Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic's
A place to share thoughts post comments and idea's on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.
Some colourist say "rules are made for breaking" Hum! Ego! is alive and well.
I say " understand and trust the colour wheel" it works !
When we think about hair colour. What goes through our head ? We pull out that shade chart but do we use it correctly? Be it to refer to or in some cases so we just drop it in a clients lap and say! What colour do you want today!!![ you may be smiling it happens]
How often do you consider what you want from that colour that tube of pigment.
The N series is designed for what? To give you a natural looking base shade and cover Grey hair. It can be applied to go darker or lighter given the formulation you choose and considering the working environment and your end goal.
My question today is?
Do you consider what the process is? What your asking of any given shade?
Lets take 8N for example a nice natural looking level of Blonde. what pigmentation would you expect and need from this miracle tube when working within a level 8 with 8N natural permanent tint/colour.
Why do I ask this? Because it's key.The same can be said for any given natural level and choice of N series. So back to question pigmentation. do you understand it?
The pigmentation of any N series should be enough pigment to control the hairs natural pigment at any given natural level.! hum what does this mean?
Well lets think about our level 8 natural level.
If we mix a very basic formulation lets say 30grams[1oz] 8N 45grams 20vol peroxide 11/2oz] what will happen? what do we, should we expect to happen?
The 20 volume peroxide will start to lift the hair through level 8 and into level 9 easy 20 vol 2 level lift
by doing this we are exposing bring out the natural pigment in the hair so in this instance yellow with a hint of orange [if unsure look at the shade chart and colour wheel]
So having exposed this pigment through our choice of Peroxide. We now have to know [hope is not good enough] that our N series has enough pigment to deal with the issue we have created. So what do we need?
Our Natural series must have a pigmentation of Blue Violet to control the pigment exposed and keep our colour natural. We have to control that yellow orange and restore balance.
A great deal to expect from a little tube of colour the same can be said for any natural level. We have to consider what we want from our colour but more importantly consider the formulation and what to expect from it.
Of course if previously coloured hair and a root application we would have to colour balance the mid lengths and ends this would not be done with the N series or with peroxide. a Demi application and choice of matching shade will refresh previously coloured hair deposit only.
The key is to take the time to think lift deposit that is what am i going to expose how do i control it!
it's balance it's harmony between blue yellow and red at any given level!
The same can be applied to all shades Gold, Copper, Reds. Our choice of peroxide on any given natural level dictates. Whether our colour will be really bright or controlled. Why because we are adding pigment to the colour as soon as we lift the hair's natural level!
So please consider. It's not just a tube that works wonders ! It's a tube of pigment designed to help you attain you target colour, it's use it's application is down to you!
A poor Colourist technician. Stylist will always blame the colour .The reality is it's not the colour!
Take a look in the mirror yes that's the problem !! education skill knowledge ,
Think about what your wanting from that colour. Understand it. Read the technical book in your shade chart! yes the black stuff ! It's called colour chart and manual for a reason.
The same applies to want wanting bright vibrant colours to enhance your choice on the shade chart. Think about the natural level and what pigment you can expose to enhance it. Maybe a Bright Red or Copper? if you don't want the warmth think about level peroxide. Also what pigment base will control
the pigment you will expose! back to the colour wheel! remember opposite neutralise!
have fun. But be professional responsible produce the very best colour and create the very best look you can.
Mike B2MR
Friday, 4 March 2011
Thursday, 3 March 2011
Creating texture razor hair cuts
Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic's http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/
Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea's on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.
Razor hair cutting tools and skill
This started out as a razor cutting blog. Exciting and easy for me as razor cutting is my passion second only to hair colouring.
So it's my hope you enjoy this and it pushes those buttons to get you wanting to explore the world of razor techniques.
The various techniques the creative texture can that can be created. Soft looks with unlimited movement and no demarcation lines. It has been over 15years since I last cut hair with scissors.
This has been a wonderful journey for me into understanding how hair falls. How to create shape and form. working with clients in this time i have not had a single client request from a client to go back to using scissors. Or any complaints about the shape look or way it has grown out. why is this? I hope this article explains all.
So down to Business
How to do a razor Cut:
When we think Razor cutting. I think in most cases ones thought go directly to our friend the cut throat or open razor. A valuable tool indeed. A tool that needs to be respected a tool not to fear:
Learning how to do. A razor cut How to use the tools to create wonderful new free textured looks comes with much practice and Experience.
That is not saying don't try but don't just slash away without thought to shape and weight distribution.
My personal opinion is that one should have a full understanding of hair cutting creating forming building shape before playing with razors.
To get the most out of razor cutting one has to understand weight distribution, hair growth patterns, texture, how to build shape and form. Can you do you visualize the shape you want to create in 3D before you start? when finished does it look the way you hoped?
Master the art of scissor cutting and indeed thinning and texture shears before moving on.
With the sketch on the right i'm trying to show the curve plains on the head the curves directly impact the angles and so the weight distribution and shape we create,
These angles have to be considered and understood to be able to do frees style hair cutting:
Over the years i have seen so many hairdressers using thinning shears to cut hair when you ask them what do you think what your doing will do to the shape they look blankly or say thinning and texture of course yes but what about the shape the weight distribution!
Maybe you don't agree with me that's great let share exchange some thoughts?
I have been doing hair for many years i remember the first time the penny dropped
with regard to weight distribution and creating shape! It was so exciting it was like someone turned on a light.
{ this was well over 20 years ago her name was Lesley
and i gave her an amazing Scissor hair cut memories}
To this day I still get that buzz when it
just works!
So these little sucker's claw's:
I diverse a little these are amazing on thick hair Asian hair I have cut a really textured Bob just using these but again you have to understand weight and shape and how hair falls moves and swings.
They have little blades as you use them the more pressure you apply with your fingers they hair will be removed as you drag them down the shaft in a combing motion as you can see below on this short little hair cut.
{LEFT ME CUTTING WITH THE CLAW'S}
Maybe I'm getting ahead of things lessons demonstration are the best way to learn these skills: I would be happy to share them with any one who would like a class.
their are so many techniques available to us with a razor and indeed so many different types of razor.
