Wednesday, 29 June 2011

The hair salon. Up selling or sound advise

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic's

How many Salon owners managers and stylist's struggle with the concept of up selling to a client. So many fear the 'S' word sales. Be it the recommendation of take home hair care products or the suggestion of chemical service.Why is this an issue? A client comes to us for change.They come to us either recommended or as a returning client.This shows trust. So is it not our obligation to suggest services that we feel will improve the look and style.
Is it not the case that. We are not offering that full service if we don't offer. Advise on other services available and options to improve both look and style and self esteem.
The thing to consider and the way to look at things is it's not selling. It's sharing with your client options and possibilities. If  you are doing it from a place of caring and sharing .That place that has your clients best interest at heart it's not heavy selling it called' Service' If you genuinely think this will improve your clients look and style and so how they feel about themselves job done.
How do you time and introduce this suggested change without your client feeling obligated or without creating that uncomfortable unease caused by the suggestion. Simple yes Simple! Do you know how?
Its called a.                                                             'Consultation' 
Maybe by looking at the consultation process we can get past any fears around the sales pitch.

what should this experience for our client be this person who we want to build a relationship with this person the we hope will recommend us and the salon for the service and skill we provide and offer.

The Service the consultation: The keys to success.
From the moment a client enters into a salon the experience begins those first impressions the look the feel of the place the atmosphere.
That first greeting. That welcome normally carried out by receptionist or a salon staff member who job is to meet and greet. This is a hugely important role if given this role. Don't turn it down it's a way to hone your people skills.
With new clients some salon will have a questionnaire. This is great for both stylist and client it show the salon cares it puts the client at ease whilst waiting for her appointment maybe whilst having a coffee or tea.
From a stylist point of view it gives us back ground information so we can ask the right questions during our consultation. Without information how can we give sound advise. this opens the door for us to see past history of hair services and the possibility of offering new service. 
Once this has been filled out as a stylist I think it's important to come a meet your client introduce your self to the client you should already know your clients name this should be on your personal day agenda sheet. if this is not the case in your salon introduce it! 'Now'
[Yes a list of clients for the day the service they are hoping for and whether they are new or return or recommend clients]  Because with out having a consultation all the facts how can we decide what is possible !! we cannot.
Trust me when I say this.  I have seen many stylist work out their days take {£ $ } before the day starts. 
I have worked with one stylist. Who would get into work look at the day sheet and get all the tubes of colour out for that day putting them aside.  god help any one who touched this colour I made a point of using it !!! well no ones perfect ! How could you possible know what a client wants in advance of them coming in? much less taking the time to talk with them. How boring ! well this stylist was really very boring. Personality of a  dead nat !!!
So back to the plot 
First impression count how you look and present your self says who you are its all about the image you project your dress hair makeup! That look that says this is me! what can I do for you?
We have introduced our self. Escort our client though to our work station. This area is represents who you are. How you work. Untidy dirty chaos does not work!
With the clip board on your lap sit next to your client. Remember  eye level. eye contact. Remember you have some information to hand so use it.
Not! what are we doing today ! 'How about'
I see from the information you have kindly filled you you had a hair cut 6 weeks ago. How has that been working out for you. How manageable have you found it as it's grown out. That leads into what brings you here today how can I help all leading open ended questions.
This now leaves the door open for easy conversation you have relaxed your client you are starting to build trust.
Personal routine, products used, if chemical service has been carried out on the hair even if not being re done on this occasion it still needs to be touched on for future booking and for advice and comment
Never ever! Put a colour chart on a clients lap and say. What colour do you want today! It's your job our job as professionals to advise on colour that can work and look stunning. 
This is the up sell without the hard sell!
Having established History and indeed wish list we can move on the recommendations.
Style . Look . Length . Colour . Products styling tips maintenance. Be honest  at all times. I like to refer to a relationship as taking a journey together that with patients honesty open the doors to endless possibilities.
There is such a difference between a quick pre shampoo chat and a real genuine caring consultation? 
Of course there will always be slight differences in the process and peoples expectation and what they demand .That is why we chose to be in the service industry. The question being are you are you ready for the challenge to make some changes to how you do your consultation advise your client? To seek out some help advise and guidance if required. Do you want to gain the skills to really succeed and reach new levels of success.
In closing having a fully booked day is what most stylist long for strive for. Consistently busy. But consider this. When fully booked or over booked we lose clients ! Why however good we are the standard of service drops.
 Your fault no one else to blame ! You took short cuts kept clients waiting. You sacrificed your standards for a few extra £££ or $$$$.
Do this and you do more damage a dissatisfied  client will go else where taking her friends with her! it's Service, reliability, Service consultation, Service, skill oh and More Service!!!.
It's all about Balancing your day so you have the time to suggest and offer these new services. work with your team mates. Colour technician space your appointments so you have time to offer and perform new services. Don't worry or think about the £££££ or $$$$$ this will follow concentrate on the job in hand your client and the service you offer.

