Monday, 31 October 2011

Hairdressing Standards In the salon outside the salon

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

                                                              Some thoughts on Standards

Hairdressing standards are they so different. Whether you are in the salon or out side the salon. The standards we live bye, what is acceptable to us is a very personal thing and yet these standards have a knock on effect both in your hair career and life in general.

Are these standards that are taught to us? If so is some one else responsible 'CAN WE LAY BLAME' some where else. ! No.
Yes whilst we are training standards of qualification are set and level's have to be reached. A certified level of achievement reached be it from a College. Academy. Apprenticeship.  Having attained the certification this recognised standard then what?  Do you sit back thinking thats' it i'm qualified or do you carry on training and learning .Thus raising your standard. Or over time do you lapse into taking short cuts, not staying current and so lowering or allowing your standards to drop?



This scenario can happen so easily as you allow your standards to drop so it will reflect in the work you produce. This will lead to loss of client's, this will lead to resentment at work, Loss of earnings so loss of self esteem. You may then start to not take care of your appearance start coming into work late. Resenting those around who have 'Higher Standards'. This can happen so easily. Avery dangerous road to go down and not  a journey i would recommend.

We are all responsible for. Who we are. What we do. The standards that are acceptable to us the choices we make. The consequences we then have to live with. We cannot blame other's for poor choices made
nor can we let or allow negativity to take over this can be so disruptive that and unhealthy' Ego'. or self will run riot!


       Be it the work we produce the way we act and project ourselves aim high to be the best you can!

The same chain of events can happen in the salon if the owner or manager is not fully focused and leading by example.
I say leading and not managing a wise friend quoted'A manager has staff, a leader has followers' [thanks Karen] . 
To lead by example is to show the way for other like minded team members to follow. This way you grow together you set and raise the standard together thus supporting each other moving forward in a direction together. Allowing standards to drop getting complacent in the salon, not having education up dates and training for 'ALL'  staying current keeping up appearances.  Not maintaining a professional team can lead to staff team member dissatisfaction and so business disruption or breakdown.
The key here comes back to Image. Communication.Vision. Goals and yes Standards.

We have so many tools to help and assist us now from the ground up mentor's tutors at college. In the work place the doors of communication should always be open and swing both ways.
Then we have professional help. This we can seek out on line so easily discussion groups. Industry support groups such as HABIA here in the Uk. If in college you head of dept. It's ok for any of us to ask for help and advise.

Professionals willing to share there experience and knowledge committed to raising yes Industry standards.
In Australia if your reading this contact Karen at http://www.karendavidintl.com/
In the United states Kathy.                                   http://www.kathyjager.com/
HABIA uk                                                           http://www.habia.org/
Here in the Uk Mike.                                           http://back2myroots.co.uk/

You see so many ways for us all to raise standards both for ourselves and those around us. We all without exception need to be honest with our selves about our standards of what is acceptable to us both in the work lace an din our lives for the two are so connected.
Mike B2MR

Thursday, 27 October 2011

Home use. Hair straightening Kits

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR




We just about finish posting warnings and exhausted the discussion on some of the professional keratin based hair relaxing products and how important it is to research that they are safe. formaldehyde free.
We have had ammonia free foaming hair colour. We have had  ammonia free all natural heathy hair colour for home use and application now we have.

I see this advertised
Charles Worthington Salon at Home Straight and Smooth hair straightening kit for non coloured hair.
Charles Worthington Straight & Smooth hair straightening kit, get the ultra-glamorous results of a professional salon straightening treatment from the comfort of your home.


Above is the add  So i thought lets read the instructions lets see what's in this product. below is what i could find

Get gorgeously straight, smooth and more manageable hair with natural bounce for up to 40 days from Charles Worthington Salon at Home Straight and; Smooth hair straightening kit. Completely safe and easy to apply in just 25 minutes, this patent-pending breakthrough treatment uses Cystamine, a gentle and effective straightening active that re-programmes your hair memory and tames frizz. It’s 100% free from formaldehyde and ammonia. Get the ultra-glamorous results of a professional salon straightening treatment, all from the comfort of your home.
The experts at Charles Worthington have developed Straight & Smooth to help keep your hair straighter for longer. Working closely in collaboration with world-renowned hair expert, Professor Wortmann at Manchester University, the product has been over two years in production to ensure the best results for your hair.
This breakthrough straightening treatment uses cystamine, a gentle and effective straightening active. Cystamine works by re-programming your hair memory so your hair will stay straighter and not want to frizz, even in humid conditions. Our patent - pending technology is blended with proteins and argan oil to leave your hair looking smoother and healthier for longer.
Straight & Smooth is 100% ammonia and formaldehyde free meaning the product is safe to use and gentle on your hair.
85% of women who trialled Charles Worthington Salon at Home, Straight & Smooth agreed it effectively straightened their hair for up to 6 weeks.

