Hair salon the price of success!

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

This topic comes to mind because of the changes and challenge we see in our industry. As we struggle to look for new ways new initiatives. Ways to move forward and grow both as salon and as individual stylists. Or as team sharing the same vision a collaboration of views and thinking.
For change to happen we have to want it. We have to be prepared to work .We have to challenge everything we know hoping for change is not enough. We have to take a step back and see that we need to do things differently make positive changes.
We cannot expect a different out come or result if we keep doing the same things in some cases making the same mistakes or errors.
We have to take responsibility and stop blaming circumstances external forces or others! We have to avoid being drawn in to the competitive down spiral of the discounting for business game.

I was chatting with my wife Cindy with today. We were talking about hotels and how so many no longer offer the luxury items we so like. Those free bath products that pack of chocolates that complimentary  sparkling water.
It's not free it's factored into the price. The point being the bigger slightly more expensive hotels are still busy and doing well. Whilst the smaller cheaper one struggle compete and yes discount against each other creating a cheap discount market one where something has to give.That thing being service and the experience.  Competing creating a discount market is negative destructive some one has to lose !! Why is this?

We agreed it's because although the larger hotels are more expensive. They are providing an experience we feel pampered. We all like to feel special!! Are you getting the idea. Luxury, excellence, high standards of service delivered by highly skilled professionals. These are not in the same grouping as cheap discount short changed businesses struggling to stay afloat!
What do you prefer when paying for something special unforgettable or  a cheap very forgettable experience?

The Price of success is?
To honestly take a step back in some cases seek help takes a real want for change. Ask the questions. What should i change? How can i change it. Why should I ? Will it make a difference. If your honest it will. If your willing to take up the challenge to do things differently it will.  It's changing your mind set. It's suggesting specialisation. It's creating the place that is special. That place that clients have to be seen in have to be a part of it's creating that something so unique so special that experience thats unforgettable. Was this not your vision when you set out? It should have been!

It applies to your salon. It apples if your a booth or chair renter in salon. It's skill it's your creative talent but what remembered is the experience.Those extra lengths you go to that extra service you provide.
Maybe take some time for this needs some thought and reflection.

Ask yourself some tuff questions. Give your self some honest answer's:

What makes you stand out? What makes you unique? What makes what you do special?
If nothing it's time for a list to make some change.  Remember it's the experience not the discount ! Clients do not remember the discount they do remember the experience. ! What can you do about this?
One thing is very clear booth an chair rental is growing as a business option driven by the demand of the client. Salon owners have a responsibility when developing a booth rental establishment to present a stylish and professional image. The booth renter responsibility is to the service offered but also maintaining the image and appearance to still work with the salon owner to develop the salon and culture no free passes. To develop a reputation as a place of excellence for creative and skilled professionals to work. Both salon and business owners and the stylist running a booth rental business need to work together embrace this new growing opportunity. Collaborate to develop a location a business that works for all parties. Share that vision!!!

This web site my blog all set up to help and offer advise. but also to raise question get you thinking.I'm happy to help just contact me we can talk over your situation finds ways forward have a Skype call put am action plan in place. The development and resources page is there to offer help and support.
all you have to do is Ask reach out change can happen you just have to want it ! DO YOU ?
Mike B2MR.

Thoughts on haircutting the process

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic's

Following in the steps of our make over article some food for thought

A place to share thoughts: review hair colour, products and techniques.

I'm often asked how many different hair cuts are there ? My first thought was thousands but then if one really thinks about it well it's quite an interesting thought process.

We need to think this through a little!

Long.             Anything past shoulder blades

Medium.        Shoulder blades up to nape or chin length

Short.            Anything above this.

Remember this is my thought process into the question asked not a definitive way of assessing or going about cutting or assessment of length or look, just sharing thoughts views on the process! My thought went to layers why layers. well at the end of the day if not all one length then layers to some degree or another make form the shape. It could be argued that layers are required for a perfect on length look for that wonderful swing and movement!

We must not forget techniques, slide cutting, castle thinning shear, razor Cutting, and the many other tools we have at out disposal but these are techniques if you like artistic license, freestyle cutting.The basic's don't change the length and degree of layering.Shape form, weight distribution. This sounds to simplistic all hair cuts are length and shape created by degree's of layering. Simple it's not because with this description we have to consider the real part creative talent, skill training. Any hair cut however basic or however complicated is a mixture and blend of above techniques.

What is a hair cut:

A hair cut is weight distribution it is having understanding of when cutting hair off where it will fall and lie how it will contribute to the final shape. It is being able to see and imagine shape. Someone once said a great hairdresser should see a shape in 3D know how it will look, I think this a perfect analogy.

