Health or Wealth: In the hair salon

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

Health or wealth: 


As mentioned we are living through some very challenging economic times. Business models that work no longer seem to.There are no guarantee's when it comes to customer loyalty. With this comes worries about revenue daily and weekly takings.
Products and techniques come and go Perming, Henna, Highlights, Lowlights,Ombre. All have taken there place in the salon hall of fame for both looks and indeed for profitability. 

Now we have a new challenge facing us! The chemistry of our products is changing at a rapid pace some of the manufacture are less than transparent about how these products work and any possible side effects.frankly this is worrying and we as professional have to ask more question and be either less trusting  or hold the manufacture to account.
The chemistry in many cases of our hair colour has changed Ammonia got gets a bad warp it seems an Alkaline derived from grain has a more natural quality to it so it must be safer and healthier! You decided MEA come from the ethanol family.

Back to the profit the revenue the services that are great money makers. The safety of the chemicals in the Keratin products [relaxers] and our ability to trust the manufacturers of these products. Follow the money...so many stylists see only the quick return and fast cash made on this service, and  ignore the cancer, COPD and asthma dangers to ourselves and our clients. In some cases if not the product it self then the reaction caused when high heat is applied and fumes are given off.  Formaldehyde and it's different-name-same-chemical Aldehyde produce toxic fumes in our salon workspace. We see now and will be seeing in larger, bigger amounts serious breathing issues and potentially even worse health developments.
What is it going to take for salon owners and stylist to sit up do some home work ask some key questions about these products.

Greed is winning out over the safety and health issue! What will happen to our industry when the inevitable legal actions start by anyone who has side effects contracted from being around these fumes?
We need to wake ourselves and each other up to the very real dangers of these product do your own research read some of the true facts. Don't trust me i'm just a messenger but wealth is no replacement for health! The manufactures need to be more honest and we stylist have to demand more of them. Ignorance is not an excuse when it comes to health and safety.
Here are some links below and some food for thought.  But hey please do your own home work!

Lets take a look at some of the NEW Exciting Keratin hair products: They are designed  to control and smooth out hair get rid of the frizzies make it more manageable :

Well it's seems like the market in the Keratin based hair products is growing in leaps and bounds it also seems that in an effort to gain market attention the chemistry of these products is in state of constant change  each company claiming more natural less harmful formulations. Some of the reviews I have read are far from favorable as to results attained, having said this to be fair i have had some very positive and open feed back the people at Nano Keratin very open about the product and how and why it works explanation of the process.

Warning flags:

After the initial interest in the Brazilian blow dry then came the first warning about formaldehyde and the fumes given off with the use of high heat flat irons. The main problem seems to be that having replaced the stabiliser formerly Formaldehyde the search was on for new ingredients that did not produce toxic fumes but also allowed for the cuticle to be opened and softened prior to the application of the Keratin. How do these products work quite simply you are opening the cuticle slightly introducing a conditioning product applying a layer a veneer of keratin and then ironing it flat with a hot iron that a simple explanation.

The much bigger explanation is that the products are all slightly different the source of keratin the products used to stabalise and change or manipulate the ph prior to the Keratin application. I read many reviews on the social sights and blog postings as people report their experience some good some bad some just not really that impressed.

This is the topic that started me asking questions: 

http://www.short-hair-style.com/formaldehydefree-keratin-products-are-carcinogens.html

It not all doom and gloom and on a positive note i wrote an article on the Nano Keratin Technology  a very interesting keratin product that can be read at.

http://mikeb2mr.wordpress.com/2010/08/24/nano-keratin-a-hair-break-through/

Another product was highlighted this week in the HJ  Brocoto they market their product as being a Curl interrupted smoothing system. How does this product work this product does not contain formaldehyde. The main point of difference they claim are as follows System does not contain any formaldehyde or give off any type of gas it is very gentle for hair and health. or so it's claimed .just yesterday i was sent copy of lab report showing high levels of formaldehyde present in products claiming to be safe. The very high het required plays a key roll in the production of the harmful fumes.