A skilled person can cut a Blunt Bob even use razor over comb, do layered cut, feather a fringe the sky is the limit My favorite tool is a feather razor i use this instead of scissors and cut hair in little points rather than a strait line. { Think about the shape of the head the angles you create?} you cannot cut a strait line on a curved surface you create the illusion of this! cool ha.
The right razor for the job:
It has to be a feather style razor:
I use Kashio Blades they have the best edge and last the longest maybe a few hair cuts over a year i may spend the same amount as a good pair of scissors but think about how nice it is to have a new fresh blade it glides through the hair. { it is by choice the tool of my trade}
It is widely thought that razor cutting is only suitable on certain types of hair in my experience this is not the case.
What needs to be considered is the technique that you are going to use to get the best out of any given hair type.
Once you get to this level of understanding their is no right or wrong way to do a razor cut it becomes a new art form freestyle cutting.
I was inspired by a dear friend whilst working in Vancouver at the time he was Artistic Director for L'anza USA {Mr john Bertorelli } What John could do with a razor was and is to this day an inspiration a true artist i owe him a great deal he encouraged me to push my boundaries to step into the unknown i did and have never looked back.
I became a platform artist working for L'anza Canada as a Colour educator and also teaching razor cutting.
{This little baby is a glass crystal razor}
In days gone bye i spent a great deal of time one summer cutting hair on the beach in Greece imagine this sea, sand, beer, hair cuts maybe not the best combination in the world {right!} but did you know that you can cut hair with a broken beer bottle the glass get dull very quickly but you can do a great cut.
Well that story was needed because the a razor to the right has a glass blade and it was through messing around in Greece that i knew when i found this tool that it had many applications:
Amazing for texture long and indeed curly hair so all those beers on the beach in Greece were not wasted it was an investment in my art.
When it comes to style creating that new look have fun
Challenge your self push the envelope get new skills invest in your self go on course
learn new techniques watch others share idea's we never stop learning we just have to keep moving forward!
A great place to find razors shears and interact with on their face book page committed to professional tools for professional stylists:
I have a group page for thoughts and discussions leave comments. or join follow this blog here.
Exploring techniques with a razor will open up a hole new world of creativity:
If you need would like help encouragement group or individual instruction I'm sure i could help you reach a new level of expertise.
Mike B2MR
http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/
full contact details on my web site:
.
Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea's on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.
Razor hair cutting tools and skill
This started out as a razor cutting blog. Exciting and easy for me as razor cutting is my passion second only to hair colouring.
So it's my hope you enjoy this and it pushes those buttons to get you wanting to explore the world of razor techniques.
The various techniques the creative texture can that can be created. Soft looks with unlimited movement and no demarcation lines. It has been over 15years since I last cut hair with scissors.
This has been a wonderful journey for me into understanding how hair falls. How to create shape and form. working with clients in this time i have not had a single client request from a client to go back to using scissors. Or any complaints about the shape look or way it has grown out. why is this? I hope this article explains all.
So down to Business
![]() |
| cut throat razor |
When we think Razor cutting. I think in most cases ones thought go directly to our friend the cut throat or open razor. A valuable tool indeed. A tool that needs to be respected a tool not to fear:
Learning how to do. A razor cut How to use the tools to create wonderful new free textured looks comes with much practice and Experience.
That is not saying don't try but don't just slash away without thought to shape and weight distribution.
My personal opinion is that one should have a full understanding of hair cutting creating forming building shape before playing with razors.
![]() |
Hand drawn the angles i process when building shape: ![]() |
Master the art of scissor cutting and indeed thinning and texture shears before moving on.
With the sketch on the right i'm trying to show the curve plains on the head the curves directly impact the angles and so the weight distribution and shape we create,
These angles have to be considered and understood to be able to do frees style hair cutting:
Over the years i have seen so many hairdressers using thinning shears to cut hair when you ask them what do you think what your doing will do to the shape they look blankly or say thinning and texture of course yes but what about the shape the weight distribution!
Maybe you don't agree with me that's great let share exchange some thoughts?
I have been doing hair for many years i remember the first time the penny dropped
with regard to weight distribution and creating shape! It was so exciting it was like someone turned on a light.
{ this was well over 20 years ago her name was Lesley
![]() |
| The claw's |
To this day I still get that buzz when it
just works!
So these little sucker's claw's:
I diverse a little these are amazing on thick hair Asian hair I have cut a really textured Bob just using these but again you have to understand weight and shape and how hair falls moves and swings.
They have little blades as you use them the more pressure you apply with your fingers they hair will be removed as you drag them down the shaft in a combing motion as you can see below on this short little hair cut.
![]() |
| Me working with the claw's on a model: |
{LEFT ME CUTTING WITH THE CLAW'S}
Maybe I'm getting ahead of things lessons demonstration are the best way to learn these skills: I would be happy to share them with any one who would like a class.
their are so many techniques available to us with a razor and indeed so many different types of razor.
A skilled person can cut a Blunt Bob even use razor over comb, do layered cut, feather a fringe the sky is the limit My favorite tool is a feather razor i use this instead of scissors and cut hair in little points rather than a strait line. { Think about the shape of the head the angles you create?} you cannot cut a strait line on a curved surface you create the illusion of this! cool ha.
The right razor for the job:
It has to be a feather style razor:
I use Kashio Blades they have the best edge and last the longest maybe a few hair cuts over a year i may spend the same amount as a good pair of scissors but think about how nice it is to have a new fresh blade it glides through the hair. { it is by choice the tool of my trade}
It is widely thought that razor cutting is only suitable on certain types of hair in my experience this is not the case.
What needs to be considered is the technique that you are going to use to get the best out of any given hair type.
Once you get to this level of understanding their is no right or wrong way to do a razor cut it becomes a new art form freestyle cutting.
I was inspired by a dear friend whilst working in Vancouver at the time he was Artistic Director for L'anza USA {Mr john Bertorelli } What John could do with a razor was and is to this day an inspiration a true artist i owe him a great deal he encouraged me to push my boundaries to step into the unknown i did and have never looked back.
I became a platform artist working for L'anza Canada as a Colour educator and also teaching razor cutting.
![]() |
| Crystal blade razor:glass blade |
In days gone bye i spent a great deal of time one summer cutting hair on the beach in Greece imagine this sea, sand, beer, hair cuts maybe not the best combination in the world {right!} but did you know that you can cut hair with a broken beer bottle the glass get dull very quickly but you can do a great cut.
