Stylist's Maintaining Standards=keeping clients!

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS: B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic's.

I have decided to touch on some of the issues that. Salon owners and managers encounter. Stylists need to address. Clients can often be effected by. What it it ? Quite simply a poor or bad job. Accidents can and do happen things can go wrong, But excuses are easy to fall back on.
Blaming the product. The client . Blaming the salon owner team work mates! How about taking responsibility for your self and your actions. Raising your won personal standards of skill and knowledge, taking responsibility being accountable. yes stepping up!
Some of those reading this may well be thinking. What gives me the right to raise these issues?
Sadly because it happens to often and needs to be addressed. If it's not you great  well done you but bet you know a stylist who this addresses?

So what are these poorly done services.

Lets start with what is so basic and yet can be a huge problem for some. Bad or wrong formulation. Poor application of product.

Bad formulation can be the cause of. Poor or thin deposit. Hot roots can be caused by a wrong assessment during the consultation or wrong choice of formulation. Also colour and Developer and timing.
Consultation correct assessment will improve this along with understanding of the colour wheel. maybe take the time to read the technical manual that came with your colour chart it's normally the black stuff! Assessing Grey issues. This includes the amount of N series required in formula . When the colour is thin with poor deposit then  wrong formulation is the only answer nothing else!
Either not enough N series in formulation or wrong developer  poor timing! all down to stylist technician!
Never put the shade chart on a clients lap and say what colour do you ant to day !  Good Consultation and assessment is the key.

Mudding browning out colour.
Again when this situation arises the stylist has to look in the mirror and take responsibility. This is caused by applying a formulation to the roots. Having chosen formulation developer mixed applied for either lift  or Grey issue. This formulation should not be left for 20 mins in the bowl then applied as as the refresher! this product has oxidised in the bowl. Its of no use.
The mid lengths and ends will in most cases be previously coloured so they need colour balancing. applying the root formulation will over process and will cause dull muddy or brown out your colour. Not to mention longer term issues!

Banding. Normal and Grey hair issues:
Yes maybe a repeat of topic! But banding is poor application of the product either over lapping or not enough application of product. [watch how much product on your brush and thickness of sections]
When related to Grey issues banding is normally wrong assessment of formulation in most cases when considering Grey hair coverage the normal rule is [25%  of the N series would be required in formulation if 25% Grey in any given two inch section seen during consultation assessment.]
So what ver the percentage of Grey in any area you need that amount of N series in your formulation!

Yes two things to remember you may be 70% Grey on the top section and 40% at the back different formulations required!  That being both the N series and indeed developer choice. It's not just mix and slap it on!

Hot roots.
How many times have I. Do I see this. That colour with bright roots. They can be. Red. Copper. Bright orange. This arrises with both home colour and in the salon.

Cause Wrong formulation wrong developer. build up of colour through over processing mid lengths and ends

You know the look. A fashionable Brunette. Natural deep Reds. visually the roots are bright hot more lift than colour deposit. The regrowth has not taken the colour it's just lift bright tacky looking.  [Also happens with Grey issues again N series in formulation choice of developer]
Hot roots is caused by wrong choice of colour wrong developer. amount or ratio of mixed formulation!

All this leads to stylist error ! not the product.
Colour Balancing Combing colour through.

Again Mid lengths and ends of colour need to be colour balanced a formulation to refresh Not lift and deposit .Do not apply old left over colour from root application. Mix less to start with .Think salon wastage!!
I have and do see so many stylist combing colour through sort of slapping on mid lengths and ends working in a little.
One needs to take section and apply colour evenly down the hair shaft full cover is essential.
So all of the above issues are caused by poor application and wrong assessment. No excuse it's the stylist technician who need to stand up and be counted !!

Highlights. Lowlights.
So may different forms of this technique from caps to foil to papers.most of the issues that arise stem from formulation and application.
Cap Highlights.
Biggest issues over lapping product on hair already highlighted leading to breakage. Try to use a cap on hair that is to long! use of wrong toner!

Foil and papers.
Where to start so many issues on this maybe weave and sections. Uneven weave and not thinking about placement of foils or papers. ket is to make sure that you don't create a root looking issue and your sectioning is even and clean. working to the plane or curve of the head!