The up sell is not an up sell it's offering your professional skill and knowledge to your clients to enhance and improve their look! That's what they come to you for!   Having suggested change if they don't fancy it . no big deal make a note on file discussed with client . Maybe they want time to think about it you have planted a seed for next time! hence the note's.
Product sales home after care. How can it not be right to suggest the products required to maintain both condition and a look? How can it not be right to suggest product that will help keep a colour from fading? Think of it as a prescription for healthy hair .maybe even go so far as to write down what they need and require!

We are in the service industry sales through education and skill is not direct selling it's part of the service it 's part of what we do. 
Practice all of the above and watch. Your sales improve. Your client base grow your client retention be solid. Your wage packet ! Well that's in your hands   

Tuesday, 28 June 2011

Blonde hIghlights techniques:

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience

As the art of hair colouring is a passion to me. As it is with so many hair colour technician's. True professionals know that. Having both the technical and practical skills are key to being successful.
I would like to try and cover some points that relate to high lighting, with the various products available to us!
It seems as I monitor key search words that the most searched topic's that come up are always relating to issues around blonde hair highlights bleach and tone.The other key search being searches on all topic's related to the colour wheel the law's of colour controlling pigment shade and tone.
So hope that although a topic written on many times this is of help and pushes some buttons regarding process and techniques.

In am fortunate that I get to meet so many salons and so to meet some very talent stylist and colour technicians. I like to watch techniques hang out with technician chatting about techniques and products. Always trying to discover a stylist's favourite. what is the current chosen product. Many use foils some use easy mesh. I use a waxed paper that does not need to be folded and will not allow bleeding as much as some other products might during the process time and as the product expands. A thing that can happen with foil easy mesh or many of the products available to us, especially if to much product applied and or if heat is introduced.

One of the biggest thing I observe with highlight is the neatness of sections the folding of the foils the care taken attention to detail. Those being foil placement formulation application. The patients of many really good colourist is to be admired. But we also have to consider the evenness of the weave desired thick fine ect. The cleanness of section.The application of product.oh and formulation.

We have to remember that when taking section we are not working on a flat surface it's curved so we have to structure out sectioning pattern to accommodate this plain.
However there are always the slack untidy get them in get them out jobs to! consider all the curves as indicated below.

Lets take some time to reflect and review on sectioning and placement :

My question is on sectioning it's hard to write about i wish i had a way to draw on screen any way here goes.
I have in past blogs articles made reference to not being able to cut  a straight line on a curved surface the same is so of highlighting sections!
when we work up the side of the head in nice neat sections we are working on a curve! so it follows if we pull the foil in tight to the section  the middle will be right into the root leaving distance from root at either end! if we pull one end in the other will move out ! its the curve.
The same can be said for working a T section if we start at the hair line and work toward the crown we are working on another curve so the same applies. as we pull the foil in as close as possible only a small part will pull right in a space will be at each end.
The below although for cutting indicates well the sections and angles discussed.

How do we get round this? By working in sections from the hairline in always sectioning to create a flat plain and by brick laying sections staggering them if you do this you will always get to the roots.
take time think about that curve adjust your sections it will make the work of difference to you!

Look at those roots that re-growth consider formulation how you are going to run your colour to deal with root issue. Try not to over lap any bleach! decide on your weave pattern. Discuss with your client the look .Highlights thick streaks fine weave high light and low lights final goal!

How do your Highlights stack up ! maybe you should take a little more time with placement sectioning foil placement!
I speak from experience I used to book highlights back to back i could weave full head in just over half an hour.  Would I do this now 'No' it's not the way to work to do things or get the best results.