As you can read from the above although it eludes to no Ammonia no formaldehyde it does not tell us what's in it. How it opens the cuticle how it relaxes the hair my guess either Grain alcohol derived Alkaline mixed as  a cream to weigh the hair down keeping it straight in the 20 minute process time it does require neutralising [just like a perm] it's really a acid perm in reverse not rollers!
I read some reviews not that good sounds rather smelly!
Cystine is what we have in our hair to create curl. We relax the cystine one of the hairs 19 amino acids to make it straight!!! 
It might last 6 to 8 weeks that does not mean re do every 6 to 8 weeks !!!!! 
It sadden's me when well respected professional celebrity stylist have to endorse theses none professional products.So much for years in the industry and being a professional. It's all about the ££££ or $$$$$.

To carry out this procedure one has to put the hair into an alkaline state open the cuticle. We do that with various strengths of Ammonia or with MEA or an alkaline derived from grain fermentation this allows it to be called natural!
Be aware that issues can arise if doing a process like this possible breakage do not do it on pre coloured or bleached hair  any doubts seek professional advise. 

I really have the greatest respect for so many of our celebrity stylist they mentor so many. They are looked up to by young aspiring stylists who look to them as professionals these sort of products cheapen that image. Always research any product read reviews before applying it to your hair!
Mike B2MR    

Friday, 21 October 2011

Make over colour correction

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR


                            What is the hardest challenge in a hair colour make cut make over?
Firstly and foremost it has to be a situation with really challenging colour correction.
This leads nicely on to the hardest form of colour correction. What might that be? Over processed Mud coloured hair.
This situation is normally created when hair has been over coloured then in an attempt to fix it goes wrong.It is cause when all the shades neutralise each other out creating a muddy dull life less colour and really poor condition. This type of situation happens a great deal and can be very challenging to correct

Below we have a model with one such issue. She was blonde home coloured kit,Went to salon for help to take it back to a solid more natural colour with a view to getting it back in to condition and then over time have it looked after professionally.
Result the Salon took on the job they had no idea how to rebuild a pigment base in the hair  the result speaks for it self. Frankly when I saw this I was appalled that a salon could do this and charge for it. Not to mention let the client leave in such a nasty state.



The Fix:
After much consultation honest discussion it was agreed that a great deal of the really damaged hair had to come off.The model agreed that any colour that would look healthy and work with her skin tone and eye colour would work  as a starting point to hair recovery.
My challenge was what colour could i get this too!!!
Firstly I had to remove the muddy shade without over processing the hair more. A bleach cocktail worked into the hair a mixture of.


If making up a cocktail to lift old shades out try.
*1/2 oz Clarifying shampoo.
*1oz      Water.
*1oz       20 vol peroxide {or cream developer}
*1 oz      powder bleach.
Apply to clean towel dried hair, work through on area needing lift for 5 to 10 mins. watching all the time wash out rinse thoroughly.
Once this has been done and desired level of lift has been achieved we now have a canvas to work on and from.
It was decided that allowing for some fading and possible future change in direction of colour. That a warm or red tone would be a great way forward. Warmer tones will always give you a better base than cool or ash tones they will also allow you more flexibility to change and switch direction.  
It is also my feeling that when re building a pigment base on does not have to nor should use permanent colour formulation [why put more peroxide on over processed hair?] Demi formulation are all you need along with some patients as you build up the required pigment mantle.
  
 It amy seem like it is a slow process but applying different layers of colour over each other in the long term will give you much better colour retention.
Above is the result we managed to achieve and the look was created using a razor to give a soft shattered bob with lots movement and texture.
The result healthy looking hair a happy client who over the following months grew her hair out to being long and blonde with highlights and low lights. It took time and patients communication consultation .That is what we do in our profession service skill honesty always be professional.
  

Sunday, 16 October 2011

Hair Make over. Cut colour

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

Whist on the topic of make overs thought maybe we should look at a Cut and colour . A case of some one needing wanting asking to help.
Correction to some degree and a new look taking onto account condition colour wanted and long term goal all of this was established in the consultation prior to the chemical service.


This above model as you can see has very over processed all one colour hair. In-fact i would describe this as really no colour Just lots of damaging lift exposing any pigment left in the hair.
 But so damaged that it cannot hold any pigment when you try and deposit it .The hair looks metallic and has a shine about that say's damaged over processed very porous.

The clients wish to have better condition hair and a better colour. Long term would like to grow it But fully understands that it is beyond saving the length at this point in time!

Very realistic view and a good place to start from .Over time working together we can get this long healthy and a colour that you like for now we have to work on condition and getting some tone back into the hair. Creating a new shape and look will get rid of a great deal of the over damaged hair and will make you look and feel better.


Above same day same head:
Working using the over lifted Blonde and using deposit only formulation those being Demi no lift required . Low lighting section and panels  of shades back in to the hair to create depth and tone thus giving us dimension . Allowing it to look healthy with shine.
As you can see shape wise quite a lot of length was removed  but we still retained a soft line and the shape has lots of movement and texture to it.
Cut with razor so no blunt or harsh lines overall a greta effect and puts us well on the road to working together for a longer blonder look over time but with a more natural tones.

The Make over. they challenge us to be creative and yet fix the broken, repair the damaged, make happy the unhappy.  Make the bad look good. put right the wrong restore balance .
We are all perfectly skilled to do all these things with and for our clients.

one more make over tomorrow then we move on Mike B2MR

Saturday, 15 October 2011

A hair make over.

