Monday, 8 August 2011

changing times in the hair salon!

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR






Owning a salon. Working in a salon being a part of a team.  Maybe your renting a chair in a salon have your own business?  maybe your a small  work from a home salon business. A mobile stylist.
All of these are totally respectable avenues to explore within out industry but over the past years thing have changed hugely.

We have responsibility to our selves our work mates our clients to have a full understanding of all matters relating to health and safety. The legislation governing the safe use and indeed disposal of products keep up to date books and records having qualification, certification, and licenses.



On top of this new products new techniques the challenges of running owning managing a business managing people if quite a lot to deal with.  How do you?

Then there is finding time to reflect on. The direction you and your business are going in. The service you offer the standard of work being done. What ever your business model. How often do you take the time to reflect on any of these topic's in an honest reflective manner?
We have to find time take the time to explore avenues to offer help advise guidance.Training up grades
staying current with all aspects of our career and business. Here a few links to check out.





http://www.doubleyoursalonsales.com/                             


Keeping up with education in our chosen field is so important. Education creates excitement because there is always something new to learn. lose the passion lose the drive.
Education keeps you connected product knowledge is a must nowadays. Clients want to know that the ingredients and formulations are safe and what we recommending for them to use will work and be value for money. we as stylist need to know cause effect understand what we are using and why.

Social Media: LinkedIn, Facebook. Twitter. for examples help connect us with others who are inspire to share what works and doesn't work. Blog site where people share thoughts views opinions reviews.

professional groups and bodies always  good to be apart of Linked In is a great place to share and build a business profile.


We have to be aware and have an understanding of changes in the law and regulations pertaining to our profession Now I'm curious to learn more so. I'm not putting anyone (client, work mates and myself) in danger. Just because one is certified in a new technique it does not mean we have the full picture and trust what we are told as truth set in stone!



Law's and regulation are in constant change the information we are given on products how they work and indeed the effects that that can cause are not always clear but the burden to ask the right questions is on us their are no excuses for not knowing or understanding.
With a little time and patient we can research products read reviews get full insight into the good and bad what works and maybe what does not the more we as stylist share net work and connect the stronger we become its part of giving back sharing your experience strengths. It is my personal belief that if we know something but don't share it pass it on then it's a total waste!
I try to share to promote and sometimes pass on warnings . I try to communicate with others in our industry and to this ends in the space of 6 months an now net working all over the world with other like minded people in our industry. 
At the end of the day it's up to you what do you want are you prepared to make the changes needed to stay in the now? Its your journey your adventure!






A topic has arisen that is a follow on from my earlier posting ownership management chair rental. It's how we look at salary commission based earning or Chair rental. What is a fair rate? What is a fair way to compensate salon owner and stylist ? Without causing decent work place break down creating unwanted issues.
For the most part stylists after training will move around a few times trying to find a fit a work place that allows them to build up a good client base a place they can earn what they see is a good wage.
In many cases as time goes bye and experience is gained and our stylist starts to get busier bring in more money to the salon. As this happens resentment can set in with regard to ratio of pay to turnover.



How can this be prevented what are the signs of an unhappy Staff!
In many cases the staff room gossip signs of apathy lateness. Work standard dropping standard of service suffering.
Most stylist will think about and see things that exist within their work bubble a simple world of I do my clients they pay X at the end of the day i have brought in X and sold Y yet my take home pay is 
only X and that's before i pay Tax, I do all the work it's not fair my boss should get so much after all what do they do!! 
Commission can be mixture of guaranteed basic and commission targets as a productivity incentive or just commission. what is fair well of course as we get busier more established build our client base we can earn more on a regular bases but the thresholds will always be  how many clients can we do how much do we charge whilst maintaining standards and service!
It is a natural progression for stylist to look to get a bigger cut of the pie choices start your own business not easier or look at chair rental.