Well that story was needed because the a razor to the right has a glass blade and it was through messing around in Greece that i knew when i found this tool that it had many applications:
Amazing for texture long and indeed curly hair so all those beers on the beach in Greece were not wasted it was an investment in my art.
When it comes to style creating that new look have fun
Challenge your self push the envelope get new skills invest in your self go on course
learn new techniques watch others share idea's we never stop learning we just have to keep moving forward!A great place to find razors shears and interact with on their face book page committed to professional tools for professional stylists:
I have a group page for thoughts and discussions leave comments. or join follow this blog here.
Exploring techniques with a razor will open up a hole new world of creativity:
If you need would like help encouragement group or individual instruction I'm sure i could help you reach a new level of expertise.
Mike B2MR
http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/
full contact details on my web site:
.
Monday, 28 February 2011
Bleaching toning condition damage.
Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic's http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/
Hair Lighteners: Powder Bleach, Oil or Gel.
Before Embarking On lightening hair one has to understand the chemistry of the product and how the process works.
Hair Lighteners and Decolourizers come in many forms and are designed to remove Colour from the hair. Basically they are Alkalisers.
How do these work:
They are products that supply Sufficient Alkali to destabilise hydrogen peroxide, when the two products are mixed together the Hydrogen attacks the pigment in the hair and Lightens it.
Hydrogen Peroxide is Stabilised in a bottle with a low Ph around {3.00-3.5} adding the lightener be it {powder or liquid-gel} brings the mixture up to a Ph of around 9.0 triggering oxygen release.
Types of Lighteners:
Bleach powder Lighteners are for the most part Stronger and faster acting. Generally used for off scalp Lightening application. { always do skin and stand test} Lifting Ability depends on the strength of hydrogen peroxide.
Lotions Oil -Gel:
These have a smoother consistency and are formulated to protect the skin/ scalp from the lightening process.
{Be advised that adding heat/ dry or steam will change the way these products react: powder bleach can dry out under heat!}
Ingredients:
The chemical Structure of lighteners are Ammonia.Ammonia hydroxide,Magnesium silicate,and sodium. quite the mix all lighteners have to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide.
{ Be advised hair that has been coloured with any kind of metallic rinse, colour or stain, will create a heat reaction that can cause burning so do your home work!}
When to use:
A key tool for colour correction, but generally they are used when other products available cannot give the desired degree of Lightening.{ Remember High lift Tint will only give max 4levels of lift when mixed with 40vol Peroxide}
Uses: High-lights, pastel blonde look when hair is strongly or pigmented darker shades.
Mixing: Always follow Instructions on each given product! for lotions/gel /oil double amount of Hydrogen peroxide is often called for. lotions and lighteners/Booster powders must always be mixed in Sequence,{note: mixed out of sequence can result in uneven lift!}
Stages of Lightening:
When lifting /lightening hair it goes through what is known as the 7 stages of lift. It has no limits it can remove all pigment from the hair.
Remember the Colour wheel: {you can see shades in the outer} wheel
The stages are as follows.
Red-Brown. Red. Red-orange. orange-yellow. yellow -orange.
yellow.pale yellow.
The first colour is always the stronger shade!
The deeper the base shade the more stages of lift required its a journey don't rush it.
Advantages:
*lightens hair.
*Can be used for colour Correction.
*Adds Texture.
Disadvantages:
*re-growth needs to be maintained.
*Can damage hair.
*Can cause Skin irritation.
* Hair should be protected form Uv -sun light.
Summing Up:
A very useful Tool for us to have but should be respected and understood, I advocate the best path is the one with the least chemistry possible.
Lets re touch on bleach bath/ Cocktail:
What is a bleach bath used for? It is a tool that we have at our disposal to gently lift unwanted pigment from the hair. It is classed as the first line of attack when doing Colour correction:
One would use this formula to lift pigment {note it does not remove pigment} prior to toning or adding your fun colour.
As i have stated before if you are going bright red you don"t need to remove all pigment yellow or orange is fine! if you want true blue you have to get rid of the yellow toning would do this!
Formula for Cocktail. 1/2 OZ Clarifying shampoo 1oz water. 1oz 20 vol peroxide or developer. 1oz/or scoop of bleach.
Wet hair wear Gloves apply and work into your hair for 10 to 15 mins. wash out really well if you don't get enough lift don't give up mix up second batch re apply. don't rinse out re-apply the water stops the action. Remember lift is all about timing;and observation.
It is a miss conception in thinking that 40vol is stronger than 20 vol not true its just long lasting in how long it lifts for {How long the hydrogen gas re acts the oxygen}.
What is toner
Toner is basically a tube or bottle of pigment no peroxide designed to neutralize the unwanted pigment you have exposed or created. Deposit only no lift when using toner you need to watch what you are doing it keeps on working so you decide on the tone you want!
All these shades are toners:
B/green/orange base beige neut pale yellow.
G/ yellow/orange base gold
V/ red/ blue Violet neut yellow
A/blue /yellow Green Ash neut orange
To the right a classic case for toning in my view way to yellow gold?
What would you do here?
To Beige this out lose the warm root hue Violet Toner is required
worked into the hair for a few minutes it will neutralize the warmth
their is no exact time for toning it's a visual hands on exercise.
do not apply and walk away thinking 20 minutes should be fine!
you may well get over deposit and sludge!
http://www.trichocare.co.uk/
I found the above sight they have a product for doing skin allergy testing worth a look!
Here is some information on the above product with so many chemicals and trace elements in colours a topic to be covered very soon one cannot be to careful.
Quote from sight:
Colourstart is a unique patch test used by hairdressers as a skin allergy test. These tests help the hairdresser to check if clients are likely to have a problem with hair dye. The alternative is often unpopular and impractical for clients. Colourstart is used on clients who do not have time to visit the salon 48 hours before every application. It is used on clients who do not want hair dye left open on their skin.
Colourstart is one of the most important advancements in professional hairdressing. It helps to improve client satisfaction and safety in the salon
Due to its benefits and ease of use, Colourstart is rapidly becoming an industry standard.
Mike B2MR
![]() |
| lifting agent bleach powder: |
Hair Lighteners: Powder Bleach, Oil or Gel.