A great hair cut is a blend of the degree of laying but having a full understanding of weight distribution and a vision to see shape.

The key is that consultation. On length and shape but also first and foremost to understand that if you put a weight line in with your fist cut it will dictate the whole cut it can make the difference between good bad average or just not good.

What ever we are doing creating has to start with a foundation. If you do this a weight line can be moved as a shape forms if you commit to it off the bat by dictating from the crown you have know room for change maybe that odd growth pattern double crown all things that can cause issue!

It can also be said that one length really is only when cut to 1/8th of an inch all over and left to grow but this would only be true as it grows out if you turned the person up side down. but then we are back into weight distribution why because you cannot cut a straight line on a curved surface and given the shape of the head we have thousands of curves and angles to play with hence understanding weight distribution.

I think that angles on the head could be by think about a fan placing on the crown open it up  many angles now place on crown different direction again many angles how to they the work together? These two shots above and below highlight perfectly bad hair i really don't know whats worse 1/ That maybe the lady likes this look? Or 2/ slightly worse that she paid for it and a professional thought this acceptable. It's really bad

As an exercise try this:

Stand behind your client take a section across the crown about 3inches wide comb it straight up now look below your fingers at the section the distance from the crown to your fingers is less in the middle than the distance on the out side of section, why because of the curve of the scalp so it follows that it will be be straight when it falls. Now take that same section and lean it to the left as you do this the hair from the right and into  middle of the section will fall away carry on with the hair traveling to the left of the section the further you go the more will fall away. This is weight distribution!

The hair cut is a hair creation. A style. A look. A fashion setting trend. A statement of individuality. If all of these are the case. Why as stylist do we in so many cases stick in so many cases to cutting the same look on everyone? Without any thought to some very basic points or stick to the safe options on the styles we can create. Will is suite this Client? Do they have the right hair type and features? Can they carry it off?

An example of a make over: Razor cut:

As stylists we owe it to both ourselves and our customers Clients to advise in an honest way on what might work be suitable look good, If we don't do this are we really doing our job to it's fullest are we being real professional are we being honest?

ready for a make over the next day she gave birth!

I ask these questions of my self constantly do you? We live in a society that for the most part is very accepting and tolerant of most things, People come in all shapes sizes have different needs desires aspirations all good but we as hair stylist have to take a lead and advise honestly what looks good what will not work.

When thinking about shape texture a look should we not consider the type of hair fine, thick, curly, growth patters at the nape of the neck to the hair line will that fringe {Bang }work for this client and her life style? If i cut this harsh blunt line at the nape will the hair lie the way i want it to? or will it always look lop sided? will that fringe work can i over layer ? yes you can should i add texture? questions to ask your self!

Should i cut a harsh line maybe it should be softer! Why do you see so many men with lop sided cuts? Answer no account was taken for the way the hair grows! just because you combed it flat against his neck cut a perfect strait line does not mean it will lie this way!

At this juncture you may be laughing or thinking this is not me maybe not if so great you are one of the few. I think the fault with these issues lies in training or lack their of! to little time spent on the basic points key to understanding how to build and create a great cut!

well quite the change

Shape  for Example:

when will we stop re vamping the Bob with the chewed up wings the spaniel look! every look has it day but this one is done and oh so dusted, half the women wearing it should not be! In some cases the lines created are just wrong a heavy women with a thick set does not need a strong blunt line emphasising no neck round shoulders. Think about this really fine hair textured within an inch of its life for that shattered edgy look around the chin will it does it work?

The same can be said for cutting this shape into wavy curly hair the line will not hold in the nape area and the length left again around the chin line will curl up looking like to Brillo pads, yes it looks great when she leaves the salon you have hot ironed it with an inch of it's life, guess what it's raining it's Grey it's damp what it's going to look like?

We need to consider these things as professional is a bad look a good representation of out skill and ability will it get us recommendation will it get us client retention? It's all about honest it's all about that consultation it's all about your standard your skill your passion your ability.

Razor cut side view lots of movement and texture

My question is. Can you be honest does any of this apply to you? We are none of us perfect but we have to question our choices. We have to raise the bar we have to have skill, passion and a real desire to make a difference! DO YOU!

These shots are of a young mum to be. She was heavily pregnant hated how she looked and felt. She came into the salon I was working at her words were. I have been to three salons today I want all my hair off  a total change. No one will do it they look at me like a crazy pregnant women.  I smiled said i will. she said really. As you can see the rest is history! next day she gave birth . She called me three days later to thank me.