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR




A make over can make such a difference to a client.
It can change how they look and feel about them selves It can change how they act and relate to others.

Our role as a stylist is to offer sound advise offer solutions be creative. But we must always consider what we have to work with and on. 
Remember it's scissors or a razor it's not a wand! consider the clients features hair type life style.
Its called the consultation. It's when we communicate  we listen we use our professional skills.Our time to shine. 


This model young women came into the salon she was very heavily pregnant and stressed. She asked could would any one cut her hair off . Well i stood back and watched as things played out in the salon.
As follows:
The receptionist was concerned that the women was asking for a hair cut on impulse being so pregnant.
She asked members of staff who were free if they would like to cut this ladies hair both looked her up and down and said No saying she should not be doing this she cannot have thought it through.
Well think I make over time seeing this woman who said she had tried 3 other salons and been turned away .A challenge I would be happy to work with you on a new look.When is your baby due it's late she says I'm having it tomorrow!!! Ok then lets sit you down and have a chat!!
During the consultation it was agreed  that half measures was not going to work.She had long hair but leaving it long enough to tie back would just create more work and be boring. She agreed to trust me.I explained that i don't use scissors only a razor and off we went.

  
Now remember 39 weeks pregnant  oh and this shot taken with an old polaroid camera that i still keep handy .So lots of hair and a fringe or as bangs to work around. let the make over begin!!


                     Same day same model same clothes! just a touch of lip stick and a new look !! what do you think?


I was very happy with the look! New Mum to be cried she was so happy. Other clients in the salon Gob smacked at the change!! Easy to manage dry with her fingers .She had the baby the next day a little girl.
She called me some weeks later to thank me again for the change and the look. What we do is just so worth while we can change lives.We can make a difference. One client at a time.
Mike B2MR   

Thursday, 13 October 2011

Salon victoria my journey!

Well my vision dream passion is in constant ever changing flux from the journey below. To the personal journey and challenges I know work on.

For me now education sharing experience and knowledge is part of my every day the reward thus far all the positive feed back i get.
The challenge learning to write and present in a better more articulate fashion but also learning more and more skills on the computer.
My day starts at around 6am get up coffee whilst my wife gets ready for work my online day of sharing working on my next topic and replying to comments left.
I think that as Karen say's that jump out of bed what's next feeling is key to making things happen. staying and being positive.It is so easy to get up and in a few short moments set the pattern for how your day will unfold. We all chose or are responsible for out day it will either be good or bad.
Each and every day is an unscripted play for us all. we are not the producers or directors just player's each encounter is just another scene it that play that is today. However this play runs is dependant on our performance the role we play.
Although now i don't have a salon i still remain current and active. When i was last  actively doing education and platform work i also kept my hand in with a small salon  this business model could easily be applied on a much larger scale

I decided to share my formula for what was a huge success for me In having and growing a one person home based hair dressing business.
The Key was and is to decide what it is you want to do . What hours do you want to work,  How many days a week. The type of clientele you want to attract. How much you need or want to make.
This may seem an odd way of doing things but trust me it worked.
In my cases I did not want to work week ends. I did not want to work late nights. I only wanted to do Hair colour. Colour correction . Razor cutting.  Oh ! Did i mention only on women. No men. No children.
At this point you may be shaking your head. It worked
How my client base grew was word of mouth amongst groups of women from all different walks of life . Professionals. House wives. Every profession you can think of from. Female Police officer to Dental assistant to Bank manageress !  They all had two things in common . They wanted great hair at a fair price. I did not encourage clients to bring children with them.
The thing they all had in common was at some point they all knew some one else who came to me. Why? Because they all helped to build my business through recommendation.
It became like a club they kept me busy. I kept them happy by offering a service of the highest standard that they could afford to maintain. How so? you might ask.  Well this is where it gets interesting.
Every client always got a consultation an up date. First time or new clients would have to come for a consultation prior to first appointment. For this they would pay $20.00 for half an hour it would be deducted from first appointment booked if we decided to work together.
I say this because in this consultation time some times due to personality issues, not wanting to listen or my take advise i would suggest i was not the right person they were not ready for my advise or approach and would be better off in a larger salon.  Question:Why would I? Spend time with someone I did not get on with or have a good feeling for or like.
My clients all knew that i did this and that a consultation did not guarantee appointment. They  all respected this and yes I did and do sack clients who wasted my time. Boundaries.
I also had a no exception 15 minute late rule. later than that then re book no exceptions.Why because the knock on effect of this would keep other clients waiting that is unfair.
This for the most part was not the case and to this day i still stay in touch with many of my clients whom i consider to be friends.
Back to business pricing consider this. How much are you worth? How much do you want to make!
Remember. I was  booked the hours i wanted to work every day. I charged by the Hour for everything.
This was in Canada so what ever it is in Dollars would be the same her in pounds. you choose your rate.
For me $50.00 an hour. I would think fair and maintainable so if you want a razor cut a one hour appointment $50.00 Cut and colour most of the time 2hrs highlights maybe 21/2 so  $100-$125 quite reasonable. If colour correction an unknown then we would just watch the clock.
I would only ever book one client at a time never an over lap most of the time i would do three clients a day. Remember I'm working form home and alone low over heads.
So most days given that most clients were cut and colour i turned over $300 that's $1500.00 wk
I kept a range of products and was very up top date with products and how they worked however i did not sell my choice no inventory low over heads.