They have a two step system, the first phase is a gel which softens the bonds in the hair,the ph of the smoothing gel is 6.85 ,( key ingredient ammonium bisulphite ) with the cuticle now relaxed and slightly open this is when any colour would be added prior to the Keratin application Then the keratin product is added when the bonds are pliable and elongated therefore easily absorbed with gentle heat.the keratin spray is 4.5 to 5.5. This product cannot be over used as the keratin is buffered with other natural ingredients such as acai oil, macadamia seed oil etc. This does not effect other chemical processes The colour does last longer when sealed after ironing with keratin spray. The colour we recommend to use at the same time as the service is an ammonia free demi colour , which does not affect the Ph, my question is demi colour does have an alkaline driver so we are opening an already open cuticle? The keratin is manufactured.  

Relaxers,Straitners, Keratin, Blow out: Sharing a health warning

Over the past week I have written reviews and posted information on the new Keratin hair products designed to relax De frizz promote a healthy look promoted as a system that last up to three months without any damage and side effects.

Much of what i read and re-searched was very exciting but as with all products and claims of the new wonder product did it have side effects. The one thing that did keep coming up as a warning light was initially with the Brazilian Blow out and Formaldehyde the problem being as the heat with the hot iron is applied the fumes can be dangerous. Question raised have and were met with denial in many quarters sadly fears have come to be true as yet only in Canada but a red light is a red light. Please if using these products take care follow all direction protect your self and your client.

Warning Oct. 7, 2010

Brazilian Blowout Solution Contains Formaldehyde

The Issue:

Health Canada is warning Canadians that Brazilian Blowout Solution manufactured by Brazilian Blowout of California has been found to contain unacceptable levels of formaldehyde. The Brazilian Blowout hair smoothing treatment is known to be available at salons across Canada.

Health Canada has received complaints of burning eyes, nose, and throat, breathing difficulties, and one report of hair loss associated with use of the product.

Testing conducted by Health Canada found that the Brazilian Blowout Solution contains 12% formaldehyde. Formaldehyde is permitted in cosmetics at less than 0.2% when used as a preservative. Formaldehyde is a known irritant, sensitizer, and is linked to cancer in humans when inhaled chronically over a long period of time. Health Canada believes that the reactions are being caused by formaldehyde becoming aerosolized during the blow drying and flat ironing stages of the treatment. Any procedure containing formaldehyde above the allowable limits places clients and stylists at increased risk.

Who is Affected:

Consumers receiving hair smoothing treatments using Brazilian Blowout, and stylists performing the treatment may experience reactions of burning eyes, nose, throat, and breathing troubles.

What Consumers Should Do:

Consumers who have had adverse reactions to Brazilian Blowout treatments are advised to seek medical attention. There is no cause for concern for consumers who have used this product and not experienced any reactions.

Stylists who use Brazilian Blowout treatments should immediately stop using the affected product.

Adverse reactions to cosmetics can be reported to Health Canada using a form available on Health Canada’s website.

Consumers and health professionals can contact Consumer Product Safety toll free at 1-866-662-0666.

Source:

* Health Canada, Oct. 7, 2010. is the look worth the risk?

Moving on we now have companies rebranding and so re packaging with new formulation claims ALDEHYDES are the term used. are they safe ? what happens when exposed to high heat? In the end you the stylist have to decide is it worth risking?

