Thoughts on haircutting the process

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic's

Following in the steps of our make over article some food for thought

A place to share thoughts: review hair colour, products and techniques.

I'm often asked how many different hair cuts are there ? My first thought was thousands but then if one really thinks about it well it's quite an interesting thought process.

We need to think this through a little!

Long.             Anything past shoulder blades

Medium.        Shoulder blades up to nape or chin length

Short.            Anything above this.

Remember this is my thought process into the question asked not a definitive way of assessing or going about cutting or assessment of length or look, just sharing thoughts views on the process! My thought went to layers why layers. well at the end of the day if not all one length then layers to some degree or another make form the shape. It could be argued that layers are required for a perfect on length look for that wonderful swing and movement!

We must not forget techniques, slide cutting, castle thinning shear, razor Cutting, and the many other tools we have at out disposal but these are techniques if you like artistic license, freestyle cutting.The basic's don't change the length and degree of layering.Shape form, weight distribution. This sounds to simplistic all hair cuts are length and shape created by degree's of layering. Simple it's not because with this description we have to consider the real part creative talent, skill training. Any hair cut however basic or however complicated is a mixture and blend of above techniques.

What is a hair cut:

A hair cut is weight distribution it is having understanding of when cutting hair off where it will fall and lie how it will contribute to the final shape. It is being able to see and imagine shape. Someone once said a great hairdresser should see a shape in 3D know how it will look, I think this a perfect analogy.

A great hair cut is a blend of the degree of laying but having a full understanding of weight distribution and a vision to see shape.

The key is that consultation. On length and shape but also first and foremost to understand that if you put a weight line in with your fist cut it will dictate the whole cut it can make the difference between good bad average or just not good.

What ever we are doing creating has to start with a foundation. If you do this a weight line can be moved as a shape forms if you commit to it off the bat by dictating from the crown you have know room for change maybe that odd growth pattern double crown all things that can cause issue!

It can also be said that one length really is only when cut to 1/8th of an inch all over and left to grow but this would only be true as it grows out if you turned the person up side down. but then we are back into weight distribution why because you cannot cut a straight line on a curved surface and given the shape of the head we have thousands of curves and angles to play with hence understanding weight distribution.

I think that angles on the head could be by think about a fan placing on the crown open it up  many angles now place on crown different direction again many angles how to they the work together? These two shots above and below highlight perfectly bad hair i really don't know whats worse 1/ That maybe the lady likes this look? Or 2/ slightly worse that she paid for it and a professional thought this acceptable. It's really bad

As an exercise try this:

Stand behind your client take a section across the crown about 3inches wide comb it straight up now look below your fingers at the section the distance from the crown to your fingers is less in the middle than the distance on the out side of section, why because of the curve of the scalp so it follows that it will be be straight when it falls. Now take that same section and lean it to the left as you do this the hair from the right and into  middle of the section will fall away carry on with the hair traveling to the left of the section the further you go the more will fall away. This is weight distribution!

The hair cut is a hair creation. A style. A look. A fashion setting trend. A statement of individuality. If all of these are the case. Why as stylist do we in so many cases stick in so many cases to cutting the same look on everyone? Without any thought to some very basic points or stick to the safe options on the styles we can create. Will is suite this Client? Do they have the right hair type and features? Can they carry it off?

An example of a make over: Razor cut:

As stylists we owe it to both ourselves and our customers Clients to advise in an honest way on what might work be suitable look good, If we don't do this are we really doing our job to it's fullest are we being real professional are we being honest?

ready for a make over the next day she gave birth!

I ask these questions of my self constantly do you? We live in a society that for the most part is very accepting and tolerant of most things, People come in all shapes sizes have different needs desires aspirations all good but we as hair stylist have to take a lead and advise honestly what looks good what will not work.

When thinking about shape texture a look should we not consider the type of hair fine, thick, curly, growth patters at the nape of the neck to the hair line will that fringe {Bang }work for this client and her life style? If i cut this harsh blunt line at the nape will the hair lie the way i want it to? or will it always look lop sided? will that fringe work can i over layer ? yes you can should i add texture? questions to ask your self!

Should i cut a harsh line maybe it should be softer! Why do you see so many men with lop sided cuts? Answer no account was taken for the way the hair grows! just because you combed it flat against his neck cut a perfect strait line does not mean it will lie this way!

At this juncture you may be laughing or thinking this is not me maybe not if so great you are one of the few. I think the fault with these issues lies in training or lack their of! to little time spent on the basic points key to understanding how to build and create a great cut!

well quite the change

Shape  for Example:

when will we stop re vamping the Bob with the chewed up wings the spaniel look! every look has it day but this one is done and oh so dusted, half the women wearing it should not be! In some cases the lines created are just wrong a heavy women with a thick set does not need a strong blunt line emphasising no neck round shoulders. Think about this really fine hair textured within an inch of its life for that shattered edgy look around the chin will it does it work?