This gets interesting chair rental was when it first came out was quite visionary a stylist pays to rent a chair a space pays X per month and runs a small business within a business. Of course the down side is having to pay that rent whether you are busy or not! having to keep books pay your own tax. stock appointments you are your own little self employed Business.
As an evolution of this a new chair rental business scenario has come to my attention.
A stylist rents a chair fro a monthly fixed fee but also pays a percentage of their take to the salon owner. Hum! for the this owner provides salon reception sales support motivation marketing skills sounds good its seem's to be a blend between commission based and self employed.
But lets look at this with some bogus numbers.

Lets say our stylist is busy and turns over £1000.00 per week
£1000.00 x 4 = £ 4000.00 Month 50% commission  stylist earns £2000.00pre tax
now lets look at chair rental 
£1000.00 x4 = £ 4000.00 lets say chair rental £800.00 month  stylist take £3200.00 out of this they have to pay all expenses and Tax, insurance, stock assistance, everything. but the larger take is appealing.
£1000.00 x4 = £ 4000.00  then chair rental £ 800.00 month share of commission 50% 50% splits
so our £ 4000.00 a month less £800.00 = £ 3200.00 divided x 2 = £1600.00 
This would be £1600.00 for the stylist. £ 2400.00 salon owner.
Although the stylist left the salon in our first example paying commission for a better deal more control a bigger piece of the pie the down side is booking keeping paying tax keeping accounts.

From a Stylist point of view strait chair rental is the best deal but involves a lot more work and commitment from a stylist it's time to grow up and take responsibility for your self your actions.
The example that seems to offer the worst deal from a stylist point of view is rental and turnover split!
For this to work the split has to be less on the turnover  to make it as appealing as just chair rental the split would have to be Rent + 25% take fro the salon owner.

By nature Stylist will always want to move on find a place where they feel they are making a fair wage for there skill,  they will always feel they are working making money for the boss or owner it's natural
not always realistic given the costs of doing business.
In closing I think it is because of the above options many choose to become home based or mobile stylist.

I do however think that there is a fair balance that affords both salon owners and stylist  away of coming together to work and create a successful business that provides for all the key is communication honesty, discussing goals oh and not being greedy yep being fair you need each other .
hope this is helpful to all those trying to work out a career or business Move.
None of the above take into account charging VAT and keeping records and paying revenue for this said Tax. you are in essence a tax collector this Money should be put to one side.
Mike. B2MR




Sunday, 7 August 2011

Dark hair or Brunette to Blonde or lighter

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR




How do you go from brunette to blonde? 
What are the pit falls things to look out for when going from dark to light shade ? How blonde can you go? What shade should you expect to achieve from a brunette level 4 to5? I raise this questions because skin tone. Eye colour.  play such a key role when switching colour.

Brunette to Blonde can certainly have it's challenges. Having decided to go lighter the question becomes. How blonde you want to go? You then have to decide on all over colour or highlights? If your hair is Naturally Brunette level 4 to 5 then the lighter you go. The more issues of warmth will come in to the equation.  This warmth will normally present as. Red orange . Orange .Yellow orange. Also roots or regrowth have to be considered.
Brunette natural lifted 4 levels still very warm.
As you lift your hair the pigment it contains is exposed. So as you lift from natural level the first tone you will see is Red. Second level would be Red with orange hue. Third level would be orange. Forth level orange yellow. This amount of lift would normally be about 4 levels. Depending on the level we are staring from we can choose our target level of colour and shade.  With high lift colour and using the pigment it contains to control tone exposed pigment. Any thing lighter than four levels will require Pre-lightening.
Consider what shade you want. Maybe highlights and low lights would give you a lighter but more natural look. Lots to consider.
If very dark hair maybe Asian. Oriental. 1st Nation native or previously coloured then unwanted pigment will be an issue. 

pre lightened and high lighted
I strongly suggest a professional consultation before embarking on this. It's not just slap on the shade indicate don the box.
If your hair has been coloured to a Brunette shade and your wanting to go Blonde you really need help you could end up with a hair night mare. Many issues when doing this procedure. Be warned you could end up with yellow roots orange mid lengths and red ends!! Consultation honest advise good service from a knowledgeable Styling and technical team.


