Hair colour Herbal Natural organic or...

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Looking At Hair colour products!

I do not claim to know or have knowledge about. All there is to know about all the different hair colours on the market.
I do try and keep up to date I do try and get information on all products i come across.
I tried to find out about INOA when it came out, I contacted L'oreal  they did not get back to me I asked them to explain why MEA is so new and exciting: no reply!
See past Blog for information on MEA

I was approached to write a review on my Blog on the re launch of Wella Blondor and Koleston Colour high lift Blonde:
They even offered to provided a press release. Nice but that is telling me what to say. I asked for some more information i sent a list of questions: no reply!
I have to think it's new packaging maybe new formulation but maybe not that innovative?

Most recently i have been contacted by a an Organic hair colour company.
quote:

Mike,
I found a comment you wrote on Organic Color Systems web site.  Our company Saphir Hair Care have developed an Ammonia-Free color line that I would love to get your feedback on.  I would love to send you some samples in hope that you would give us honest feedback on our product.  Thank you for your time.
Nico Tricoci
Saphir USA
I have replied so hope that i hear back from them ,so i can share a review with you all

To be fair  I have been to the the Organic hair colour company web site they do have a very informative web site but it still raised questions, questions that need answering. although i tried to talk with some one  the person was always to busy
Questions
Why denatured grain alcohol? formulation for Grey coverage? why no colour balancing?
One of my big concerns with Grey formulations is that they are formatted to address the Grey Issues great for the roots, but why run that same formula through the rest of the hair. you cannot have generic formulation for Grey hair ie 50% what ever the amount of Grey!

At issues is the fact that the formula is for Grey hair and mix of natural and target colour also level of peroxide so in running this into the mid lengths and ends two things happen.
One still running peroxide through hair that has already been coloured this promotes over processing and drab colour.
Also when hair has been previously coloured it does not need a formulation with peroxide colour balance would be Demi formulation also no need for Natural series in the formulation.
So an example of this might be 50%5N[natural] 50%5BR [Beige Red] putting this formulation on the roots of someone with 50% Grey would be fine for a roots application, but not to leave the said formula in a bowl and then running it through the mid lengths and ends!
The ends only need the 5BR formula and don't need the now slightly gone off peroxide in said formula,
As a rule of thumb for Grey issues what ever the % of Grey is the amount of Natural series required in a formula, having said this when doing colour it is always advisable to know the base formulation of any Natural series with relation to warmth control. Grey hair still has Pigment so the stronger the peroxide the more warmth you will expose. I would suggest doing a pre fill and using as lower volume of peroxide as possible start with 10vol 3%.

 So although trying it still misleading to call it all natural and certainly call the formulation education material up to date!

So in preaching health and condition they need to look at what they preach and teach we as stylist need to keep asking these questions!

If we don't have the knowledge if we don't ask the question nothing ever changes we get what we are allow our selves to be sold and taken in by.

So as quick review our options are.

MEA Monoethanolamine:
Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethylene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? would you think that good for hair?
Definition:
Alcohol denatured:
A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
Sounds good too!
Definition:
Ammonia:
An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3,  first step in the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material. It is perhaps the deadliest agent to tropical fish. Care must be made to ensure that the ammonia levels stay at zero. Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia and some companies have levels way above this the higher the level the more damage can be caused!

So the choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.
 
Professional Hair Colour Companies have to be help accountable to inform and be transparent about the formulation of there products and the education material should be informative and up to date.

                                              http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

To follow up on information on hair colour reviews techniques go to my web site click on Blog!
 As always thanks for reading.  MikeB2MR

Hairdressing the stylists and social net work sites

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It is my goal to create a platform that over time will become a place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

 SOCIAL NET WORKING and MEDIA SITES they are here to stay:

What role do Social net working sites play in our lives? How do they effect the sharing of? knowledge and information. How can it help promote our salon and  let us stay connected with our clients?
Firstly I think any one in their mid fifties and over have had a huge learning curve to contend with all the constant changes in technology.
Although we have grown up with this technology as it has developed and grown. The younger generation have grown up knowing nothing other than, a mobile phone a computer and the world wide web,
With the onset of computer technology, mobile phones, the internet and the way we share and research information. Our lives have been changed forever. The way we do business, communicate, research information, changed forever.
The fact that we can  promote our business with a web site designed to promote the image we want to project, link our blogs to Twitter or create a specific group page on face book.We have the ability to post comments join in this is all so instant and positive and a great way to connect and review comments and thoughts, share information

I write on this topic because of comment made on my blog. It has been suggested that certain topic's that I write and post, should not be linked and posted on some of the sights and various media applications available to us. Those being. Face book,Twitter, and other groups and sites. Some general sites, some of the sights posted by companies for sharing.
I work very hard to net work and share information. I read material posted by others. I leave comments some times good, some times not so good, but always honest and thoughtful. I actively invite communication the sharing of views and thoughts.

Just because a topic is posted it does not mean it has to be read. More and more businesses and individuals post blogs and have a social net page. From the Salon owner, to distributors, to stylists. From Tweeting to sending texts,we stay informed current connected. Now days having a social page and by sharing information and allowing posting of relevant information. We connect, we net work.
This gives us huge exposure but also means we have to be on top of our game. As a medium it so easy to get your word out share thoughts knowledge education.

From a business point of view just being able to net work with other like minded individuals has to be good to long term exposure for your business, the ability to net work and share.
To suggest that net works and specific group are only formed to improve business based on making money is very narrow minded. I think that sharing connecting moving forward is far more key to success than just worrying about the money making aspect of any group?
                                'That' 'whats in it for me train of thought' 
Today in the Hairdressing profession the ability to share knowledge, business idea's, style, education,
for stylists, mangers, owners alike to meet net work and share views thoughts concerns,to be honest and transparent.
For clients to research products and looks share experience read reviews.

My experience of using the web has connected me with some wonderful passionate professional driven and motivated. It has allowed for sharing of views thoughts and cross promotion of material. The link below is a classic example of net working getting connected ,just need to be honest and have an open mind.

This for me is all the reason why i write my hair dressing blogs net work and post views and reviews.
Thanks Mike B2MR.
My web page is linked to other groups and my blog at: 
http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

The Art of the up /do continued

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When I first started in the hair industry the thought of putting hair up. Being asked to do some hair for a graduation or wedding totally freaked me out.
The reason for this was fear! fear of screwing up fear of not knowing what i was doing fear of looking an idiot.
I muddled my way through doing wedding hair but never feeling very confident it was not fun!


That was the way until I met and worked with a wonderful man and now dear friend.
Mr Jon Paul Holt owner of Avant-Garde artistic Studio Vancouver Canada winner of so many awards and accolades. I was fortunate enough to be a member of his Artistic team and learned so much from him. As he challenged me to work with him on photo shoots and stage shows.

http://www.avantgardehair.com/

 Jon paul taught me to enjoy playing with hair learn from handling it trying to create a look.
As a medium you can create so many styles and shapes.

My dear friends from Vancouver  fab hair stylists Jon paul Holt,
Ted Mc Kinnon outside Avant-garde Yale town Vancouver Canada.
Ted a master of the up/do and wedding hair.

Consultation with a client to establish the look, does it need to be a conventional look for a wedding or graduation. One must have a clear idea of what the client wants, but it's also so important to have a vision in your mind practice is key.

This series to the left and right were for a graduation a classic look pre coloured low lighted hair using a high lift Blonde on a natural level 4 base.
The low lights compliment the look by giving it texture and showing off the shape.
Building a shape likes this takes a little practice and patients but it's well worth it.

note: Using a high lift Blonde on dark hair will always give a very natural low light as it will only lift max of 4 levels depending on developer used. One should consider the pigment base of the Highlift shade ie ash beige violet ect!

A Slightly more Avantgarde look using
a few coloured hair  pieces.
Also using a medium to Sculpture a look to Create a hat look.
Slightly edgy but would work well for wedding or Graduation on some one with the confidence to carry it off.
Never force someone to wear a look that they are not comfortable with!