The same can be said for cutting this shape into wavy curly hair the line will not hold in the nape area and the length left again around the chin line will curl up looking like to Brillo pads, yes it looks great when she leaves the salon you have hot ironed it with an inch of it's life, guess what it's raining it's Grey it's damp what it's going to look like?

We need to consider these things as professional is a bad look a good representation of out skill and ability will it get us recommendation will it get us client retention? It's all about honest it's all about that consultation it's all about your standard your skill your passion your ability.

Razor cut side view lots of movement and texture

My question is. Can you be honest does any of this apply to you? We are none of us perfect but we have to question our choices. We have to raise the bar we have to have skill, passion and a real desire to make a difference! DO YOU!

These shots are of a young mum to be. She was heavily pregnant hated how she looked and felt. She came into the salon I was working at her words were. I have been to three salons today I want all my hair off  a total change. No one will do it they look at me like a crazy pregnant women.  I smiled said i will. she said really. As you can see the rest is history! next day she gave birth . She called me three days later to thank me.

To share, to seek new knowledge, skills and techniques to share experience is to grow!

Mike B2MR

I would love feed back on this through this blog article or my web site:

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

Double Your Salon Sales - or else

The Salon Success Club

Hair cut shape form texture

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic's:
A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

Discussing shape and form

The hair Cut, a hair creation, a style, a look, a fashion setting trend, a statement of individuality.
So if all of these are the case why as stylist do we in so many cases stick in so many cases to cutting the same look on everyone with any thought to some very basic points, or stick to the safe options on the styles we can create!
,
Will is suite this Client? Do they have the right hair type and features? Can they carry it off?
As stylists we owe it to both ourselves and our customers Clients to advise in an honest way on what might work be suitable look good, If we don't do this are we really doing our job to it's fullest are we being real professional are we being honest?

ready for a make over the next day she gave birth!

I ask these questions of my self constantly do you? we live in a society that for the most part is very accepting and tolerant of most things, People come in all shapes sizes have different needs desires aspirations all good but we as hair stylist have to take a lead and advise honestly what looks good what will not work.

When thinking about shape texture a look should we not consider the type of hair fine, thick, curly, growth patters at the nape of the neck to the hair line will that fringe {Bang }work for this client and her life style? If i cut this harsh blunt line at the nape will the hair lie the way i want it to? or will it always look lop sided? will that fringe work can i over layer ? yes you can should i add texture? questions to ask your self!
Should i cut a harsh line maybe it should be softer! why do you see so many men with lop sided cuts?
answer no account was taken for the way the hair grows! just because you combed it flat against his neck cut a perfect strait line does not mean it will lie this way!
At this juncture you may be laughing or thinking this is not me maybe not if so great you are one of the few,.
I think the fault with these issues lies in training or lack their of! to little time spent on the basic points key to understanding how to build and create a great cut!

well quite the change

Shape  for Example:
when will we stop re vamping the Bob with the chewed up wings the spaniel look! every look has it day but this one is done and oh so dusted, half the women wearing it should not be! In some cases the lines created are just wrong a heavy women with a thick set does not need a strong blunt line emphasising no neck round shoulders. Think about this really fine hair textured within an inch of its life for that shattered edgy look around the chin will it does it work?
The same can be said for cutting this shape into wavy curly hair the line will not hold in the nape area and the length left again around the chin line will curl up looking like to Brillo pads, yes it looks great when she leaves the salon you have hot ironed it with an inch of it's life, guess what it's raining it's Grey it's damp what it's going to look like?
We need to consider these things as professional is a bad look a good representation of out skill and ability will it get us recommendation will it get us client retention?
It's all about honest it's all about that consultation it's all about your standard your skill your passion your ability.
So my question is Can you be honest does any of this apply to you!

closer look razor cut make over

We are none of us perfect but we have to question our choices, we have to raise the bar we have to have skill, passion and a real desire to make a difference!
DO YOU!
These shots are of a young Mum to be, she was heavily pregnant hated how she looked and felt. She came into the salon I was working at her words were. I have been to three salons today I want all my hair off  a total change. No one will do it they look at me like a crazy pregnant women.  I smiled said i will.
she said really. AS you can see the rest is history! next day she gave birth . She called me three days later to thank me.
To share, to seek new knowledge, skills and techniques to share experience is to grow!
Mike B2MR
I would love feed back on this through this blog article or my web site:
http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

Creating texture razor hair cuts

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic's http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea's on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Razor hair cutting tools and skill


This started out as a razor cutting blog. Exciting and easy for me as razor cutting is my passion second only to hair colouring.
So it's my hope you enjoy this and it pushes those buttons to get you wanting to explore the world of razor techniques.
The various techniques the creative texture can that can be created. Soft looks with  unlimited movement and no demarcation lines. It has been over 15years since I last  cut hair with scissors.
This has been a wonderful journey for me into understanding how hair falls. How to create shape and form. working with clients in this time i have not had a single client request from a client to go back to using scissors. Or any complaints about the shape look or way it has grown out. why is this? I hope this article explains all.