Of course still consider re growth application colour balance and formulation but take the time to work on those sections it all about angles as you understand these  section you find you will naturally start to apply them to cutting sections as well it will give you over time greater understanding of shape and weight distribution.
If you are interested in the waxed high light papers here is some contact information for you.

Also a useful link for the papers:

                                          Hope these tip helps to some degree.   Mike B2MR

Blonde hair colouring and Highlights:

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR.  Regular postings of fresh new topic's

                              Badly done Blonde hair: WHY?

Why is it that with so many wonderfully talented stylist's. So many Salons'. So many products both for professional use and indeed the much promoted over the counter wonder hair colours. The question is. Why is there much poorly done over processed badly coloured Blonde hair wondering our streets? What is going on? What is going wrong? Is it our our client are to accepting of looks and standards? I we dropped our standards? Or is bad hair the acceptable norm?
I look around me when out in public and see so many cases of over processed hair. Really badly done highlights and streaks. An example of this can come in many forms but none are a pretty sight ! They certainly do nothing as a walking advertisement for either our industry or any given salon and or stylist.

When things go wrong hot bright roots not left down full hair shaft.

Streaks and Highlights that look bright at the roots but fade away in the mid lengths and ends. Streaks highlights and  lowlights that have been done by bleach pre lightening and then colour deposited on top to create pigment and tone, leaving bright yellow blonde roots and faded flat colour on the rest of the hair shaft caused by. Over processing. Over lifting. lack of porosity in the hair. What was going through the head of a stylist who they attempts to take previously coloured dark hair lighter resulting in Yellow Blonde roots and dark ends!
In so many cases this colour fades away oh so quickly why? because of over processing lack condition so the hair lacks natural moisture. 
Patchy streaks dull blonde. Caused by using wrong shade as a toner. An example of this yellow blonde lift from bleach decolourizer. Then selecting ash as toner a misconception that ash is the correct shade yellow and blue make for a green hue! Violet would be a correct choice.
Of corse not all of this is caused by stylist's in the salon.A considerable amount is home done But none should come from the salon.

Over processed Blonde out of condition no tone.
All hair colouring is addressing issues around colour balancing replacing pigments that the hair is lacking. As we have covered in previous articles  everything stems from the three primary colours that make up hair's natural colour.Our primary colours. Red, Blue, Yellow. We then have secondary colour and so on using ones colour wheel is key to correct colour balancing toning and correction a re-balancing or replacing missing pigments.
These two shots above and below show that with knowledge patients and skill anything is possible.In this instance we are managed to create a Blonde healthy tone with texture and dimension.
It's creating a blonde utilising what we had to start with. By adding shade and tone.

colour corrected with highlights and low lights.

When colouring hair. Having the knowledge and an understanding of the process lift, deposit, neutralizing and utilizing underlying pigment. The chemistry the pigments you have exposed through the lifting process. For lets face it colouring is all about lift and deposit not just choose a colour and put in on any given head.
Most Colour brands will lift a maximum of 4 levels so if you are lifting from a level 6 to 10 you will not get to the target colour with 40 volume peroxide and your colour will always be to gold or yellow! Why? underlying pigment.

When considering the above lift from level 6 to 10 think about where 6 lives on a colour wheel then think about level 10 then consider all the under pigment you will expose as you lift through these levels this will help you decide if your Target is possible.
As soon as you lift level 6 one level you expose red orange, then orange then yellow orange then yellow and last of all pale yellow so four levels of lift will leave you with a yellow base.
So if your trying for a natural blonde it will be to yellow so toning what do we choose? Ash ? Violet? Beige? It's all about the balance of tone corrective Toner and always Condition.

Condition and Tone both key.