Not selling them I would write out a prescription and directions and send them all to one place that sold products in high volume so had great prices. This supported a local business. It showed my clients that i was committed to what was best for them. In return they would go and buy the products because they had been professional recommended without strings.
A record card was kept for every client address  contacting information.
A record of hair history both on first meeting and on going
A record of formulation timing out come. time spent fee charged.
Why you ask . well apart from making it easy to adjust and change formulations when i came to move I sold my client list and records. 
So building up honest relationships having trust giving value for money can create a great business without having to over work staying in control having fun meeting some great people.
A business built on mutual respect skill knowledge and honesty.
This business  also enabled me pursue my other passion as a platform artist and hair colour educator for a major colour company.
Clients loved to hear about shows and education work it also showed them total industry commitment passion motivation.
My dream my journey but it could be yours so simple.

The E-booksbeing worked on will cover many aspects in depth on the above business model and journey.

Tuesday, 11 October 2011

Lavender tone in bleach?


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR
The question searched was Bleaching pastel lightening powder: 
Lavender tone in bleach hair bleach powder. Does it really control pigment exposed help with lifting or is it just that colour of pale violet to give the illusion os pigment control? Hum!
Personally I think bleaching is bleaching. Toning is toning they do not happen at the same time so why would you apply at the same time ? In all my years of educating I have come across and indeed educated many products .I am still un convinced that the violet blue hue plays a useful role in the lifting process.
Surly if the toner was in the bleach powder the formulation would kill or neutralise the toner pigment.
A simple test for this is Mix up a small amount of permanent hair colour now stir in a little bleach powder. now see what happens!
Opps The bowl of colour the formula you mixed just went black and muddy! Why? The bleach powder killed the colour pigment molecules.
Have you ever had a bowl of colour and bowl of bleach on the same trolley? mixed the bleach a little maybe created a little dust.then notice dark spec's on the surface of the colour formula! yes thats the bleach killing pigment! be careful. It can happen.

Most powder bleach is designed. Not to make dust 'ie' Be heavy enough not to cloud up when being mixed. so we don't breath it in! health and safety at it's best.It's designed not to smell . It's designed to appeal and suggest it's gentle and controlling whilst lifting out the hair's natural pigment.
All good stuff. But the lavender tone does very little to control pigment as it lightens the hair lifting the pigment through it's various levels.
Below list of chemicals found in hair bleach the blue and violet are just for feel good factor. Once the hair has been lifted we then chose the required toner. To address the pigment we have exposed in the lifting process.
Some bleaches even have
Examples:
mixes to a smooth paste, easy monitoring of lightening action, white powder formula, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein and economical application costs.

Hydrolysed  wheat protien could be seen as an added alkaline opening the cuticle even more not that healthy but sounds very natural!
Another description:
Powder Bleach 500g, a premium bleaching powder Discover a new level of lightening performance with Blonde Expert Premium Bleaching Powder with Micro Active Technology, Delivers at least 8 levels of lift, even on a base 1, creamy consistency makes it simple to apply, rich conditioning formula leaves hair glossy and healthy-looking, this is a dust-free powder.
Finally:
Dust Free Bleach 450g. Available in Blue or White. Available in singles or twin packs please use the drop down box to choose. 
Back to the blue or violet what does it do what it's role !!!!! 
Here is a generic list of whats in a product and directions.
Dust free bleach powder with added violet tone for extra pigment control  do not use on scalp above 20 volume peroxide Dust free very gentle will lift 7 to 8 shades max 1 hour depending on developer used.
Ingredients:
potassium persulfate, sodium siicate ,ammonium persulfate,solanum,ethyexyl pelargonate.sodium sterate, then gum rice and potato starch leaf extract  the stach is what we mix to give us a workable paste.
All sounds very clear when you read it like this ! right  the key know how your product performs use it with care. Do not only trust what they claim or the rep tells you ! question re search!
Mike B2MR

Sunday, 9 October 2011

Violet shade and tone it's role hair colouring

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR


As I post my blogs and decide on topic's or articles. I always take a look at what is being searched for to see if it's an issue I can write about .

                                One such topic is Violet in hair colour! Such a cool topic!
Required to create a cool natural looking bleached Blonde Required to control unwanted yellow undertones!








When one thinks about violet as a colour or tone . I ask my self are we thinking Violet tone in controlled reds.Those shades of cool red that one see's so much of these days.
Or are we thinking about. The role Violet plays in the hair colour process. Violet as shade or tone plays a much bigger part in hair colouring than one might think. But it's almost behind the scene in the colour process.

Firstly with our natural or N series or natural series Violet will always play a key role depending on the level you are working on and what your target colour is .