So down to Business

cut throat razor

How to do a razor Cut:  
When we think Razor cutting. I think in most cases ones thought go directly to our friend the cut throat or open razor. A valuable tool indeed. A tool that needs to be respected a tool not to fear:

Learning how to do. A razor cut How to use the tools to create wonderful new free textured looks comes with much practice and Experience.
That is not saying don't try but don't just slash away without thought to shape and weight distribution.
My personal opinion is that one should have a full understanding of hair cutting creating forming building shape before playing with razors.

Hand drawn the angles i process when building shape:

To get the most out of razor cutting one has to understand weight distribution, hair growth patterns, texture, how to build shape and form. Can you do you visualize the shape you want to create in 3D before you start? when finished does it look the way you hoped?
Master the art of scissor cutting and indeed thinning and texture shears before moving on.

With the sketch on the right i'm trying to show the curve plains on the head the curves directly impact the angles and so the weight distribution and shape we create,
These angles have to be considered and understood to be able to do frees style hair cutting:

Over the years i have seen so many hairdressers using thinning shears to cut hair when you ask them what do you think what your doing will do to the shape they look blankly or say thinning and texture of course yes but what about the shape the weight distribution!



Maybe you don't agree with me that's great let share  exchange some thoughts?
I have been doing hair for many years i remember the first time the penny dropped
with regard to weight distribution and creating shape! It was so exciting it was like someone turned on a light.

{ this was well over 20 years ago her name was Lesley

The claw's

  and i gave her an amazing Scissor hair cut memories}

To this day I still get that buzz when it
just works!


So these little sucker's claw's:
I diverse a little these are amazing on thick hair Asian hair I have cut a really textured Bob just using these but again you have to understand weight and shape and how hair falls moves and swings.




They have little blades as you use them the more pressure you apply with your fingers they hair will be removed as you drag them down the shaft in a combing motion as you can see below on this short little hair cut.

Me working with the claw's on a model:

{LEFT ME CUTTING WITH THE CLAW'S}


Maybe I'm getting ahead of things lessons demonstration are the best way to learn these skills: I would be happy to share them with any one who would like a class.
their are so many techniques available to us with a razor and indeed so many different types of razor. 

A skilled person can cut a Blunt Bob even use razor over comb, do layered cut, feather a fringe the sky is the limit My favorite tool is a feather razor i use this instead of scissors and cut hair in little points rather than a strait line. { Think about the shape of the head the angles you create?}  you cannot cut a strait line on a curved surface you create the illusion of this!  cool ha.



                               The right razor for the job:  
                               It has to be a feather style razor: 

I use Kashio Blades they have the best edge and last the longest maybe a few hair cuts over a year i may spend the same amount as a good pair of scissors but think about how nice it is to have a new fresh blade it glides through the hair. { it is by choice the tool of my trade}


It is widely thought that razor cutting is only suitable on certain types of hair in my experience this is not the case.
What needs to be considered is the technique that you are going to use to get the best out of any given hair type.
Once you get to this level of understanding their is no right or wrong way to do a razor cut it becomes a new art form freestyle cutting.

I was inspired by a dear friend whilst working in Vancouver at the time he was Artistic Director  for L'anza USA {Mr john Bertorelli } What John could do with a razor was and is to this day an inspiration a true artist i owe him a great deal he encouraged me to push my boundaries to step into the unknown i  did and have never looked back.
I became a platform artist working for L'anza Canada as a Colour educator and also teaching razor cutting. 

Crystal blade razor:glass blade

{This little baby is a glass crystal razor}
   
In days gone bye i spent a great deal of time one summer cutting hair on the beach in Greece imagine this sea, sand, beer, hair cuts maybe not the best combination in the world {right!} but did you know that you can cut hair with a broken beer bottle the glass get dull very quickly but you can do a great cut.
Well that story was needed because the a razor to the right has a glass blade and it was through messing around in Greece that i knew when i found this tool that it had many applications:

Amazing for texture long and indeed curly hair so all those beers on the beach in Greece were not wasted it was an investment in my art.

When it comes to style creating that new look have fun
Challenge your self push the envelope get new skills invest in your self go on course
learn new techniques watch others share idea's we never stop learning we just have to keep moving forward!
A great place to find razors shears and interact with on their face book page committed to professional tools for professional stylists:

I have a group page for thoughts and discussions leave comments. or join follow this blog here.
Exploring techniques with a razor will open up a hole new world of creativity:
If you need would like help encouragement group or individual instruction I'm sure i could help you reach a new level of expertise.  
Mike B2MR
http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/
full contact details on my web site:





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