Lets go back to level 6 to 10 using 40 volume peroxide. This degree of lift is not possible! Why? Because you have to lift through level 6 then 7,8,9 this is your four level so 10 is not attainable with permanent colour unless you pre-lighten with Bleach decolourizer. Or are skilled enough to know how to manipulate both colour and pigment in formulations? Yes there are ways  I could share with you but hard to just write down warrants explanation. Let me know if your interested.
This process warrants some time so you don't end up with bright over lifted roots!
Before we embark on this we have to consider the head we are working on is it pre-coloured? can we lift out that colour? again what pigment will we expose? what condition is the hair in how porous is it? will it hold colour? strand test it  when wet will it stretch? does it float or sink in water? if it does not float it's over processed and will not hold colour strongly recommend not to pre lighten this hair.
Consultation. Look. Touch. Question. But remember that most people tend to be rather dishonest about their colour history weather it be home exploration or professional also some hair dresser tell clients that colours are semi permanent even when they do both lift and deposit! why because they don't take the time to understand the chemistry of the product they are   using also many of the companies miss lead stylist in the way their colours work!
blonde high lights low lights
Herbal. Ammonia free. Organic. Natural. No lift, No peroxide. ask, ask, ask, then ask again!!  Then ask How can this be ? What no Alkaline! Maybe it's hidden disguised.  Get all the information you can. Be the best you can. Understand the chemistry of the colour and the the pigment available to you in any given shade.
Will the Natural series have enough pigment to hold a natural level when using 20 volume peroxide? Or will it be to warm ? Questions you have to ask your self and consider. What it really attainable with regard to tone and look.

Good luck Mike B2MR
Want more colour information  contact me we can chat. about your colour issues and requirements.

Sunday, 26 June 2011

Embracing Grey hair issues.

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic's

Grey Hair:
That age old issue! The one topic that is talked about by men and women as this nasty stuff starts to appear. Yes it can happen at any age to any one.Yet society tries to dictate via Media and social barriers that it's unsightly ageing and must Go.
As a hair stylist with many years experience I promote that whilst it can be dealt with it should be embraced .For it's not going away.We should learn to work with it disguise it and not just try and constantly colour and over process the life out of it!  Odd coming from a stylist with a back ground in hair colour and colour education.

Is it really that bad?. To have a little Grey?
Why does society and the media make it such a big deal of it ? Because it's huge business! Just think about all thoseTv and marketing ads.
Should we- can we embrace our Grey hair and still look stylist and feel young at heart? I think yes?

So what is it? Why is it that our hair goes Grey? { husbands, Wives, Kids, work, life?}

Why is going Grey so random? Why are some people lucky enough too, bypass the Grey stage altogether?

Around our late fifties natural hair colour fades. As the body’s production of melanin decreases.When melanin production slows down we start to go Grey. When this production stops. The hair that grows in is white silver lacking pigment. The production of melanin is governed by genetic factors. So for the best indication, of when someone’s hair will become white, look to the parents, grand parents. How Grey are they? As this change happens so the texture can change.
It is not a given that it will be just Grey or white sadly as lack of melanin products starts we can go through a stage of salt pepper flat dull lack lister hair. So much to look forward to ha! Also depending on when the process starts ie what age the skin can also seem to change. We folks it called ageing. We can do it with grace and dignity.

Once the hair has gone Grey. Do you decide to take that leap into the world of colour? It’s important to find a colourist that will listen to your issues.Who understands both the technical issues, as well as the physiological ones. This ideally will be some one who can suggest options, a person who can explain alternatives.

Working with the right stylist or colour technician is essential, anyone suggesting camouflage may be well worth listening too.This would suggest working with the Grey. However someone suggesting, grabbing the lightest blonde or deepest brunette. This may not be the best person to work with.
Trying to attain a very light blonde.This can often results in a very harsh yellow undertone being presented. Grey hair still has pigment, In many cases stylist can make the mistake of, using to higher volume of Peroxide. The result of this can be, the introduction of unwanted pigment. It is this over exposure that will present either, unwanted warmth or a yellow undertone.

It is possible to maintain that warm copper shade that you have always loved,that works with your skin tone,complements your eye colour. The art is to introduce some shades to break up the solid so that 4 weekly roots is not an issue.So condition can be maintained. The above is a mix of soft high lights and low lights above shot all same model.

Temporary colours.
These can also be very useful, if you've decided to let nature take its course - but still need a little help.They can, take the yellowish cast out of. White and Grey and increase a more natural look to that salt-and-pepper hair. The advantage in this choice is, no lifting of the hair, so no unwanted warmth from pigment undertones being exposed.

As we get older. It is advisable to Go lighter as it's softer against your skin tone. Sometimes a few high and low-lights are all that’s needed. They can introduce colour and texture to the hair. Whilst working with the Grey and natural tones. They can achieve this without. Totally masking natural tones out completely. This process is less harsh than all over colour, It will allow hair to grow out with less re-growth.