Some the issues raised, have covered in past blogs and topic's  Lift deposit . Tone. Highlighting and Blonde looks feel free to look at back issues or ask question via blog contact.



Considering how light to go can take some thought. Hold light swatches against your skin. Hey try wigs you will be amazed how skin colour. Eye colour. Changes when you lighten your hair.
Also make up and indeed choice of clothing colour shade and style might have to be thought about.

Good luck be brave but consider it harder to go light and get the right shade than going back to natural or darker!
A use full link on controlling shade pigment tone.





How dark? How blonde? much to Consider. Just remember skin colour, eye colour, Pigment and tone.
have your stylist explain this to you.
Mike B2MR

Friday, 5 August 2011

Hair stylist's. Are we the product? we offer service

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR



I find the more I write and think about topic's to keep my little blog up to date and interesting. The more I reflect on. What it means to me! what I can offer! What can I share to keep them current and interesting:

In working through this thought process it brings me back to the key point of what we all do and offer service.
Yes it's skill it's knowledge it's communication but none of this matters if we don't offer. Good service and good value for money service. Value for money does not mean discount or cheap just value.
What is the product we market?
It's our skill, creativity, knowledge. ability to listen to communicate, honesty,
Oh yes and that all important consultation.

We are in the business of offering advise we are also specialist in solving problems!
So we are in a very unique business.
We have a wonderful opportunity to use the many skills gained, utilise the tools at our disposal to do our job to apply our trade. We have the ability to turn a bad day into a good day from disaster into success powerful stuff.
We have to think of ourselves as being totally unique in the service we offer and the skill we have for we are all different we all react in different ways this does not mean we are not part of a team and as such should not share thoughts idea's we just all have something different to offer a different way of doing things.
The way we present our selves the appearance we project are all part of the personal image package that  is 'I' or 'You' this initial presentation is very important for it say this is me this is who i am!!!


So what are we selling what are we promoting:
This is easy we sell. Ourselves our skill and talent. Creativity. We are expert in the business of creating image a look experts in finding solutions to problems having answers to question.
Because we are all so very different and as such offer our trade in our own unique way none of us will suite everyone personality issues conflict will always exist so when it happens don't take it to heart it only becomes personal if you let it! [ so be the bigger person ] a little humility is ok this does not make you a door mat.
Something we as stylist also need to at least be aware of  as gain success get busy get a reputation is Ego just keep it in check a little ego is healthy but to much..............! not so good.
So to be a good communicator a problem solver what tools do we need? Knowledge is the key here!
Knowledge is power.
With so many different products on the market especially with hair colour both professional and home kits and now an onslaught of new Nano technology [ this new hip term} prior to this every thing was multifaceted, What ever the wording the lingo we have be on top of it we have to be up to date with new products new formulations. How and why they work. How do we do this ?
Education, training up dates, sharing, and by asking questions?? Thing some of us are not so good at!
Remember this the only stupid question is the one we don't ask!
Be informed have knowledge be a problem solver not a problem maker!
As always thoughts comments idea's please,
Mike

To this ends we are given the challenge some time to correct badly coloured hair this could be from either a poor professional job or a hope colour gone wrong.
Colour correction is a skill knowing how to re-balance a pigment mantle as a stylist only embark on this if you have the skill and knowledge to take on the responsibility. As a client work with choose some one you trust for this journey. Also get an estimate of both cost and timing for said correction. have a consultation be informed.
As a follow on from yesterdays posting after correction care:

Post Home Haircoloring Tips:                                                    
                                                          [Above pretty bad almost green hair! ]    
                                                                        before shot                 

Recommendations post-colour tips: 