Bleeding.
Again the stylist has to take responsibility for this. Caused by sloppy application. untidy work. Application of two much product. to root area. foil or paper squashed either squeezing product into roots or folding paper or foil so tightly no room for expansion of the product especially Bleach.
If adding heat the product will expand more and quicker before then drying out as the moisture evaporates. [ A thing i think not required it's formulation and timing].
Adding heat to the formulation lift process can also create beading sort leopard spots.Cause the product dries out and does not expand giving even lift.

Blobs.
Big patches of bleached hair random caused by two much product application the products spreads out drawn toward the scalp by naturally produced heat. it seeps out of paper or foil expands and creates blobs. Stylist error.
Breakage.
Caused by overlapping Bleach or product and over processing hair it will stretch and break off when being combed out. HAIR IS VERY FRAGILE WHEN WET! especially after chemical service.

Poor lift wrong Tone.
Well this goes back to grass roots formulation and timing. poor lift will with highlights normally  cause problems with to much warmth.
Possibly to Orange or yellow if this is the case an assessment to re apply more lifting formulation normally bleach decolouriser. Or toning to control pigment exposed.
To many stylist when toning reach for the ash toner! you have to assess the tone you have and work out what is needed to neutralise that unwanted tone. Ash,Violet, Beige. consult the colour wheel . it's about balance. Orange normally requires Ash toner. Yellow normally requires Violet toner.

Poor uneven lift when lightening previously coloured hair.
This topic could be classed as corrective if you don't have the skill the knowledge seek help or don't take it on. get the skills first.

In this case one would have to  colour or lift from the ends to get an even degree of lift down the full hair shaft. It takes time and patient and application of different formulations working into the roots.Remember the roots in this instance will always lift very quickly.
See previous [ Posting Colour case review on Highlighting a solid colour ]

Hair colour case review: Solid colour to High lights.

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:
Regular postings of fresh new topic's

Well this past week end was crunch time.
I have been colouring my wife's hair a solid colour for quite a while. I have played with shades and tones and formulations. As we all know a colour can and will look different just by using a different level of developer.
Well sadly the Grey is creeping in. The re growth is appearing quicker and the depth of deposit and so longevity of vibrancy was getting lost.
Time to think a little lighter. Time to think high lights and low lights a mixture of shades. being the long term goal.
As you can see below: When first done this colour looks rich warm healthy looking:

Well I knew and know from experience this is not a quick or easy task, nor can one take short cuts!  No not because it's my wife although that plays a part! But because this colour and so degree of deposit has built up over time so to get an even lift  down the full shaft of  hair i would have to start lifting from the ends in running a couple of different formulation.
I like to use papers for high lighting and find the best ones that don't slip and will stay right up to the root without bleeding are Hi Lit Wraps By W.R Rayson. They come in various sizes are waxed paper so bio degrade with time. I will post a link at the end of Article.

Although an older shot from my archive: This shot below gives a very good example of the issues being faced. Roots and faded washed out colour.

I decided on my course of action my goal was to lift to a golden blonde at this time so that in the future we can high light and low light still adding some warm shades. But for now it's breaking up a solid colour but with even lift. Fine highlights and low lights.

I would run 20 vol bleach decolouriser from end to mid lengths and 10 vol decolouriser mid lengths for now no root application for they will lift and go to light to quickly.
Once applied i left them on with visual timing as the correct shade was reached so i took them out a rinsed with water. Once this was complete and I was happy with the shade the full head was rinsed really well and then dried off.
Now a root assessment  to blend them in the lift achieved i Decided on two formulations her natural level is 7 but around 7G  so i used a 9N with 20 vol for the roots 1 part colour 1 1/2 developer  knowing the violet under tone would control anything to yellow This was applied only to the roots / regrowth.

Formulation.
I also used a Demi formulation of 9B for deposit only just to add a burnt honey tone through the newly lightened hair. so yes i put in a second set of high lights over the first but ended up with target shade and colour no banding and even lift. Taking us on the road to a lighter all over effect without it look yellow dull or drab.

The 9B has a green base at a level 9. So when applied over the existing copper it will neutralise to some degree thus creating a burnt honey tone. controlling the copper.
The process:
From now on it will be some lift with a low volume bleach decolouriser and some low lights of different shades depending on time of year . Less root issue and multi tonal shades for life and texture.

