Lavender tone in bleach?

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

The question searched was Bleaching pastel lightening powder: 

Lavender tone in bleach hair bleach powder. Does it really control pigment exposed help with lifting or is it just that colour of pale violet to give the illusion os pigment control? Hum!

Personally I think bleaching is bleaching. Toning is toning they do not happen at the same time so why would you apply at the same time ? In all my years of educating I have come across and indeed educated many products .I am still un convinced that the violet blue hue plays a useful role in the lifting process.

Surly if the toner was in the bleach powder the formulation would kill or neutralise the toner pigment.

A simple test for this is Mix up a small amount of permanent hair colour now stir in a little bleach powder. now see what happens!

Opps The bowl of colour the formula you mixed just went black and muddy! Why? The bleach powder killed the colour pigment molecules.

Have you ever had a bowl of colour and bowl of bleach on the same trolley? mixed the bleach a little maybe created a little dust.then notice dark spec's on the surface of the colour formula! yes thats the bleach killing pigment! be careful. It can happen.

Most powder bleach is designed. Not to make dust 'ie' Be heavy enough not to cloud up when being mixed. so we don't breath it in! health and safety at it's best.It's designed not to smell . It's designed to appeal and suggest it's gentle and controlling whilst lifting out the hair's natural pigment.

All good stuff. But the lavender tone does very little to control pigment as it lightens the hair lifting the pigment through it's various levels.

Below list of chemicals found in hair bleach the blue and violet are just for feel good factor. Once the hair has been lifted we then chose the required toner. To address the pigment we have exposed in the lifting process.

Some bleaches even have

Examples:

mixes to a smooth paste, easy monitoring of lightening action, white powder formula, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein and economical application costs.

Hydrolysed  wheat protien could be seen as an added alkaline opening the cuticle even more not that healthy but sounds very natural!

Another description:

Powder Bleach 500g, a premium bleaching powder Discover a new level of lightening performance with Blonde Expert Premium Bleaching Powder with Micro Active Technology, Delivers at least 8 levels of lift, even on a base 1, creamy consistency makes it simple to apply, rich conditioning formula leaves hair glossy and healthy-looking, this is a dust-free powder.

Finally:

Dust Free Bleach 450g. Available in Blue or White. Available in singles or twin packs please use the drop down box to choose. 

Back to the blue or violet what does it do what it's role !!!!! 

Here is a generic list of whats in a product and directions.

Dust free bleach powder with added violet tone for extra pigment control  do not use on scalp above 20 volume peroxide Dust free very gentle will lift 7 to 8 shades max 1 hour depending on developer used.

Ingredients:

potassium persulfate, sodium siicate ,ammonium persulfate,solanum,ethyexyl pelargonate.sodium sterate, then gum rice and potato starch leaf extract  the stach is what we mix to give us a workable paste.

All sounds very clear when you read it like this ! right  the key know how your product performs use it with care. Do not only trust what they claim or the rep tells you ! question re search!

Mike B2MR

Violet shade and tone it's role hair colouring

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR

As I post my blogs and decide on topic's or articles. I always take a look at what is being searched for to see if it's an issue I can write about .

                                One such topic is Violet in hair colour! Such a cool topic!
Required to create a cool natural looking bleached Blonde Required to control unwanted yellow undertones!

When one thinks about violet as a colour or tone . I ask my self are we thinking Violet tone in controlled reds.Those shades of cool red that one see's so much of these days.
Or are we thinking about. The role Violet plays in the hair colour process. Violet as shade or tone plays a much bigger part in hair colouring than one might think. But it's almost behind the scene in the colour process.

Firstly with our natural or N series or natural series Violet will always play a key role depending on the level you are working on and what your target colour is .

                       As always to understand this we have to either look at the colour wheel or a chart.

With the chart i have attached one can see very clearly where and at what level Violet comes into play
from the numbers system on the left hand side we can see it's plays a very big role in levels of hair form 8 to 10.
Maybe your asking what role does it play?  All hair colour is a balance of our primary colours . RED. YELLOW. BLUE. When blended together at any given level you will alway get a perfect natural shade  balance at that given level. A natural level 8 will not be to warm or gold or to ash!
Even when doing Hight lights or partially lifting sections, as in shot below once desired level has been reached toning with be required.

What changes this. When we lift hair with a chosen level of peroxide with lighten it .this lightening process will expose the natural pigment in the hair. At our level natural 8 as we lift it i will expose yellow Orange [see chart]  this warmth would be fine if you are trying for a warmer shade at level 8. If however you are trying to maintain a natural level 8 then the warmth exposed would have to be controlled.

Remember we discussed balance well if we have exposed that warmth in our level 8. Exposing yellow and orange pigment we need to balance that off.

Yellow/ Orange or  Yellow / Yellow /Red   or Y+Y+R = yellow Orange

To restore our Natural balance what do you think is required?  what is lacking in the above formulation?
What will re balance us back to our Red yellow Blue?

Blue/Violet  or Blue / blue red  or B+B+R =  Blue violet.

How does this work well if you look at the two formulations : The balancing required for out natural level would be as follows
Our first formulation is gold and warm it lacks any Blue . The balancing formulation replaces that Blue
but also balances out the the lacking Red pigment that is dominated by the yellow in the first part.

Final  Balanced Level 8 tone  Y+Y+B+B+R+R =  Yellow Blue Red at a natural level 8
It's all about balance.