To share, to seek new knowledge, skills and techniques to share experience is to grow!

Mike B2MR

I would love feed back on this through this blog article or my web site:

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

Double Your Salon Sales - or else

The Salon Success Club

Make over colour correction

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

                            What is the hardest challenge in a hair colour make cut make over?
Firstly and foremost it has to be a situation with really challenging colour correction.
This leads nicely on to the hardest form of colour correction. What might that be? Over processed Mud coloured hair.
This situation is normally created when hair has been over coloured then in an attempt to fix it goes wrong.It is cause when all the shades neutralise each other out creating a muddy dull life less colour and really poor condition. This type of situation happens a great deal and can be very challenging to correct

Below we have a model with one such issue. She was blonde home coloured kit,Went to salon for help to take it back to a solid more natural colour with a view to getting it back in to condition and then over time have it looked after professionally.
Result the Salon took on the job they had no idea how to rebuild a pigment base in the hair  the result speaks for it self. Frankly when I saw this I was appalled that a salon could do this and charge for it. Not to mention let the client leave in such a nasty state.

The Fix:
After much consultation honest discussion it was agreed that a great deal of the really damaged hair had to come off.The model agreed that any colour that would look healthy and work with her skin tone and eye colour would work  as a starting point to hair recovery.
My challenge was what colour could i get this too!!!
Firstly I had to remove the muddy shade without over processing the hair more. A bleach cocktail worked into the hair a mixture of.

If making up a cocktail to lift old shades out try.

*1/2 oz Clarifying shampoo.

*1oz      Water.

*1oz       20 vol peroxide {or cream developer}

*1 oz      powder bleach.

Apply to clean towel dried hair, work through on area needing lift for 5 to 10 mins. watching all the time wash out rinse thoroughly.

Once this has been done and desired level of lift has been achieved we now have a canvas to work on and from.

It was decided that allowing for some fading and possible future change in direction of colour. That a warm or red tone would be a great way forward. Warmer tones will always give you a better base than cool or ash tones they will also allow you more flexibility to change and switch direction.  

It is also my feeling that when re building a pigment base on does not have to nor should use permanent colour formulation [why put more peroxide on over processed hair?] Demi formulation are all you need along with some patients as you build up the required pigment mantle.

  

 It amy seem like it is a slow process but applying different layers of colour over each other in the long term will give you much better colour retention.

Above is the result we managed to achieve and the look was created using a razor to give a soft shattered bob with lots movement and texture.
The result healthy looking hair a happy client who over the following months grew her hair out to being long and blonde with highlights and low lights. It took time and patients communication consultation .That is what we do in our profession service skill honesty always be professional.
  

Bad hair! ? low standards. Unprofessional!

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic's

If it's a bad look done at home it's sad. If it's a bad look and not very well executed cut style or colour done professionally that's even worse.
Why is it? how is some people can go out without looking in the mirror and being honest asking the question. Does this look good?
As stylist we need to remember that a client leaving the salon is our walking promotion.It's a free walking bill board or the reason why your not getting recommended. Standards creative skill. consultation with clients about what will work!
below some examples of bad looks and why!
over processed candy cane hair bleached within an inch of it's life shapeless hair cut looking like she stuck a finger in a electric socket! would you be proud of this creation?

When you see bad hair out in public do you ever think? What was going through the person mind who created that? Or do they know how bad that looks? Did they pay for that?  I do it amazes me what stylist's can do produce that is deemed acceptable. How low standards can get. What poor standards people will accept as looking good !

The same can be said for dress sense looking in the mirror and thinking maybe not! Or for me this hair do is wrong on so many levels. Its shape well lack of ! Its colour. In this case a stylist has taken three looks and tried to join them together very badly.

I'm not sure if the nape and the nasty line there .The crown and that flat bald like area . Or the weight line carried round to the sides and face. It's just wrong on all levels.
Oh! Perfect a side view to show off what I am trying to point out! No flow. Disconnection it not an excuse for total shapeless mess. The crown area is two short and blunt . Cutting hair short does not create height! or volume. Texture does with shears or a razor and an understanding of weight shape and form, well that and styling.

This to me looks like she turned her head up side down and blasted it with a hairdryer. Sadly the shape or lack there of does allow for a lazy styling approach .The blonde is a nothing colour dull patchy leopard spotting caused by over layering coloured area's. No thought has been given to shape look or colour not to mentions the clients features and dress sense or lack of.
This is all a classic example of not caring and low standards. In this instance. The stylist not only let's the client down but also them selves for it is no advert  to produce work like this.