What is an Aldehyde? It's the new kid on the block in keratin relaxers. Formaldehyde without the form!!!!!
Aldehyde is now found in many products ingredient listings instead of formaldehyde. Could it be it is derived from a natural source? maybe in the same way as we take Ammonia free as being better because MEA is derived from a natural source. It's classed as natural herbal organic and so we are lead to believe safer and so Ok! when the fermentation takes place it makes ethanol. A grain Alcohol derivative the alkaline required for the process.
Aldehydes when heated with a flat iron to a heat of 450 degrees in the keratin process produce a gas guess what it's called? No prizes folks but it's bad stuff and can be carcinogen!
all good stuff i think worth knowing. I write so much on the topic of questioning product and the difference between what we are told an what is withheld. we have to stay current on all these products as they change and become re invented. . Mike very useful link
http://www.ewg.org/hair-straighteners/our-report/hair-straighteners-that-hide-formaldehyde/

As always i hope this has been informative it is a re visit to the topic for me as more information has come to light. Mike B2MR.
Special thanks for input and sharing to Pamela Decharo:

   

The reception/First impression

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

The Reception area. The hub of the salon. The retail centre:
We only get one chance to make a first impression both as stylists but before that can interaction takes place the very first area that sets the scene is the reception.
The very first person who makes an impression is the receptionist. How much importance to you put on the key position. A position that takes so much skill to juggle. To organise. To solve problems. To be caring yet efficient.

They have to have a good phone manner. Amazing people skills patients. Good at selling with product knowledge. know how to mange an appointment book. Deal with the issues stylist have over booking keep good records balances the books. Deal with sales people. What is this worth to you? To your business ?

The Image of the the salon, decor, cleanliness appeal. Just as important the appearance and the attitude of the receptionist.Their communication skills the service they offer all so very important for both salon success and client retention.They are the first and indeed last person a client has any interaction with in the salon. They have to make that experience that memory count. Make that client feel wanted and important using their skills to have the client re book that next appointment. Help them with and recommend retail products.

Does all of this happen in your salon? Do you listen to the receptionist about client and indeed staff issues?
The receptionist has a unique position in the salon she or he holds and controls power! Power of the booking they can make or break a stylist if they so chose. My advise to a stylist never upset your receptionist. Always accommodate them if there is an appointment issue or a late comer who needs help it will stand you in very good stead in the long run. They have to be committed and very trust worthy often the last to leave and in many cases open up.

They must be a team player and leader and have a great understanding of the dynamics that is the salon from working with a manger and or owner to communicating with clients and staff and innovator and collaborator. The one who keeps the machine that is the salon running smoothly. Does your receptionist have all these skills? How often do you think about the role they play? Are they well enough rewarded?
Service goes beyond just what we the stylists do offer and create. Service is what the whole salon offers from the moment a client becomes part of the salon. It does not stop after the service has been preformed it only stops when a client leaves never to return!!!

 

Listen to your receptionist when it comes to retail purchases. The amount of stock to carry, what product lines are selling well.What are clients asking for?  What clients might be saying about products or pricing.

All key information. Maybe even concerns that are being raised about staff members. Service ability. Those getting requested, those maybe being avoided. All need to know information.



                    Mike B2MR:
To the right the chaos a receptionist over see's!!

                                           

what is. The right choice of colour line for your salon?

Back2myroots: A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

Choosing: The right colour line for your Salon: How  would you go about it?

What is the right product for you? How do you get all the answer to make an informed choice or decision! With so many products on the market so many manufacturers how on earth do you decide what company what product to chose? This is a big decision and a huge out lay for any salon so you have to get it right.

Do you make a list? If so where do you start?

* Cost.

*Quality.

*Education support and training.

*Ammonia free.

*Herbal or organic.

*Reputation.

*Staff interest or approval.

*best deal at the time.

All quite valid points and all have merit to some degree. With so many manufactures all trying for the same market as wholesale or as distributor the profit and returns are very good. The goal of any distributor is to get the colour line they represent in to your salon. Most distributors will carry more than one colour line. They work every closely with the manufactures that they represent. Many work on the premiss that if they can get their colour line into your salon then the wet line and retail sales should follow. Incentives are offered such as free or reduced price back bar or display stands.maybe even some stylist products. all sounds really good. If you have never negotiated these point now you can!

Back to the question: How do you chose?