As promised here is some contact for the Hi Lite wraps.I am in the Uk and have found them very helpful with regard to service.

hi lite wraps at work right to root

This collection of shots is to show the advantages of the Hi lite wraps the model in shot was having blonde high lights this is not part of the discussed above colour process. These wraps are so easy to use very light and fold over very easily. They are easy to manage when sliding them in to the roots clean neat section's is the key working off of sections working with the shape and curve of the head and always taking into account the hair line and growth patterns.
When removing they pull out with ease with out snagging or any discomfort to the client.

many papers very neat to work with.

right to roots no bleeding




For any one interested in the Hi-Lite wraps. I have also found this company so helpful they are based in the United states who knows maybe we can get them into the UK or Global.
http://www.sparenity.com/

I supply this information because of the out standing service they have given me not because of financial gain. Mike B2MR
A special note of thanks to Lien Le and Fran Martin. 

Ultimate Salon Service:

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea's on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

What is the ultimate in Salon service:

It has to be that balance that blend of exemplary Service. Experience. knowledge that point when all that  expertise come together,

Why do clients return  to us time after time ? In some cases year after year. Why do they recommend you to family and friends? They want to share something that for them was very special. That thing you do every time your client returns to you. That interaction those personal things that define you that you unique.
The way you are with your clients when they have an appointment with you that special way you take time to listen and advise.Giving them that honest consultation. This is the time we take to.Make our client feel special, for this time, this appointment, our job, our goal is to make that client feel that they are treated and allowed to feel very special. You have an opportunity to do this to offer this unique experience to every client you have. Every day!

This can be quite demanding. Some might say draining so remember, it's not about the number of clients you do in a day . It's about the service your perform and standard of care and attentiveness. If you take care of these and you will be busy and booked every day constantly getting new recommendations.

It really is that easy concentrate on. The service. The experience recommendation return business will automatically follow. Value your time and the standard of what you do and charge accordingly value for money is a great job well done with amazing service.

This only goes wrong when we get greedy and complacent. Over book leading to keeping clients waiting, taking short cuts, not repeating the same standard of service all the time.
It may sound boring but find the routine that works for you with your client that routine that works from the moment they enter the salon until they leave having re booked that next appointment.

My experience was that I would do the same number of people a day every day i would not fit clients in ever! This was always made clear in a first consultation of course clients will try and get you to fit them in they may say "But i'm special" remind them that all clients are they are a special! and all get the same special treatment . Then you can add. So you see you cannot have some more special than others you have to all be special together.

Remember this. If you fit a favored client in, then some time in your day some one gets short changed kept waiting? I also had a 15 min rule later than that and you would have to re-book why? Well after 15 minutes the next client will be kept waiting or the standard of what is being done will be compromised Once clients know and understand this you have created a level of respect. you will never lose clients over having boundaries and maintaining service.

For the record my business was fully booked weeks in advance I never advertised it was word of mouth only. My business was technical Colour or Colour correction I only ever did three appointment's a day i only cut hair with razors so quite unique never evenings never week ends all my choice in my own effort to strike a work life balance, something important to me and quite challenging as i am by nature quite an obsessive person and can very easily forget that work life balance,

I was however also a platform artist and educator so had other commitments but always kept clients fully appraised of my away times and schedule for up come shows and training events.

Clients love like to tell friends they have a stylist who travels educates what it really shows is that you are involved in your profession.

I have been reading a book called Double you Salon success  written by "Karen Lynch". She compares the service we give. What we do with how the client might view the same experience.

After 35 years in this industry I still found it a good gentle reminder that. What we do. What we offer. How we present and perform our skills are for a client an overall package of the experience.

Interestingly this equates to 20% our skill knowledge 80% the Experience yes the service.

We are selling an experience offering the ultimate in Service part of this package is out skill and knowledge.

I would highly recommend this book if you are looking to turn a corner with your business your salon your staff would all benefit from this easy informative read.

                                                    http://www.doubleyoursalonsales.com/
Karen and David have a wealth of experience in the Hairdressing Industry and are constantly on the road doing presentations and seminar's  for more information on there philosophy and who they are take a look at their web site  maybe join in post some thoughts view's comments it's called net working.
                                                    http://thesalonsuccessclub.ning.com/

In closing remember this. There is nothing wrong with being in a service industry some may think they are above being servers that it some how degrades that it suggest menial. I say this comes from Ego.
We all like to be served having an experience. From when we go for dinner we remember that very special caring service, this is how we should be remembered this is what will keep us busy booked and clients returning over and over again.