There’s no disputing that. The younger generation can pull off almost any look.

Not always the case with the older clients. It takes some attention to detail to get a style that’s graceful, elegant and sophisticated. Avoid very warm reds, plums and coppers. These tones can be very harsh and brash against older skin tones, they don't tend to cover Grey very well. This is mainly due to lack of natural pigmentation.  {copper can look orange, Plum Pink or mauve}

It's often assumed. Warmer colours are softer as we get older, but this is a myth. More neutral base tones look, more elegant and sophisticated. You can add warmth to the look, with highlights and low-lights after the base has been achieved. One could also disperse, highlights or low lights, working without an all over base colour. The advantage of this is less processing.

Some tips for dealing with Grey Hair.

When you do notice, the odd stray Grey hairs poking their way through, don’t automatically go for, a full-head permanent tint. Often a semi-permanent colour will be sufficient. Failing this, camouflage with a few highlights or low-lights.
At this stage we want to work with the Grey.
Use the lowest chemistry possible, as much as possible,work with what you have,  embrace it. A good stylist or technician should advise a client to. Opt for multi-tonal colour, It looks more natural, the re-growth is less likely to show after a couple of weeks.

Avoid high fashion hair colouring techniques, mutton dressed as lamb, not a good look for any one! Who wants to look cheap. A more glamorous technique is far more attractive – think about the image you want to project. A gorgeous hair colour can look amazing on older woman.The wrong colour or technique can look dreadful.
As stylists we have many things to consider, when dealing with issue of Grey hair. The options available to us are many. The techniques. The formulations. The products. But in the end, it's the consultation and advise we give that is so important. Take the time to listen.

The most important tools we have are. Education. Training. Knowledge. It's these skills that enable us to, make an informed decision to advise as to what might be, The best way to proceed.

The choices could be. Permanent colour. Semi or Demi permanent. Highlights or low lights. You must be able to explain options.

From a clients point of view. There is so much hype on the Tv, the choices are endless. What colour should it be It's a really minefield of. Products and Shades, all claiming that  their home colours can. Change your life. Make you look and feel younger.

That quick fix colour. Especially those 10 minute colours, they can contain more pigment than peroxide, so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit, In some cases going black, they also have a tendency to fade really quickly.

I have found. Blogging is great way to meet and make contacts and net work.
I have recently been, Swapping thoughts and idea's with other professional hairdresser and consultant whilst discussing Grey issues, we shared these thoughts.


The whole Grey issue can be a real pain, I get image consultants saying.

 "If you go Grey you should allow the Grey to show through if you are cool toned"

and I have to explain that most people don't get an even blanket of Grey

they have the most horrible patches of it.

Then every hairdresser under the sun seems to use 20 volume to cover Grey

and if they are dark haired it kicks up tons of warmth i try and explain another

approach and way to cover Grey is with 10 volume as it deposits colour into

the white hair but doesn't lift the non white hair - but they seem to think you

are mad when you suggest this.

Formulation For professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.           

Pre-pigment. Sometimes called softener. Having established the natural level of the hair, select a neutral shade. Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes.

After 10 minutes. Mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide. I suggest the lowest volume possible. Apply directly over pre-fill.

Points to Consider. Rule of thumb when mixing a formulation for Grey hair. The formulation should contain as much of, The neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this}  40% Grey 40% N series at desired level.

If you really have to use. High volume of peroxide, you should adjust your formulation to. Deliver more pigment to control. Those being. The warm undertone you are going to expose, instead of standard formulation.
Mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide. { normal formulation 1part colour to 11/2 developer}

If your working with a client who. Has a history of using over the counter colour. Then establish what the product being used was, If possible ask them to bring the package in with them.

In all case a stand test is strongly advised. Some of the colour's now days have an oil and silicone base. this can build up in the hair may effect deposit. So in closing consider, all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.

A little knowledge is dangerous. Total knowledge is power! great products help!

Have a consultation. Get professional advise before making a decision, be well informed. Do not trust what the box says if doing home colour. Get informed have a  professional consultation.

As a stylist. Think about all the issues, advise giving all the options, Including what it will take to maintain this colour, advising on home use retail products.

Thank Mike B2MR


Comment by Karen Lynch.