It is recommended to wait 48 hours before washing your hair again after the initial color treatment is completed.  This gives new hues time to settle.
Always shampoo with lukewarm water.  Hot water will speed up color fading.
Use hair products specifically designed to protect coloured hair get professional advise.  Remember that some shampoo products designed to add volume will actually “blow up” the cuticle and thus cause hues to fade much faster.  Use products that are specifically labeled as “colour safe”
Shampoo less often.  Even permanent colors will fade faster with frequent washings.
Avoid the use of hot styling tools as much as possible.  Heat from either appliances or the sun will speed up color loss. When possible, air dry coloured strands.
When out in the sun or when swimming in a pool hats! Sun, surf, sand all the S things and pool chemicals may leach out precious tones or in some cases, cause color to fade or even worse, turn brassy or odd shades of green or orange.
Treat colored hair with care and respect invest in good quality products that work within your budget   and remember to deep condition on a regular basis to counteract dryness.
 Resist the urge to recolor again before at least 2 weeks has passed.  Remember, less is more.
 Avoid any other chemical processes for at least one month.  Keep in mind that perms or chemical straightening procedures may cause hair colors to be altered.
I would always recommend doing a skin test prior to any application it's always best to be safe.



                                                          {Above make over from above shot}
With some though sight and thinking it is possible to go from a muddy sludge to vibrant colour just takes time and patients:

In Closing:
If you plan on becoming a home hair colour jockey, consider starting a special journal or notebook so you can write down a record of each treatment.  Note the products that you used and the results.Over time you may discover little tricks that make your colouring techniques more streamlined or successful.
I hope this guide is helpful and saves some of the pit falls that can happen when entering the world of home hair colour and correction if required.
Mike B2MR

Tuesday, 2 August 2011

Long hair. The up/do variation on french pleat.

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR



Having wonderful Long hair can some time be a curse for us stylist's! What to do with it. How to style it so much maintenance  for the client washing conditioning and yet it can and indeed is the envy of others. Below some examples: 
The model with the Blonde hair has a length of hair that is down to her waist, you will see that know matter how long it can still be tamed allow us to be creative have fun.

So Embrace those wonderful long tresses they are the ultimate expression of femininity. Women with long hair have the possibility to create unique and fabulous hair styles with practice some imagination and patients of course you can create virtually any look from sophisticated evening looks to edgy funky looks no restrictions when it comes to styling. 
If you are unsure about how to start  maybe get a few basic tip tricks from a fellow stylist.  One who enjoys putting hair up and enjoys sharing. It really takes sitting in front of a mirror and playing once you have an understand of basic looks and styles you will definitely be creating inspirational looks that are unique and your own person design looking fabulous every time.


Long hair can be used  to create your own personal look identity it becomes part of you part of who you are as important as the right clothes and accessories and extension of both. Sexy romantic edgy soft or slightly harsh it all works it can look gentle soft feminine it can look intimidating give you that air of authority. Long hairstyles can be a tool of seduction and mystery. Due to the modern styling techniques  and the many tools and accessories  available to woman it's easy to find and create a style that works that you own!


To be able to emphasise natural beauty. Trying a variety of hairstyles is highly recommended because in this way we will be able to discover what styles flatter you the most  and work with both your dress sense and makeup. Allowing you to feel self confident and comfortable with your appearance.
A few basic hair styling skills can literally do miracles by allowing you to completely transform your style.
Our job as stylists is to be able to offer and advise share demonstrate possible looks. Practice the look to refine it so you can re create the style with a high level of finish one that with stands what ever the day might offer.
Wind. Heat. Dancing. Photographs. Public opinion. 


Loose hairstyles can also be the perfect compliment and alternative to a full on up do. For those who don’t have time on their side and prefer hairstyles that look polished but with a natural softness without a great deal of effort. But always consider the hair type will the look last the day? The Night?
Remember that what ever we as stylists create represents who we are what we do it's our advert! Get it wrong no second chances, for any future or potential work or clients.  
Loose wavy wavy hairstyles are a highly popular choice among women due to the wonders of modern styling tools and the simplicity of creating curls and volume that can with the right products last for hours  it's amazing how quickly one have have both volume and texture  to enhance the natural look of the hair in a matter of seconds.

