Make over colour correction

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

                            What is the hardest challenge in a hair colour make cut make over?
Firstly and foremost it has to be a situation with really challenging colour correction.
This leads nicely on to the hardest form of colour correction. What might that be? Over processed Mud coloured hair.
This situation is normally created when hair has been over coloured then in an attempt to fix it goes wrong.It is cause when all the shades neutralise each other out creating a muddy dull life less colour and really poor condition. This type of situation happens a great deal and can be very challenging to correct

Below we have a model with one such issue. She was blonde home coloured kit,Went to salon for help to take it back to a solid more natural colour with a view to getting it back in to condition and then over time have it looked after professionally.
Result the Salon took on the job they had no idea how to rebuild a pigment base in the hair  the result speaks for it self. Frankly when I saw this I was appalled that a salon could do this and charge for it. Not to mention let the client leave in such a nasty state.

The Fix:
After much consultation honest discussion it was agreed that a great deal of the really damaged hair had to come off.The model agreed that any colour that would look healthy and work with her skin tone and eye colour would work  as a starting point to hair recovery.
My challenge was what colour could i get this too!!!
Firstly I had to remove the muddy shade without over processing the hair more. A bleach cocktail worked into the hair a mixture of.

If making up a cocktail to lift old shades out try.

*1/2 oz Clarifying shampoo.

*1oz      Water.

*1oz       20 vol peroxide {or cream developer}

*1 oz      powder bleach.

Apply to clean towel dried hair, work through on area needing lift for 5 to 10 mins. watching all the time wash out rinse thoroughly.

Once this has been done and desired level of lift has been achieved we now have a canvas to work on and from.

It was decided that allowing for some fading and possible future change in direction of colour. That a warm or red tone would be a great way forward. Warmer tones will always give you a better base than cool or ash tones they will also allow you more flexibility to change and switch direction.  

It is also my feeling that when re building a pigment base on does not have to nor should use permanent colour formulation [why put more peroxide on over processed hair?] Demi formulation are all you need along with some patients as you build up the required pigment mantle.

  

 It amy seem like it is a slow process but applying different layers of colour over each other in the long term will give you much better colour retention.

Above is the result we managed to achieve and the look was created using a razor to give a soft shattered bob with lots movement and texture.
The result healthy looking hair a happy client who over the following months grew her hair out to being long and blonde with highlights and low lights. It took time and patients communication consultation .That is what we do in our profession service skill honesty always be professional.
  

Bad hair! ? low standards. Unprofessional!

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If it's a bad look done at home it's sad. If it's a bad look and not very well executed cut style or colour done professionally that's even worse.
Why is it? how is some people can go out without looking in the mirror and being honest asking the question. Does this look good?
As stylist we need to remember that a client leaving the salon is our walking promotion.It's a free walking bill board or the reason why your not getting recommended. Standards creative skill. consultation with clients about what will work!
below some examples of bad looks and why!
over processed candy cane hair bleached within an inch of it's life shapeless hair cut looking like she stuck a finger in a electric socket! would you be proud of this creation?

When you see bad hair out in public do you ever think? What was going through the person mind who created that? Or do they know how bad that looks? Did they pay for that?  I do it amazes me what stylist's can do produce that is deemed acceptable. How low standards can get. What poor standards people will accept as looking good !

The same can be said for dress sense looking in the mirror and thinking maybe not! Or for me this hair do is wrong on so many levels. Its shape well lack of ! Its colour. In this case a stylist has taken three looks and tried to join them together very badly.

I'm not sure if the nape and the nasty line there .The crown and that flat bald like area . Or the weight line carried round to the sides and face. It's just wrong on all levels.
Oh! Perfect a side view to show off what I am trying to point out! No flow. Disconnection it not an excuse for total shapeless mess. The crown area is two short and blunt . Cutting hair short does not create height! or volume. Texture does with shears or a razor and an understanding of weight shape and form, well that and styling.

This to me looks like she turned her head up side down and blasted it with a hairdryer. Sadly the shape or lack there of does allow for a lazy styling approach .The blonde is a nothing colour dull patchy leopard spotting caused by over layering coloured area's. No thought has been given to shape look or colour not to mentions the clients features and dress sense or lack of.
This is all a classic example of not caring and low standards. In this instance. The stylist not only let's the client down but also them selves for it is no advert  to produce work like this.