Want more? Ok How about this look:

What does this say to you? Would you produce this ? Would you be proud to say this totally represents my work and who I am ?  Hum not so much ha!
Again really bad choice of colours and look. Whether the client did this her self or paid for it .Well it's a rat's nest. Why do people go out looking like this. Because they really take very little time to think does this look good ! do I feel good! If your a stylist looking at this say to your self I am better than this ! If you are  a client then say! From now on I will take time to make an effort to look and feel good.

In closing It is possible to see a look that works that is well done I think that it was the  contrast of these three women all taken at the same location that set this topic in motion.

For me this is a well executed little cut. A really well done colour it work and suites the women. I hope this brings my point home that as stylist's we have to consider so much not just a hair do. we have to work with and cater for all sorts and types!
But life style. The way the client looks. What she wears. Does she really care about appearance. Some women don't getting a hair cut or colour is just a routine event,We have the skill and ability to make a difference to open their eye's
Where does all this start With the image we present and the service  the consultation the honest sound advise we offer. can you do you do this ? Do you really care? Don't be any thing other than the very best you can. Never settle for second best as a Stylist or as a client.
We attract what we project and present that look that say's this is me. Or as a stylist's it says. This is what i can do for you. Standards never let them slip !!!! Mike B2MR

Hair Cuts styles techniques

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic's

Following in the steps of our make over article some food for thought

 A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.


When asked how many different hair cuts are their? my first thought was thousands but then if one really thinks about it well it's quite an interesting thought process.
We need to break it down thinks i !
Long.            lets say anything past shoulder blades
Medium.       shoulder blades up to nape or chin length
Short.            anything above this.
Remember this is my thought process into the question asked not a definitive way of assessing or going about cutting, back to the plot!
So next my thought went to layers why layers well at the end of the day if not all one length then layers to some degree or another make form the shape.
It could be argued that layers are required for a perfect on length look for that wonderful swing and movement!

So yes we must not forget techniques, slide cutting, castle thinning shear, razor Cutting, and the many other tools we have at out disposal but these are techniques if you like artistic license, freestyle cutting.
But the basic's don't change the length and degree of layering.

So all hair cuts are length and shape created by degree's of layering this sounds very simplistic but it's not because with this description we have to consider the real part creative talent, skill training,

Any hair cut however basic or however complicated is a mixture and bend of above techniques.
A hair cut is weight distribution it is having understanding of when cutting hair off where it will fall and lie how it will contribute to the final shape. It is being able to see and imagine shape. someone once said a great hairdresser should see a shape in 3D know how it will look, I think this a perfect analogy.
A great hair cut is a blend of the degree of laying but having a full understanding of weight distribution and a vision to see shape.
The key is that consultation on length and shape but also first and foremost to understand that if you put a weight line in with your fist cut it will dictate the whole cut it can make the difference between good bad average or just not good.
What ever we are doing creating has to start with a foundation if you do this a weight line can be moved as a shape forms if you commit to it off the bat you have know room  for change maybe maybe that odd growth pattern double crown all things that can cause issue!
It can also be said that one length really is only when cut to 1/8th of an inch all over and left to grow but this would only be true as it grows out if you turned the person up side down. but then we are back into weight distribution why because you cannot cut a straight line on a curved surface and given the shape of the head we have thousands of curves and angles to play with hence understanding weight distribution.
I think that angles on the head could be by think about a fan placing on the crown open it up  many angles now place on crown different direction again many angles how to they the work together?
As an exercise try this.
Stand behind your client take a section across the crown about 3inches wide comb it straight up
now look below your fingers at the section the distance from the crown to your fingers is less in the middle than the distance on the out side of section, why because of the curve of the scalp so it follows that it will be be straight when it falls. Now take that same section and lean it to the left as you do this the hair from the right and into  middle of the section will fall away carry on with the hair traveling to the left of the section the further you go the more will fall away. This is weight distribution!
I would so happily discuss this with anyone it's so complicated to put into words and yet such an interesting topic.
What are your thoughts?  Mike B2MR

Creating texture razor hair cuts

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic's http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea's on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Razor hair cutting tools and skill


This started out as a razor cutting blog. Exciting and easy for me as razor cutting is my passion second only to hair colouring.
So it's my hope you enjoy this and it pushes those buttons to get you wanting to explore the world of razor techniques.
The various techniques the creative texture can that can be created. Soft looks with  unlimited movement and no demarcation lines. It has been over 15years since I last  cut hair with scissors.
This has been a wonderful journey for me into understanding how hair falls. How to create shape and form. working with clients in this time i have not had a single client request from a client to go back to using scissors. Or any complaints about the shape look or way it has grown out. why is this? I hope this article explains all.