The above list may help make your own. I do think that the staff have to be onboard with this and commit to any truing that may be required. Do not go for a new colour line without any training. Poor results will follow. Collaboration between management and staff is essential.

I would suggest have a few companies put on demonstration nights to test the product and ask any valid question.Do distributors and manufactures do this yes they do they have trained educators to do this and work with the distributor. If they don't then they are not worth bothering with! If you already use a colour line but are looking to change this is usually because the staff are having issues with the product. Or a brand new product has come onto the market and it's the next got to have thing! New is good but sometimes new comes with teething issues so sit back and wait awhile!

Fact: When staff want change due to product issues 9 times out of 10 it's not the product! True it's so easy to blame a tube of colour when things go wrong normally one of the following.

* Poor deposit.

* Fading.

* Reds that don't hold.

*N series that cannot control warmth.

* Lack of general warmth control.

*Poor quality high lift shades. [normally relating when trying to go from level 6 to 10!] Da!!!  not possible asking to lift to many levels not enough pigment control!

* Not enough choice of shades.

* Want Ammonia free.

Most sales rep's are trained to ask questions prior to starting to sell you a new colour line. They know how to draw the weaknesses of the colour line you use out. All colour line shave their strengths and their weaknesses. But if you and your staff are educated properly and use the  product correctly these issues can be dealt with. All of the list above have nothing to do with the product! Do you know what it's to do with? Poor consultation.Poor assessment. Bad formulation. In other word the stylist or technician. Laziness. Poor training. or just good old not caring.

Dose quality play a part? Yes supported  by re search and investment.

Of course it does. Do you get what you pay for! for the most part yes. Do they differ that much. Yes they do. Another list!

*Cream colour or oil based.

* Direct dye or none direct. partially or fully developed colour molecules.

* Organic or herbal. or other. Big issue this come shown to some technical understanding on chemistry.

*Ammonia Free. If yes then what drives the colour?  need to know.

* Full range Permanent semi demi.options to colour balance.

* Is the N series calibrated to deal with warmth exposed at any given level?

Once you have researched and got your list of questions together now you can invite the different company representatives  to come in do a demonstration and answer your questions. I do not promote individual colour lines or products If someone were to offer me a job as an educator then i might. Do i have favourites yes1 Would I share this with you if asked Yes! But only in one on one e-mail as response to a question.

The quality of products changes constantly new ones come and go. A few of the manufactures are committed to our industry and to supporting stylist and education for some it's just business in the salon or over the counter. My advise would be research look for the ones offering the best support education and training. If you do this you don;t have to change colour lines for any of the reason's above.Why because your using the best an dour staff have the very best training and support.

One last thing: 

Some colour lines may seem cheap larger tubes mixing ratios are very important is it mix 1 part colour to 1 1/2 developer or 2 parts colour 1 part developer  and the more pigment needed for a formulation normally indicates poorer quality of pigment in the tube. Salon waste is also very expensive measure colour weigh it keep good records eye balling it is wasteful and un professional.

Mike B2MR

The Hair salon the experience Business:

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

What is the hair salon or Spa? What business are we in? What is it we are selling or producing? Yes it's. Hair cutting or colouring or a variety of the many services we offer as a salon or spa. Consider this we are really selling or providing an experience.Oh and we are the product that makes this happen.

Lets take a look at this together:

We are in the business of pampering. Do you think your client comes to you wanting expecting the same as last time! NO! They trust you. They come to you because they like you. How easy it is to forget that we have the power the skill the knowledge to make them feel special look great.it's so easy to get complacent.

Where does this all stem from the Consultation. Our time to review past styles and looks and suggest the new! The upgrade! That shared suggestion of a new colour a new look. It shows you care ! It's not selling. It advising it's what you me we are paid for 'expertise'.

This process of taking the time to talk and assess with your client should happen every time they come for an appointment. Not only with new clients and then on odd times there after. We are constantly looking for and indeed advertise for new clients: Did you know that on average over 50% of new clients to a salon never return for a second visit! Maybe just maybe we need to look at this! Maybe we need to do something differently or make some changes.