 The key is practice and communication knowing that one has to play and get a feel for the hair the way it moves the shapes it wants to form . Always consider the clients needs and expectations if it's for a wedding or social event in-fact anything you are being paid for.  If it's a model for your own design collect, be it. A shoot. A show or competition then, they should be made fully aware of what they are getting into what is expected from them. some times a model waiver is a good idea.
When playing their is no such thing as failure it's more a case of taking a journey of discovery a firm foundation to build from.
As stated hair colour can also play a key roll to show off a look give it texture and dimension.

By playing and practice you can find the look that works with the hair and suites your client soft and low high with softness so much choice.
Have the confidence to step out side your comfort zone but don't be made to feel uncomfortable when working with a client for a big event or occasion if their is a difference of opinion of a personality clash my advise would be suggest that you part agreeing to differ if is to short and weddings and big formal events expectation run high who needs that stress!

classic elegance

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

natural and loose

Unless they are modeling for you for a show or photo Shoot then well it's your call. enjoy have fun challenge your self.

formal wedding

Hair salon Question thoughts and answer

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic's  http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

Question raised thoughts shared

All right, so here's a question-what kinds of things would you do to motivate stylists to market their art and services so that they make enough money to feel secure...I'm especially seeking ideas on how any of you would get the "motor" started on the long time stylists who are complacent and just do their regular clients (bread and butter) and don't do anything to expand their business. Ideas? 

Hi at last worthy topic. No advert no promotion!
Your question is one that comes up so often. This may sound harsh but your stylist have it in their hands to do what you ask. By being creative offering the highest standards of service the money the success will follow.Complacent stylist are driven by ego this normally is covering fear. Lack of ski, knowledge. Client retention is the key to success and building business, In so many cases salon's & through stylist seek out new business through advertising and promotion.it is a known fact that 50% of new clients to a salon never return !! why is this?
Service, skills ,consultation skills, creativity. Make the slackers more accountable for their pay packets. Make them more accountable for them selves. switch from employment to chair rental that sorts out the men from the boys!!,some will fall to the side move on but in the end you have a more motivated driven team.
Encourage training events ,competition work both in the salon and out side, in house training,
In house awards or most improved new client recommendation& retention,create healthy competition, Complacent stylist get lazy clients see this and will move on, taking friends with them. A happy client will recommend five friends they in turn have five friends yes it's that easy, all we have to do as stylist's is be attentive to our clients. Sadly lacking
 get your clients involved. Questionnaire on service .We professionals provide a place for stylist to work, after a certain point they have to be accountable for themselves we all do. make a decision live with the consequences. thanks  , MikeB2MR  

For the stylist reading this exchange. Maybe take the time to digest this.
The things we do define us. It's these things that motivate, and inspire us. Question who you are, what you do, what really empowers you. The challenge is to ensure you have the right knowledge and tools to feel empowered. That feeling of positive affirmation will help you take charge and live your dream.

Courses, be they technical, hands on, shows, or demonstrations, are all very worth while.
However the real motivator is being creatively challenged, getting excited, having fun at work and in your life.

Over the past months my personal mission has been to build an internet presence: networking, learning to write a blog, creating a professional hairdressing group. Although at times frustrating and very challenging, it has forced me outside of my comfort zone, a place none of us like to be. Over this period I have had the great fortune to meet, share thoughts and ideas,with some really positive like minded people. These are inspirational, passionate, industry professionals.They have a vision. These are the people I want on my bus to learn from, share with, take a journey with.
Get inspired. Connect with driven motivated industry professional. challenge your self. 
If you want new motivation take the challenge in this little read.
                                    http://www.doubleyoursalonsales.com/

Hair colour and Alkalinity Ph

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When it comes to understanding the chemistry of hair colouring. Get educated not mislead!                         


As Hairdressers  when considering doing  hair colour . We owe it to our selves and indeed the client to do the best job possible, but more than that give the best service and advise possible, suggesting colour that works with skin tone and eye colour. Work with the best products available, understand the chemistry of the product how it works reacts with hair, what condition with it leave the hair in.