So down to Business

cut throat razor

How to do a razor Cut:  
When we think Razor cutting. I think in most cases ones thought go directly to our friend the cut throat or open razor. A valuable tool indeed. A tool that needs to be respected a tool not to fear:

Learning how to do. A razor cut How to use the tools to create wonderful new free textured looks comes with much practice and Experience.
That is not saying don't try but don't just slash away without thought to shape and weight distribution.
My personal opinion is that one should have a full understanding of hair cutting creating forming building shape before playing with razors.

Hand drawn the angles i process when building shape:

To get the most out of razor cutting one has to understand weight distribution, hair growth patterns, texture, how to build shape and form. Can you do you visualize the shape you want to create in 3D before you start? when finished does it look the way you hoped?
Master the art of scissor cutting and indeed thinning and texture shears before moving on.

With the sketch on the right i'm trying to show the curve plains on the head the curves directly impact the angles and so the weight distribution and shape we create,
These angles have to be considered and understood to be able to do frees style hair cutting:

Over the years i have seen so many hairdressers using thinning shears to cut hair when you ask them what do you think what your doing will do to the shape they look blankly or say thinning and texture of course yes but what about the shape the weight distribution!



Maybe you don't agree with me that's great let share  exchange some thoughts?
I have been doing hair for many years i remember the first time the penny dropped
with regard to weight distribution and creating shape! It was so exciting it was like someone turned on a light.

{ this was well over 20 years ago her name was Lesley

The claw's

  and i gave her an amazing Scissor hair cut memories}

To this day I still get that buzz when it
just works!


So these little sucker's claw's:
I diverse a little these are amazing on thick hair Asian hair I have cut a really textured Bob just using these but again you have to understand weight and shape and how hair falls moves and swings.




They have little blades as you use them the more pressure you apply with your fingers they hair will be removed as you drag them down the shaft in a combing motion as you can see below on this short little hair cut.

Me working with the claw's on a model:

{LEFT ME CUTTING WITH THE CLAW'S}


Maybe I'm getting ahead of things lessons demonstration are the best way to learn these skills: I would be happy to share them with any one who would like a class.
their are so many techniques available to us with a razor and indeed so many different types of razor. 

A skilled person can cut a Blunt Bob even use razor over comb, do layered cut, feather a fringe the sky is the limit My favorite tool is a feather razor i use this instead of scissors and cut hair in little points rather than a strait line. { Think about the shape of the head the angles you create?}  you cannot cut a strait line on a curved surface you create the illusion of this!  cool ha.



                               The right razor for the job:  
                               It has to be a feather style razor: 

I use Kashio Blades they have the best edge and last the longest maybe a few hair cuts over a year i may spend the same amount as a good pair of scissors but think about how nice it is to have a new fresh blade it glides through the hair. { it is by choice the tool of my trade}


It is widely thought that razor cutting is only suitable on certain types of hair in my experience this is not the case.
What needs to be considered is the technique that you are going to use to get the best out of any given hair type.
Once you get to this level of understanding their is no right or wrong way to do a razor cut it becomes a new art form freestyle cutting.

I was inspired by a dear friend whilst working in Vancouver at the time he was Artistic Director  for L'anza USA {Mr john Bertorelli } What John could do with a razor was and is to this day an inspiration a true artist i owe him a great deal he encouraged me to push my boundaries to step into the unknown i  did and have never looked back.
I became a platform artist working for L'anza Canada as a Colour educator and also teaching razor cutting. 

Crystal blade razor:glass blade

{This little baby is a glass crystal razor}
   
In days gone bye i spent a great deal of time one summer cutting hair on the beach in Greece imagine this sea, sand, beer, hair cuts maybe not the best combination in the world {right!} but did you know that you can cut hair with a broken beer bottle the glass get dull very quickly but you can do a great cut.
Well that story was needed because the a razor to the right has a glass blade and it was through messing around in Greece that i knew when i found this tool that it had many applications:

Amazing for texture long and indeed curly hair so all those beers on the beach in Greece were not wasted it was an investment in my art.

When it comes to style creating that new look have fun
Challenge your self push the envelope get new skills invest in your self go on course
learn new techniques watch others share idea's we never stop learning we just have to keep moving forward!
A great place to find razors shears and interact with on their face book page committed to professional tools for professional stylists:

I have a group page for thoughts and discussions leave comments. or join follow this blog here.
Exploring techniques with a razor will open up a hole new world of creativity:
If you need would like help encouragement group or individual instruction I'm sure i could help you reach a new level of expertise.  
Mike B2MR
http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/
full contact details on my web site:





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