Before Embarking On lightening hair one has to understand the chemistry of the product and how the process works.
Hair Lighteners and Decolourizers come in many forms and are designed to remove Colour from the hair. Basically they are Alkalisers.
How do these work:
They are products that supply Sufficient Alkali to destabilise hydrogen peroxide, when the two products are mixed together the Hydrogen attacks the pigment in the hair and Lightens it.
Hydrogen Peroxide is Stabilised in a bottle with a low Ph around {3.00-3.5} adding the lightener be it {powder or liquid-gel} brings the mixture up to a Ph of around 9.0 triggering oxygen release.
Types of Lighteners:
Bleach powder Lighteners are for the most part Stronger and faster acting. Generally used for off scalp Lightening application. { always do skin and stand test} Lifting Ability depends on the strength of hydrogen peroxide.
Lotions Oil -Gel:
These have a smoother consistency and are formulated to protect the skin/ scalp from the lightening process.
{Be advised that adding heat/ dry or steam will change the way these products react: powder bleach can dry out under heat!}
Ingredients:
The chemical Structure of lighteners are Ammonia.Ammonia hydroxide,Magnesium silicate,and sodium. quite the mix all lighteners have to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide.
{ Be advised hair that has been coloured with any kind of metallic rinse, colour or stain, will create a heat reaction that can cause burning so do your home work!}
When to use:
A key tool for colour correction, but generally they are used when other products available cannot give the desired degree of Lightening.{ Remember High lift Tint will only give max 4levels of lift when mixed with 40vol Peroxide}
Uses: High-lights, pastel blonde look when hair is strongly or pigmented darker shades.
Mixing: Always follow Instructions on each given product! for lotions/gel /oil double amount of Hydrogen peroxide is often called for. lotions and lighteners/Booster powders must always be mixed in Sequence,{note: mixed out of sequence can result in uneven lift!}
Stages of Lightening:
When lifting /lightening hair it goes through what is known as the 7 stages of lift. It has no limits it can remove all pigment from the hair.
Remember the Colour wheel: {you can see shades in the outer} wheel
The stages are as follows.
Red-Brown. Red. Red-orange. orange-yellow. yellow -orange.
yellow.pale yellow.
The first colour is always the stronger shade!
The deeper the base shade the more stages of lift required its a journey don't rush it.
Advantages:
*lightens hair.
*Can be used for colour Correction.
*Adds Texture.
Disadvantages:
*re-growth needs to be maintained.
*Can damage hair.
*Can cause Skin irritation.
* Hair should be protected form Uv -sun light.
Summing Up:
A very useful Tool for us to have but should be respected and understood, I advocate the best path is the one with the least chemistry possible.
Lets re touch on bleach bath/ Cocktail:
What is a bleach bath used for? It is a tool that we have at our disposal to gently lift unwanted pigment from the hair. It is classed as the first line of attack when doing Colour correction:
One would use this formula to lift pigment {note it does not remove pigment} prior to toning or adding your fun colour.
As i have stated before if you are going bright red you don"t need to remove all pigment yellow or orange is fine! if you want true blue you have to get rid of the yellow toning would do this!
Formula for Cocktail. 1/2 OZ Clarifying shampoo 1oz water. 1oz 20 vol peroxide or developer. 1oz/or scoop of bleach.
Wet hair wear Gloves apply and work into your hair for 10 to 15 mins. wash out really well if you don't get enough lift don't give up mix up second batch re apply. don't rinse out re-apply the water stops the action. Remember lift is all about timing;and observation.
It is a miss conception in thinking that 40vol is stronger than 20 vol not true its just long lasting in how long it lifts for {How long the hydrogen gas re acts the oxygen}.
What is toner
Toner is basically a tube or bottle of pigment no peroxide designed to neutralize the unwanted pigment you have exposed or created. Deposit only no lift when using toner you need to watch what you are doing it keeps on working so you decide on the tone you want!
![]() |
| High lift Blonde series: |
B/green/orange base beige neut pale yellow.
G/ yellow/orange base gold
V/ red/ blue Violet neut yellow
A/blue /yellow Green Ash neut orange
To the right a classic case for toning in my view way to yellow gold?
What would you do here?
To Beige this out lose the warm root hue Violet Toner is required
worked into the hair for a few minutes it will neutralize the warmth
their is no exact time for toning it's a visual hands on exercise.
do not apply and walk away thinking 20 minutes should be fine!
you may well get over deposit and sludge!
http://www.trichocare.co.uk/
I found the above sight they have a product for doing skin allergy testing worth a look!
Here is some information on the above product with so many chemicals and trace elements in colours a topic to be covered very soon one cannot be to careful.
Quote from sight:
Colourstart is a unique patch test used by hairdressers as a skin allergy test. These tests help the hairdresser to check if clients are likely to have a problem with hair dye. The alternative is often unpopular and impractical for clients. Colourstart is used on clients who do not have time to visit the salon 48 hours before every application. It is used on clients who do not want hair dye left open on their skin.
Colourstart is one of the most important advancements in professional hairdressing. It helps to improve client satisfaction and safety in the salon
Due to its benefits and ease of use, Colourstart is rapidly becoming an industry standard.
Mike B2MR
Friday, 25 February 2011
Hairdressing passion, vocation, challenge.
Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:
Regular postings of fresh new topic's http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/
It is my goal to establish a platform to share the creativity, knowledge, and technical Skills:
I have had the good fortune to experience so many aspects of the hair industry with both fellow stylists and so many wonderful clients many who over the years have become good friends
Let me tell you a little about my professional background.
I began my training as a teenager doing my apprenticeship in London Mayfair working in a very busy, high profile salon while continuing to expand my training with other top London salons.
I moved to London's Chelsea - Kensington area to manage a salon, becoming a director and shareholder there before moving on to own and run my own salon in London Clapham district.
In the late 80's I made the move to Canada, starting off on in Ontario and ending up on the West Coast in Vancouver. After many years great years there we made decision to fly back across the pond to resettle here in the UK.
My introduction to the hairdressing world in Vancouver on the Canadian west coast was after a meeting with Mr Jon paul Holt owner of internationally acclaimed Avantgarde Artistic Center in the down town area of Yaletown after this meeting i was fortunate to be offered a job this was the start of a very special life long friendship.
