future. With my skill experience and knowledge and connection with other like minded professionals help is close at hand.
I can connect you with an online support program for you and your salon. So what are your needs?  

Mike B2MR

                             http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/


                             A useful link for material that can be of so much use to both salons and stylist's                        
                                     http://www.karendavidintl.com/index.asp?pageID=2145887365

The Hair salon the stylist who to trust.

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea's on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

long drab very unflattering !

In Colour we trust:  In stylist we trust! do we deserve this trust?

Quite a Topic and one that both hairdressers and clients the public we serve can think on chat about!

Shot above before make over below model after shot, Razor cut  two days later she had her baby! feeling much better about herself.She had been to three salons wanting a change but none of them wanted to risk upsetting a 9 month pregnant women ! why they did not talk the time to listen!

Razor cut no scissors used!

As a client who has decided to go into a salon for a technical colour  service your hope your thinking has brought you to this place because you have decided to pay for the service knowledge expertise of a professional hairdresser colour expert technician.

                                    

You have made this choice rather than enter into the world of home hair colour, 

Quite frankly another area that needs so much more attention spent on it, for the consumer with regard to knowledge and honesty about the products how and why they work, what they do, realistic and true expectations transparency with home hair colour. 

As a stylist working in a salon offering your skill and service just by being in the salon environment you are making the statement that you are a true professional educated and knowledgeable, or at least one would hope so.

Then my question is why do so many women turn to Home hair colour? lets be honest it's not all about saving money, and if it is about money then we as stylist have that challenge to prove that you get what you pay for to justify the salon experience.

The Experience starts with image first impressions of both the salon and the staff appearance you only ever get one chance for a first impression. secondly its the time you have for consultation your time to shine sell you self your skill knowledge, listen advise be honest ask question your in control or you should be, by being in control the client should feel comfortable she is in good hands.

Easy ha!

Then why so many disillusioned clients why do we still see over processed hair drab dull colours, why so many articles from women unhappy with their hair, why so many reviews written about a bad experience.

That's not me i hear you say, who does this guy think he is! great that's the reaction i  want,

But oh so much of the time it's seems all about the money get them in get them out, under skilled under qualified people colouring hair lacking in knowledge and skill but with a Ego the size of a salon.

Why where does it come from?

Is it something instilled at college at the academy fake it till you make it. an attitude that once you have qualified you have made it you know all their is to know. you can go into a salon or go mobile calling your self a true professional.

When we have some many young people in college doing hairdressing and 14 year old students doing basic hairdressing as part of their school lessons, who decides on standards NVQ what does that mean when so many have it and yet are un-skilled! over half the students in one college i had experience with were wasting their time and that of the tutors, of the 14 year old students it was a way of getting out of other subjects but getting a qualification or accreditation upon leaving school what does this say!

Understanding your colour line:

When it comes to professional hair colour salons and stylist it's a fact that salon change colour lines because the one they have does not work for them. it does not lift, the reds don't hold, the ash shades to green, the pigment cannot control the lift! sound familiar, then why?

Professional colour companies know that hairdressers salons change colour lines through dissatisfaction this is why they constantly bring out new repackaged lines. there are differences between in quality but with the top names they pretty much work the same way pigments vary but quality and chemistry quite standard so why change?

Here it is!  IT'S EASIER TO BLAME THE PRODUCT THAN ADMIT LACK OF KNOWLEDGE!

As a former educator for a colour company i have seen so many salon owners bow to pressure from staff to change a colour line through dissatisfaction lack of skill and knowledge.

It is so hard for a manager or owner to suggest the issues lies in the mirror! If we take the time to read the education material in a manual part of a shade chart {yes the black stuff next to the pictures}To go on the education up dates to do in salon training model fun nights to play experiment, get to understand your colour line.

Simple things: this is all true when toning at the basin on pre lightened hair that is still tad yellow using ash toner! then blaming the product because it's sludge green ha ha you laugh it happens.

 or mixing a colour up but because you have chosen possible to higher volume of peroxide to counter act this you squeeze in a little ash then oh maybe that was to much so in goes some gold! yipee green again! guys this goes on!

So for the client who has been part of one of these salon situations these case of poor quality of work how are they supposed to respond? having wanted that salon experience, having wanted to feel pampered and a million dollars..but having left feeling nothing but resentful of the whole experience!

They want to trust know they are in good hands, as stylist we have to go so much further with the service we offer, but we owe it to our selves and the client to invest in our skill get the knowledge get the education learn our trade.

become experts in every aspect of our field this does not happen over night i don't think we ever know everything thing but the goal the motivation should be to know as much as possible keep pushing your self to be better and share this this knowledge with Clients and work mates.

For the client who has had a bad experience i say do not give up on a professional service just research find the good ones do not settle for second best.