It is also my belief that we should strive to have a balance between providing the" Ultimate Service" A pampering experience supported with skill and knowledge raising the bar on standards of training and education this can only serve to increase the whole experience. The overall standard thus improving business the work environment and most importantly the client experience

Ultimate Service: Supported with Knowledge, creativity, passion, skill

Mike B2MR

Trace elements Metallic salts in hair products

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea's on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Do we really know what we are getting

In that wonder box of home hair colour!

It is my intention to shed some light and expose some truth around some of the nasty things found in hair colour chemicals that go unmentioned causing effects that can be dangerous!
Understanding how and why certain chemical reactions take place is very important. Lack of knowledge and understanding of products is no excuse when things go wrong.
Action re action: whilst doing that consultation, look, feel, ask those leading question that help you get as much history as possible. 

Over view of products available:  

THERE are many ways to color hair and many products which are used for coloring. The most widely used products fall into two classifica tions—permanent hair colorings and temporary or demi- semi. It is essen tial that the professional colour technician understand how the products in each group work and their effects on the hair.

HAIR COLORINGS

Permanent colorings remain in the hair until they are removed by chemical means or until the hair grows out. The coloring cannot be washed out with soap and water. However, it can be changed if another shade is desired by using a colour remover or bleach and re-tinting the hair.

Permanent colorings are used to cover gray hair, to give decided changes in hair color, or to brighten or deepen an already existing shade.

There are two types of permanent hair colorings—those that penetrate in the hair shaft and the coating tints which develop on the cuticle.

The Penetrating Tints

Almost all permanent hair coloring is done with oxidation or penetrat ing tints. These tints penetrate through the cuticle layer of the hair into the cortex and are there oxidized or developed by the peroxide to in  soluble pigments deposited on the same place where the natural pigments occur. The distribution of the produced pigments inside the hair shaft in the same pattern as the natural pigment creates a natural-looking shade.

The tinting action of the permanent hair coloring stops as soon as the hair is rinsed and excess coloring is washed away so that the hair does not darken after the application.

Hair is not overly damaged if the penetrating tint is properly applied.Sometimes the penetrating tints  can even  seem to improve hair condition.

All oxidation or penetrating tints require a patch test to be given 24 hours before each application.

The coating tints develop on the outside of the shaft on the cuticle layer, obliterating light and producing unnatural colors. There are many kinds of coating tints stains, vegetable extracts and the metallic dyes.

Vegetable Extracts

In the past, many plants and plant extracts such as indigo, sage, camomile and henna were used for hair dyeing. However, today only henna finds continued use. Among its many disadvantages are the length of application time, uncertain results, and the unnatural red shades it produces. Over a period of time, henna coats the hair and suffocates the cuticle, making other chemical services inadvisable, It is impossible to remove henna from the hair.

So-called white henna is not henna at all but is magnesium carbonate application of white henna, with its  strong alkaline reaction, tends to damage the hair.

                                                                        

Metal Salt Dyes and Metal Compounds

Metal salt dyes are usually composed of a solution of metal salt with thiosulfate. The metal salt dyes are called progressive dyes or color restorers, because each subsequent application increases the coating on the hair and it becomes progressively darker. These metallic dyes have a tendency to fade into peculiar colors. Those that contain lead turn purple. The dyes containing silver turn green, and those containing copper turn red.

There are some disadvantages of metallic salt dyes. There are relatively few shades of metallic hair dyes available limited by the properties of metal salts. However, the degree of color can be regulated by the frequency of application.

The more frequent the application, correspondingly the stronger the color. These dyes tend to produce quite dark and intense colors with frequent use. Metallic salt dyes can interfere with permanent waving they can and will cause a chemical reaction this can result in a heat reaction in some cases hair can dissolve or melt, so there are restrictions on using these dyes along with other forms of hair processing.{back to the stand test not done enough in salons seldom by the home hair artists.}

The advantages of metallic salt dyes if their are any! include their ease of use at home. The gradual change in color with repeated use is subtle so friends and associates may not actually realize you have started using hair dye. These dyes are relatively safe to use. Although made from metals, the modern formulas are not absorbed through the skin. There is usually no need for a patch test as it is extremely rare to become sensitized to metallic salts.