A few loose curls can instantly revive a lifeless flat hairstyle by creating the impression of movement and volume highlighting both the texture and shape of  hairstyle better than by using hair styling products extensively.


Sleek straight hairstyles can provide an incredibly professional and yet modern look slightly seductive  with a hint of mystery. The particular look will help emphasize the facial features so you can really play with that eye makeup it has amazing face-framing abilities a scan a sleek pulled back up do.
With the help of a good  quality flat iron, a thermal protection spray and a hairspray anyone can create perfectly straight hair in a matter of minutes. Despite the apparent simplicity of this  hairstyle, it can still be the  hairstyle that is suitable for a wide variety of events.

   
If you like classic beauty that Breakfast at Tiffany look then updo hair styles would probably be the best choice for you. 
A simple classy chignon or a more complicated up do will give you the sophistication you look for. Top knots and ballerina buns are very vogue and so easy to do a tight pony tail tern wrap the hair around the the tail creating a bun for a polished look cover with fine net!
A total classic the beehive updo is another excellent choice especially for formal events when looking polished is an essential requirement. 
The key to this type of up do is being patient and taking your time. Back combing is helps us to create shape and structure but should always be smoothed out for a polished look pins grips should aways be hidden.wisp's flattened down with spray or light silicone. picture perfect! 


 For the more informal occasions you might choose to emphasize your playful naughty side by bending the rules going for a more up do messy hairstyles. Nowadays social acceptable it's an effortless look that is highly valued being endorsed by several celebrities who chose to make entrance on the red carpet wearing cute messy buns. 

Half up/down hairstyles are a perfect  meeting of glamor and edgy softness conformity it's an updo that affords the liberty of movement that a loose hairstyle generously offers. Suitable for all face shapes, half up/down hairstyles allow you to create a slightly Avantgarde look depending on the styling options you use.


Half/up down hairstyles are low maintenance and so practical because a little care and attention at the off set of styling, you won’t have to worry about the about needing to refresh you hair style and carrying a few essential hair products with you will ensure that your hair remains perfect for the entire day.


So take the plunge experiment have some fun create that look that is so you! be you the client or the stylist.


Mike B2MR                                        http://back2myroots.co.uk/

Love of hair colour and all things Natural.

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR


Our Love with Hair colour:

Be it organic based all natural or synthetic our love of hair Colour is never ending so we need to be well informed.
Here are some facts and useful basic information.

                                                               Primary Colours: Pure Colour.


These are pure Colours they cannot be made by mixing others Colours together.

We use colour. To describe people and emotions. e.g Green with envy, feeling  down feeling Blue, seeing Red, Red with anger.
Colour surrounds us constantly changing sky. Blooming flowers.
A world with out colour would be a very dull world indeed. We even use colour to describe how we feel warm cold excited tranquil.
We use hair colour. To describe people. We have all been guilty of Stereotyping people because by hair colour. Their look. 

                                                
The Big debate.  Gentlemen prefer Blondes! Blondes have more fun! or do they just get noticed quicker? or as suggested in some circle,  'Just get dirty quicker'!
The Fire associated with red heads hot head out spoken, head strong! or is it self confidence?
The Brunette. Safe Approachable. Natural, health. Inwardly content? maybe.
Throughout the ages we have explored different products some natural some chemical to dye and stain our hair be it short term or longer lasting.



Examples of these would be as follows:
True vegetable Dyes: The are derived from Herbs. Plants . Flowers. Vegetables and Bark.

As a note. These natural alternatives. Do not contain Alkaline be that Ammonia. MEA or products produced from grain Alcohol added to them.

They are true natural infusions or rinses they will enhance hair colour and add shine.
Advantages. Natural stain will not enter hair shaft may build up over time. Disadvantage will not cover Grey hair.
TIP Vegetable rinses and Infusions should not be used on Chemically treated hair!