Whilst working the the salon i became more and more involved in Avant garde hair salon on photo shoots and hair shows.
Whilst at Avantgarde we did hair shows such as the Alternative Hair Show at the Royal Albert Hall in London, Fashion Cares in Vancouver put on as a fund raiser for aids research by Mac Make up Salon International a main show event for the Canadian hair industry as well as participating in all the national trade shows throughout Canada.
I developed an interest in this area of the industry and got more and more involved in competitive work. Within my first year I was a runner up in the L' Oreal colour competition for British Columbia.
A pivotal point thus far in my career came when I decided to focus
my career on education and stage work in addition to continuing my hairdressing business specializing in corrective colour work,
I became the West Coast Education Consultant and a Platform Artist for L’anza Canada, based on Vancouver island working throughout Canada and on occasion in the USA on photo shoots and shows, putting together collections for upcoming seasons and training and working with a team of advanced talented stylists.
I continue to challenge myself and learn more I also became involved in the teaching side of hairstyling and have been teaching in salons and professional hairdressing colleges for the past few years.
My passion for the industry remains strong and I have continued my work as a professional hairdresser to keep my skills up-to-date and learn about this ever changing craft. I began this venture to inspire clients as well as new and existing stylists with the view to sharing my knowledge and creativity with others and raising the standard of hairdressing and training and finding like minded stylists to work.
I am also very interested in hair colour how and why it works, as i research more and more i discover so much about the how the why but also the way that companies represent there products as being safe natural herbal it truly is quite remarkable, I think its key that we all strive to understand both the product how they work what they do trusting trusting the sales rep is not enough ask questions seek out informative education material strive to become an expert.
whilst Blogging and responding to articles and reviews it amazes me how many stylist recommend products make bold statements with out the slightest knowledge of the chemistry. trusting in what they have been told to this ends my real interest is in the science of all these natural product these herbal organic hair colours, i have yet to find one that does not have a chemical disguised in it's formula.
Some of the Major hair colour companies are very good at hiding facts or projecting the image they want us to project and sell to our clients.
Ammonia free all Natural, Organic, Herbal do you really know how they work ? would you like to know.
Henna and natural stains and colour how good are they really what are the down falls?
I write my Blog but hope it will open the door to some new exciting avenue of knowledge and sharing.
I can work with small groups /salons or individual stylist on any skills and ways to improve business and client retention you can contact me via my web site.
Mike
http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/ all hair done whilst on the Avantgarde artistic team thanks Jp
Regular postings of fresh new topic's http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/
It is my goal to establish a platform to share the creativity, knowledge, and technical Skills:
I have had the good fortune to experience so many aspects of the hair industry with both fellow stylists and so many wonderful clients many who over the years have become good friends
Let me tell you a little about my professional background.
I began my training as a teenager doing my apprenticeship in London Mayfair working in a very busy, high profile salon while continuing to expand my training with other top London salons.
I moved to London's Chelsea - Kensington area to manage a salon, becoming a director and shareholder there before moving on to own and run my own salon in London Clapham district.
In the late 80's I made the move to Canada, starting off on in Ontario and ending up on the West Coast in Vancouver. After many years great years there we made decision to fly back across the pond to resettle here in the UK.
My introduction to the hairdressing world in Vancouver on the Canadian west coast was after a meeting with Mr Jon paul Holt owner of internationally acclaimed Avantgarde Artistic Center in the down town area of Yaletown after this meeting i was fortunate to be offered a job this was the start of a very special life long friendship.
Whilst working the the salon i became more and more involved in Avant garde hair salon on photo shoots and hair shows.
Whilst at Avantgarde we did hair shows such as the Alternative Hair Show at the Royal Albert Hall in London, Fashion Cares in Vancouver put on as a fund raiser for aids research by Mac Make up Salon International a main show event for the Canadian hair industry as well as participating in all the national trade shows throughout Canada.
I developed an interest in this area of the industry and got more and more involved in competitive work. Within my first year I was a runner up in the L' Oreal colour competition for British Columbia.
A pivotal point thus far in my career came when I decided to focus
my career on education and stage work in addition to continuing my hairdressing business specializing in corrective colour work,
I became the West Coast Education Consultant and a Platform Artist for L’anza Canada, based on Vancouver island working throughout Canada and on occasion in the USA on photo shoots and shows, putting together collections for upcoming seasons and training and working with a team of advanced talented stylists.
I continue to challenge myself and learn more I also became involved in the teaching side of hairstyling and have been teaching in salons and professional hairdressing colleges for the past few years.
My passion for the industry remains strong and I have continued my work as a professional hairdresser to keep my skills up-to-date and learn about this ever changing craft. I began this venture to inspire clients as well as new and existing stylists with the view to sharing my knowledge and creativity with others and raising the standard of hairdressing and training and finding like minded stylists to work.
I am also very interested in hair colour how and why it works, as i research more and more i discover so much about the how the why but also the way that companies represent there products as being safe natural herbal it truly is quite remarkable, I think its key that we all strive to understand both the product how they work what they do trusting trusting the sales rep is not enough ask questions seek out informative education material strive to become an expert.
whilst Blogging and responding to articles and reviews it amazes me how many stylist recommend products make bold statements with out the slightest knowledge of the chemistry. trusting in what they have been told to this ends my real interest is in the science of all these natural product these herbal organic hair colours, i have yet to find one that does not have a chemical disguised in it's formula.
Some of the Major hair colour companies are very good at hiding facts or projecting the image they want us to project and sell to our clients.
Ammonia free all Natural, Organic, Herbal do you really know how they work ? would you like to know.
Henna and natural stains and colour how good are they really what are the down falls?
I write my Blog but hope it will open the door to some new exciting avenue of knowledge and sharing.
I can work with small groups /salons or individual stylist on any skills and ways to improve business and client retention you can contact me via my web site.
Mike
http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/ all hair done whilst on the Avantgarde artistic team thanks Jp
Friday, 18 February 2011
Natural Red heads wanting to go lighter. The issues
Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:
Regular postings of fresh new topic's
I don't quite remember when the penny really dropped about understanding hair colour. I don't just mean the application of it . I refer to understanding. Lift. Deposit. Pigment achieving that desired perfect colour and shade.