                                                                   

THE BIG TEST:

To determine if hair has been colored by a metallic dye, mix 1 oz. of 20-volume peroxide with 20 drops of 28% ammonia. Submerge 20 strands of hair in the solution and let it sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes. If the hair lightens rapidly, the hair contains lead. If there is no reaction after 30 minutes, the hair contains silver or bismuth. If the solution starts to boil and emits a foul odor, the hair contains copper. Hair that has no metallic salts on it should lighten only very slightly.

                                 Henna Compound Dyes

The henna compound dyes are mixtures of metallic salts with organic intermediates such as pyrogallol. The colors achieved with these com pounds are more natural looking than those obtained with the metal salts alone, but no lightening of the hair is possible and they fade easily. They are discolored by cold wave permanents, and hair treated with these compounds cannot be bleached or dyed until the metallic salts have been removed. [removing metallic salts] good luck with that!

 Red Henna comes from the Dried leaves of the Privet [lawsonia alba] grown in Asia and northern Africa.

Natural henna comes from the crushed root.

Natural henna is sometimes mixed with compounds of Metallic salts to produce a range of different colours. Hair coloured with Metallic salt henna cannot and should not be coloured with any other products including Hydrogen Peroxide.

Warning :

If unsure do a strand test,[ Strong discoloration,an unpleasant smell. no colour change, uneven results down hair shaft, in some case applying permanent colour over    the top of Metallic salts can cause a high heat reaction!]

Henna can make appear shinny with more body and natural red hues depending on natural base level!

Henna Can over time build up on hair make it brittle it is not possible to chemically remove henna.

{Again before attempting any new colour strand testis essential!}

TEMPORARY HAIR COLORINGS

Temporary colorings deposit color on the outside of the hair shaft. They are generally removed by washing with soap and water, but some of the temporary types are resistant to one or two shampoos.

Temporary hair colorings are used to darken or to add highlights to normal hair, to impart color to gray hair and to eliminate yellowish shades from white and gray hair.

There are three kinds of temporary hair colorings:

Rinses

For women who want only to highlight the color of their hair or add beauty to gray hair, rinses are the most satisfactory answer. Concen trated rinses like the Clairol Come Alive series, while they wash out with soap and water, remain color true from shampoo to shampoo. The Come Alive series consists of Come Alive Gray, Come Alive Red, Come Alive Brown and Come Alive Blonde. They highlight mousy hair, and Come Alive Gray makes gray hair look more beautiful without unnatural blue and purple tones. The Come Alive rinses condition as well as color the hair. These rinses are easily and quickly applied and are valuable as an introduction to hair coloring.

 Highlighting Shampoos

Some shampoos combine the action of a rinse with that of a shampoo to give highlights and slight color tones to hair. These shampoos gen erally contain certified colors.{ some of these contain elements that build up in the hair}

Other highlighting shampoos do not contain coloring matter, but do contain a bleaching agent to achieve this effect. Their action is due to solid peroxide compounds present in a soap or detergent base.

Powders, Crayons, Mascaras, and Hair color Cremes

Powders are practically extinct today with the exception of the metallic powders which have returned to fashion for use in applying temporary hair streaks. again we are back with the metallic issues it builds up in the hair it causes chemical reactions.

Hair crayons are used to retouch newly grown gray hair in between tint treatments so that it blends with the tinted hair. The results are not  comparable to regular retouching.

Read hair color instructions carefully

when in doubt, always do a test on a small strand first. But if you've made a mistake, don't hide under a hat for months. Salons have color removers and their are some good over the counter removers B4 sold at Boots the Chemist. they will in most case take you right back to where you started, where hopefully, history won't repeat itself.

I hope that this has and is helpful good luck with your next hair adventure:            http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

The Hair salon the stylist who to trust.

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea's on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

long drab very unflattering !

In Colour we trust:  In stylist we trust! do we deserve this trust?

Quite a Topic and one that both hairdressers and clients the public we serve can think on chat about!

Shot above before make over below model after shot, Razor cut  two days later she had her baby! feeling much better about herself.She had been to three salons wanting a change but none of them wanted to risk upsetting a 9 month pregnant women ! why they did not talk the time to listen!

Razor cut no scissors used!