Many hair colours today claim great condition no Ammonia. However claims of no Ammonia does not always mean great condition, some times we sacrifice one evil for another. When no Ammonia is present in permanent colour another alkaline is introduced as a replacement or substitute.There has to be a presence of an alkaline for the colouring process to work
We are talking permanent colour.  The process is not the Semi Demi but they to can be misleading in their chemical makeup! So always get informed read the black stuff ask questions.

It's all so complicated. Education, technical knowledge, a greater understanding of the products that you are using is essential. Understand what MEA is another favorite derived from Ethanolamine. Alcohol Denatured. Do you know what this is? It's alcohol derived from fermented grain used as an Alkaline can be very drying but because a grain by product marketed as being natural! Very misleading
Why does Ammonia get such a bad wrap just because it smells ? The damage it can cause depends on the strength being used and the way applied timing, heat, temperature,

Ammonia! GET'S A BAD WRAP SO THEY CAN RELAUNCH OR SELL A NEW CONCEPT

High lift Blondes have an extra kick! Most hair colour lines have high lift blonde range, these again have an alkaline from some source however it may be that extra lift is promoted. In many cases companies also add  Ethanolamine to their high lift colour to open the cuticle more! They don't normally advertise or disclose this fact it's disclosed in the small print on the instructions on the paper work inside the box .
So why is MEA  such an  innovation? MEA now promoted to replace Ammonia can any one enlighten me?
Definition: 
MEA Monoethanolamine:
Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethlene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? Would you think that good for hair?

Definition:
Alcohol denatured:
A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
Sounds good too!


Definition:
Ammonia:
An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3,  first step in the nitrogen cycle.




Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material.Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia be aware some companies have levels way above this quite low level of working alkalinity.

So the choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.

So as we can see although some companies portray natural less harmful chemistry it is not always the case. adding natural oils or waxes to protect scalp to make application easier are all part of this process.
This is why knowledge research are key and empowering when it comes to colouring hair and the choices we make on products must go beyond what the sales rep or promotion material say.
I am not trying to scare just inform encourage thinking research!
Thank you!
       
                                             http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

Hairdressing Training complete. What next?

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR
regular postings of fresh new topic's  http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

To get inspired one needs to relax

Created as a source for advise education knowledge skill a place to share thoughts post comments  on matters relating to anything industry related.                         
copy right pending.

Time for Action:
You have completed your training been through college or an academy done an apprenticeship. Maybe you are in your early years of working in a salon starting to get experience in being part of a team working with the public getting an understanding of the service industry,
Most importantly learning about people and understanding how to listen to them the art of consultation. communication. 
You have trained for this new chosen profession worked hard so why do so many new young stylist   leave become disillusioned or stay with it but with resentment and anger.
What next is the world really your Oyster ? Can you really make it big can all your dreams come true happiness wealth success? or what ever else you dream of attaining! what is the key. Is it possible? I think with hard work commitment and realistic vision everything is possible.

The one and only answer is you and you alone can either put in the work be honest with your self about your ability your passion. What you are prepared to do to succeed possibly excel above others to have that edge.
So you can either blame others for. Poor training blame your self for not pay attention or be really honest with your self and enter into a program of self discovery and skill improvement.
A journey to improve your hands on skills lean how to understand what true service is. Are you ready to put ego aside invest in your self and your future. Become fully booked successful and enjoy your career get the rewards that hard work commitment attention to detail can afford you.
The biggest change of career for young stylist comes in the first three years after training graduation this is a sad waste of talent skill training time and money.
It does not have to be this way with professional help and guidance you can succeed establish your self as a highly qualified expert in the hairdressing industry.
As a stylist maybe you are struggling, making a living but bored, uninspired feel like each day is just a repeat of the previous one. If this is you then you need help need to have a inspiration goals target a formulation to turn things around and succeed.