                       As always to understand this we have to either look at the colour wheel or a chart.


With the chart i have attached one can see very clearly where and at what level Violet comes into play
from the numbers system on the left hand side we can see it's plays a very big role in levels of hair form 8 to 10.
Maybe your asking what role does it play?  All hair colour is a balance of our primary colours . RED. YELLOW. BLUE. When blended together at any given level you will alway get a perfect natural shade  balance at that given level. A natural level 8 will not be to warm or gold or to ash!
Even when doing Hight lights or partially lifting sections, as in shot below once desired level has been reached toning with be required.


What changes this. When we lift hair with a chosen level of peroxide with lighten it .this lightening process will expose the natural pigment in the hair. At our level natural 8 as we lift it i will expose yellow Orange [see chart]  this warmth would be fine if you are trying for a warmer shade at level 8. If however you are trying to maintain a natural level 8 then the warmth exposed would have to be controlled.

Remember we discussed balance well if we have exposed that warmth in our level 8. Exposing yellow and orange pigment we need to balance that off.

Yellow/ Orange or  Yellow / Yellow /Red   or Y+Y+R = yellow Orange

To restore our Natural balance what do you think is required?  what is lacking in the above formulation?
What will re balance us back to our Red yellow Blue?

Blue/Violet  or Blue / blue red  or B+B+R =  Blue violet.

How does this work well if you look at the two formulations : The balancing required for out natural level would be as follows
Our first formulation is gold and warm it lacks any Blue . The balancing formulation replaces that Blue
but also balances out the the lacking Red pigment that is dominated by the yellow in the first part.

Final  Balanced Level 8 tone  Y+Y+B+B+R+R =  Yellow Blue Red at a natural level 8
It's all about balance.

Violet Control yellow!  not ASH ! Yellow and Ash make  GREEN !



When pre lifting hair with Bleach to any level of Yellow . A violet Tone will re balance  you are introducing an equal amount of Blue and Red mixed together to control and re balance the yellow exposed in the lifting process.

If you assess the degree you have lifted as being slightly orange yellow then you would have  use a slightly more blue tone !   See chart above.

Violet in permanent colour or N series is normally calibrated to be the right amount of pigment fro the level you are working at. But choice of Developer or Peroxide will always pay a role in this.

Violet as a toner or pre lightened hair would be used when a yellow or pale yellow level of lift has been reached.

This wheel may help you as you can see Violet sits opposite the yellow telling us that it's would be required to restore balance. Opposites re balance or neutralise the unwanted pigment exposed or created.

Formulation: Target colour = Lift. Deposit. Timing: always the equation to think about.
Ask your self  Do you want to utilise or neutralise the pigment you are going to expose.
Violet plays a key roll as a controller in the Blue cool reds and even in shades as Dark a 3 N see chart above.
In the toning of hair Violet plays a key role in controlling the yellow pigment exposed and giving a really nice shade of platinum Blonde. Always when toning stay with the toner as it develops to get the desired effect you are looking for . In some cases of toning if left on to long the pigment can over deposit.

Cool reds depicted by the V in above shot.  Fashion shade top row. Violet based high lift Blonde toner second in from the right second row.
I hope this answers some questions if not feel free to post questions . Mike B2MR

Tuesday, 4 October 2011

Transition from solid colour to highlights

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

This is a topic that raises questions all the time by clients,  women friends and stylists.  That question is on  the topic of moving away from a solid colour to Highlights low lights or multi tonal slowly going lighter.In many cases to work with some percentage of grey hair or change in skin tone
Indeed growing out a build up of home or over the counter colour and the constant battle with Grey roots or re growth.
The same model has been used though out this colour journey  from solid to lighter and more multi tonal.


Above a shot of a perfectly done colour roots formulation for 30% grey coverage colour balanced with a nice shade of Copper beige looks healthy and in great condition.
The issue roots every 4 to 5 weeks and the fading issue that happens over time even with the best of colour formulations.

It was decided to try and attain a lighter and multi toned colour that would allow the Grey to blend and grow out longer in between colouring.


Above: As stated same model same head we left the colour to grow out for as long as we could 7 to 8 weeks this models hair grows very quickly.
We introduced some highlights lifting with bleach starting with the ends and mid lengths and working our way in .Why you may ask? Well the end s and mid lengths had been coloured before this pigment had to be lifted out to a workable shade then the roots lifted to match in,.The original  shade was also highlighted back in to hair ,Some of the Grey was just left.
The above result was after one correction or re balance session.


This past week end another 7 weeks on it was time to do the colour again adjusting the ratio of highlights and low lights.the shot above was pre colouring.As you can see although grown out the shade and depth of tone held well and the grey issue is less apparent.


Above colour taken in bright sun shine but one can see the multi tones an dhow we have lightened the hair but still kept the warmth and copper tones.the under section is still solid and done with a demi formulation. Colours used
Roots Goldwell 7KG 10 vol colour balanced mid lengths end with colourance.
Highlights 10 vol bleach roots - re growth  20 vol mid lengths ends. [next time roots only on carry through]
lanza colour 6RB demi formulation for darker low light deposit only root to end and under section.