A challenge in it self but some natural colours are harder to cope with than others. Depending on what the desired shade is.
So lets take a look at our warm shades Reds, Coppers, Rich brunette.
Lets use a scenario of wanting to go lighter. By that i suggest a Blonde shade. Most people who want blonde do not want to see. Orange or Yellow.
This create many issues for our natural reds and coppers heads, so lets take a look at what may arise and some option of how to address them.
In so many cases the main thing to consider are? How light to go? What shade of blonde is achievable? The consultation process is key here before making any application of colour, bleach/decolouriser.
With Red pigment being the hardest to lift and control a realistic vision and a game plan are the key to success.
With a natural bright copper colour [sometimes know as ginger]. A bright copper natural base shade would normally be around a level 7 on any shade chart. So quite light and yet full of those pigment tones red and red orange, yellow. To get to any shade of Blonde we have to lift up to and beyond level 9 and infact 10 and beyond and be able to control pigment exposed.
The issue being. As you manage to lift the red and orange pigment out you then hit the yellow pigment bar. Because of the strong pigment in this hair the yellow pigment will be really intense so mistakes can be made when controlling it with a toner.
I have seen so many natural Bright copper heads with attempts at highlights that can look. Green, dull metallic, drab.
The main reason is choice of toner. In many cases we reach as stylists for a toner with an ash base, but lets think about this ash is blue base toner, blue and yellow make? Green hence the dull drab tone
Consider using a violet base.Why? Well we have lifted the hair removing all the red pigment. There was hardly any blue to start with. So to find a balance of shade we have to replace the missing pigment red and blue, this equals Violet in some cases maybe a blue violet base could be required.
Its all about considering the pigment you have exposed and what your target is. Its also worth mentioning that one needs to consider skin tone and eye colour when taking a natural copper level into blonde shades will it look good!
The same consideration should be applied to rich brunettes although a little blue pigment on the surface you with be lifting from around a natural level 5 into reds then copper orange, my suggested goal here would be a caramel shade not to blonde it will look dull yellow slightly dirty!
Lift to a pale orange yellow shade. Then tone with a blue violet toner. This will re balance the pigment exposed leaving a really rich caramel highlight.
Again when lifting the hair consider skin tone eye colour. A natural brunette will normally have brown or hazel eye colour so to light will wash out the skin and the eyes will not pop!
The main considerations as stated are. Natural hair level, skin tone, eye colour. A realistic vision of lifted goal level. Will the desired look be flattering? It's not our goal to dictate but is is to advise,honestly in the consultation process.
Consider the pigment you will be encountering make sure you have thought through what you are doing and what look you want. It's all about pigment control. Understanding the colour wheel trusting the colour wheel. Yes trusting the laws of colour. Do this and you will not have unwanted tone.
Know your products that is the colours you use know how they work what you can expect from them.
If you are lifting hair that has been previously coloured I would suggest consultation strand test. I would suggest working from the ends into the roots when lifting?
Many more issues can arise from this topic but i hope this creates thoughts and raises some questions maybe even comments.
Mike B2MR
http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/
Regular postings of fresh new topic's
I don't quite remember when the penny really dropped about understanding hair colour. I don't just mean the application of it . I refer to understanding. Lift. Deposit. Pigment achieving that desired perfect colour and shade.
A challenge in it self but some natural colours are harder to cope with than others. Depending on what the desired shade is.
So lets take a look at our warm shades Reds, Coppers, Rich brunette.
Lets use a scenario of wanting to go lighter. By that i suggest a Blonde shade. Most people who want blonde do not want to see. Orange or Yellow.
This create many issues for our natural reds and coppers heads, so lets take a look at what may arise and some option of how to address them.
In so many cases the main thing to consider are? How light to go? What shade of blonde is achievable? The consultation process is key here before making any application of colour, bleach/decolouriser.
With Red pigment being the hardest to lift and control a realistic vision and a game plan are the key to success.
With a natural bright copper colour [sometimes know as ginger]. A bright copper natural base shade would normally be around a level 7 on any shade chart. So quite light and yet full of those pigment tones red and red orange, yellow. To get to any shade of Blonde we have to lift up to and beyond level 9 and infact 10 and beyond and be able to control pigment exposed.
The issue being. As you manage to lift the red and orange pigment out you then hit the yellow pigment bar. Because of the strong pigment in this hair the yellow pigment will be really intense so mistakes can be made when controlling it with a toner.
I have seen so many natural Bright copper heads with attempts at highlights that can look. Green, dull metallic, drab.
The main reason is choice of toner. In many cases we reach as stylists for a toner with an ash base, but lets think about this ash is blue base toner, blue and yellow make? Green hence the dull drab tone
Consider using a violet base.Why? Well we have lifted the hair removing all the red pigment. There was hardly any blue to start with. So to find a balance of shade we have to replace the missing pigment red and blue, this equals Violet in some cases maybe a blue violet base could be required.
Its all about considering the pigment you have exposed and what your target is. Its also worth mentioning that one needs to consider skin tone and eye colour when taking a natural copper level into blonde shades will it look good!
The same consideration should be applied to rich brunettes although a little blue pigment on the surface you with be lifting from around a natural level 5 into reds then copper orange, my suggested goal here would be a caramel shade not to blonde it will look dull yellow slightly dirty!
Lift to a pale orange yellow shade. Then tone with a blue violet toner. This will re balance the pigment exposed leaving a really rich caramel highlight.
Again when lifting the hair consider skin tone eye colour. A natural brunette will normally have brown or hazel eye colour so to light will wash out the skin and the eyes will not pop!
The main considerations as stated are. Natural hair level, skin tone, eye colour. A realistic vision of lifted goal level. Will the desired look be flattering? It's not our goal to dictate but is is to advise,honestly in the consultation process.
Consider the pigment you will be encountering make sure you have thought through what you are doing and what look you want. It's all about pigment control. Understanding the colour wheel trusting the colour wheel. Yes trusting the laws of colour. Do this and you will not have unwanted tone.
Know your products that is the colours you use know how they work what you can expect from them.
If you are lifting hair that has been previously coloured I would suggest consultation strand test. I would suggest working from the ends into the roots when lifting?
Many more issues can arise from this topic but i hope this creates thoughts and raises some questions maybe even comments.