Want more? Ok How about this look:

What does this say to you? Would you produce this ? Would you be proud to say this totally represents my work and who I am ?  Hum not so much ha!
Again really bad choice of colours and look. Whether the client did this her self or paid for it .Well it's a rat's nest. Why do people go out looking like this. Because they really take very little time to think does this look good ! do I feel good! If your a stylist looking at this say to your self I am better than this ! If you are  a client then say! From now on I will take time to make an effort to look and feel good.

In closing It is possible to see a look that works that is well done I think that it was the  contrast of these three women all taken at the same location that set this topic in motion.

For me this is a well executed little cut. A really well done colour it work and suites the women. I hope this brings my point home that as stylist's we have to consider so much not just a hair do. we have to work with and cater for all sorts and types!
But life style. The way the client looks. What she wears. Does she really care about appearance. Some women don't getting a hair cut or colour is just a routine event,We have the skill and ability to make a difference to open their eye's
Where does all this start With the image we present and the service  the consultation the honest sound advise we offer. can you do you do this ? Do you really care? Don't be any thing other than the very best you can. Never settle for second best as a Stylist or as a client.
We attract what we project and present that look that say's this is me. Or as a stylist's it says. This is what i can do for you. Standards never let them slip !!!! Mike B2MR

The Art of the up /do continued

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When I first started in the hair industry the thought of putting hair up. Being asked to do some hair for a graduation or wedding totally freaked me out.
The reason for this was fear! fear of screwing up fear of not knowing what i was doing fear of looking an idiot.
I muddled my way through doing wedding hair but never feeling very confident it was not fun!


That was the way until I met and worked with a wonderful man and now dear friend.
Mr Jon Paul Holt owner of Avant-Garde artistic Studio Vancouver Canada winner of so many awards and accolades. I was fortunate enough to be a member of his Artistic team and learned so much from him. As he challenged me to work with him on photo shoots and stage shows.

http://www.avantgardehair.com/

 Jon paul taught me to enjoy playing with hair learn from handling it trying to create a look.
As a medium you can create so many styles and shapes.

My dear friends from Vancouver  fab hair stylists Jon paul Holt,
Ted Mc Kinnon outside Avant-garde Yale town Vancouver Canada.
Ted a master of the up/do and wedding hair.

Consultation with a client to establish the look, does it need to be a conventional look for a wedding or graduation. One must have a clear idea of what the client wants, but it's also so important to have a vision in your mind practice is key.

This series to the left and right were for a graduation a classic look pre coloured low lighted hair using a high lift Blonde on a natural level 4 base.
The low lights compliment the look by giving it texture and showing off the shape.
Building a shape likes this takes a little practice and patients but it's well worth it.

note: Using a high lift Blonde on dark hair will always give a very natural low light as it will only lift max of 4 levels depending on developer used. One should consider the pigment base of the Highlift shade ie ash beige violet ect!

A Slightly more Avantgarde look using
a few coloured hair  pieces.
Also using a medium to Sculpture a look to Create a hat look.
Slightly edgy but would work well for wedding or Graduation on some one with the confidence to carry it off.
Never force someone to wear a look that they are not comfortable with!

 The key is practice and communication knowing that one has to play and get a feel for the hair the way it moves the shapes it wants to form . Always consider the clients needs and expectations if it's for a wedding or social event in-fact anything you are being paid for.  If it's a model for your own design collect, be it. A shoot. A show or competition then, they should be made fully aware of what they are getting into what is expected from them. some times a model waiver is a good idea.
When playing their is no such thing as failure it's more a case of taking a journey of discovery a firm foundation to build from.
As stated hair colour can also play a key roll to show off a look give it texture and dimension.

By playing and practice you can find the look that works with the hair and suites your client soft and low high with softness so much choice.
Have the confidence to step out side your comfort zone but don't be made to feel uncomfortable when working with a client for a big event or occasion if their is a difference of opinion of a personality clash my advise would be suggest that you part agreeing to differ if is to short and weddings and big formal events expectation run high who needs that stress!

classic elegance

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natural and loose

Unless they are modeling for you for a show or photo Shoot then well it's your call. enjoy have fun challenge your self.

formal wedding