Thank you! Every hairdresser should read this! I've been hairdressing about a hundred years (lol) and I am amazed (now I am a client), how many times my tint is not correct. Too warm or transparent. Most hairdressers would say this is basic stuff and that they know it. But I challenge that they don't ... Readers, send this on to others to read! :-)

Thursday, 23 June 2011

Bleaching and lifting.Toning

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR.  Regular postings of fresh new topic's

Bleaching Lifting and Toning:
I post many topic's on various aspects of our industry. Hair colouring. The process. The techniques.The skill.The knowledge.
All of these skills come together to enable us to carry out many different processes and applications on our clients who trust us to be both skilled and professional.

Bleaching and toning hair is a subject I have covered in the past but it seem's to get researched for information constantly as stylist's and client's look for information on the subject
Full head bleaching or High lighting are a process that requires lifting or lightening the hair to a point of removing enough of the hair's natural pigment. To then create a natural looking shade of blonde. So how do we achieve this?
For a more in depth look at on scalp bleaching and lift follow link to previous posting below:

As always it starts with a consultation with you client or as a client with your stylist. This is key especially with bleaching. Past history. Condition. Goal. Expectation.
At this time it should be decided if the hair is in a condition that is ok for this process.
Be it just a root application or new look. If a root application then the key is not to over lap the product onto hair that has already been processed. If in any doubt  do a strand test.
other tests you can do to see if the hair can withstand bleaching.
1/ When wet does it stretch eventually breaking?
2/ Drop a strand test into a glass of water Healthy hair will float. over processed will sink. If this is the case. chances are it over processed and damaged. It will not hold colour much less toner.
Before proceeding a regime of conditioning will be required.Try to get the hair to float in that glass.

For more information see link to past blog topic's.

The main reason for this topic is to address toning.  Having lifted the roots to blend be it with previous coloured full head or addressing high lights that are growing out.
We now have to look at the degree of lift and the shade that needs to be toned. At this point understanding the colour wheel is key as is using the correct formulation.
In so many cases the things that can go wrong with toning are. Bad choice of toner. Bad formulation.
Bleached  /decolourised. Lifted hair is by nature very porous and will take any application of toner readily and quickly so once applied stay with it as it works it's magic.
I class Toning as early stage colour correction it's an art.

What we are talking about here is. Lift and deposit:
For example. Lets use a natural level 6 this is classed as Dark blonde/mouse. It is a perfect level to work from to introduce natural looking Blonde shade and tone.
There  are many different types of pigment  available to us. From pre mixed tubes of concentrated pigment these might be. Ash . Violet. Amethyst depending on the tone you require.
Normally they will have a shampoo like base and are worked into the hair after the bleach has been washed or rinsed out and prior to conditioning.
Another option. Professional colour pigment tubes some have the ability to allow us to change their chemistry. They deposit pigment with any lift.  Understand your product how they work as well as having a clear goal. Read all instructions carefully.

As you can see with the above chart level six sits within the middle section of the chart. To get to a level of lift to be able to tone. We have to lift four shades into the area of pigment exposed around level 9.
This can be reached with a bleach de-colouriser or it may be possible with a high lift tint using 40 vol developer.
For the sake of this topic we are looking at. We are using an example of bleach being used.
Some may say level 6 to 9 is only three levels but that is misdirection for we have to lift through level 6 to get to level 9! In real terms we are looking at 4 levels max depending on the pigment base you want to work with. ie How much yellow you want to work with to create your shade and tone.

               For levels of lift the above chart will show levels and timing from said developers:

Once we have reached a target of lifted shade to a nice even base pale yellow would be desired for a nice blonde. Anything from a very light Orange hue to very pale yellow will give an acceptable level of lift and pigment for toning Blonde.

This chart above Shows.  Both undertone exposed through the lifting process and then the pigment required to tone to a natural shade at the level lifted to.
Note you will be working at levels 8 to 10 anything darker that this will be more like low lights caramel or burnt honey tones. Because you will still have an orange hue. Darker than level 8/7 and down. It should be noted that really shades darker than level 7 are not really classed as blonde.

This I think is where mistakes are made. Considering the level of lift choosing the desired pigment required to tone. To often Ash toner is reached for. When you can see from the chart Ash really will only work for pigments that are of an Orange hue. Ash pigment used as a toner on. Yellow will create a Green hue! Why? Well what does yellow and Blue make ! da Green
Think about our primary colours the secondary shades then think it's all about balance adding back what we have removed,But at the level we have exposed or are working in.
Guess what it's back to know understanding trusting the colour wheel and the law of colour.