Mike B2MR
http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/
Wednesday, 16 February 2011
Spring time to think Blonde
Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR.
regular postings of fresh new topic's http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/
It is my goal to create a platform that over time will become a place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.
Spring perfect time to think Blonde
Its almost Spring. The perfect time to consider going blonde, having that sun kissed look whilst wishing for those long hot summer days.That hot holiday hair colour we long for to match that fun summer tan.
If you feel the need have the desire to brighten up your hair style with a fun new blonde look?
It doesn’t matter how dark or light your natural hair color is or if you have dark or pale skin tone, there is always a shade of blonde hair to suit you.
Blonde is still the most popular hair color choice for most women! Of course if you have already coloured your hair then you will have to take this into consideration when thinking about a shade or discuss with your stylist whats possible.
Here are some fun ideas if you want to let that inner blonde out to play for a while.
If you have shoulder length hair in a brunette tone. Skip going for over-all blonde color. Instead apply some rich caramel highlights throughout your style, focusing on the crown and where the part lands. Your textured waves combined with the rich highlights will reflect the sunlight and create an eye-catching look. This will start you on the road to blonde with out over processing.
Long hair
If your long hair is damaged or dull, purchase a good color protecting shampoo and conditioner to use before, during and after you color your hair. Treating your damaged hair from roots to ends is an important factor in maintaining colored styles. For very long hair highlights are a better form of colour than an all over application and help prevent root-re growth issues,
Finding the right shade
Before you decide on a shade of blonde. Take into consideration your skin tone and eye color. Also consider your current hair color for it certainly plays a part in choices and possible out come of the new colour you are working towards
If you currently have bleached blonde hair, you may want to opt for a deeper, richer shade of blonde.This might require putting some pigment back into your hair if bleached very light. If your skin tone is very pale, you may want to keep your blonde shade a bit lighter.
Dark brunettes. A deep honey highlight throughout your style might be best, you are then working with your hairs natural pigment rather than fighting it, try to avoid bleaching as this just damages your hair.
Choose your colour carefully consider all your options. You may need to seek professional advise. Remember combining a fun new blonde hair color with a new cut can completely change the way you look and feel about yourself and the way others look and see you!
Layering colors
Applying a variety of blonde hair colors throughout your hair on various areas of layering creates a very striking and unique look. If you have a light brown base then highlights to lighten the top sections keeping your layers underneath dark this gives dimension and a great two tones look . This type of coloring looks particularly good on straight, medium-length hair with short or longer bangs.

A few Examples of Blonde looks:
These are just a few thoughts and ideas for those interested in creating a new blonde hair color try to do something different and new with your blonde hair this season.Blonde hair in small or large doses is a good way to update your appearance and help lift your mood!
In the fall, autumn with a demi application we can go darker with out any ill effects or possibility of damage.
Mike B2MR
regular postings of fresh new topic's http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/
It is my goal to create a platform that over time will become a place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.
Spring perfect time to think Blonde
Its almost Spring. The perfect time to consider going blonde, having that sun kissed look whilst wishing for those long hot summer days.That hot holiday hair colour we long for to match that fun summer tan.
If you feel the need have the desire to brighten up your hair style with a fun new blonde look?
It doesn’t matter how dark or light your natural hair color is or if you have dark or pale skin tone, there is always a shade of blonde hair to suit you.Blonde is still the most popular hair color choice for most women! Of course if you have already coloured your hair then you will have to take this into consideration when thinking about a shade or discuss with your stylist whats possible.
Here are some fun ideas if you want to let that inner blonde out to play for a while.
If you have shoulder length hair in a brunette tone. Skip going for over-all blonde color. Instead apply some rich caramel highlights throughout your style, focusing on the crown and where the part lands. Your textured waves combined with the rich highlights will reflect the sunlight and create an eye-catching look. This will start you on the road to blonde with out over processing.
Long hair
If your long hair is damaged or dull, purchase a good color protecting shampoo and conditioner to use before, during and after you color your hair. Treating your damaged hair from roots to ends is an important factor in maintaining colored styles. For very long hair highlights are a better form of colour than an all over application and help prevent root-re growth issues,
Finding the right shade
Before you decide on a shade of blonde. Take into consideration your skin tone and eye color. Also consider your current hair color for it certainly plays a part in choices and possible out come of the new colour you are working towards
If you currently have bleached blonde hair, you may want to opt for a deeper, richer shade of blonde.This might require putting some pigment back into your hair if bleached very light. If your skin tone is very pale, you may want to keep your blonde shade a bit lighter.
Dark brunettes. A deep honey highlight throughout your style might be best, you are then working with your hairs natural pigment rather than fighting it, try to avoid bleaching as this just damages your hair.
Choose your colour carefully consider all your options. You may need to seek professional advise. Remember combining a fun new blonde hair color with a new cut can completely change the way you look and feel about yourself and the way others look and see you!
Layering colors
Applying a variety of blonde hair colors throughout your hair on various areas of layering creates a very striking and unique look. If you have a light brown base then highlights to lighten the top sections keeping your layers underneath dark this gives dimension and a great two tones look . This type of coloring looks particularly good on straight, medium-length hair with short or longer bangs.
These are just a few thoughts and ideas for those interested in creating a new blonde hair color try to do something different and new with your blonde hair this season.Blonde hair in small or large doses is a good way to update your appearance and help lift your mood!
In the fall, autumn with a demi application we can go darker with out any ill effects or possibility of damage.
Mike B2MR
Monday, 14 February 2011
That salon experience
Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR
regular postings of fresh new topic's http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/
Salon service. Client retention. Technical skills.
I have decided to share with you some of my thoughts on the hair industry for it has played such a huge part in my journey. I hope you find it interesting and that evokes both thought and questions.
It is my firm belief that in this day and age and in such competitive times the only way to increase and expand your client base is through referral and recommendation it is so important to retain both new and existing clients. This is achieved through excellence in service, communication and technical ability, Knowledge.
This can only be done through High standards of Service, communication and consultation skills. Education, team work and effective leadership by those who are training new stylists.
Service and Communication
So let’s take a look into a salon!