Henna as a Colour
Red Henna comes from. The dried leaves of the Privet [lawsonia alba] grown in Asia and northern Africa.
Natural henna comes from the crushed root.
Natural henna is sometimes mixed with compounds of Metallic salts to produce a range of different colours. Hair coloured with metallic salt henna cannot and should not be coloured with any other products with formulation that have contained Ammonia. Hydrogen Peroxide.
if in any doubt  do a strand test. Strong dis coloration. An unpleasant smell no colour change. Uneven results down hair shaft. In some case applying permanent colour over the top of Metallic salts can cause a high heat reaction!

Henna can make appear shinny with more body and natural red hues depending on natural base level!
Henna Can over time build up on hair make it brittle it is not possible to chemically remove henna.
{Again before attempting any new colour strand test is essential!}



  
                                                            SEMI-PERMANENT COLOUR


                                                                 Rich dark Chocolate Brown!
Semi permanent Colour will make the same hair depth as the Natural base shade, good for changing tones gold,red, copper, Burgundy,
It works by depositing relatively small colour Molecules in the hair [Red molecule is the largest of all] these products generally have a Ph around 8 to 9 so they do open the cuticle a little, over time can build up and stain ! But in normal case they fade with shampooing as it's only a partial deposit.
Used a a good introduction with clients to colour. {remember results will vary given hair type, condition, clients colour history, the chemistry of the product, sadly some colour companies mislead us} 
  


Advantages:
Useful for enhancing hair colour or refreshing tint applications. adds shine and Gloss.ideal for bold fashion statement . Safe to use on Permed hair .
Disadvantage:
Wash out four to six weeks depending on frequency of washing. Result can be patchy uneven, cannot lighten hair. Over time may build up causing longer term staining.


Permanent Colour: 

Permanent hair colour affords us the ultimate service: allowing us the choices of infinite shades full Grey coverage. These dyes lighten the hairs natural melanin and tint at the same time. These Dyes will only become effective when mixed with hydrogen peroxide a topic i will cover down the road but at this juncture i will advise the level of peroxide one chooses can and will effect the colour you choose and final result on so many levels! normally comes in  strengths of 10. 3% 20.6% 30.9% 40.12%Volume  Hydrogen Peroxide comes in levels up to 100% nothing more than 40% is recommended for hair application.
[At this point i think things will get to technical if i out line how this process works contact me to discuss}

Problems to watch out for:
Colour fade  this is generally due to the cuticle being raised or damaged. allowing the colour wash out and fade.  This can be result of over processing porosity and Ph of the hair. 
Another huge mistake many make when doing permanent colour is a root-regrowth application and then combing through that same formulation after a period of time to the mid-lenghts and ends. this leads to muddy colour and over processing one should always colour balance.{ topic for future discussion}.

                                                               Rich reds are possible.


Hair resistant to colour:
Strong white or Grey or cause thick  hair the cuticle scales packed close together. In this instance we might need to pre-soften one school of thought is to run 10 vol 3%through the hair leave for 20 mins rinse cool water prior to applying colour.
I think That given that 10 Vol 3% alone could still give some lift and given that Grey hair still holds pigment I might suggest an alternative.
Having chosen you desired natural target level mix as a pre-soften solution 1 part N series{target level} with 1.5 or 1 1/2 times water leave for 20 mins. after this apply your target colour directly  over this  application. {proceed as normal root application colour balance.}

                                                
                                                        Natural Blonde looks with highlights

Advantages :
permanently changes hair colour,
Can lighten and tone at the same time,
100%Grey coverage,
wide choice colour, versatility,

Disadvantages:
requires Client commitment to regular process,
Colour fade especially if hair is or becomes over processed.                                                                         
Risk of skin allergy irritation : {always do skin test}
In my next blog I will talk about peroxide hair Lift, exposing different pigment in the hair, becoming part of the colour equation,


Many colours can be added to create texture and dimension,
Cool red, natural blonde, beige, we just need to consider the head of hair we are working on.
Finally in these days of hot straitening irons, craving for the sun, Chlorine build up we have to be super careful.

Condition protect cover up !