As a client who has decided to go into a salon for a technical colour  service your hope your thinking has brought you to this place because you have decided to pay for the service knowledge expertise of a professional hairdresser colour expert technician.

                                    

You have made this choice rather than enter into the world of home hair colour, 

Quite frankly another area that needs so much more attention spent on it, for the consumer with regard to knowledge and honesty about the products how and why they work, what they do, realistic and true expectations transparency with home hair colour. 

As a stylist working in a salon offering your skill and service just by being in the salon environment you are making the statement that you are a true professional educated and knowledgeable, or at least one would hope so.

Then my question is why do so many women turn to Home hair colour? lets be honest it's not all about saving money, and if it is about money then we as stylist have that challenge to prove that you get what you pay for to justify the salon experience.

The Experience starts with image first impressions of both the salon and the staff appearance you only ever get one chance for a first impression. secondly its the time you have for consultation your time to shine sell you self your skill knowledge, listen advise be honest ask question your in control or you should be, by being in control the client should feel comfortable she is in good hands.

Easy ha!

Then why so many disillusioned clients why do we still see over processed hair drab dull colours, why so many articles from women unhappy with their hair, why so many reviews written about a bad experience.

That's not me i hear you say, who does this guy think he is! great that's the reaction i  want,

But oh so much of the time it's seems all about the money get them in get them out, under skilled under qualified people colouring hair lacking in knowledge and skill but with a Ego the size of a salon.

Why where does it come from?

Is it something instilled at college at the academy fake it till you make it. an attitude that once you have qualified you have made it you know all their is to know. you can go into a salon or go mobile calling your self a true professional.

When we have some many young people in college doing hairdressing and 14 year old students doing basic hairdressing as part of their school lessons, who decides on standards NVQ what does that mean when so many have it and yet are un-skilled! over half the students in one college i had experience with were wasting their time and that of the tutors, of the 14 year old students it was a way of getting out of other subjects but getting a qualification or accreditation upon leaving school what does this say!

Understanding your colour line:

When it comes to professional hair colour salons and stylist it's a fact that salon change colour lines because the one they have does not work for them. it does not lift, the reds don't hold, the ash shades to green, the pigment cannot control the lift! sound familiar, then why?

Professional colour companies know that hairdressers salons change colour lines through dissatisfaction this is why they constantly bring out new repackaged lines. there are differences between in quality but with the top names they pretty much work the same way pigments vary but quality and chemistry quite standard so why change?

Here it is!  IT'S EASIER TO BLAME THE PRODUCT THAN ADMIT LACK OF KNOWLEDGE!

As a former educator for a colour company i have seen so many salon owners bow to pressure from staff to change a colour line through dissatisfaction lack of skill and knowledge.

It is so hard for a manager or owner to suggest the issues lies in the mirror! If we take the time to read the education material in a manual part of a shade chart {yes the black stuff next to the pictures}To go on the education up dates to do in salon training model fun nights to play experiment, get to understand your colour line.

Simple things: this is all true when toning at the basin on pre lightened hair that is still tad yellow using ash toner! then blaming the product because it's sludge green ha ha you laugh it happens.

 or mixing a colour up but because you have chosen possible to higher volume of peroxide to counter act this you squeeze in a little ash then oh maybe that was to much so in goes some gold! yipee green again! guys this goes on!

So for the client who has been part of one of these salon situations these case of poor quality of work how are they supposed to respond? having wanted that salon experience, having wanted to feel pampered and a million dollars..but having left feeling nothing but resentful of the whole experience!

They want to trust know they are in good hands, as stylist we have to go so much further with the service we offer, but we owe it to our selves and the client to invest in our skill get the knowledge get the education learn our trade.

become experts in every aspect of our field this does not happen over night i don't think we ever know everything thing but the goal the motivation should be to know as much as possible keep pushing your self to be better and share this this knowledge with Clients and work mates.

For the client who has had a bad experience i say do not give up on a professional service just research find the good ones do not settle for second best.

Build a relationship built on trust and understanding and honesty about goal and expectations solving problems finding solutions

At the end of the day you should be able to put more trust in the salon the experience than you can that small box on the shelf at the supermarket that covers Grey makes you look younger healthier all in 10 minutes and for under a fiver!!!!!