For change to happen:

How do we make change happen, what do we need? Firstly we need to know that if nothing changes if we keep doing the same old thing we get the same old results! Change is scary change is challenging! How about change is exciting. No one likes change it takes us out side our comfort zone. However scary it is such a positive move to make to reassess goals and vision to take control. To honestly look at what you can do differently where those weaknesses might be.

Have a goal as a salon to keep as many new clients as possible  look at what you do what you offer and how you perform. The service.That consultation. The salon and indeed staff image the atmosphere. The right team with the same vision on the right tracks!

An example of change.

Last week i gave my wife a new cut and colour. I gave her a lesson in styling the new look. I gave her  a brush. Today she was doing her hair ad i suggested that for the new look to work she had to make  a change! If she intended on styling her hair the way it was before then it would not look any different. For change to happen she had to change the way she was styling her hair! She laughed and agreed but it's not easy she said! True but nothing is unless you practice you get out what you put in! I re did her hair for her and suggested she practice doing things differently! Thus making change happen. Lesson change is not easy!

Asking for help. Doing research.

It takes a bigger person to ask for help than to just muddle along. Expecting different results without making any change. Admitting to ones self that change is needed and that it might well take some time commitment and work. But know this every thing is possible. With time patients and willingness for change to happen.

The key's:

Creative thinking:

Innovative thinking:

Collaboration with staff and or team mates:

Communication:

Commitment to the process:

Some useful tools and assistance links:

The First Piece of the Jigsaw eBook

Get Off the Sales Roller-coaster eBook

Below a great read to get you and your team ting about your salon vision and goals!

Double Your Salon Sales - or else

For support mentoring a challenge to you and your business Away forward check out all the online group resourses this great program has to offer.

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Thoughts on haircutting the process

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic's

Following in the steps of our make over article some food for thought

A place to share thoughts: review hair colour, products and techniques.

I'm often asked how many different hair cuts are there ? My first thought was thousands but then if one really thinks about it well it's quite an interesting thought process.

We need to think this through a little!

Long.             Anything past shoulder blades

Medium.        Shoulder blades up to nape or chin length

Short.            Anything above this.

Remember this is my thought process into the question asked not a definitive way of assessing or going about cutting or assessment of length or look, just sharing thoughts views on the process! My thought went to layers why layers. well at the end of the day if not all one length then layers to some degree or another make form the shape. It could be argued that layers are required for a perfect on length look for that wonderful swing and movement!

We must not forget techniques, slide cutting, castle thinning shear, razor Cutting, and the many other tools we have at out disposal but these are techniques if you like artistic license, freestyle cutting.The basic's don't change the length and degree of layering.Shape form, weight distribution. This sounds to simplistic all hair cuts are length and shape created by degree's of layering. Simple it's not because with this description we have to consider the real part creative talent, skill training. Any hair cut however basic or however complicated is a mixture and blend of above techniques.

What is a hair cut:

A hair cut is weight distribution it is having understanding of when cutting hair off where it will fall and lie how it will contribute to the final shape. It is being able to see and imagine shape. Someone once said a great hairdresser should see a shape in 3D know how it will look, I think this a perfect analogy.

A great hair cut is a blend of the degree of laying but having a full understanding of weight distribution and a vision to see shape.

The key is that consultation. On length and shape but also first and foremost to understand that if you put a weight line in with your fist cut it will dictate the whole cut it can make the difference between good bad average or just not good.

What ever we are doing creating has to start with a foundation. If you do this a weight line can be moved as a shape forms if you commit to it off the bat by dictating from the crown you have know room for change maybe that odd growth pattern double crown all things that can cause issue!

It can also be said that one length really is only when cut to 1/8th of an inch all over and left to grow but this would only be true as it grows out if you turned the person up side down. but then we are back into weight distribution why because you cannot cut a straight line on a curved surface and given the shape of the head we have thousands of curves and angles to play with hence understanding weight distribution.