Finally happy model liking the lighter colour and less root issue . We will now be looking to high light and low light every 10 to 12 weeks. so by working with our client she is happy has a new look that lasts longer .
She is happy that although the technique cost more to do she goes longer in between services but the condition feels better and she loves the change.
Taken October 1st in the Uk with 30 degrees of sunshine and blue sky a record heat breaking week end.
Working with your client talking her or him through options. Explaining that doing it in stages over a few visits and a certain time period will create best results. Taking a little colour journey and adventure together.
Of course should she ever want to re visit the solid darker richer shade then a simple application of a Demi formulation would do the trick with over stressing the hair or compromising condition.

Monday, 3 October 2011

Hair Stylists: Asking for help seeking advise

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR


What is it that holds salon owners back from asking for help and advise seeking the help of a professional salon consultant?  What makes salon owners wary of accepting offers of help and guidance?
Why are many salon owners stylist's so hesitant to consider alternatives possible new a ways of looking at situation old repeating issues and problems.
Could a personal salon coach help you and your team.would you allow them to share their thoughts and experience with you?
These might be aspects of operational business improvement, salon training staff development. What holds us back from facing up to personal assessment and growth?

                                                            We can hide behind a mask!



What is it that holds so many of us back?  
After many visits to many salons talking with some owners who have been kind enough to allow me a little time I have concluded it's.

Three issues:
Trust, Fear, Money!

                                                     We can face up to things ask for help!



Not always in this order but one or all of the above. I see so many salon's struggling to find an identity. So many al trying the same approach to find an endless stream of new clients. As one new salon open's  one just down the road fails. Constant signs in windows experienced stylists required.

Yet in these same salons. The staff are standing around or maybe seated on the nice garden set out front of the salon smoking.
Is it not time to take a step back and really look at what you have and the direction you are going in ? If that direction is backward or stationary then you need help.

We all need help from time to time. 
It is so easy to wonder off the path we have chosen or the course we have laid in. It's time like these that an out side set of eyes a fresh approach can help.
Will it does it cost? Yes of course but it should be that you pay by result! Or that the results are such that it was a good investment.
We talk so much about training continued skill up dates .Why not business maintenance and check up
from goals to vision to staffing and training?
I see many salons now also calling them selves an academy. These same salons are not very busy are posting adds constantly for staff . Why would any stylist pay to do a one day or one week course at an establishment like this ?
Training of young creative trainee's is the same deal. It's not just cheap labor! Be they employed or on some government scheme they still should get the highest standard of training possible.
If you are running a salon teaching training skills at any level are you team qualified to do this?
Maybe you should be concentrate on the salon and not have the school /academy leave that to the colleges and certified establishments!

                                                         Reach out for that hand of help!


Taking on an apprentice is a huge commitment when you really consider the journey. A young and impressionable trainee fresh out of school . Over a given period lest say 3 years you teach them every aspect of our industry not just practical and theory. Also communication service and consultation skills,
You also become a mentor to young person who you will influencing as they move from young adult into a fully qualified free thinking fully trained adult and hopefully a professional stylist.
Can you are you equipped for this ?  Is you salon do you have the right team in place? Time to be honest!

Just like having certain skills or  specialising in any given field be it Colouring. Cutting. Up/do wedding and event hair. Training is a skill to be learned. Maybe many of us should decide what we really want! Maybe owning and managing your salon should be enough for you if so make it the best it can be surround your self with the right people.
Never forget that our business is built on what I call the.
                                       " The Three R's' Reputation. Recommendation. Retention! 
It's not built on that constant looking for new clients, it's looking after what you have!
It's investing in your self and your business and those around you.
Its relating to your clients addressing their issues, listening to them . Being honest open and genuine. remembering little things about them  their life that last visit or conversation. health issues worries confidences should be kept 'Never discussed'!!  Rather than talking about your self the coming week end the holiday the normal hip pocket who cares conversations so often associated with the hair salon and stylists.
Remember it is possible to have a long term last relationship with your client care for them and they will care for and about you they will help you build a successful business.
Loyalty. Respect. The attributes we earn through our actions. The service we offer.the care we take.
Mike B2MR

Wedding day hair, Working with the bride.

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea's on matters relating to hair colouring skill, techniques and anything industry related.

Last year I was working with my daughter to find and create that perfect wedding hair Up-do that special look making her feel princess for a day.
I have tried to keep a record of this journey we took together as a stylist in some ways more pressure in others a very special unique position to be in my parting gift to my daughter an Up do forged from love a look worthy of our journey up to this special moment,
building a base pony tail scouring pad at crown
As i write this i also reflect on what an important day this truly is and we as stylist should not take this day lightly when doing wedding hair.
With so many years experience in our industry taking on doing my daughters hair has been an interesting journey of reflection on a personal level but also thought evoking in the process the emotion the expectation for a bride of this day,
We as stylist can make this a good day a day to remember or a disaster caught of film video for eternity. so we should not take this on lightly and we have to be prepared to commit to this journey.
starting to work on a shape
The skill re leave college and any said academy with are for the most part so basic colouring cutting and Up-do's a safe set to get you bye but i implore you take the time to hone these skills especially if you intend on promoting your self as a wedding up-do specialist and charging accordingly.
I think that as mentioned so many times the initial honest consultation is key to success honest sharing a vision working out a time table for practice sessions colouring if needed a calender to work with.
Stress to your client that the first session is getting a feel for the hair how it moves lies bends folds, yes it does all this , I firmly believe that hair indicates where it wants to lie how the shape forms all we have to do is watch feel.
freshly coloured no pre-styling tools
I will post a whole page of looks that just happened as we worked towards our final creation.