One of the main reason for client loss from a salon is dissatisfaction from either the service or the final result. It is a fact that 50% of clients visiting a salon for the first time do not return! Why? That's a huge loss of client's and repeat business
Taking short cuts and compromising one’s standards and professional ethics leads to client dissatisfaction.
When a client leaves a salon unhappy! How much damage can they do to your reputation?
When a client leaves happy they will recommend you to others.They will get stopped in the street. Potentially a happy client will recommend you to 5 friends who in turn have 5 friends.
You are building your business on your communication skills. creativity. knowledge.The best way to build a loyal clientele is by being. Sympathetic to a clients needs, listening, professional consultation and by giving honest advise.
Guess what an unhappy client can and will do? You got it - 5 friends will leave with them.
We have to be on top of products new techniques. We cannot only trust in what the sales rep or Manufacturer tells us.
These days we have to know and understand more than ever. The chemistry of our products the effects that they can have, how they will interact with other products.
The client who wants to switch from home colour to professional. The Client. Who has put henna on her hair buts wants to switch to professional permanent colour! Could she? Should she? or He!
Having that edge offering that bit more!
So after building up a strong client base with strong client retention. Do you ever wonder why? Every five to six weeks you have a somewhat quiet week with not a lot booked? You start to ask yourself the question? What am I doing wrong? Am I losing my touch? Well let’s see.
We have all had one of these. That crazy Saturday could be any day you fitted all those extra clients in. You were on a role and had a huge money day.
You call your boss and say. Guess what I did today. You leave work on cloud nine thinking that's it. Every day could be like this. I really feel I have made it.
Now let’s just think about this and break it down. Was it really a success?
You took short cuts. You compromised your clients who had services booked. You kept clients waiting. You rushed through things. Guess what - you lost clients.
Instead of running the show you created chaos and did not give your regular clients your full attention and service. They go else where – and yes. They go with their 5 friends.
So by having a crazy busy day it cost you. Short term gain meant long term loss. The key is service, attention to detail, and making that client feel special.
That 6 week Lull!
You will never get beyond having a 5 to 6 week lull until you look beyond the quick hit money-making day. Take care of the clients offering the highest standard of Service.
Your takings your wages will follow.
Sitting around does not look good for business nor does it inspire clients. If your not busy then get busy!
Consultation key time:
You need time for the consultation. This is your time to shine. The time that reassures your client that they are special That you are considerate and that you understand their needs and wants. Your client sees you are prepared to take that extra time to use your knowledge to make them feel comfortable and safe in a professional’s hands. It is this service that gets you talked about and recommended. It is this standard of exemplary service that leads to both client retention and recommendation . Those communication and consultation skills.
A great tool to help you improve those skills take an honest look at the way you treat your clients is this little Gem of a book soon to be available through both web site and blog site. Are you ready to take the challenge! http://www.doubleyoursalonsales.com/
Good luck strive to be the best you can. Mike B2MR
regular postings of fresh new topic's http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/
Salon service. Client retention. Technical skills.
I have decided to share with you some of my thoughts on the hair industry for it has played such a huge part in my journey. I hope you find it interesting and that evokes both thought and questions.
It is my firm belief that in this day and age and in such competitive times the only way to increase and expand your client base is through referral and recommendation it is so important to retain both new and existing clients. This is achieved through excellence in service, communication and technical ability, Knowledge.
This can only be done through High standards of Service, communication and consultation skills. Education, team work and effective leadership by those who are training new stylists.
Service and Communication
So let’s take a look into a salon!
One of the main reason for client loss from a salon is dissatisfaction from either the service or the final result. It is a fact that 50% of clients visiting a salon for the first time do not return! Why? That's a huge loss of client's and repeat business
Taking short cuts and compromising one’s standards and professional ethics leads to client dissatisfaction.
When a client leaves a salon unhappy! How much damage can they do to your reputation?
When a client leaves happy they will recommend you to others.They will get stopped in the street. Potentially a happy client will recommend you to 5 friends who in turn have 5 friends.
You are building your business on your communication skills. creativity. knowledge.The best way to build a loyal clientele is by being. Sympathetic to a clients needs, listening, professional consultation and by giving honest advise.
Guess what an unhappy client can and will do? You got it - 5 friends will leave with them.
We have to be on top of products new techniques. We cannot only trust in what the sales rep or Manufacturer tells us.
These days we have to know and understand more than ever. The chemistry of our products the effects that they can have, how they will interact with other products.
The client who wants to switch from home colour to professional. The Client. Who has put henna on her hair buts wants to switch to professional permanent colour! Could she? Should she? or He!
Having that edge offering that bit more!
So after building up a strong client base with strong client retention. Do you ever wonder why? Every five to six weeks you have a somewhat quiet week with not a lot booked? You start to ask yourself the question? What am I doing wrong? Am I losing my touch? Well let’s see.
We have all had one of these. That crazy Saturday could be any day you fitted all those extra clients in. You were on a role and had a huge money day.
You call your boss and say. Guess what I did today. You leave work on cloud nine thinking that's it. Every day could be like this. I really feel I have made it.
Now let’s just think about this and break it down. Was it really a success?
You took short cuts. You compromised your clients who had services booked. You kept clients waiting. You rushed through things. Guess what - you lost clients.
Instead of running the show you created chaos and did not give your regular clients your full attention and service. They go else where – and yes. They go with their 5 friends.
So by having a crazy busy day it cost you. Short term gain meant long term loss. The key is service, attention to detail, and making that client feel special.
That 6 week Lull!
You will never get beyond having a 5 to 6 week lull until you look beyond the quick hit money-making day. Take care of the clients offering the highest standard of Service.
Your takings your wages will follow.
Sitting around does not look good for business nor does it inspire clients. If your not busy then get busy!
Consultation key time:
You need time for the consultation. This is your time to shine. The time that reassures your client that they are special That you are considerate and that you understand their needs and wants. Your client sees you are prepared to take that extra time to use your knowledge to make them feel comfortable and safe in a professional’s hands. It is this service that gets you talked about and recommended. It is this standard of exemplary service that leads to both client retention and recommendation . Those communication and consultation skills.
A great tool to help you improve those skills take an honest look at the way you treat your clients is this little Gem of a book soon to be available through both web site and blog site. Are you ready to take the challenge! http://www.doubleyoursalonsales.com/
Good luck strive to be the best you can. Mike B2MR
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