Build a relationship built on trust and understanding and honesty about goal and expectations solving problems finding solutions

At the end of the day you should be able to put more trust in the salon the experience than you can that small box on the shelf at the supermarket that covers Grey makes you look younger healthier all in 10 minutes and for under a fiver!!!!!

I have written this to push buttons ask questions get reaction!

here is my web site this also links into my blog comments can be left good or bad.

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

Mike B2MR

Hair colour: Hair colouring Techniques

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic's

sharing thoughts

Over the years hair coloring techniques. 
Have changed with the times with the demands. From. Fashion trends. The constant demands for new looks for individual looks requiring new techniques and skills, that allow us to create new looks to correct and possible camouflage poorly or badly done hair colour.
In some cases colour that is so badly done or damaged. That the last resort calls for radical action maybe a perky cut or as a last resort a wig. Yes this can and does happen.

Formerly lightening/lifting jet-black hair would mean hours of bleaching.This would leave hair in. Poor condition. Unhealthy and over processed. Often with orange red mid-lengths and ends. With yellow roots more straw like than anything close to blonde. In some cases those looking for strawberry blond commonly end up with some shade of red or copper.

We now have some colour removing products on the market. These are worth considering when wanting to go from light to dark but always do a strand test. Get professional advise or a consultation.For those wanting to try a darker shade. Without care thought and attention to the process a Gothic look caused from going to dark can happen. Bad hair Bad High lights is quite common place!

Modern hair coloring techniques and liberation of colour and appearance have made fire-engine red a fashion trend for some. Instead of a hair coloring catastrophe this can be a acceptable life saver now days when the removal of dark hair fails and a red hue takes over.

Modern hair coloring techniques can when done correctly add true dimension and tone working with the natural movement and swing of your hair cut and style.

Highlights and low lights are just a few of the choices that enhance both your hair your face style and appearance.  In addition hair coloring techniques include paneling and chunks, semi permanent and Demi permanent colour to refresh and brighten colour as it fades.

Types of Hair Coloring Techniques

Highlights:
Probably one of the first innovations in hair coloring, highlights brighten and add shine. Highlights work best on blonde to warm shades of gold, honey, amber, and reds and can be applied with permanent hair color, but after time should be carried out colour balancing by addressing root issues and refreshing the previous colour with a gentle formulation

Problems can and will arise when continued permanent colour is continuously laid over previously coloured hair.

Low lights:
A hair coloring technique that adds real depth to hair color.  low lights add darker tones and soften the look of over-lightened hair or add dimension to hair color that looks flat. A skilled stylist can weave up to three different colors into your hair by pulling a few strands here and there through a weave cap for a subtle look or foiling chunks of your hair for a dramatic, trendy look. this process can be applied with various shades can also be very effective when wanting to add darker shades of colour
putting darker low lights can add as much dimension and tone as introducing lighter shade.
It is worth noting. That when going tone on tone and darker that a Demi formulation is sufficient when going darker we do not have to lift hair as part of the process. a common mistake made! if you go darker with a permanent colour you will introduce warmth to the chosen shade!

Refreshing: 
Brightens and enhances old flat hair color by applying a semi-permanent glaze in a richer tone over a permanent shade.

 Paneling /Chunks: 
Takes large, random sections of hair and infuses them with new color. or dramatic Blonde it is a hair coloring technique that gives dramatic impact to your hairstyle, often by adding vibrant shades and bright trendy colors to natural hair color.

Hair Coloring Technique Processes
 that are used most often are highlighting and low lights. Many different methods are used to achieve this effect. It's my opinion the one that needs the least skill, is when your stylist pulls small strands through holes in the weave cap. The effect is usually a subtle change that enhances your basic hair color the cap tends to not get as close to the root as other techniques and the holes dictate where the highlight goes with a cap only one shade can be applied at a time.
Foiling: 
Your stylist places sections of hair onto rectangular sheets of foil and applies color or lightener, folding the foil to keep the color in place and away from other sections. Of all highlighting techniques, foiling can be applied closest to the root. many different techniques and products for this method papers foil
it is favored by professionals and colour technicians.

freehand painting:
A great application for textured, natural curls, or wavy hair. Your stylist selects specific areas and hand paints them with color. working with the wave and the way the hair naturally falls this  technique creates a dramatic implementation of a hair coloring technique leaves you with a very “personal” appearance!
It’s important to note that although kits are available for most all hair coloring techniques. Professional stylists have the skill that comes with experience. Especially for hard to color shades like Grey, platinum, and black hair. It would be recommended to consult a professional if you intend to try a new hair color technique at home!  products designed for home use do not perform in the same manner as professional colour and techniques and application come with training and experience.

For many blog topic's and to leave comment join and follow oh have fun but be professional.