Make over colour correction

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

                            What is the hardest challenge in a hair colour make cut make over?
Firstly and foremost it has to be a situation with really challenging colour correction.
This leads nicely on to the hardest form of colour correction. What might that be? Over processed Mud coloured hair.
This situation is normally created when hair has been over coloured then in an attempt to fix it goes wrong.It is cause when all the shades neutralise each other out creating a muddy dull life less colour and really poor condition. This type of situation happens a great deal and can be very challenging to correct

Below we have a model with one such issue. She was blonde home coloured kit,Went to salon for help to take it back to a solid more natural colour with a view to getting it back in to condition and then over time have it looked after professionally.
Result the Salon took on the job they had no idea how to rebuild a pigment base in the hair  the result speaks for it self. Frankly when I saw this I was appalled that a salon could do this and charge for it. Not to mention let the client leave in such a nasty state.

The Fix:
After much consultation honest discussion it was agreed that a great deal of the really damaged hair had to come off.The model agreed that any colour that would look healthy and work with her skin tone and eye colour would work  as a starting point to hair recovery.
My challenge was what colour could i get this too!!!
Firstly I had to remove the muddy shade without over processing the hair more. A bleach cocktail worked into the hair a mixture of.

If making up a cocktail to lift old shades out try.

*1/2 oz Clarifying shampoo.

*1oz      Water.

*1oz       20 vol peroxide {or cream developer}

*1 oz      powder bleach.

Apply to clean towel dried hair, work through on area needing lift for 5 to 10 mins. watching all the time wash out rinse thoroughly.

Once this has been done and desired level of lift has been achieved we now have a canvas to work on and from.

It was decided that allowing for some fading and possible future change in direction of colour. That a warm or red tone would be a great way forward. Warmer tones will always give you a better base than cool or ash tones they will also allow you more flexibility to change and switch direction.  

It is also my feeling that when re building a pigment base on does not have to nor should use permanent colour formulation [why put more peroxide on over processed hair?] Demi formulation are all you need along with some patients as you build up the required pigment mantle.

  

 It amy seem like it is a slow process but applying different layers of colour over each other in the long term will give you much better colour retention.

Above is the result we managed to achieve and the look was created using a razor to give a soft shattered bob with lots movement and texture.
The result healthy looking hair a happy client who over the following months grew her hair out to being long and blonde with highlights and low lights. It took time and patients communication consultation .That is what we do in our profession service skill honesty always be professional.
  

A hair make over.

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

A make over can make such a difference to a client.

It can change how they look and feel about them selves It can change how they act and relate to others.

Our role as a stylist is to offer sound advise offer solutions be creative. But we must always consider what we have to work with and on. 

Remember it's scissors or a razor it's not a wand! consider the clients features hair type life style.

Its called the consultation. It's when we communicate  we listen we use our professional skills.Our time to shine. 

This model young women came into the salon she was very heavily pregnant and stressed. She asked could would any one cut her hair off . Well i stood back and watched as things played out in the salon.

As follows:

The receptionist was concerned that the women was asking for a hair cut on impulse being so pregnant.

She asked members of staff who were free if they would like to cut this ladies hair both looked her up and down and said No saying she should not be doing this she cannot have thought it through.

Well think I make over time seeing this woman who said she had tried 3 other salons and been turned away .A challenge I would be happy to work with you on a new look.When is your baby due it's late she says I'm having it tomorrow!!! Ok then lets sit you down and have a chat!!

During the consultation it was agreed  that half measures was not going to work.She had long hair but leaving it long enough to tie back would just create more work and be boring. She agreed to trust me.I explained that i don't use scissors only a razor and off we went.

  

Now remember 39 weeks pregnant  oh and this shot taken with an old polaroid camera that i still keep handy .So lots of hair and a fringe or as bangs to work around. let the make over begin!!

                     Same day same model same clothes! just a touch of lip stick and a new look !! what do you think?

I was very happy with the look! New Mum to be cried she was so happy. Other clients in the salon Gob smacked at the change!! Easy to manage dry with her fingers .She had the baby the next day a little girl.

She called me some weeks later to thank me again for the change and the look. What we do is just so worth while we can change lives.We can make a difference. One client at a time.

Mike B2MR