If this is you we should talk work together come up with a workable realistic plan to get you on a road to success.
With over 35 years of experience what ever you needs and requirements what ever skills you need to improve on a program to work from and with can be designed, call it personal hands on help a sharing of experience
Are you Interested. I would very much like an opportunity to work with individuals small groups or salon's. In so many cases stylist fail salon's fail through fear of asking for help and guidance don't let this be you.
Fear and Ego are not your friend fear is only a fear until faced then it falls away lifted and can move forward face new challenges.
The real keys to your success are you the choices you make .
Service .Consultation .Communication. skill .Knowledge. Education up dates staying current.
http://www.doubleyoursalonsales.com/
So often we forget the the little things those simple things that make a difference. We lose or forget why we entered in to the world of Hairdressing, fashion style. We forget how to talk, to communicate all fundamental but how easy to forget. It's time for a refresher !
The above link is just that an easy read that could very well change your life change. How you do things. How you look at things the very essence of what drives and motivates you ! now that could be worth a read. a challenge worth taking.
As step by step guide to increased success increased sales that easy! no quite you have to do the work!
Mike B2MR
http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/
For links, contact information, help advise a place to comment.

Hair colouring nightmare! Part2 The fix

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 Links to original Topic/article:


http://mikeb2mr.wordpress.com/2011/03/10/hairdressing-nightmares-a-true-life-account/
http://back2myroots.tumblr.com/

The above are the links to the first part of this posting relaying a nightmare caused by poor choice and decision when embarking on lightening pre-coloured hair. The scenario demonstrates the pit falls of lifting hair that has a build up of colour. What can and does go wrong when not done correctly.
That being honesty with regard to expectation, realistic goals, and out come during the consultation process, and the need for a strand test.
So if you have not read the above posting please if you have time do.
So the fix!
So to review as you can see from either the first article or the first picture here, The attempt at lifting evenly from roots to ends was a failure. Leaving over lightened roots mid lengths with a real orange hue and very little lift on the ends. The desired effect was for toffee caramel low lights.

poor colour job before shot

The picture was provided by the client, but as you can see it really was a poor job.
When seeing this many thing came to mind apart from the poor job, also how the blonde just did not work with either skin tone or eye colour.
My suggestion was get rid of it ASAP!
Go back to being a rich dark healthy chocolate brown.
How would you do this, well it certainly would not require any more lift just a re build of the pigment base in the over lightened section then colour balance.

My suggestion would be to fill the over lightened section with a Demi formulation of either 7G or 7GC predominantly gold but with enough copper to balance with with warmth of the mid section. only apply to overly lifted area. leave for around 10 Minutes or[ follow your product directions ] remember you only need deposit formulation.
Once your chosen product has developed enough to deposit you can now think about final shade depth and Tone.
With the colour line i would use i would apply directly over top of first application. The same formulation being Dem deposit only zero lift. Here is where it gets interesting I will apply 4N directly over the top . Odd choice for some given as the N series is not always considered as a chosen colour.
But here is my thinking.
In this instance I am looking for a rich chocolate Brown. I have re introduced the missing pigment to the root area, but now i need to control that warmth to get the correct depth of colour.

look for location of orange section blue green section.

My 4N has a Blue green base
Check your colour wheel on your product ! green is made up of Blue+Yellow.
So given that we put on 7G the gold + Yellow + Red+yellow= orange
The 4N Blue + yellow +Blue= green
So the out come of this formulation is the Base of the 4N will control or neutralise the warmth creating a wonderful rich chocolate brown. 

As you can see from the colour wheel Orange sits across from Blue Green of the colour wheel so a perfect rich shade is possible.
Finally the after shot again provided by the client I did not carry out this colour fix but did advise her as what to get done and how.

Out come
The chosen formulation controlled all warmth and left her with a rich dark brown filling in all those unwanted shades and the nasty root lift.
Again this was all done with a Demi formulation for all those interested the process time is only 20 minutes so once applied  it's a very easy way to repair poor colour issues.
As a formulation it is none progressive so will not over deposit.
For any one interested Lanza Colour .

I hope this has been interesting for you as an exercise maybe it will encourage us all to think before we act.

Always have that consultation. Trust the colour wheel. Remember it's all about the service we offer our skill and knowledge, It's these things that enables us to keep our clients.

THANK YOU TO THE CLIENT. For allowing me to share and recount this experience.
Mike B2MR