Last March my daughter came to stay for the week end to have her colour done and to see if we both felt ok with me doing her hair we had already discussed that if i did not feel comfortable doing it or she was not getting a look she liked getting a stylist in yes! some else would be ok i would be off the hook!!

Well doing her colour has never been an issue but we set aside a good chunk of the day to just play!
So colour done we set about doing some looks she has very long hair I am not big on hot rollers and hot irons trying to create curl I am blow it straight back comb boy build a shape sculpture the hair, building a shape form a foundation a central point or points, I cut hair the same way build on a shape have a vision before i start the same with an up do  weight line shape texture movement.
Build a firm base


Emily's hair is only highlighted top section to the crown the rest the underneath is totally natural the highlights low lights blend in perfectly,

This was our result and gave us direction

When starting this type of up do i start with a ponytail on the highest point on the crown maybe even slightly forward i then back comb the roots of the pony tail and get an old fashioned pot scouring pad cut a hole in the center like a doughnut, put the pony through this grip in down tightly my base my height my foundation. this can be located any place you like depending on your vision on our first session we took digital shots after each up do discussed what we liked what we did not like and moved forward three up-do's alter we had a vision a meeting of the minds this is now about 3hrs worth of playing.
We now had quite the time until our next meeting turned out to be the last week of August now for a final colour and another up-do working from our above look. the key here has been trust i have given thought to our final look and also played around with different sections to create this look.

shape starts to form

What fun final highlights process in the garden i use papers they are waxed on one side you pull them right into the roots they don't move no folding no squashing product space for expansion no bleeds
four shade one bleach Blonde the rest Demi deposit low lights.
once processed we style blow out and it all starts to come together the thinking the patients all worth it. so now the final look on last practice day i hope that you agree it was worth the trial's.
in the middle of the shot the thin dark band is a blue streak i made to provide a little edge that something blue.


So now nothing to do until the big day well that was last Saturday so here are a few of the final shots.
This really was a very special exercise for me but i think i have also grown from it both from the process and the hands on experience of being so close to this as such a huge event.
My hope is that in sharing this it may just make even a few reflect on our clients the service the inspiration we can offer the consultation the journey we take the influence we can have.
The trust that is instilled in us and what a privilege it is to be a part of this very special day.
I hope this journey has enjoyable for those who take the time to read it,

A special thank you to Emily for letting me share this with you
Mike B2MR

Wedding day hair a real story.

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: regular postings of fresh new topic's

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea's on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related. Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience
preparing hair planning Up-do
As I played with my daughter's hair whilst trying to find that perfect look for her trying to make her have an elegant sophistication I was drawn to the reminder of the very fact that this for a young women is that child hood dream her dream come true. Hair. Makeup .Beautiful Dress. That happy ever after.
I was also and have been as a Dad. For some time been reflecting on the passing of time how quickly we went to baby bouncer to this. As of now it's official my little girl is married and all grown up!

Any way I digress but well worth a ponder and a mention.
Moving on we have to remember that peek wedding time for me was around 1978 to mid eighties, remember the hair wash leave perms! The Purdy cut. Blow dried hair  lots of volume. Lady Di look a likes. How topical this of all weeks with a Royal wedding in London. Congratulations to the couple.
Starting to build a shape