Violet Control yellow!  not ASH ! Yellow and Ash make  GREEN !

When pre lifting hair with Bleach to any level of Yellow . A violet Tone will re balance  you are introducing an equal amount of Blue and Red mixed together to control and re balance the yellow exposed in the lifting process.

If you assess the degree you have lifted as being slightly orange yellow then you would have  use a slightly more blue tone !   See chart above.

Violet in permanent colour or N series is normally calibrated to be the right amount of pigment fro the level you are working at. But choice of Developer or Peroxide will always pay a role in this.

Violet as a toner or pre lightened hair would be used when a yellow or pale yellow level of lift has been reached.

This wheel may help you as you can see Violet sits opposite the yellow telling us that it's would be required to restore balance. Opposites re balance or neutralise the unwanted pigment exposed or created.

Formulation: Target colour = Lift. Deposit. Timing: always the equation to think about.
Ask your self  Do you want to utilise or neutralise the pigment you are going to expose.
Violet plays a key roll as a controller in the Blue cool reds and even in shades as Dark a 3 N see chart above.
In the toning of hair Violet plays a key role in controlling the yellow pigment exposed and giving a really nice shade of platinum Blonde. Always when toning stay with the toner as it develops to get the desired effect you are looking for . In some cases of toning if left on to long the pigment can over deposit.

Cool reds depicted by the V in above shot.  Fashion shade top row. Violet based high lift Blonde toner second in from the right second row.
I hope this answers some questions if not feel free to post questions . Mike B2MR

A Haircolouring Nightmare.

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR
Regular postings of fresh new topic's

As professional stylists we are duty bound to offer. The highest standard of professional skilled knowledge, service, technical ability. To do the very best we can without taking short cuts or rushing and charging accordingly for such service.

So why do so many stylist's over book, take short cuts, over charge and then wonder why they lose clients. make mistakes!
This is a true account with out any names of either salon or people.
However i do thank the client for allowing me to share this rather harrowing experience.
I was recently asked advise by a friend living over sea's about going lighter maybe some nice caramel toffee low lights.
My suggestion was seek professional skilled advise from your stylist. Have a consultation. Discuss your goal and optimum colour target. Be honest about past colouring in this instance quite long hair  mid back level sort of Bra strap. Her natural level would be around level 5. The colour used a rich dark brown around level 4. So long term build up would be a issues. Lots of pigment to exposed with build up of darker shade in the lifting process. The roots will lift Blonde very quickly so apply last with low volume peroxide to blend.
Prolonged use of the dark brown colour would. Indicate long term build up of colour mid length's and ends.
So I suggested that she should ask for strand test. Remove a small amount of hair from the nape area and have it coloured. This would require bleaching but applying from the ends up through mid length finally the root. Once lifted evenly apply toner to even out to desired shade and tone.
Why so you may ask? the ends will lift the slowest and will dictate the end result the mid lengths although coloured less still holding lots pigment. So although it will lift more. It may well throw lots pigment in the lifting process this will tend to be very warm copper or orange.
So armed with all this advise and information off she goes to get her new caramel low lights done.

pre having low lights done coloured level 4

Firstly here is the shot of the hair prior to the colouring.

This colouring was always done as deposit only. No lift .when going tone on tone or darker unless you want to add or increase warmth you do not need lifting levels of hydrogen peroxide.

So any build up is just layers of dark pigment. As stated a rich dark brown it matches her skin colour and hazel eyes. 



So many salons over book, don't allow the time and effort to do a job correctly.When things go wrong they may make excuses about the product, may pretend it looks great. It's how it was supposed to look.
But it's the client who. Has to be excited love this new look get what she wants and requested.
They have trusted us. Sat in the chair patiently. They asked all the right questions .They gave us time to decide on the best course of action to take. Having supposedly considered all options.

After low lights

 So why does this happen?
What went wrong? what do you see? what do you think?

Remember request low lights. Caramel toffee. Remember suggested strand test. Consultation . Remember I suggested lift from ends in  allow that the mid lengths may throw orange and roots would lift really quickly.

So lets look at this. Firstly I was shocked. Sad. Appalled by this poor quality job. Caused by taking short cuts with very little thought given to the process or out come! A rush job.
Firstly the the blonde on the roots to eye level really does not work for her. It sucks the colour from her skin and is just a nothing dull boring shade of blonde.
The mid lengths did not lift as much so formed a colour bar, a very bright copper orange the dark pigment lifted out. Finally the mid lengths and ends they only lifted a little so still look solid and dark very little lift.
There is no way by just applying toner this can or could be fixed.  It was doomed to fail. This was caused by some one being lazy, applying bleach de-colouriser roots to ends and just hoping that it may all lift evenly or at least enough to colour balance it! Hoping that whatever pigments exposed could be evened out with a toner. In doing this the tones made the blonde dull had little effect on the orange and well the ends ! Hum Hoping is not good enough!!
The strand test should have been carried out in advance of the appointment. The strand test shown and discussed with client then the process carried out correctly with a great out come. 
Why oh why do we allow this to happen? Why do we let our selves down . Is it lack of time?  Is it Easy money? well hardly if now you have to fix and re do! Lack caring. I really hope this creates some thought and feed back.
This can be fixed. I have advised the person in question what to do. She is having it re done later in the week . I am hoping she will let me have shots of finished job and i will then post and discuss the out come and process.

Enjoy the topic let me know your thoughts