A small very basic colour wheel but easy to understand Opposites neutralise so yellow requires Violet!

Nice healthy natural shades of blonde lifted and then tones for dimension.

Healthy good condition long blonde hair is possible. It takes time patients client and stylist working together.
Finally bleached and toned full head colour all is possible . Use the right products understand these products. choose the correct formulation and timing.Think the process through!
Thanks Mike B2MR

Hairdressing success-It's in your hands

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic's.
Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience. A place to share thoughts post comments and idea's.
As a stylist we strive to become a success to be fully booked to get new recommendation to earn a great salary to be the best we can. But sadly in so many cases somewhere along the way. This changes or never happens why?  what went wrong?  Why do some get 
disillusioned and get resentful.Why do some quit the industry! Why do some. Get by but are full of anger and resentment Why? Time to be honest! It's time to seek some help? Get re focused and remember why you started on this journey of self discovery looking for creative success.
If this is you!
It's time for some honest reflection to ask your self some soul searching questions starting with the big one Why? Did you become a stylist? Followed by. Do you enjoy being a stylist? what do you want from being a stylist?
What were the goals? What were the aspirations that brought you into this industry? What are you prepared to do to reach your goals and dreams!
There are so many avenues to explore so many skills to gain. There is so much to give and yet so much to gain. Yes you have to give things away to get them back it's the way of the universe.
But all of this comes at a cost nothing in life is easy or free it takes hard work commitment!
It takes constant training and updates of all the skills we have. All that we know and all we have yet to learn try and discover.
These are challenging times for everyone.Those challenges and demands being day to day running and managing of the salon and staff team members. As stylists working in a salon being part of the team we should be involved in the salons success.
How can we do this? By being and staying positive and upbeat. With so much global uncertainty so much negativity in the new's Think and be positive and up beat both in your out look and in what you project. I have little time for negative attitude or thinking it's destructive on so many levels both in personal and  work life.
These skills cover every aspect of our industry. From those key things that are at the very heart of our  daily routine and business success . Service skills. Communication .Consultation.
We need to use all the tools that are available to us.The ones that motivate us. Ones that are written specific to the issues around our industry by passionate professionals who have so much to share and offer to us. One helpful read is the book below written by Karen Lynch it's very insightful on so many aspect of owning and running a salon and motivating staff.  She is a driven motivated passionate industry professional.
In this book 
Karen takes you along on a journey of discovery and challenges. Two stylist discovering the challenges the emotion roller coaster of success
It's is very much hoped this will soon be on sale here in the Uk but you can order via the web link.
Having read the book and watched the educational DVD's and as some one who has nothing to gain from this recommendation apart from sharing it as a tool that I think very inspiring written by someone with a solid background and so an understanding of the issues we all come across daily in the salon as either an owner manager or stylist.
We have so many tools available to us to research and study our craft.The Internet the world wide web books. These are really good for learning about service and consultation skills after all Service and clients are our business. We must not forget the other aspects of our trade  the practical hands on creative side this need to be fed and stimulated sharing idea's with team mates work colleges.
We must also make sure we are up to date with product knowledge and technical knowledge.
Just being a busy salon stylist can and will get to be quite routine if you don't push and challenge your self. It is very easy to get complacent take what we do and indeed out clients and the very fact of being busy as a given ! not always the case.
Real success is to challenge your self and continually grow. Fear can hold us back as stepping out side ones comfort zone pushing the envelope is not a comfortable place to be for many of us.
Get involved in the salon training nights . Maybe become a platform artist or educator. for major colour company. consider entering some competitions, photographic work .These can be good for both individual stylist and  the whole salon it moral and image.
Remember that the more you give out through sharing skills and experience the more that will come back to you.
This career is for you to manage and steer. It's a journey and adventure you have no idea of what opportunities lie ahead for you. All yours to grasp all you have to do is aim high and challenge your self and those around you.
Dont settle for second best. Have high standards. Stay up beat focused. Constantly challenge your self and those around you.
If the above is you if you want to move forward step up the ladder to success then lets connect for an informal chat maybe we can move forward together. Learning and sharing experience.
All contact information is on my web site I very much look forward to hearing from you