I think that angles on the head could be by think about a fan placing on the crown open it up  many angles now place on crown different direction again many angles how to they the work together? These two shots above and below highlight perfectly bad hair i really don't know whats worse 1/ That maybe the lady likes this look? Or 2/ slightly worse that she paid for it and a professional thought this acceptable. It's really bad

As an exercise try this:

Stand behind your client take a section across the crown about 3inches wide comb it straight up now look below your fingers at the section the distance from the crown to your fingers is less in the middle than the distance on the out side of section, why because of the curve of the scalp so it follows that it will be be straight when it falls. Now take that same section and lean it to the left as you do this the hair from the right and into  middle of the section will fall away carry on with the hair traveling to the left of the section the further you go the more will fall away. This is weight distribution!

The hair cut is a hair creation. A style. A look. A fashion setting trend. A statement of individuality. If all of these are the case. Why as stylist do we in so many cases stick in so many cases to cutting the same look on everyone? Without any thought to some very basic points or stick to the safe options on the styles we can create. Will is suite this Client? Do they have the right hair type and features? Can they carry it off?

An example of a make over: Razor cut:

As stylists we owe it to both ourselves and our customers Clients to advise in an honest way on what might work be suitable look good, If we don't do this are we really doing our job to it's fullest are we being real professional are we being honest?

ready for a make over the next day she gave birth!

I ask these questions of my self constantly do you? We live in a society that for the most part is very accepting and tolerant of most things, People come in all shapes sizes have different needs desires aspirations all good but we as hair stylist have to take a lead and advise honestly what looks good what will not work.

When thinking about shape texture a look should we not consider the type of hair fine, thick, curly, growth patters at the nape of the neck to the hair line will that fringe {Bang }work for this client and her life style? If i cut this harsh blunt line at the nape will the hair lie the way i want it to? or will it always look lop sided? will that fringe work can i over layer ? yes you can should i add texture? questions to ask your self!

Should i cut a harsh line maybe it should be softer! Why do you see so many men with lop sided cuts? Answer no account was taken for the way the hair grows! just because you combed it flat against his neck cut a perfect strait line does not mean it will lie this way!

At this juncture you may be laughing or thinking this is not me maybe not if so great you are one of the few. I think the fault with these issues lies in training or lack their of! to little time spent on the basic points key to understanding how to build and create a great cut!

well quite the change

Shape  for Example:

when will we stop re vamping the Bob with the chewed up wings the spaniel look! every look has it day but this one is done and oh so dusted, half the women wearing it should not be! In some cases the lines created are just wrong a heavy women with a thick set does not need a strong blunt line emphasising no neck round shoulders. Think about this really fine hair textured within an inch of its life for that shattered edgy look around the chin will it does it work?

The same can be said for cutting this shape into wavy curly hair the line will not hold in the nape area and the length left again around the chin line will curl up looking like to Brillo pads, yes it looks great when she leaves the salon you have hot ironed it with an inch of it's life, guess what it's raining it's Grey it's damp what it's going to look like?

We need to consider these things as professional is a bad look a good representation of out skill and ability will it get us recommendation will it get us client retention? It's all about honest it's all about that consultation it's all about your standard your skill your passion your ability.

Razor cut side view lots of movement and texture

My question is. Can you be honest does any of this apply to you? We are none of us perfect but we have to question our choices. We have to raise the bar we have to have skill, passion and a real desire to make a difference! DO YOU!

These shots are of a young mum to be. She was heavily pregnant hated how she looked and felt. She came into the salon I was working at her words were. I have been to three salons today I want all my hair off  a total change. No one will do it they look at me like a crazy pregnant women.  I smiled said i will. she said really. As you can see the rest is history! next day she gave birth . She called me three days later to thank me.

To share, to seek new knowledge, skills and techniques to share experience is to grow!

Mike B2MR

I would love feed back on this through this blog article or my web site:

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

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