I have written this to push buttons ask questions get reaction!

here is my web site this also links into my blog comments can be left good or bad.

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

Mike B2MR

Highlight/ low lights with high lift hair colour:

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

regular postings of fresh new topic's

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea's on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Low Lights: The most natural from of High- Low Lights:

 Whilst in my local Starbucks yesterday i got talking to my Coffee barrister about her hair. She is of Asian decent so naturally very dark .Having said that she does lighten it but like so many has an issues with lifting beyond that orange brown hue.

The shade you get when using a light shade on dark hair you get the lift from the peroxide in the product but very little colour change and in most cases these products do not have enough pigment to control the pigment exposed leaving an unwanted tone.

When we think about low lights the idea of that natural sun kissed look comes to mind.

Those tones shades that natural lightening created from manipulating the hair's natural pigment. Enabling us to use those tones just a few shade lighter than our natural base shade that add dimension tone and shine a really natural look. 

In so many cases a client will ask for low lights that  give a few shades of lift for a natural look. However on so many occasions.They can end up with a bleach decolouriser cocktail lightening the hair to then have a stylist re add pigment or toner to control the lift. Why can this occur?  How does this happen. Poor consultation. sadly lack of creative skill and technical knowledge.

A Different approach: 

Consider this. A natural hair level 1, 2, 3,4,5 These are what would normally be considered as the darker shades. Brown through to Dark brown even black: {Asian hair} 

Lifting these shades to get a lighter streaked look can cause problems due once again to the pigment that is going to be exposed through the lifting process.

{We will be at these levels dealing with shades of red and orange!}

To create Low lights that sun kissed look we have to have a target colour in mind. We need to asses the hair so we have a clear idea of the pigment we are going to expose and how we are going to control it!

During this consultation time it should be noted that considering the hair's history.  This plays a very important role in decisions made has the hair been coloured before? If all over Colour has been applied be it professional or over the counter it will effect the the choices you make and the out come.

You cannot lift colour with colour!! So if a previous chemical history trying to create a low light using  a high lift blonde formulation will not work.

                   Remember in most cases you cannot lift colour with colour:

          { some products now days will defuse pigment and allow this but i question how good they are}

My reason for raising the above issues are because what i want to suggest is using is

                    High Lift Blonde permanent colour: to create low lights:

This method dictates  that you fully understand pigment lift deposit. That you trust and understand the pigmentation of your High lift blonde range  DOES THE PRODUCT?

Have enough pigment control to give you the desired tone shade lifting through red and orange?

Above are examples of high lift Blonde shades:

Normally the mixing ratio for these high lift shades is one part colour to two parts 40 Volume Hydrogen Peroxide development time up to 50 Mins {That being 30mins lift 20mins deposit} Heat should not be required { heat can be very bad in the colour process} It can cause bleeds due to product expansion. 

You can see the various shades Ash, Beige, Violet. Gold. 100 is a clear. With some products you can us this to get an extra bit of lift maybe a shade, but remember when adding this to a formulation you are diluting down the pigment available in the formulation so if using the clear as a booster no more than 20%  should be used in any formulation.

The 100 series on it's own will give a nice low light but will not control any pigment exposed it is just lift pigment free. So any lift will  create a low light exposed from the natural hair pigment.    

Given that most manufactures claim 4 levels of lift from

High lift blonde what can we expect?

Well given a natural level 4 we should be able to get a low light around level 7.

As we know that a natural level 7 has an orange under tone using a formulation with ash should give a nice sandy controlled honey low light .

The 40 volume Hydrogen giving you the four levels of lift the Ash pigment controlling the pigment exposed!

The shades shown are realistic tones that can be reaches with this method. Although using a higher volume of peroxide i think it still better than using a bleach to lift and then re pigment or tone the hair.

Multi shades very natural looking:

Low lights Done with this method have less tendency to fade due to the fact you have worked with the hairs natural pigment base.

Do give it a try although the time for development is longer like most services in a salon time management is key to being a success.

You don't need to rush or force colour development you just need to manage your time effectively forcing hair colour development with a plastic cap and heat will not improve your colour.

Hair colouring is an equation of formulation lift deposit and timing!

Think of  of it as. Formulation, Mix, Timing!   Just like baking a cake recipe ingredients over temp Timing. perfect cake perfect colour!

have fun let me know how you get on!

Mike B2MR