One big wedding I attended comes to mind clients name changed ! This particular wedding was a big event months and months of planning and hair growing.
But a true story all events happened: 
The plan here for Lucy was an up do very elegant  it had to show off the family tiara a very Breakfast at Tiffany Audrey Hepburn look. Any way i arrived at this country house/mansion  huge iron gates, gravel drive way oh my good it was a true family estate peacocks running around the chapel was it the grounds,
Parking area allocated, Helicopter paid marked out. Marquee the size of a big top right down to wooden floor laid down and me still not fully comfortable with weddings all the fuss pomp ceremony.
Although I has pretty much conquered the fear of the up do. I had replaced it with the resentment of the event the ceremony! Being on reflection a little discourteous and unprofessional.
I would usually arrive in a pair painters white bib brace work pants or an old aviator flight suit basic casual - work man!  oh they were very fashionable at the time .why did i act this way  I now wonder ! To carry this irreverence on I would have all my kit in a black plastic bag grab it from car arrive with it the slung casually over my shoulder. [quite dreadful] and really un-professional. I did thankfully eventually get over rebellion embrace and enjoy the privilege of being part of this special day. I did  get a camera case for my tools and dress smartly!! In some cases even attended the event with those very special client I would wave the fee as a wedding gift never expected and I loved doing it!
slowly work on the hair to create the look
 I would intentionally park in the wrong place. In this case walking towards this monster stately home gravel drive peacocks running around.  The huge  stone stairs up to the front no door bell! just about to pound on the door and it swings open! The butler! good morning may I help you. looking down his nose! or so i thought . yes say's I. I'm here to do Lucy's hair very well I will inform her you are here the trades man entrance is around the back, Is that your car he then says? yes kindly move it to the allocated car park!
Well now biting my cheek took a little breath and said firstly I am not a trades man I do not do back doors the car is parked so I can get away once done before the wedding starts! So please tell Lucy I am here if she wants her hair done! Again how rude of me! With that an up stairs window fly's open and loud voice shouts down my name followed by oh so glad your hear come on up would you like a glass of champers!
 In I go past the butler still looking a tad put out. Up this huge stair case in these time it was fashionable to slightly different artistic creative yet none conforming so I had a novelty value the plan was do the hair of the Bride I tried not to do the bridal party to many heads ! In this instance it was the Up-do but then i had to hang around until the formal part of the wedding was over and then cut all of her hair off one to shock her friends this was so much about out doing each other bigger and better you know leaving in a helicopter or hot air balloon!
It was also being cut off for the three week beach holiday have to admit she did look better with short hair.
Shape starts to form
The Up-do went quite smoothly fear had been dealt with many practice sessions so it became easy I looked like I was in control yes a big act! yes but key to keeping the bride relaxed as she trusts what I'm doing.

The hair is up. Make up on I get to help with the dress. I forgot to mention hairdressers get away with murder when it comes to dressing the bridal party the thinking being we are all gay. Half naked top less did not really matter I would help get into do up the dress do up buttons  arrange the train.
If a photo session was called for spread out dress for different shots take charge.
different look and shape
shape from texture form
This was as I have indicated a huge and formal wedding so photo's on the stairs in the main hall now with all the staff looking on yes butler too!!ha ha revenge was mine as he admired my work!

The chapel was in the grounds but i now find out a horse and carriage ride away the guest and the press are all there! Father. Dad. Lord of the manner giving her away nice chatty man but no way is he going to help her in or out of the Carriage with that dress I now have a new role help her into the carriage load very carefully the long silk train careful not to wrinkle it then load myself climb in on the floor! Oh yes the only way this works is if i have my head up the brides underskirt well.
How to get to know your client and bride ping her garter! The fathers asked if I am ok on the floor ? slightly nervously tells me how thankful he is for my assistance. Yes I assure him that I am fine it's not every day that I get to put my head up a brides skirt! He laughed this was going well,we had broken the ice.
Lucy giggles ! I asked  how do you think the groom would be if he knew I had my head up the dress of his soon to be wife! ha ha
Well once at the chapel the door is opened foot man opens the door ! The step folded down I appear from under the dress the press taking pictures help the bride down spread out the train the and formality of the this splendid event returns. But for a brief time in that carriage it was funny we were equal drawn to together by the event and the situation. She looked amazing. I was proud of the look Dad was very proud.This is what weddings are about Princess for the day.
finally a shape that works for me and the Bride.
The rest of the day went with out a hitch I hung around had a walk in the grounds I don't do weddings.I was always invited as a guest but hey I am doing a job and being paid very well paid so would not cross the line of business and pleasure maybe why I never dressed for the event!
The time came the dress came of the hair came down and I had 20 mins to cut all her hair off into a funky sort wash and go look hair flew all over the room nothing like audience to encourage you to through hair around we went from half way down her back to maybe 2inches in a very short space of time, again all done what a transformation she now puts on her going away suit all done. Just as she is leaving to rejoin the reception I get a big hug a kiss and many many thanks your amazing oh and send Daddy the bill won't you!!
I'm on my way another wedding another day another story The butler opened the door as I left with my plastic bag of tricks and the car is still out front! a good day.
With planning fear can be over come and for me with a bit more time embracing and enjoying the event the brides special day for it was not about me it is and was about the bride her day!
In my case now my daughters big day maybe this day was what it's all been for experience.
I have on a number of occasions become close friends of a bride and it would be fitting to give her as a wedding gift my time and service as my thank you for her support over the years, for me these gestures make what we do so worth while,  A long way from the hairdresser rebel!
Why today to post this article.Well it was this wedding day experience. This open welcoming family that opened my eye's to accept that it's the Brides day it's a Dad giving away his daughter be it a Lord or a normal working class person. Its the same My role is to be professional to think how much of an honor it is to be a small part of this day. It was this day the boundaries of class distinction and stigma came down for me.
It was the day I started to enjoy embrace and attend the Weddings of my clients when invited.
I became a better and more professional hairdresser and person.
In closing we as stylist have to remember that we offer a service it's our skill and creative talent that we are relying on. But we must remember that humility and understanding the magnitude of the day will keep us grounded and sympathetic to the Brides and her families needs in what can be a very emotionally charged day.

Again Congratulations to the Royal couple
I have very much enjoyed re living this day and sharing it with you.
Mike B2MR
                                                http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/