Showing posts with label choices. Show all posts
Showing posts with label choices. Show all posts

Wednesday, 29 February 2012

what is. The right choice of colour line for your salon?


Back2myroots: A place to share thoughts and grow idea's. B2MR
Choosing: The right colour line for your Salon: How  would you go about it?
What is the right product for you? How do you get all the answer to make an informed choice or decision! With so many products on the market so many manufacturers how on earth do you decide what company what product to chose? This is a big decision and a huge out lay for any salon so you have to get it right.
Do you make a list? If so where do you start?
* Cost.
*Quality.
*Education support and training.
*Ammonia free.
*Herbal or organic.
*Reputation.
*Staff interest or approval.
*best deal at the time.
All quite valid points and all have merit to some degree. With so many manufactures all trying for the same market as wholesale or as distributor the profit and returns are very good. The goal of any distributor is to get the colour line they represent in to your salon. Most distributors will carry more than one colour line. They work every closely with the manufactures that they represent. Many work on the premiss that if they can get their colour line into your salon then the wet line and retail sales should follow. Incentives are offered such as free or reduced price back bar or display stands.maybe even some stylist products. all sounds really good. If you have never negotiated these point now you can!
Back to the question: How do you chose?
The above list may help make your own. I do think that the staff have to be onboard with this and commit to any truing that may be required. Do not go for a new colour line without any training. Poor results will follow. Collaboration between management and staff is essential.
I would suggest have a few companies put on demonstration nights to test the product and ask any valid question.Do distributors and manufactures do this yes they do they have trained educators to do this and work with the distributor. If they don't then they are not worth bothering with! If you already use a colour line but are looking to change this is usually because the staff are having issues with the product. Or a brand new product has come onto the market and it's the next got to have thing! New is good but sometimes new comes with teething issues so sit back and wait awhile!
Fact: When staff want change due to product issues 9 times out of 10 it's not the product! True it's so easy to blame a tube of colour when things go wrong normally one of the following.
* Poor deposit.
* Fading.
* Reds that don't hold.
*N series that cannot control warmth.
* Lack of general warmth control.
*Poor quality high lift shades. [normally relating when trying to go from level 6 to 10!] Da!!!  not possible asking to lift to many levels not enough pigment control!
* Not enough choice of shades.
* Want Ammonia free.
Most sales rep's are trained to ask questions prior to starting to sell you a new colour line. They know how to draw the weaknesses of the colour line you use out. All colour line shave their strengths and their weaknesses. But if you and your staff are educated properly and use the  product correctly these issues can be dealt with. All of the list above have nothing to do with the product! Do you know what it's to do with? Poor consultation.Poor assessment. Bad formulation. In other word the stylist or technician. Laziness. Poor training. or just good old not caring.
Dose quality play a part? Yes supported  by re search and investment.
Of course it does. Do you get what you pay for! for the most part yes. Do they differ that much. Yes they do. Another list!
*Cream colour or oil based.
* Direct dye or none direct. partially or fully developed colour molecules.
* Organic or herbal. or other. Big issue this come shown to some technical understanding on chemistry.
*Ammonia Free. If yes then what drives the colour?  need to know.
* Full range Permanent semi demi.options to colour balance.
* Is the N series calibrated to deal with warmth exposed at any given level?
Once you have researched and got your list of questions together now you can invite the different company representatives  to come in do a demonstration and answer your questions. I do not promote individual colour lines or products If someone were to offer me a job as an educator then i might. Do i have favourites yes1 Would I share this with you if asked Yes! But only in one on one e-mail as response to a question.
The quality of products changes constantly new ones come and go. A few of the manufactures are committed to our industry and to supporting stylist and education for some it's just business in the salon or over the counter. My advise would be research look for the ones offering the best support education and training. If you do this you don;t have to change colour lines for any of the reason's above.Why because your using the best an dour staff have the very best training and support.
One last thing: 
Some colour lines may seem cheap larger tubes mixing ratios are very important is it mix 1 part colour to 1 1/2 developer or 2 parts colour 1 part developer  and the more pigment needed for a formulation normally indicates poorer quality of pigment in the tube. Salon waste is also very expensive measure colour weigh it keep good records eye balling it is wasteful and un professional.
Mike B2MR

Sunday, 13 March 2011

Hair colouring nightmare! Part2 The fix

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic's
 Links to original Topic/article:


http://mikeb2mr.wordpress.com/2011/03/10/hairdressing-nightmares-a-true-life-account/
http://back2myroots.tumblr.com/

The above are the links to the first part of this posting relaying a nightmare caused by poor choice and decision when embarking on lightening pre-coloured hair. The scenario demonstrates the pit falls of lifting hair that has a build up of colour. What can and does go wrong when not done correctly.
That being honesty with regard to expectation, realistic goals, and out come during the consultation process, and the need for a strand test.
So if you have not read the above posting please if you have time do.
So the fix!
So to review as you can see from either the first article or the first picture here, The attempt at lifting evenly from roots to ends was a failure. Leaving over lightened roots mid lengths with a real orange hue and very little lift on the ends. The desired effect was for toffee caramel low lights.
poor colour job before shot


The picture was provided by the client, but as you can see it really was a poor job.
When seeing this many thing came to mind apart from the poor job, also how the blonde just did not work with either skin tone or eye colour.
My suggestion was get rid of it ASAP!
Go back to being a rich dark healthy chocolate brown.
How would you do this, well it certainly would not require any more lift just a re build of the pigment base in the over lightened section then colour balance.

My suggestion would be to fill the over lightened section with a Demi formulation of either 7G or 7GC predominantly gold but with enough copper to balance with with warmth of the mid section. only apply to overly lifted area. leave for around 10 Minutes or[ follow your product directions ] remember you only need deposit formulation.
Once your chosen product has developed enough to deposit you can now think about final shade depth and Tone.
With the colour line i would use i would apply directly over top of first application. The same formulation being Dem deposit only zero lift. Here is where it gets interesting I will apply 4N directly over the top . Odd choice for some given as the N series is not always considered as a chosen colour.
But here is my thinking.
In this instance I am looking for a rich chocolate Brown. I have re introduced the missing pigment to the root area, but now i need to control that warmth to get the correct depth of colour.

look for location of orange section blue green section.

My 4N has a Blue green base
Check your colour wheel on your product ! green is made up of Blue+Yellow.
So given that we put on 7G the gold + Yellow + Red+yellow= orange
The 4N Blue + yellow +Blue= green
So the out come of this formulation is the Base of the 4N will control or neutralise the warmth creating a wonderful rich chocolate brown. 

As you can see from the colour wheel Orange sits across from Blue Green of the colour wheel so a perfect rich shade is possible.
Finally the after shot again provided by the client I did not carry out this colour fix but did advise her as what to get done and how.
Out come
The chosen formulation controlled all warmth and left her with a rich dark brown filling in all those unwanted shades and the nasty root lift.
Again this was all done with a Demi formulation for all those interested the process time is only 20 minutes so once applied  it's a very easy way to repair poor colour issues.
As a formulation it is none progressive so will not over deposit.
For any one interested Lanza Colour .

I hope this has been interesting for you as an exercise maybe it will encourage us all to think before we act.

Always have that consultation. Trust the colour wheel. Remember it's all about the service we offer our skill and knowledge, It's these things that enables us to keep our clients.

THANK YOU TO THE CLIENT. For allowing me to share and recount this experience.
Mike B2MR